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Internet to Outbuildings Using Wireless

MTW

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SE Michigan
I wanted to make a post regarding sharing internet access with wireless technology. I want to state that I’m no microwave network expert, but I do have some experience in setting up many wireless links from building to building and house to house. I’m self-taught and learned most things through study and first hand experimentation with many devices as the budget allows.

In my early days I started with consumer grade hardware and modifications. Such as different antennas and homemade reflectors coupled to USB radios or wireless routers. Aftermarket firmware on routers such as DD-WRT, and even consumer grade repeaters. All of this was a fun and valuable learning experience but ultimately proved to be insufficient for my needs for a robust and reliable connections under all conditions of use.

I finally stumbled across some WISP (wireless internet service provider) gear that fills the bill, and at an affordable price. These radios are weatherproof and meant to be externally mounted and require 1 ethernet cable for power and communications. There are now many brands and models to choose from, as well as frequency 2.4 or 5 GHz, compatibility B,G,N,AC,MIMO (multiple input multiple output). The 2 brands I have used are EnGenius and Ubiquiti. I started with EnGenius equipment but the performance was lacking for my needs, I tried some Ubiquiti units and have never looked back, as they have satisfied all of my needs.
IMG_1068.jpgIMG_1070.jpgIMG_1072.jpgIMG_1079.jpgIMG_1089.jpgIMG_1091.jpg

A radio pair installed outdoors with a self-contained panel antenna is usually the most cost efficient and reliable approach in most situations. With 2 of these you can reliably connect from across the street to a mile down the road, if you have a clear line of sight. With a partial line of sight (trees) expect less, with buildings in the path poor, with metal obstructions none. WiFi is microwave and is attenuated by solid objects, foliage, metal and water (fog, rain, snow). In my experience one of these radios will connect across the street to a normal home router buried in the other house with good speed and throughput. Two of these properly mounted and configured will make rock solid connection in all weather conditions, even if there is a lot of radio congestion in the vicinity.

My preferred setup to extend internet coverage would go something like this. Look over the site from each end. Can you find a place to mount the units so that they can see each other clearly, height above the ground is very important, especially the farther you go. Higher is better to avoid obstructions and the earth clipping the Fresnel zone. The Fresnel zone is a cone shaped area with the pointed end at the radio source and the largest end halfway between the radios. If this large end circle is obstructed by the ground signal will be lost. If you can see the other radio location clearly, it should work well.

Figure out how you are going to mount, cable and power them for a permanent installation. The units are designed to be mast mounted, and many types of mounts are available, from window suction cup, metal standoff brackets, plastic standoff swivel brackets, and tripods. Sometimes I fabricate my own for unusual or aesthetic consideration.
Custom%20wall%20mount.jpg
Custom%20wall%20mount2.jpg

mast%20w%20rotor.jpg

mast%20w%20rotor2.jpg

window%20sill.jpg

roof%20testing.jpg


The units do require some setup programming to get them working, as they come with many features and modes of operation. I was familiar with normal router configurations when I started, so I worked my way through it. The way they need to be configured depends on your physical layout and what mode they need to be in to suit your purposes.

The basic modes are Access Point, Client, Bridge, and Wireless Distribution System WDS.
AP mode is equivalent to your existing wireless router, it provides multiple wireless device connections, and connects them back to a single uplink port (internet or other network).
Client mode is equivalent to your laptop, tablet or phone it receives a connection from an access point.
Bridge mode is equivalent to a wired extension cable, it passes data back and forth but provides for no other device connections.
WDS mode is a combination of bridge and access point, the units talk to each other as well as accept connections from other WDS units and clients.

For most internet extension type setups you would want the radio at the internet source end to be configured as an access point, and the radio at the remote end in client mode. With this type setup other devices may also connect to the access point, such as a phone or tablet, in the space between the radios, or another radio at a different outbuilding. The beam spread is about 60° with the horizon and 30° on the vertical, so at a distance it can cover a pretty good area. If you want the access point signal to be compatible with the maximum variety of devices it should be at 2.4 GHz and compatible with type G, N. There are other settings and frequencies (5GHz) that can increase performance and throughput but won’t be compatible with other devices you may want to connect. If all you need is the single connection, the bridge mode and 5 GHz would be a better choice. 2.4 GHz is pretty crowded in most places, so 5 GHz can be less crowded and better reception, however not compatible with most consumer devices.

At the client end (outbuilding) I usually build a little “repeater board” with the necessary rudiments, to keep the install at the site to a bare minimum. I make a backboard to install a normal wireless router (whatever is at hand) and an outlet to power both the indoor and outdoor radios from. From the outlet I attach a pre-molded 120V chord to reach an existing outlet in the building. The secondary router provides for wired and wireless connections in the remote building. The board also contains the DC power injector for the outside radio. Having the power injector and the router next to each other simplifies the ethernet connection, just a short jumper required. Having everything mounted to the board makes mounting at the site easy, just screw to the wall or trusses as required, and plug it in. Run a ethernet cable to the outdoor mounted radio and call it done.
repeater1.jpg

repeater2.jpg


If you know nothing about networking and its settings, like configuring a router, you will need some assistance from someone who does, or a crash course on your part to get it configured correctly. You must get the radios set up and communicating correctly before you ever try to install them in their final location.

I have installed many systems like this over several years and they are all working beautifully. I use one myself for my own connection. The link is about ¼ mile or 1320’ in an industrial environment with 2) 2.4Ghz units MIMO. It achieves throughput of 240 to 300 Mbps on an encrypted connection, many times faster than my humble DSL connection. It has a repeater board at each end to supply users with wired and wireless connections. Mounting heights are 20’ one side and 30’ on the other. There is some industrial ductwork piping in the Fresnel zone between the radio units, but works well when the center beam area is clear. It’s been running for 2 years without the need for any service or frequent reboots. I can access all 4 radios across the network for checking their status and the DSL modem at the front end. Normally the only time it goes down is from the DSL modem at the front end choking on high data flows. The wireless links still function correctly and allow remote reset of the hung DSL modem.

Many other services can be run over this wireless ethernet connection. VOIP or skype calls. IP security cameras. Cell phone providers can provide an adapter to place your cell calls over the internet for places with no or poor signals. Control signals for far flung equipment and sensors. Streaming of audio and video files from your network. Did I mention surfing the net, from multiple devices and locations?
 
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Vicious Customs

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Jan 3, 2012
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Any chance you can share the specific ubiquity equipment you're working with? I took a brief look at their site and their long-range setup seemed short (600'). I'll be looking at a 1/4 mile bridge, so maybe 2 will get me close, but that seems like I'll be cutting it close. I've got some foliage in the way, too, so that will impact that length.

Thanks!
 

600SL

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Apr 26, 2012
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Connecticut
Good stuff

I'm not sure I will need any of this. I was very surprised to find my wireless hooked up inside my metal building about 150' from the router. Of course I only tried it once and the garage doors were both open.

But I may be doing something like this or digging a trench.
 

Falcon67

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Jun 11, 2009
Messages
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Location
Merkel, TX
Any chance you can share the specific ubiquity equipment you're working with? I took a brief look at their site and their long-range setup seemed short (600'). I'll be looking at a 1/4 mile bridge, so maybe 2 will get me close, but that seems like I'll be cutting it close. I've got some foliage in the way, too, so that will impact that length.

Thanks!

Review the M5 units. These are used on remote west Texas cattle ranges shooting for miles. Cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EHSV4W/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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jeffmoss26

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I did an Engenius install a few years ago for a customer to connect 2 buildings across the street from each other. I can't remember the part numbers off hand, but it all worked pretty nicely.
 
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MTW

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SE Michigan
Ok, here is some of the details on the equipment that I'm familiar with.

Let me clarify that I started in this several years ago, and as you know, electronics and computers are still expanding at a rapid pace. Some of the models that I started with, are no longer in production and are considered legacy equipment. That doesn't mean there not available any longer, check your favorite vendor for old stock.

I will steer you the manufacturers site for relevant info, they don't sell the items directly, you must use a distributor. I encourage you to do some homework of your own. This is not child's play to setup and configure these properly. There are forums for these products and you can learn much there, as you do here on the GarageJournal.

Let's start where I did, and take it from there. My first order consisted of 2 Engenoius EOC-2610 and 2 UBiQUiTi NanoStation2 units. At first I was looking to extend coverage in a residential area from an existing home router. Using just 1 outdoor radio per installation, and the existing home router. Let me stop and tell you that this is usually not the way to go for a robust connection. It works for short distances 300-500' but neighborhoods can be a very noisy place when it comes to WiFi. Picture that every house has at least 1 router (sometimes with 2 networks, guest), and many devices, puters, tablets, phones, TV, Microwave all working at 2.4 GHz. Combine that with the fact that there are only 11 channels, and only 3 of them (1,6,11) are far enough away from each other, frequency wise to avoid interference. That makes this a dicey proposition for most city dwellers, for suburbanites and rural dwellers this may work fine to excellent.

All 4 of the first batch were used in the above application, with my repeater board as described earlier. 3 are working fine to this day (5 yrs) in city applications. 1 is dead. The first one was the window perched one, as shown above. Just sitting in a 2nd floor window, shooting 4 houses down the block.
One in a sparse hood shooting about 1200' across the road, another for 2 houses on a farm type setting, last one at a commercial setting connecting 2 block buildings.

I found that the EnGenius units were more problematic than the UBiQUiti ones. The receiver section seemed less sensitive (less gain) and the web interface configuration was not as good, clunky and not as many features.
One of the EnGenius units was troublesome from the start, never worked reliably, until it croaked. Replaced with a Nanostation 2 and working flawlessly. Remember that these were early units, back at that time we were switching from B to G type equipment. Were now way beyond that, currently on N but ready to switch to A/C.

Here's some links to the early units, these are at end of life.
http://www.engeniustech.com/component/content/article/158-business/287-80211g-outdoor-high-power-600mw-bridge-access-point-with-dual-antennas
http://www.ubnt.com/nanostation

I'm not trying to slam EnGenius here, I've used other of their products and found them to be good to excellent. Just real world experience, and much time has gone by since then. I chose that model (EOC-2610) because it had more RAM memory and better processor than the NanoStation 2.

Since then I have done many different installations, with newer models and different end use applications. I learned that having 2 units for the link can make it rock steady but twice the installation cost and work. The repeater board, with 1 outdoor radio still works for me in a lot of close <500' applications in residential settings.

In regards to metal skinned or sided buildings, I found that the coverage will poor to nonexistent with no openings. However reflected waves can be tricky. Any window or opening will let some waves through, and once they get in, they tend to bounce everywhere reflected off of the metal. I recently did a job providing wireless access to the inside a industrial plant that had 5 connected buildings constructed of metal. It only took 3 radios to bathe the entire facility in excellent WiFi coverage. Even a building connected by a 180° metal tunnel had coverage throughout without a radio being installed. On another commercial application with a metal building and a municipal radio tower nearby, I had other issues. I could not connect to a router right across the street, because of waves from the tower reflecting off of the roof skin, even though the tower was to the back of the radio. Once I realized this, I lowered the radio below the roof-line to hide from the towers reflected waves and it worked like the whip.

Let it be said again that these radios can come in different frequency's, each with advantages and disadvantages. 2.4GHz is the normal WiFi, most congested and most cross compatible with other devices. 5GHz is less congested and compatible with newer devices, usually called dual band (2.4/5 GHz). Then there is 900MHz more specialized for long haul but competes with different devices (cordless phones, cell phones). For a 1 radio setup to connect to an existing router, you will need to match whatever frequency and method it is using to communicate. With 2 radios for a dedicated link 5GHz or 900MHz would probably be a better choice.

For residential use I like the old Nanostation 2 (link above), it's most compatible with old G type residential routers and easy to configure. I can usually train the client on how to check and reconfigure it with a few sessions if necessary. For current equipment I like the NanoStation M2 or M5 depending on the job at hand.
http://www.ubnt.com/airmax#nanostationm
These have a lot more throughput (up to 300Mbps) when configured for that, than the old units, but can be dummed down to be backward compatible with the G models if desired. Here is EnGenius latest comparable unit.

2.4GHz http://www.engeniustech.com/business-networking/outdoor-access-points-client-bridges/9339-enh202-
5GHz http://www.engeniustech.com/business-networking/outdoor-access-points-client-bridges/9340-enh500-

Some models come with a 2nd ethernet port, for the connection of an IP/POE (power over ethernet) camera or other device. Most have a port for an external antenna, such as a big dish (highly directional) shown in my earlier post, or an omnidirectional (all directions). This antenna port is software selectable. I like these brick units with the internal antenna, there small and compact, unobtrusive, low wind load, have plenty of gain for most applications, and a good wide field of view. This makes it easier, more forgiving, and less costly to get into service. Highly directional antennas like the dish shown above can produce great gain and distance, but is tricky to get it aimed correctly, requires a very sturdy mast and requires some diligence to get it right.
 
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MTW

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SE Michigan
Overflow continued.

Take a look at some of the more professional gear if you have distance or foliage issues. I have experimented with these AirGrid M units with good success, but no permanent installs. Again its a bit trickier to commission, now you have polarity orientation of the antenna as well as aiming. And your mast needs to be rock steady, with the added wind load.
http://www.ubnt.com/airmax#airgrid

Here's a page with the UBiQUiTi Air Max series of radios of many types. The Bullet type for mounting on mast with an antenna. The Rocket for mast mounting with MIMO antenna's. The tiny PicoStation this little guy works well for going a few houses away when placed in the window or as a great little wireless access point.
http://www.ubnt.com/airmax#airMaxHardware
A word of advise with the brick type units, get the full size unit, instead of the smaller one called the NanoStation M2 loco. It's the same electrically but with a smaller antenna, not worth the savings in my opinion, unless your pretty close.

For EnGenius Full line offering of Outdoor access points/bridges look here.
http://www.engeniustech.com/business/Directory/business-networking/outdoor-access-points-client-bridges_c89_m331/

For pricing and availability use the vendor of your choice, some of you will require assistance with selection and hand-holding with the setup and configuration. It may be best to look for someone more experienced with configuration unless your the type who enjoys the challenge of something new. Or a vendor who is willing to hold your hand. I buy from WISP suppliers through a business account. Have a look at the links below.

http://www.microcom.us/wireless-lan--access-point---client-bridge--outdoor.html
http://www.l-com.com/wireless-access-points-adapters?cmp=LM1
http://www.ispsupplies.com/categories/CPE-AP-Bridge/
http://www.gnswireless.com/wireless_bridge_kits.htm
http://www.data-alliance.net/servlet/-strse-Ubiquiti-Products/Categories
http://store.wisp-router.com/
http://www.wirelessnetworkproducts.com/wispequipment.aspx

Here's some screenshots of the configuration pages of a Nanostation M2 being used at 1/4 mile. And take note on the main page that it's been up for 85 days, since the last power outage. Normally runs at not less than 240Mbs in any weather condition, clear line of sight.

%5BNanoStation%20M2%5D%20-%20Main.jpg

%5BNanoStation%20M2%5D%20-%20Wireless.jpg

%5BNanoStation%20M2%5D%20-%20Network%20Setup1.jpg

%5BNanoStation%20M2%5D%20-%20Network%20Setup2.jpg

%5BNanoStation%20M2%5D%20-%20Advanced.jpg

%5BNanoStation%20M2%5D%20-%20Services.jpg

%5BNanoStation%20M2%5D%20-%20System.jpg


That should be enough to chew on for now.
 
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ishiboo

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Oct 27, 2010
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Oshkosh, WI
I have a project coming up, if it comes to fruition I'll post the build on the forum.

I am immediately between Time Warner and Charter service areas... no service where I live. I have line-of-sight .5 miles to power poles which have Charter. My plan is to get a dedicated power connection and mount a cable modem and airMAX on rented pole space, beamed over to my property.

Sounds silly but I work from home via the Internet and spend 99% of my time on it, so having absolute **** DSL is pretty bad.
 
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MTW

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SE Michigan
Search the web for WISP (wireless internet service provide) in your area, there may be some. It's getting more common in rural areas. They would use the same type equipment to a tower located in town.

Rented pole space, with power and internet sounds like a problem to me. In my neck of the woods that wouldn't be possible on a utility pole, unless you have your own pole and property rights. That's what WISP's do acquire tower space and rent it out.
 

compaddict

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Auburn, CA USA
I had issues with Nanostations that were too close.. They could not handle the high signal and the noise floor was too high. Switched to the new Nanobeams and problem went away. Just FYI.
 
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MTW

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It's configurable in the setup pages to turn the power level down. If the input to the receiver is still too high, at low power setting, the units can be misaligned to reduce signal further.

Please share your setup with me and others so that they may glean something from you too.
 

compaddict

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Been there, done that, got the sticker and the Tshirt.
It's configurable in the setup pages to turn the power level down. If the input to the receiver is still too high, at low power setting, the units can be misaligned to reduce signal further.

Please share your setup with me and others so that they may glean something from you too.
 
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Ratmonkey

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Ok Im sold on the Loco M5's. All over the internet people have great things to say.

Few questions though:

1) The reason to use the 5Ghz band is because it is less crowded (For now) Is this correct?

2) The Difference between the Nanostation M5 and the Nanostation Loco M5 is the Loco is a smaller unit with less rage/power, and therefore cheaper?

3) I have a cheapo Wifi Router in the house and its 2.4Ghz. Would I need to replace this router with a 5Ghz unit? Or will a Dual Band router work? Will I also need to use the same type of router on the other end (shop side 500+ feet away)

4) If a dual band router is used, can a 2.4Ghz wireless device be used on the network? Or will it be restricted to 5Ghz Devices only? Can these routers be used on the 5Ghz and 2.4Ghz bands simultaneously?

5) Can some of you guys recommend some good routers to use with this system?
 

ishiboo

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Search the web for WISP (wireless internet service provide) in your area, there may be some. It's getting more common in rural areas. They would use the same type equipment to a tower located in town.

Rented pole space, with power and internet sounds like a problem to me. In my neck of the woods that wouldn't be possible on a utility pole, unless you have your own pole and property rights. That's what WISP's do acquire tower space and rent it out.

Why isn't it possible? In most states if not all, the utilities are obligated to lease pole space. That's why you don't see a different pole for every utility/service provider.

Our only WISP did a site test and it was no faster at the distance/etc than the ****** DSL.
 
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MTW

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Ok Im sold on the Loco M5's. All over the internet people have great things to say.

Few questions though:

1) The reason to use the 5Ghz band is because it is less crowded (For now) Is this correct? Yes

2) The Difference between the Nanostation M5 and the Nanostation Loco M5 is the Loco is a smaller unit with less rage/power, and therefore cheaper? Same power/ less antenna gain

3) I have a cheapo Wifi Router in the house and its 2.4Ghz. Would I need to replace this router with a 5Ghz unit? Or will a Dual Band router work? Will I also need to use the same type of router on the other end (shop side 500+ feet away) no changes to existing inside equip other than a wired port for internet access for radio

4) If a dual band router is used, can a 2.4Ghz wireless device be used on the network? Or will it be restricted to 5Ghz Devices only? Can these routers be used on the 5Ghz and 2.4Ghz bands simultaneously? Usually will work (dual band G,N, 2.4 5GHz) but may slow all connections to slowest device speed, depends on router make model, most are backward compatible with G at 2.4 GHz and operate at both frequency's

5) Can some of you guys recommend some good routers to use with this system?
You probably don't really need 5GHz inside the outbuilding or house, just for the remote link. I'd tell you use what you have and replace it when it no longer meets your needs or lets out some smoke. For my repeater boards I like these units, dirt cheap, 2.4GHz, N rated (300Mbs), and have used over a dozen with no complaints or comebacks.

http://www.microcenter.com/product/381840/W368R_Wireless-N_Broadband_Router
 
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MTW

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Why isn't it possible? In most states if not all, the utilities are obligated to lease pole space. That's why you don't see a different pole for every utility/service provider.This is true they lease space to other utilities, not home-brewers like me. There are lots of rules and liabilities, not to mention climbing space rules for utility poles. I doubt you would afford the cost even if they allowed it

Our only WISP did a site test and it was no faster at the distance/etc than the ****** DSL.
What kind of speed and signal strength did you get from them? If they upgraded equipment for you, maybe you could do better that way.
 

Falcon67

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Merkel, TX
Ok Im sold on the Loco M5's. All over the internet people have great things to say.

Few questions though:

1) The reason to use the 5Ghz band is because it is less crowded (For now) Is this correct?

2) The Difference between the Nanostation M5 and the Nanostation Loco M5 is the Loco is a smaller unit with less rage/power, and therefore cheaper?

3) I have a cheapo Wifi Router in the house and its 2.4Ghz. Would I need to replace this router with a 5Ghz unit? Or will a Dual Band router work? Will I also need to use the same type of router on the other end (shop side 500+ feet away)

4) If a dual band router is used, can a 2.4Ghz wireless device be used on the network? Or will it be restricted to 5Ghz Devices only? Can these routers be used on the 5Ghz and 2.4Ghz bands simultaneously?

5) Can some of you guys recommend some good routers to use with this system?

1) - Yes, everything and the kitchen sink is on 2.4g
2) - Unsure, would have to read the specs. Our long throw with a loco is .7 miles
Device Name: MB Near End
Network Mode: Bridge
Wireless Mode: Access Point WDS
Hidden SSID xxxx
Security: WPA2
Version: v5.3.3
Uptime: 60 days 16:09:54
Date: 2011-09-25 03:51:51

Channel/Frequency: 157 / 5785 MHz
Channel Width: 40 MHz (Upper)
ACK/Distance: 34 / 0.7 miles (1.1 km)
TX/RX Chains: 2X2

WLAN MAC: ***
LAN MAC: xxxx
LAN1/LAN2: 100Mbps-Half / Unplugged


3) you just need a wired port off a router to the bridge. Wireless doesn't figure into the bridge connections. It's wired on both ends because a bridge acts like an extension cord for an ethernet cable. If you used a wireless router on the far end, you'd plug the interface of the M5 into the "uplink" or "internet" port of the router. The near end would get a cable from any of the spare wired ports on your exiting router.

4) "Dual band" means the access point has two radios in it. The radios will simultaneously support equipment on both bands. That's why you buy a dual band unit. They sell 2.4/5 GHz units with a single radio - those will dumb down to the worst device connection on the radio.

5) All the brand names should work well - Cisco/Linksys, D-Link, etc. Have used both Linksys and D-Link. The E3000 was an upgrade here from the single band D-Link. On the flip side LOL, I run some Cisco high end wireless at work and we hate it - moving to another vendor.
 
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Cjk

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Wisconsin
Subscribed! Thank you to the experts sharing your expertise.
I have been trying to figure out how to get wifi down to the bonfire area for streaming music etc 100 yards from the house. Ran power to it last year and hope to get some wifi this year.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
Good info in this thread!

I actually work for a WISP as a wireless tech and electrician. I didnt read every post in this thread but I will in the future when I have more time. Hit me up if u have any questions. I will be happy to answer them.

We use Ubiquiti, MikroTik and now cambium radios for all of our customers equipment. We mainly use either Nanobridges or Rocket M5s when using Ubiquiti equipment or MikroTiks with flat panel antennas or Ubiquiti RocketDish M2s. We only use NanoStations for P2Ps between buildings as theyre low power.

For links between towers we use the above radios as well as high powered Trango and DragonWave microwave radios. We use to use engenous stuff but its not as good as the current stuff we use.

If trees are in the LOS then 2.4ghz is gonna be better than 5ghz.
 

Garage Junkie

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Cleveland, OH
I'm sorry to bring up this incredibly old thread, but I saved it just for this situation. I installed the ubiquiti units based off of this and have never had to touch them since. Seven yrs running and no complaints. Now I want to help a friend set up the same and I need to know how to configure the two units to act as a bridge. I think the info was part of this thread in one of MTW's posts as screenshots that are no longer linked. MTW are you still out there, or can anyone else tell me how to set these up as a bridge?
 

wyliesdiesels

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I'm sorry to bring up this incredibly old thread, but I saved it just for this situation. I installed the ubiquiti units based off of this and have never had to touch them since. Seven yrs running and no complaints. Now I want to help a friend set up the same and I need to know how to configure the two units to act as a bridge. I think the info was part of this thread in one of MTW's posts as screenshots that are no longer linked. MTW are you still out there, or can anyone else tell me how to set these up as a bridge?

Its pretty easy. Log into one of the radios, switch the mode to access point, then make up an SSID and password. Its just like setting up wireless on an access point for Wifi. Then set a static IP on the network tab. Make sure to leave this radio plugged in.

once those are set, log into the other radio, select the access point in the popup list that comes up when you select list, then input the password. Also, set a static IP address.

should be set.
 

Dodge

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Illinois
Its pretty easy. Log into one of the radios, switch the mode to access point, then make up an SSID and password. Its just like setting up wireless on an access point for Wifi. Then set a static IP on the network tab. Make sure to leave this radio plugged in.

once those are set, log into the other radio, select the access point in the popup list that comes up when you select list, then input the password. Also, set a static IP address.

should be set.

I am doing a similar set-up, if not the same. You don't have to do anything with the IP address? Just do the couple things you mentioned? By radio, you are referring to the outside antenna? Thanks
 

wyliesdiesels

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
19,983
Location
Modesto, CA
I am doing a similar set-up, if not the same. You don't have to do anything with the IP address? Just do the couple things you mentioned? By radio, you are referring to the outside antenna? Thanks

i dont understand your question

i did mention setting static IPs, which is not required but highly recommended so you can easily get to the radio in the future if you need to log into it
 

Denwood

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Joined
Sep 22, 2014
Messages
4,180
Location
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
Thanks Wylie, I'll try to figure out how I get back into mine and confirm I can do this before I go over to the other guys place.

Ubiquiti has a finder tool that works as a chrome extension. Use that or a free IP scanner to find the IP address of your bridge devices if you did not set to static IPs. In practice these devices are usually set to static IPs and documented for easier troubleshooting.
 

Garage Junkie

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2010
Messages
170
Location
Cleveland, OH
Thanks Denwood, I had bookmarked the login page, so it was easy to find my way back in to the configurator. I figured I would just write down all the key settings and then use them on the other guys setup. While I was in there, I realized that I never changed the admin name and password. Just as I was doing that, a certain 5 yr old jumped on me and I had no idea what password had just been saved, but it was too late, the window closed too. So that led into a long downward spiral of basically doing a factory reset and re-configuring both units from scratch. It doesn't actually take that long to do, it just takes a while for me to admit I needed to do it... So now that I've gone through the whole process the hard way, I know what I'm doing and the next ones will be easy. There are some good videos on YouTube showing how to do this step by step.

Thanks all
 
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