Is an air chisel a worthwhile purchase?

[rogersmithiii]

Curious if an Ingersoll Rand Air chisel is something useful? They don't seem to be real expensive. Curious what people do with them.

 

[larry4406]

I’ve used the cheapo Cambell Housefield and HF ones for concrete demo, masonry demo, etc.

Been quite handy.

 

[M6erfan]

Is that like an air hammer? If so, then yes, especially if you live/work in the rust belt.

 

[LXCam]

Cheap ones are worthless and irritating. Good ones are worth their weight in gold.

 

[tez929rr]

We ended up buying one that works off of an SCBA bottle to keep on our rescue truck. Now, when we use it we don’t have to worry about too much damage so it’s a great tool for us, but if you’re not careful it will tear up a lot of stuff in a hurry. I tried to find an electric one but no one makes one.
Thread

 

[Oldbear]

I find that they’re handy for demolition and when something needs to come apart but damage isn’t a concern. You can get different heads - hammer, spike, chisel and seam splitter to name a few.

 

[rogersmithiii]

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200342899_200342899

 

[rogersmithiii]

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200342899_200342899

Or

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_24001_24001

 

[DTE]

you use them for splitting nuts in two, knocking the heads off of rivetts, you can get a panel cutter bit for cutting sheet metal. So it just depends on what you do.

 

[BukitCase]

I have 2 CP (Chicago Pneumatic) and 2-3 of the HF ones (too far between my shop areas NOT to have multiples) - most have "tease-able" triggers which can make 'em even MORE useful - I build a lotta stuff from square tube and flat bar, I keep ONE of the HF's loaded with a 1" wide chisel, kept fairly sharp - on open flat areas, after welding with C25 gas there're STILL an occasional bb or six - I hold the chisel flat against the open area and PUSH the hammer by hand, that gets off the ALMOST stuck bb's - a gentle (usually) blip of the trigger powers thru the stickier ones.

Then the CORNER of the chisel (light trigger action) will make quick work (and a LOT less carpal tunnel) of more serious (including stick) slag. Finish up with a knotted brush on a grinder, and done.

The longer stroke CP I got recently

Chicago Pneumatic CP7150 Heavy Duty Pistol Grip Air Hammer, 2, 300 BPM - Power Hammer Drills - Amazon.com

Chicago Pneumatic CP7150 Heavy Duty Pistol Grip Air Hammer, 2, 300 BPM - Power Hammer Drills - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

is a LOT more effective for driving pieces of 1-1/2" EMT into my "summertime" clay soil (think "sandstone", or close) - I had a "test piece" consisting of a short piece of .120" wall 2x2, capped with a piece of 3/8" FB, used that over the end of the EMT and a 1-1/4" hammer bit in the air hammer. Drove 2' long pieces of the 1-1/2" EMT into the "brick" soil, a foot deep in about 20 seconds. In 100 degree weather, 20 seconds of holding a pistol grip beats the **** outa maybe 30 swings of an 8 pound hammer, ESPECIALLY if you have 16 of 'em to do...

So yeah, if you do anything more than play video games you'll probably find a use for one ... Steve

 

[Neggy]

I have one at home, I have not used it in years, but normally they are a short money tool that is worth having around.

In the body/frame shop they were essential

At the shop they are also needed to get rusted hubs and such out of knuckles, etc.

You don't know how much you need one until you do and it is not in your tool box

 

[BukitCase]

Either of the two you linked at Northern would be fine; but BOTH of those triggers aren't very "tease-able" - won't matter if you aren't inclined to be too "****" on "less-than-brute-force" applications.

The Chicago you linked is the one I have. I just re-checked, and its trigger is "sorta" controllable, til you push a little more, then it's balls out...

The HF ones (like this one)

Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977

Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!

www.harborfreight.com

have a more controllable trigger for "delicate" destruction, but are not NEARLY as effective for heavier tasks as the long barrel units. The GOOD news is it's pretty cheep to find out if they're ENOUGH :=)

A warning - you may need a pressure regulator if your air source is more than 100 PSI - even the Chicago I have don't want any higher, so a pressure regulator (I have a couple that have male/female QD's AND gauges on them so they can be added/removed quickly) may be necessary... Steve

Edit - somehow I missed one of YOUR links - this one

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200342899_200342899

DOES have the more controllable trigger AND is le$$$$...

 

[d.mcfarland]

Is that like an air hammer? If so, then yes, especially if you live/work in the rust belt.

This. Beats swinging a hammer and much easier in tight spaces. Worth the $30 for any DIY or Pro.

 

[MJK]

Good luck changing the front diff bushing on a 98-07 Toyota Land Cruiser without one.

 

[anndel]

Air hammers with chisel bits, yes worth every penny. I have a set that includes chisels and hammer bits.

 

[isb cornbinder]

If a person does not have an adequate air supply and a better air hammer, all you will get is noise. I have had an IR heavy duty air hammer for 30 plus years. This unit will cut steel 1/2 frame rivet heads off in a few seconds. It also punches' out the rivets easily. I have used the air hammer to buck a few red hot rivets.

 

[BukitCase]

Oops, I almost forgot pickle forks... Steve

"If a person does not have an adequate air supply and a better air hammer, all you will get is noise."

Good point - when I was pounding EMT into the clay/brick, I needed 300 feet of hose to reach from the nearest air - so I drug the hose, and fed my 11 gallon portable air tank with it - then a 25' hose from that to run the hammer. Got one EMT driven between re-fills of the portable tank...

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

the exhaust pipe peeler can be a good tip too.

 

[Jlarson]

I'd be lost without one, and all the bits. I actually keep two in the truck, one rigged for hammering and the other with a needle attachment for welding.

 

[unslow1]

I rarely use one anymore but I used to use them to remove rusty/damaged rear quarters. A frozen O2 had me break out one a couple of weeks ago for the first time in over a year. No it didn't knock it loose.

 

[theoldwizard1]

The cheap ones will make you deaf and are frustrating to use.

Price range is all over the place. The big one need lots of air. Make sure your compressor is big enough.

 

[maplewood]

I have the big IR one, driven by the ubiquitous 5(?) Gallon pancake compressor. Bought a cheap set of pickle fork style attachments for it, was the only thing that would get some 20 year old ball joints to separate, and I tried most every other method with significant force. It also came in handy for getting 20 year old hubs out of their uprights. Some heat and rapping on the side with the air hammer was the ticket for that frustration.

Haven't used it much since then, minus removing an old exhaust with nuts that were badly, badly corroded. Its a tool that for a home garage I'd think you shouldn't need often, but its worth its weight in gold the first time you do need it.

 

[tyyost]

Cheap ones are worthless and irritating. Good ones are worth their weight in gold.

This is the best advice so far. These are not an ”it depends” kind of tool. I have an older long barrel CH and an Astro big nasty. I remember reading about cutting frame rivets and knocking out bushings years ago, guess what, the CH never came close. Sure, it would chip concrete, maybe turn a nut, but cut thick metal, not even close.

Big nasty will flatten an impact socket and cut plate. Still some things it can’t move. If you go budget, have very realistic expectations, sure, you can cut muffler pipe, beat on a bushing, but it won’t be like you see on YouTube. A solid air supply is important too, or your power curve will drop very rapidly.

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

I used one to set rivets on my tinny. No more leaks. But I had to be careful, it would flatten them too much. It was just a $20 CH.

 

[d.mcfarland]

High flow air couplers are a must.

 

[Kenskip1]

So, for the holidays "Happy New Year" I had a need for a better air hammer. After reading about all the famous brands and what they are capable of doing, I had intended of purchasing one of Astros models. However, my requirements are not as stringent or demanding as his. Also my financial situation at this time is boarding near the poverty arena.. So I hobble into my local "Harbor Freight" and walked out with there Chief air hammer model, CH401LB long barrel. I will tell you this. If you do not have a good grip when you squeeze the trigger, you will wish that you did. Anyway for my intended purposes this should do the trick. One note, this is heavy and makes plenty of noise. Hopefully it will serve me well in the near future

 

[Wrench97]

So, for the holidays "Happy New Year" I had a need for a better air hammer. After reading about all the famous brands and what they are capable of doing, I had intended of purchasing one of Astros models. However, my requirements are not as stringent or demanding as his. Also my financial situation at this time is boarding near the poverty arena.. So I hobble into my local "Harbor Freight" and walked out with there Chief air hammer model, CH401LB long barrel. I will tell you this. If you do not have a good grip when you squeeze the trigger, you will wish that you did. Anyway for my intended purposes this should do the trick. One note, this is heavy and makes plenty of noise. Hopefully it will serve me well in the near future

The hard hitting ones are great if that's what you need, but for stuff like trailer door rivets or side wall buck rivets they hit too hard and do more damage then repair.
I have 4 at this point a cheapie short barrel for side wall rivets, a IR short barrel mainly for door rivets, a IR long barrel for suspension work and a .498 CP 717 for stuff that needs extra persuasion

 

[FMB4]

I've had a cheap CH air chisel for ~20 yrs that I run off of a 90cfm CH compressor. A couple of pickle forks is mostly what I use with it. Chisel wise, I've loosened maybe 2 or 3 large rounded off nuts. This tool sits in the bottom of my 22" or so long 'air tool' box for years without being used. But when I need it I've been glad to have it around.

 

[2oolhound]

I had to remove ceramic tiles off a bathroom floor. Was going at it with hammers and chizels. I could see I'd be there for a whole day at least. Then I tried my air hammer. It took about an hour and a half.

On automotive it hits like a ball peen hammer but you don't need to clear a path for the swing and they hit 30 times faster.

 

[brandonsmash]

I almost never use mine, but it's nice to have on the occasions I need it. I've used it for things such as pushing out frozen studs when I couldn't get the hub to mount right in the hydraulic press.

I also have one with a needle scaler attachment. I think I've used that once or twice.

Overall I've not found mine to be tremendously useful, but for the price it's worth having one around.

 

[Badgerstate]

Curious if an Ingersoll Rand Air chisel is something useful? They don't seem to be real expensive. Curious what people do with them.

If its something you are going to use a lot, sure. Just keep in mind that while the tool itself might be cheap, the air compressor that you will need to run it properly isnt going to be cheap.

 

[Ign]

Honestly almost never use an actual chisel on my air hammers.

For me the most useful is the "blunt nose" attachments Mayhew sells for vibrating taper fits free (TRE's and BJ's)

I try to not use the pickle fork unless I'm ok with destroying the TRE or BJ stud and accompanying boot.

ACTUALLY, I do use a chisel on the high point of a hex for fan clutches. One tiny blip typically knocks the clutch free. Lots of vids on YT for this technique.

 

[engineer2]

I bought the nicer HF model. Works great for removing ceramic tile and driving those 8 foot long electrical ground rods. No adapter need to drive ground rods.

 

[vanapplebomb]

I love air hammers/chisels. For automotive work, they are gold. In seconds I can bust something loose that would have taken a half hour with a heavy ball peen. Frozen caliper pins? Piece of cake. Also useful for frozen tie rod ends, cutting seized bolts, cutting sheet metal, etc…

the medium barrel 2-5/8” stroke air hammers are a great balance of power and compactness. You can get a lot of work done with them.

 

[Luke5305]

I've had a few of the cheaper ones and they don't last very long, the casing splits or cracks or repeated use breaks the retaining mechanism , mine were always used to break the heads of rivets or cut rusty platework without resorting to a grinder. If the end of the chisel has a wire hoop to hold the attachment it's probably DIY level.

Some one at work has a blue point branded air hammer , with a sliding quick release chuck,that is powerful and hasn't broke, seen it drive bushes out and cut through corroded bolts, but it doesn't get used that much, the noise level is insane !

 

[Wrench97]

I've had a few of the cheaper ones and they don't last very long, the casing splits or cracks or repeated use breaks the retaining mechanism , mine were always used to break the heads of rivets or cut rusty platework without resorting to a grinder. If the end of the chisel has a wire hoop to hold the attachment it's probably DIY level.

Some one at work has a blue point branded air hammer , with a sliding quick release chuck,that is powerful and hasn't broke, seen it drive bushes out and cut through corroded bolts, but it doesn't get used that much, the noise level is insane !

Not really a lot of buck rivet tool bits do not fit/work well in the quick lock type retainer.

 

[tez929rr]

An air chisel makes an appearance in “The French Connection”

 

[Lucid Moments]

So just out of curiosity what is the difference between an air chisel and an air hammer other than the bits? I have an Ingersoll Rand 114 GQC air hammer as a point of reference.

 

[JacksonsDad]

An air hammer/chisel is a handy tool to have, even a cheap one. They’ve bailed me out many times on those “dark stormy nights” when nothing goes right. Just one example is - stuck or corroded capscrew/bolt, spray with your favorite snake oil, put the flat punch in and give it a little tickle on the fastener head. Sets up a vibration and helps the penetrating oil penetrate! Also great for use in places you can’t swing a hammer to hit a drift pin or punch. Split stuck nuts in tight spots. I’ve a drawer full of chisels, different size punches, rivet setters, exhaust tube cutting bits that I’ve accumulated over the years for it. Can be a real job saver.

 

[Wrench97]

So just out of curiosity what is the difference between an air chisel and an air hammer other than the bits? I have an Ingersoll Rand 114 GQC air hammer as a point of reference.

The bit you put in the tool is the only difference.