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IR T30 for a grand???

tbirkey214

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Been talking to a guy who has an older T30 that his Dad owned. I can only run single face stuff and this is single phase with seven and a half horsepower and it's in pretty good condition. I've been trying to talk this guy down from 2000 and he's pretty solid at a grand. I just moved down here to DFW and just got turned on to auction sites so I just kind of started to realize how much tools out there there is for cheap. What are you guys think should I jump on this for a thousand bucks if it's in good running condition?
 

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Snapped-off

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Been talking to a guy who has an older T30 that his Dad owned. I can only run single face stuff and this is single phase with seven and a half horsepower and it's in pretty good condition. I've been trying to talk this guy down from 2000 and he's pretty solid at a grand. I just moved down here to DFW and just got turned on to auction sites so I just kind of started to realize how much tools out there there is for cheap. What are you guys think should I jump on this for a thousand bucks if it's in good running condition?
Just be careful with auctions. By the time you pay tax and the buyer's premium, some of the junk out there goes for nearly new prices.
 

mike93lx

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If I actually needed. 7.5hp comp, I'd go for that. That's a lot of compressor to have around if you don't need it, though..
Check the tank drain and make sure it's not full of water or clogged with rust
 

finn

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Loom at the actual amps for the motor to see what the "real" HP is.
Those old commercial compressors have pretty honest ratings. That’s not a typical box store model associated with bogus power ratings associated with and derived from inrush current values.

On the other hand, one has to consider the unwieldy size, weight, and high draw power requirements of a large commercial compressors, plus the intended use and duty cycle. It’s a good value if it will be used to run a big shop with lots of high demand equipment like media blasters. But if one uses it solely to run impact guns and air up bicycle tires in a 20’x20’ suburban garage, it’s a bad investment, where a smaller box store compressor would likely last thirty years.
 
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BobnCO

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IR30 represents the standard of large compressors. While the advice it is big is valid..you don’t really have to be running “lots of tools” to need it. It is a good size even for an amateur car guy wanting to run a DA and paint a car. Nothing is more annoying (and hard on a lesser compressor) than your compressor running nearly constantly while sanding and spraying. It will also run cooler and have less issues with moisture. I think more guys on here are only occasionally using to fill tires or maybe shoot a small woodworking project (I do that too). If you might used the capacity then go for it.
 

Cruzan80

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Those old commercial compressors have pretty honest ratings. That’s not a typical box store model associated with bogus power ratings associated with and derived from inrush current values.
Thanks, I wasn't not trying to imply that the 7.5HP was not real, just a "Trust but verify" situation. 1pH 7.5hp motors are not very common.
 

finn

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Thanks, I wasn't not trying to imply that the 7.5HP was not real, just a "Trust but verify" situation. 1pH 7.5hp motors are not very common.
There’s a couple of Champions single phase 7.5 hp compressors over on the Tip Tools (Skat sandblasters) site I’ve been eying. They probably have an equivalent Quincy too.

I had enough trouble moving my old 80 gallon Champion with the same (rebuilt) pump and a 3.5 hp motor into the boiler room, though, and I’m ten years older now. It would be easier to just upgrade the motor, pulley, wiring, and mag starter but I’m still stuck with a 1970 tank.
 
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tbirkey214

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If I actually needed. 7.5hp comp, I'd go for that. That's a lot of compressor to have around if you don't need it, though..
Check the tank drain and make sure it's not full of water or clogged with rust
I do have a pretty large sandblasting cabinet and before I picked it up I kept reading people on form saying that you can never really have too much compressor for that. And besides that I figured just always go as biggest possible
 

mike93lx

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I do have a pretty large sandblasting cabinet and before I picked it up I kept reading people on form saying that you can never really have too much compressor for that. And besides that I figured just always go as biggest possible
Having a cabinet makes that one an easy call.

That said, a compressor can definitely be overkill as compressing air is pretty expensive.
 
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tbirkey214

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IR30 represents the standard of large compressors. While the advice it is big is valid..you don’t really have to be running “lots of tools” to need it. It is a good size even for an amateur car guy wanting to run a DA and paint a car. Nothing is more annoying (and hard on a lesser compressor) than your compressor running nearly constantly while sanding and spraying. It will also run cooler and have less issues with moisture. I think more guys on here are only occasionally using to fill tires or maybe shoot a small woodworking project (I do that too). If you might used the capacity then go for it.
What I hear is a large reason why the newer Ingersoll Rand compressors are such garbage, isn't totally their fault although their standards have gone down a lot, there are guys buying compressors that have a lower capacity then what they need and they're just running the **** out of them. I once had a 97 Nissan hardbody that I used to pull a dual axle trailer with and I wore the absolute hell out of it because it was the wrong source of power for something like that
 
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tbirkey214

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If I actually needed. 7.5hp comp, I'd go for that. That's a lot of compressor to have around if you don't need it, though..
Check the tank drain and make sure it's not full of water or clogged with rust
ALWAYS GO BIGGER! Just pick this up today for 150 bucks
 

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tbirkey214

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Having a cabinet makes that one an easy call.

That said, a compressor can definitely be overkill as compressing air is pretty expensive.
Really? Like noticeably on the monthly bill? I never really thought about that, I also would never really use it that often but that's definitely something I never considered.
 

mike93lx

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Really? Like noticeably on the monthly bill? I never really thought about that, I also would never really use it that often but that's definitely something I never considered.
Really depends on how much it runs.

7.5hp is what a 10+ ton a/c would use. Its not insignificant.
 

Cruzan80

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Really? Like noticeably on the monthly bill? I never really thought about that, I also would never really use it that often but that's definitely something I never considered.

Are you sure you have the ability to power it (or know enough about electrical to install what is needed)? 7.5HP will probably take at least a 50A breaker (hardwired). Not saying that you can't handle it, just another part to consider (and possibly budget for).
 

finn

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Really? Like noticeably on the monthly bill? I never really thought about that, I also would never really use it that often but that's definitely something I never considered.
You can ask Google and AI will run the numbers based on your input of your electric rate, motor efficiency, and motor hp.

In my case, it costs a little under $2.00/ hour of run time.

If I assume actual run time of five hours / week, that’s roughly $25/ month. 5 hrs/week is probably more than mine actually runs.

A 3.5 hp compressor would cost less per hour, but run more hours per unit of work you’re performing. The higher hp motor will have higher inrush current, something Google’s quick and dirty answer likely doesn’t consider.
 

All

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I do have a pretty large sandblasting cabinet and before I picked it up I kept reading people on form saying that you can never really have too much compressor for that. And besides that I figured just always go as biggest possible

A large sandblasting cabinet will even tax the 7.5HP 80 Gallon T30 that you are thinking of buying for $1K.

What pump model does it have? It looks like a 2475. The tag on the pump crankcase will have this info.

It is hard to tell from photos of the pump itself if it is a 2545 or a 2475.

What is the brand on the electric motor? The rounded top capacitor housing makes it look like it could be a Baldor?

Around the time when Ingersoll Rand switched to tan colored paint about 27 years ago, they also changed their suppliers for electric motors. 25 years ago, the single phase 7.5 HP motors that IR used were made by W.E.G., and had a large flat top capacitor housing.

Based on the gray paint color of the T30 that you are looking at, I would estimate its age to be at least 30 years old now.

The unit in the photo does not appear to be a "fully packaged" model, so it does not likely have an auto drain.

The biggest risk in buying a used air compressor is neither the pump (a 2475 is rebuildable) nor the motor (blown capacitors are replaceable). Rather, the risk is in the tank.

When I bought my 80 gallon 7.5HP IR T-30, I took off the pump and the motor (each required a shop crane to lift them off individually... I couldn't even lift the electric motor by itself). I then took the tank to an oil refinery inspection outfit for them to run an ultrasonic thickness tester on the bottom bell of the tank, and compared their findings with the National Board Registration Label shell and bell specifications welded on to the tank when manufactured. It was within spec.

I then filled the tank with water, attached a pressure gauge, and pressure tested it with a grease gun filled with water, to 220 psi. It held.

I then attached a full bore drain port, consisting of an elbow, a one foot horizontal extension, and an easy access ball valve... no fussing around reaching under the tank to fool with petcocks. I also bought a Wilkerson automatic drainvalve.

New, an 7.5HP (true running, not peak) single phase 80 gallon Ingersoll Rand branded compressor ranges between $3,600.00 to $4,500.00, depending on whether fully packaged or not.

Ingersoll Rand offered the 2545 pump with a single phase 7.5HP motor for only one brief period of time that I am aware of, which was one of their anniversary editions. Otherwise, the 2545 pump is normally paired with a 10HP motor, which is not available in single phase. The 2475 pump is more easily driven by a 7.5 HP motor, which is the maximum HP motor available in single phase. That combination puts out 25 CFM at 90 psi, more or less.

It is the CFM that you need to run a large media blast cabinet.

You will be hard pressed to find what you found for less than what you negotiated.
 
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tbirkey214

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A large sandblasting cabinet will even tax the 7.5HP 80 Gallon T30 that you are thinking of buying for $1K.

What pump model does it have? It looks like a 2475. The tag on the pump crankcase will have this info.

It is hard to tell from photos of the pump itself if it is a 2545 or a 2475.

What is the brand on the electric motor? The rounded top capacitor housing makes it look like it could be a Baldor?

Around the time when Ingersoll Rand switched to tan colored paint about 27 years ago, they also changed their suppliers for electric motors. 25 years ago, the single phase 7.5 HP motors that IR used were made by W.E.G., and had a large flat top capacitor housing.

Based on the gray paint color of the T30 that you are looking at, I would estimate its age to be at least 30 years old now.

The unit in the photo does not appear to be a "fully packaged" model, so it does not likely have an auto drain.

The biggest risk in buying a used air compressor is neither the pump (a 2475 is rebuildable) nor the motor (blown capacitors are replaceable). Rather, the risk is in the tank.

When I bought my 80 gallon 7.5HP IR T-30, I took off the pump and the motor (each required a shop crane to lift them off individually... I couldn't even lift the electric motor by itself). I then took the tank to an oil refinery inspection outfit for them to run an ultrasonic thickness tester on the bottom bell of the tank, and compared their findings with the National Board Registration Label shell and bell specifications welded on to the tank when manufactured. It was within spec.

I then filled the tank with water, attached a pressure gauge, and pressure tested it with a grease gun filled with water, to 220 psi. It held.

I then attached a full bore drain port, consisting of an elbow, a one foot horizontal extension, and an easy access ball valve... no fussing around reaching under the tank to fool with petcocks. I also bought a Wilkerson automatic drainvalve.

New, an 7.5HP (true running, not peak) single phase 80 gallon Ingersoll Rand branded compressor ranges between $3,600.00 to $4,500.00, depending on whether fully packaged or not.

Ingersoll Rand offered the 2545 pump with a single phase 7.5HP motor for only one brief period of time that I am aware of, which was one of their anniversary editions. Otherwise, the 2545 pump is normally paired with a 10HP motor, which is not available in single phase. The 2475 pump is more easily driven by a 7.5 HP motor, which is the maximum HP motor available in single phase. That combination puts out 25 CFM at 90 psi, more or less.

It is the CFM that you need to run a large media blast cabinet.

You will be hard pressed to find what you found for less than what you negotiated.


Awesome reply, thank you. I actually tried to go even lower and he said wait one week, so im gonna call again tomorrow. Ive never had an air compressor and by what everyone is saying, this is a really good deal. Hi gotta ask though, how should I be prepared to load this on my trailer??? I just moved a very top heavy press punch and it really taxed my nerves, how would you move something like this????
 
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mike93lx

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Awesome reply, thank you. I actually tried to go even lower and he said wait one week, so im gonna call again tomorrow. Ive never had an air compressor and by what everyone is saying, this is a really good deal. Hi gotta ask though, how should I be prepared to load this on my trailer??? I just moved a very top heavy press punch and it really taxed my nerves, how would you move something like this????
If you don't have a tractor, I'd pull the motor and pump. Load the tank, motor and pump separately. Bringing an engine hoist and a buddy would be smart.

Don't wait a week. Pay the grand and get it home
 
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Jazz1

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Awesome reply, thank you. I actually tried to go even lower and he said wait one week, so im gonna call again tomorrow. Ive never had an air compressor and by what everyone is saying, this is a really good deal. Hi gotta ask though, how should I be prepared to load this on my trailer??? I just moved a very top heavy press punch and it really taxed my nerves, how would you move something like this????
Remove motor to unload then you can manhandle motor and tank seperately. I tried to get it off truck alone but just too top heavy

I had my neighbour lift mine off and carry into garage with his loader,,nice machine he got himself for clearing snow off the driveway
 

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finn

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Just remember that both the motor and pump are going to be heavy and not exactly easy to move. Probably 100 lb each.

The pure size and weight of these industrial compressors and the impact that size and weight has is lost on many members. Fine if you have the equipment, manpower, space, and electrical infrastructure in place.

Sort of like you found the holy grail, but that was only the first step. How do you manage the rest of the project.

Sometimes a box store compressor is actually the best alternative.
 

oldmachinenut

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Just remember that both the motor and pump are going to be heavy and not exactly easy to move. Probably 100 lb each.

The pure size and weight of these industrial compressors and the impact that size and weight has is lost on many members. Fine if you have the equipment, manpower, space, and electrical infrastructure in place.

Sort of like you found the holy grail, but that was only the first step. How do you manage the rest of the project.

Sometimes a box store compressor is actually the best alternative.
This^
This is my Quincy 325 that I rebuilt, the 325 pump weighs 295 pounds and the Westinghouse 215 frame 5 hp motor weighs 165 pounds. Neither can be lifted safely up onto the top plate on the 80 gallon tank without a hoist.IMG_5469.jpeg
 
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All

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When I bought my 80 gallon 7.5HP IR T-30, I took off the pump and the motor (each required a shop crane to lift them off individually... I couldn't even lift the electric motor by itself).

how would you move something like this????

How I moved it might have been lost in the sea of words within my previous post that you already responded to, so I requoted myself, to remind you, and to show that the necessity to remove the motor and the pump, as individual components, is echoed among other respondents having experience with the same size of compressor.
 
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tbirkey214

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OK, so I ended up getting it for 900 bucks and the lady liked me so she also threw in...

Roll around air compressor
Die grinder bit
Gas can
Car jack
2009 Buick rotors in the box

Weird, yes, awesome, also yes... older ladies love me and I cant help it. She said sell it all and I will and im gonna say all in all ill.pretend I got the compressor for 800 bucks.

Did what yall said and bought a hoist( from a preacher who gave me honey from his bee farm, score!) And used it to hold up the engine and pump while I remove them from the tank. Was a very easy job.

Lady said they put a new motor on it and it looks like it... ive done some reading on here and I remember reading something about matching the motor up with the pump somehow (maybe rpm??) So I figure I see if someone can double check if im good to go matching these up. Im guessing it probably was 3 phase and he converted it to single.

**also curious if my 30 amp dryer outlet can ha dle this
 

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All

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mike93lx

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Inrush current is likely 2X FLA, so you’ll need a 50 or 60 amp breaker and appropriate wiring, ie 6 awg.

There are published tables available online
1765263591622.png
Here is the table. 40a for 7.5hp, uprate it 125% for a motor load, and you get 50a. With NM-B, this would require 6/2. If running conduit, you can use #8 thhn. Max breaker sizing is 250%, so 100a max.

I'd run a 50a breaker
 
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tbirkey214

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