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Ironton Dry Cut Metal Saw, input?

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ybnormal70

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Jan 8, 2010
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931
Location
Conway, SC
I have one. Seems to be made well and it cuts very well. I have not used it a lot so I can't speak of long term it holding up but so far so good.

Kevin
 

kkroger

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Apr 21, 2013
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1,143
Save a few more bucks and get a Morse Metal Devil... I've got an Ironton and it works... the clamping system ***** you can't tighten the fence down tight enough to NOT MOVE. it will move while cutting, the CLAMP can't be tightened enough to hold a part solid while mitering the saw pulls the piece through, a cutoff piece got sucked through the blade guard and ripped the clamshell off so no guard anymore.
if you hunt around you can find the Morse Cheaper than this
https://www.ohiopowertool.com/p-150...-3Sta9Oh8GOnypiP5w2uQHjRPT1FnNNrvEaAggr8P8HAQ
Or a Fein SLUGGER Chop...
http://www.trick-tools.com/Fein_Slu...j7CM00x23gqAZ9KEf40RtYR7FiMEw3eOd8aAr5V8P8HAQ
 

Ozwelder

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Feb 6, 2010
Messages
180
Location
Mackay, Queensland.Australia
It looks like a cheap copy of a well known quality unit. Evolution make a good one. There are also Makita and Milwaukee that I have never used.

The name does not fill me with confidence either.Sounds like a super hero robot.
Have a look through the manual link ,the errors in the specs are enough to put me off.

Is the base cast iron or sheet metal.The good brands are a cast base. Sheetmetal bases flex.

A decent wattage on the motor is something to look for .2000 watts on a friction saw is common.I guess these should be near the same.
Pull up the specs on the other brands and compare them ,they should tell you a thing or two.

buyer beware!
Oz
 
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TheEquineFencer

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Farmville, NC 27828
It looks like a cheap copy of a well known quality unit. Evolution make a good one. There are also Makita and Milwaukee that I have never used.

The name does not fill me with confidence either.Sounds like a super hero robot.
Have a look through the manual link ,the errors in the specs are enough to put me off.

Is the base cast iron or sheet metal.The good brands are a cast base. Sheetmetal bases flex.

A decent wattage on the motor is something to look for .2000 watts on a friction saw is common.I guess these should be near the same.
Pull up the specs on the other brands and compare them ,they should tell you a thing or two.

buyer beware!
Oz

You bring up some good points. I guess it's like if you want to live with HF quality or Snap-On quality. The base I'm pretty sure is stamped at that price.


That's what's aggravating to me with what I have now, flex of the abrasive blade and the crappy stamped frame of the Dewalt.
 
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TheEquineFencer

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Farmville, NC 27828
I found this on Pirate 4x4 about the saw...."Quick comment from me: if you buy one, buy the Dewalt or the Makita. I'm really starting to hate my Northern... The fence is adjusted via two Allen cap screws that have a ton of play, and it's damn near impossible to get a proper 45° miter within 3 tries. It cuts, and it's solid, but I need to upgrade."
 

kkroger

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Apr 21, 2013
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1,143
Like I said I have one within 30' of me right now it is garbage, I wish I had added a couple hundred and bought better, Good Luck though. the Morse or Fein are much better saws, I have never laid eyes on a Makita Dry Cut, or a DeWalt here locally, and the Milwaukee is long ago out of production. I also do not recommend the Klutch Blades from Northern they DO Sell Freud Diablo a MUCH superior tool.

I can't wait to get my replacement saw!
 

Thumper68

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May 16, 2013
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Duluth MN
Chuckee2009 on Youtube has one and seems to like it a lot, I went buy once cry once and bought a Jepson way more $$$ but has served me well for 100's of cuts, Just put a Fein Slugger blade on and it works just as well so far as the Jepson blade.
 
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dv8customs

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Dec 29, 2007
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162
Location
East Texas
I have an Evolution saw with a cast base and love it. I have cut a considerable amount of 2x4x3/16 and 1.5" x .120 stock and it cuts both accurately.
 

JamesW

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Apr 8, 2013
Messages
42
I have one. It has a cast base and plenty of power. But as others have said, it won't hold the miter position and pulls the part during the cut.
 
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TheEquineFencer

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I have one. It has a cast base and plenty of power. But as others have said, it won't hold the miter position and pulls the part during the cut.

Thanks for the input. It sounds like the saw works OK, but the clamping system needs some work.

I wonder if anyone has modded this problem yet? I'll see if I can find something about it on YouTube.
 
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TheEquineFencer

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buy a decent size swivel head bandsaw , this thing is mostly for straight cuts the blade is expensive to replace .

I'm bandsaw poor right now...I've got a Grizzly MODEL G0561 right now and a couple HF type laying around, still in the box,(long story) . I really don't need another band saw.
 

jimgood

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Aug 4, 2014
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Marshall, VA
I've got a DeWalt 872 and its clamp is not very good. The cutting head will flex too so you have to be really careful not to press down too hard or the cut will not be straight.

I gave up on precise cuts and just cut everything about 1/16" - 1/8" longer then use my disc grinder to get the precise angle and length.
 

customh

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Feb 18, 2013
Messages
562
Location
East Bethel, MN
Go with the Morse Metal Devil and make sure you get the V Blocks right away (amazon has them cheapest). Best time to buy the Morse is when Zoro has a 25% off code, can snag it for $379.
I tried to justify a cheaper one but for as long as you're going to own it there's no sense going cheap.
 
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TheEquineFencer

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FWIW: I was thinking about using a VFD on a standard saw to slow it to 1500 RPM, buT I just called a VFD company and they said it wouldn't work, it needed to be a 3P motor.
 

tarbellb

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Apr 17, 2011
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Oregon
I have used several brands of dry cuts over the years, its my primary tool for cutting steel.

Here are some previous threads that cover some of your questions-

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=356755

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=351584

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=349113

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=348415

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=347622

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=346881

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=342294

To highlight some of the points:

They are very basic machines, motor, fence/vise, base are the three major factors. Agreed that a bad base/fence/vise will give you headaches and inaccuracy.

The (14") Evo has been the best overall machine considering performance/price.

Good luck.
 

dv8customs

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Dec 29, 2007
Messages
162
Location
East Texas
Which model do you have, I've been looking at the Evo 380. HERE is the best deal I've seen so far

I have this one. The steel specific blade works much better than the multi-purpose on there in this pic

929278_297562913739442_331896373_n.jpg
 

tarbellb

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I recommend the beefier one that was linked earlier-
Evo 380= better handle, stronger motor iirc?
 

dv8customs

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Dec 29, 2007
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162
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East Texas
The one I have is the original Rage version and it is more like the current 380 version. The new RAGE2 does not look to be built as solid as the original version that I have.
 

BD1

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north side
I bought the RAGE two for $99.00 when they were on clearance. Ok for $100 but not in the same league as a rel one. Invest in the higher end saws and you will be much happier.
 
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