Interior wall insulation question?

[Spaggs]

What type/R-value of insulation should I use in the wall between the non-heated/air conditioned part of my garage and the heated/air conditioned area of my work shop?

I live in North Georgia.

I'm using 2" x 6" and foam for the walls that are against the outside.

Thanks in advance.

Spaggs

 

[ripsnortMN]

R19 will fit nicely in there.

 

[Spaggs]

R 19 it is. Should I use blown in insulation?

Spaggs

 

[jkeyser14]

For walls it will be easier to use a paper backed fiberglass. Just cut to length and staple the paper face to the studs. Otherwise you need an opening at the top of the wall between every stud (after putting up drywall) in order to blow the foam in.

 

[Bermudacat]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34614

Scroll to the bottom

1" holes every 16" are real easy to mud over when you tape and texture the rest.

 

[Identaltech]

blown in insulation settles in the wall so you would have no insulation at the top.
you still have to use a vapor barrier on the warm side.
use the batts

 

[Bermudacat]

blown in insulation settles in the wall so you would have no insulation at the top.
you still have to use a vapor barrier on the warm side.
use the batts

People assume that celluose settles in the walls because it settles when blown in loose in attics. I can assure you that my walls didn't settle. Quite the opposite; celluose is compressed in the walls and was slowly migrating out of the holes it was blown in through for several weeks after I installed it.

 

[Identaltech]

as I undrstand when you compress insulation you lower the R value.
seen lots of houses around here built in the 50's where they blew in insulation,
and on cold mornings you can see where the studs are in the walls and a blank space at the fire block and at the top when looking at the frost on the wall.
the blank spaces are about 1 foot wide.
because you compressed it hopefully you wont get that.

 

[Bermudacat]

as I undrstand when you compress insulation you lower the R value.
seen lots of houses around here built in the 50's where they blew in insulation,
and on cold mornings you can see where the studs are in the walls and a blank space at the fire block and at the top when looking at the frost on the wall.
the blank spaces are about 1 foot wide.
because you compressed it hopefully you wont get that.

I cannot comment on what type of insulation they used or their methods, I was reffering to my late '90's experience.

Compressing fiberglass insulation will lower the actual R value to the same thickness of uncompressed fiberglass, ie, nothing is gained by overstuffing fiberglass.

The R-factor of my cellulose is equivalent to the dimension of the studs in the wall, no more, no less.

 

[Kevin54]

as I undrstand when you compress insulation you lower the R value.
seen lots of houses around here built in the 50's where they blew in insulation,
and on cold mornings you can see where the studs are in the walls and a blank space at the fire block and at the top when looking at the frost on the wall.
the blank spaces are about 1 foot wide.
because you compressed it hopefully you wont get that.

Back at that time the "blow in insulation" was more than likely rock wool. And it did have a tendency to settle year after year. We replaced windows in my BIL's house years ago and when we opened the walls up, the cavitys were only half full as it had settled so much.

 

[buening]

Regarding a vapor barrier, see this article. This brand of cellulose is what I purchased at Lowes.

 

[redsky49]

Snake oil!

Regarding a vapor barrier, see this article. This brand of cellulose is what I purchased at Lowes.

While there is plenty of debate regarding both sides of this issue, the use of Manufacturer's biased advertising in support of one's position is totally worthless for the consumer.

The referenced (hot-linked) statement by Regal again refers to the organization ASHACE (which appears to exist only in Regal's mind. Do a Google search for yourself) for supposed justification of their opinions. Rather than take as authority someone who has a vested interest in the matter, instead examine what established Professional Organizations such ASHRAE (American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air-Conditioning Engineers) have to say in the matter. ASHRAE sponsors research committees in multiple areas of interest every year, and the information they gather can be used with confidence due to the scientific, rather than anecdotal, basis of their investigations. This is the best proven information and is used in the formulation of Building Codes as well as industry standards of quality.

There are a lot of snake oil salesmen out there and I think that they will become even more prevalent as energy costs continue to increase. Always be cautious and consider the source for all manufacturer's claims. The use of bogus organizations, with names similar to established organizations, should be the tip-off that what information is presented is not likely to fair and impartial, or even truthful.

Remember, caveat emptor, especially in these times.

As always, offered only as opinion

 

[jerry j]

REDSKY49...........

You hit the nail on the head.... I know Regal Very Well.. They have been around for years, but............. a lot of their claims are BOGUS ! !
As a 30 year insulation contractor, I used their material ONCE and only ONCE......... Like anything else, there are good and bad mfgrs., and there are also more bad contractors, than there are good..... A lot of them just blow smoke.......

Guyes, believe what you want, but properly installed BLOWN IN INSULATION will not, repeat, will not settle.. If you open a wall and find no insulation at the top, that means only one thing, not enough was put in, at the time of insulating.. Yes COMPACTED INSULATION does lose some R-Value, but it is minimal, unless your stacking "stuff" on top of it in the attic....
Example of wall..... I built an 8x8' wall section, with drywall on one side and plexi-glass on the other... Drilled the drywall everyway you could think of Hi holes, low holes, 1 row chest high, big and small holes.. Then we tapped the "wall" section several times.... The installation "by the book" did not, repeat did not settle.........

 

[nonhog]

I'm not trying to argue any points made here,but if Regal says no vapor barrier, how is that in there best interest if they are wrong ?
Are they not setting themselves up. I'm not following the logic.

BTW I am as confused as ever re: how I want to insulate my shop.

 

[jerry j]

The vapor barrier question seems to always pop up...

First thing is, I agree, if you have a "Tremendous" amount of humidity, then a vapor barrier would be called for... Your not insulating a car wash........
Most heat rises, so again, if the humidity level is out of sight, then add a vapor barrier. A sign of too much humidity is windows with moisure built up on the living area side.. Again, in a shop, unless you are washing cars daily, or have some other source of major humidity, Don't Worry About It ! !, especially in the walls.........