IR T30 Compressor Valve Problem

[OverkillYJ]

I have a 3 cylinder 2stage T30 Ingersoll Rand 10HP Compressor. It was not building pressure past 70psi, but would not shut off when it hit 70 either, just kept running. I figured it was the 2nd stage valve, and rebuilt it yesterday. It was pretty much seized in place, but is now moving freely. The other low pressure cylinders I took a look at quickly, and saw the brass caps that depress the spring to open the valves were moving freely and looked extremely clean, so I skipped those and figured I would fired it up.

Now when its turned on the 2nd cylinder in stage 1 is sucking air in the intake for a few rpms, then randomly dumping air back out of the intake. Makes an interesting sound when that happens. The compressor is not burning up or getting too hot. The intercooler release valve between the 1st and 2nd stage is also starting to release pressure. My father in law plumbed the tank to the pressure control switch instead of the line coming off the heads like it was when we got it. I cannot remember what the line is that runs along the heads, but that is what was run to the pressure switch. So he plugged that when he plumbed the tank to the switch. If that line is plugged, the intake problem happens. If that line is open, then the Intercooller pressure release blows.

I have a feeling it is something simple like a valve sticking. I just dont want to go exploring before seeing if anyone here has seen this issue before. The gaskets kits for the heads arent cheap, so I do not want to tear apart anything I do not need to looking for problems. Also, this compressor is in a really bad spot to work on for an extended period of time, and is on a 220 gallon tank. After helping him out for hours yesterday, I am hoping I can get some fresh ideas here before I go take another shot at it. Thanks for the help

 

[OverkillYJ]

UPDATE: I figured out what it is I need. The little spring in the valve shaped like a washer broke. Its the larger of the two on the piston side of the valve. I know it is a spring, I just do not know the name of that type of spring. If anyone knows, can you please suggest a reseller I can contact to buy only this part along with the name of that part? I do not want to be forced into buying a kit with parts I do not need. Its the one that sits against the precision washer they have in there that acts like a reed valve. Apparently that damn spring washer that holds it in place broke and it is making the 2nd stage valve stick. That is causing back pressure in the inter-cooler causing that to blow the relief. If I try to stop that, then the low pressure cylinders valve opens and dumps positive air out of the intake.

Figured I would update what I found for future people to see if they come across this thread years from now with the same issue. Piece must have had a hairline fracture in it.

If I should lubricate the head assembly and valve upon reassembly, please let me know what type I should use. I am tempted to use normal assembly lube I use for engines, but I know compressors can be tricky and do not want to use the wrong type.

 

[Packard V8]

The little spring in the valve shaped like a washer broke. Its the larger of the two on the piston side of the valve. I know it is a spring, I just do not know the name of that type of spring. If anyone knows, can you please suggest a reseller I can contact to buy only this part along with the name of that part?

Belleville washer is what I call them. Do a search and Fastenal, among others have them.

jack vines

 

[bob15]

You might want to try IR themselves:

Copied from the IR website:

Philadelphia Customer Center

Ingersoll Rand Customer Centers are the one-stop shop for all your air compressor needs. From reciprocating compressors to large rotary and oil-free air compressors, we have products and services to support your business and help you achieve your goals.

Customer centers provide:

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If you're in need of a tune-up or just have a question, we have highly knowledgeable service technicians who will ensure optimal performance of your machines.
Call Us Today at (610) 314-0045

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Aston, Pa 19014

 

[MacMcMacmac]

It's not a Belleville washer, it's a proper spring. Try eCompressedAir for parts, possibly Master Tool Repair. Maybe see what a head overhaul kit costs. This would have all the parts and gaskets to rebuild each cylinder head and valve. If one has failed it might not be much longer before another one does, especially if there is a lot of corrosion in the heads. Do not use and oil or assembly lube on the valves. This will soon turn to a crusty carbon deposit and your valve problems will begin anew. Make sure you are not using multi weight motor oil either, as that does the same thing. It would be a good idea to lap the bottom of the cylinder head on a nice flat surface like a surface plate or a heavy piece of glass to get the valve seating surface nice and flat. I'd lap the valve body too where the other valve plate sits.

If air is coming back out of the intake, you have more problems than just your second stage valve. If you get it running, try putting a gauge in the interstage port and get a reading. If the pressure is low or zero, your first stage is just along for the ride and doing nothing. If the pressure is fluctuating wildly, you have other valve problems like worn guides which may be letting the discs move around too much and not properly cover the valve ports when seating. I chased that problem for a few hours one day.

 

[930dreamer]

I use to have a pile of T30 unloaders/parts I scored from eBay a few years ago.