Is my figuring right?

[FunkyfullWidth]

Been adding up what I need for wire and breakers in my garage. What I've figured so far is this.

I will have:

Lift 220v 15-18 amps 30 amp breaker, 10 gauge

Lights probably around 12 or so 4 bulb 8' lithonia's. so I estimated .85 x 12= 10.2 amps.
15 amp breaker 12 gauge

And then 12 gauge For a run to either of the garage door openers with an outlet at each. 20 amp breaker.

This would take care of all the ceiling runs for me. But it gets confusing because I'm not sure how to actually run things. I know what it is I want to accomplish, which is 5 rows of lighting on 2 seperate switches, yet on the same circuit. Would that mean I still have to run 6 seperate wires? 3 to each bank?

Also would I have to run seperate conduit for the lift, lights, and whatever else. I wanted to plan ahead and run wires and conduit for a heater because that is in the plans. I thought there were rules against how many circuits you can have in a conduit. If that's the case, could i have a few conduit runs, but go into one gang box and break off of that? I just don't want the conduit runs looking like a pile of snakes or a pipe factory.

so my plan is to just get 3 rolls of 12 gauge wire to cover the lights, outlets and garage doors. Should I do black red green? Then I was going to get 3 smaller rolls of 10 gauge for the lift.... How does this sound?

 

[nwav8tor]

Been adding up what I need for wire and breakers in my garage. What I've figured so far is this.

I will have:

Lift 220v 15-18 amps 30 amp breaker, 10 gauge

Need a double pole breaker for 220V

Lights probably around 12 or so 4 bulb 8' lithonia's. so I estimated .85 x 12= 10.2 amps.
15 amp breaker 12 gauge

Are you sure the 8' four bulb fixtures are only .85A? Check the actual rating of the ballast(s) to be sure the total of the 12 fixtures doesn't exceed 80% of the circuit's capability. If you're using #12 wire, you might just as well use a 20A breaker for lights unless your code specifies 15A max.

And then 12 gauge For a run to either of the garage door openers with an outlet at each. 20 amp breaker.

15A here with would probably be sufficient, but 20A is OK too if you're getting rolls of #12. Some areas might allow you to use non-GFCI for opener outlets, but if you'll be using the outlets to power other stuff (retractable cords?) you'd want them to be protected by a GFCI.

This would take care of all the ceiling runs for me. But it gets confusing because I'm not sure how to actually run things. I know what it is I want to accomplish, which is 5 rows of lighting on 2 seperate switches, yet on the same circuit. Would that mean I still have to run 6 seperate wires? 3 to each bank?

No, I don't think so. Power, neutral and ground to each bank, but you should be able to run a single neutral and single ground to both banks. Only need to run a seperate power wire through each switch to its respective bank. Don't forget to run a ground to the switches also.

Also would I have to run seperate conduit for the lift, lights, and whatever else. I wanted to plan ahead and run wires and conduit for a heater because that is in the plans. I thought there were rules against how many circuits you can have in a conduit. If that's the case, could i have a few conduit runs, but go into one gang box and break off of that? I just don't want the conduit runs looking like a pile of snakes or a pipe factory.

Sorry, not a conduit guy here, hopefully someone else will chime in.

so my plan is to just get 3 rolls of 12 gauge wire to cover the lights, outlets and garage doors. Should I do black red green? Then I was going to get 3 smaller rolls of 10 gauge for the lift.... How does this sound?

That'd work for the #10, but for the #12 wire I'd suggest Black, White and Green for the 110V circuits.

Paul

 

[porcupine73]

Right I would double check the draw for the lamps. Personally if I were already planning to use two separate switches for the banks of lights, I'd just put them on separate circuits on opposite 120v legs. Just so if one breaker or circuit has an issue you don't suddenly lose all lights in the shop.

The lights themselves on each bank you can just wire in parallel if that's what you're asking. Like run the hot and neutral from the switch #1 to lamp #1, then from lamp #1 to lamp #2, etc.

If you need say 3 spools of 12-2, I don't know what length you're talking, like 250 ft or whatever, but it might be cheaper to just get a 1000' spool then. Though that can be a little harder to work with.

Right usually for a normal garage door opener 15A would be enough, so long as the door starting up doesn't trip the instantaneous on the breaker. The door runs for only maybe 30 seconds at a time. If you're running both door openers at the same time then you probably do want a 20a.