IR Type 30 Model 234 Problems

[Gerlacr]

Just picked up an old Model 234 with a 1.5HP motor. Powered it up and the motor had a tough time coming up to speed so I pulled the belt off to check a few things out. The drag on the pump is way more than I expected. It is very stiff. I noticed the motor was turning in the opposite direction which would make the fan blow away from the pump. Not good. I pulled both heads off and the valves are grungy but not bad. The cylinder walls are smooth and oiled. There is plenty of fresh oil in the case. Any suggestions or theories about why it could be so tight? Did running backwards screw something up? Should I pull off the non-pulley side panel to investigate?

RonG

 

[914wilhelm]

Check for gunk in the check valve between the compressor and tank. This is a natural restriction and gets gunked up when airborne crud gets past the air filter. Can test it by simply trying to blow through the valve with person power.

 

[Gerlacr]

I'm talking about lots of drag with the heads off so there is no air being pushed anywhere. This is just pure mechanical drag like something is way too tight.

 

[motofool33]

crank/rod bearings?

 

[Fixnair]

Yes, drain the oil then remove the crankcase cover from the compressor. Thus machine has an overhung crankshaft so you won't mess up any bearing adjustment. Remove the crank cap with the flyweights and wriggle the rods to see if they are free on the crank journal. If they are then the bind is probably in the main bearings. The main bearings are on the other end of the crank inside the snout of the crankcase. To remove these is a little more involved. If you have the tools you can replace them. You will need a puller for the flywheel. The outer ball bearing and the locking ring can be removed in a press. The inner ball bearing will have to be cut apart with an aceteline torch. Then the new bearings can be heated to about 300* (to expand them) and dropped on.

 

[Gerlacr]

Thanks guys. I think you are right. I will pull the panel off once the manual shows up. I ordered a manual off of ebay and should be here soon. Are the bearings common or are they some special Ingersoll_IRand type they no one carries?

Is there any reason why I can't press on the new ones and avoid having to heat them up for a drop on fit? There is fresh oil in this thing. The previous owner must have changed it out after the bearings seized up hoping that would be a magic fix.
I may have more questions once I am inside this thing.

Thanks again

Ron G

 

[Gerlacr]

Mystery solved: missing snap ring. I removed the crankcase cover and unloading flyweight assy as suggested. I could not wiggle the connecting rods. It was a little easier to turn but still not right. I removed the LP cylinder and it got easier. I removed the HP cylinder and the crank turned freely, just as I had expected it to turn before I started all this. The rods and bushing all looked excellent. I reassemble each cylinder and noticed there was a significant amount of side pressure on the connecting rods against the crank which actually made it a little difficult to insert the cylinder bolts but even with both bolted back in place it was still easy to turn. After thinking about it and looking over the manual where it talked about tapping the crank back towards the case once the snap ring was in place. What if the snap ring was busted or missing. I pulled the oil seal cap and sure enough there was no snap ring. The bearing had moved almost about .1" to the point the snap ring groove was not even showing. I tapped the crank back over until the groove was exposed and now the connecting rods can be wiggled and everything turns nice and smoothly. I will just replace the gaskets, oil seal and maybe the finger valves. Are the valves supposed to have a slight bend in them back near the mounting screws?

Thanks for help. It got me where I needed to go.

RonG