Is this a good Unisaw?

[westcoastkevin]

Okay,
I have been on the lookout for a cabinet saw for some of the remodel stuff at the house.
Going to make a bunch of custom trim.
Going to probably make some doors. (I have some odd sizes)
Some cabinets.
Misc other things.

I am not in a rush but this showed up locally. It is a Delta Unisaw 34-806F
It looks to be a single phase from the pic of the plug. I may be able to go look at it on Monday but would like to learn a bit about these saws before going up there.

Delta Unisaw:
Model: 34-806F
Serial number is 87Kxxxxx (August 1987)

I am not sure if there is power where it is currently sitting. It is coming out of a school. I am waiting to hear why it is being decommissioned.

1. What are known problems withese from 1987 era?
2. Any particular expensive hard to find parts I should be wary of?
3. What tools should I bring with me to inspect it. (Straight edge, etc?)

I assume I might have to replace belts and/or bearings but would not be too offended by that.
I cannot tell if there is a twist in the fence rail on the left end or if it is just a photographic artifact.

Naturally, I have to figure out what I am willing to pay for it.

What is the price range for a saw like this?
Upper limit?

 

[seber]

Unifence is, in my opinion, far better than Biesemeyr. All parts are expensive. That appears to be three phase. The motor configuration is unique to Unisaws and very high priced. So much so that I ran a three phase on an inverter to save needing to buy a motor. Prices for complete saw generally start around $600 and can go way up.

 

[westcoastkevin]

Thanks for the reply.
I have 240v in my barn/shop. I got the go ahead to come inspect the machine early next week.
Is the fence on this saw the UniFence? That does have an appeal to me for sure. I did not see many with that, or ANY.
Kevin

 

[ddawg16]

A better pic of the plug would help....it could be a 4-wire 240 Vac plug.

Here is the chart

 

[The Cobbler]

looks like a decent saw. the plug , being in a school setting is probably 3 phase. yes, motors are pricey for unisaws .
not much goes wrong with them as far as I know, they can have issues with bearings in the spindle but relatively easy change out with common bearings . at least in a school it's not been a production machine where it runs all day long.
my area last time I was looking would be probably around the $1k range , probably less for a 3 phase

 

[Max]

Personally I prefer the unifence as well. It may not be obvious, but by loosening the nut on the right side you can remove the fence and rotate it 90 degrees. Very handy if you are cutting thin sheets of wood.

My saw cost me 1K three years ago. It’s 3 HP single phase. I had to add about $150 in missing fence parts, a rolling base ($100), and a splitter/saw guard/dust collector (Shark guard, $300) to get the saw where I wanted. The cobbler is correct - unless it’s rusted out or got dropped (broken cast iron) and if the motor works the only thing left is inexpensive bearings.

Make sure that the saw operates through the full range of blade height and blade tilt. And from the pics you’ll want al least a splitter/guard, and maybe a mobile base.

 

[PoorUB]

I just bought Unisaw just like that for $900. I did end up putting another $400-$500 into it, but it was mostly the mobile base I made for it. Here is the thread. I could have used it like it came, but I just dove in and re-built it like I wanted.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/my-new-to-me-tablesaw.490880/#post-9358134

1 phase or 3 phase is not a big deal, but if you go 3 phase you will need to swap out the motor or buy a variable frequency drive. With a VFD you can run 3 phase motor on 1 phase. The VFD will cost you $300 or so plus the aggravation of making it work, so if electrical wiring is not your strong suit perhaps avoid 3 phase and look for 1 phase machines only. I just wired up a Teac VFD on a drill press I have.

1 phase, complete Unisaws sell in this areas for $1500 to over $2000. Once in a while a deal comes along.
As far as a "bad" Unisaw, it doesn't exist. Some guys thing they need to be a 1940's machine, but the guts of the machine are pretty much the same no mater the year. The cabinets changed over the years, but that is about all. If you want a projsect you can buy older Unisaws that need a fence and extension tables for $500, but you will drop a bunch of money into them.

I have a Unifence. It is a good fence. Some like the Biesemeyer better, but either one is good. the old Jet lock fence is **** IMO, but some guys like them. I figured if I bought a Unisaw with the Jet lock fence I would be replacing it.

Watch out for bad arbors. I looked at one a year ago. The threads on the arbor are a flat topped acme thread. If the threads are bad you will need to change out the arbor and may as well change out the bearing too. That will set you back $300-$400.

 

[PoorUB]

As far as the plug in the OP's post. It looks like it has 4 prongs, that makes it a 3 phase machine. If the price is right buy a VFD and wire that in, but it will add $300-$400 to the price of getting it running if you only have single phase.

 

[RTM]

If I was buying, a long straight edge, a ~6” engineers square, and a bright light to look up into where the blade mounts, to make sure everything is intact. The straight edge to check that the table is flat, across both angles and at front middle and back left to right. The square to make sure the blade and fence are square to the table. Some like to check that the blade is parallel to the slot, but that is suppose to be adjustable on modern saws. Done with a caliper and someway to anchor it to the slot.

 

[PoorUB]

Parallel to the slot is easily adjustable. As is the Unifence, all easily adjustable. I would not even worry about it. It wouldn't hurt to check the table for flatness, but the tables on a Unisaw are fairly robust and I have never heard of an issue with a bad table, other than a rusted up or obviously abused one.

Once in a while someone will run across a Unisaw with a broken trunion, but it does not happen often. Worst part is you probably wouldn't know unless you pull the cast iron top off.

Make sure the tilt and lift cranks all the way, both ways. If it cranks harder in one spot I might be suspicious that the gears are worn.

With a Unisaw the table bolts on to the cabinet at each corner with a large Allen head bolt on the later models, (3/8" Allen maybe?). The saw trunions, motor and all the works inside bolt to the cabinet separately. Four bolts and a couple healthy guys and you can lift off the table. the seller might allow you to pull the table to check the guts.

 

[Firebrick43]

I concour that the unifence is superior, and that is a good saw. Peachtree sells a nice extrusion to add utility to the fence system. There is no better fence to trim laminate/veneer than a unifence.

By the part number its a 5hp 3 phase machine, but, mine was to, but someone coverted it over to a 3hp single phase motor. 4 prong doesn't make it 3 phase. Who knows what some nutball wired it up with. Look at the motor name plate. I would agree with the VFD. I wish mine was 3 phase as I hate the thump of belts when it starts. A VFD can give you ramp up and down, also safer bringing the blade to a stop faster

 

[seber]

I see no one answered the question. Yes, that is a unifence.

 

[foghorn1966]

No one answered the other question with a good guess.
Probably nothing wrong with it. Most likely replaced with a Sawstop one for liability issues.

 

[Whitworth]

That's a nice looking saw. VFDs have gotten so cheap that you may be able to get that running for about $200.

 

[PoorUB]

I worked in HVAC for years. VFDs were so heap that we would often substitute them instead of a good old motor starter. Motor starters wer over well over $1,000. VFDs 3ere half the price and did more.

 

[westcoastkevin]

Thanks everyone for the replies and the information.
Also @PoorUB Those flip down tables are just terrific on yours.

I went and looked at it this morning, and found out the story. I decided to buy it.
I will head up next week sometime with the trailer to pick it up.

It is 3-phase so a little VFD homework is in order.
I have 100 amp 240v in the barn.

Thanks again.
Kevin

 

[The Cobbler]

nice score!