Looks like someone has replaced yours with a male coupling and a hard cap.The short piece to the right of the drain valve, under the pressure switch ****** - is that a pressure relief valve?
It doesn't look like any that are currently sold.
If not, is it a cleanout? Looks like pvc.

The pressure switch was not working right and the pressure approached 100psi before I shut it off.No... well aside from it'll probably blow before copper pipes do being it's plastic.
Just redid mine, was a mess. Temp job, but still.
The pressure switches are often mounted on a 1/4" NPT long ******. Those get plugged with crud.The pressure switch was not working right and the pressure approached 100psi before I shut it off.
The plastic plug did not blow out. I need to replace it with a 75psi prv.
I've never seen a pressure reducing valve on a well pump...The pressure switch was not working right and the pressure approached 100psi before I shut it off.
The plastic plug did not blow out. I need to replace it with a 75psi prv.
That is a Cycle Stop valve. Also known as a mechanical constant pressure valve. I have used many. It makes you able to use a much smaller tank than normal, and still get enough pump run time, plus constant pressure.I've never seen a pressure reducing valve on a well pump...
Adjust (or replace) your cutoff switch and verify tank bladder is all you need
Really?That is a Cycle Stop valve. Also known as a mechanical constant pressure valve. I have used many. It makes you able to use a much smaller tank than normal, and still get enough pump run time, plus constant pressure.

I thought you were talking about the red regulator on post #4.
There any reason you need to be condescending and rude?Considering I quoted #5, it should have been obvious what I was talking about
Several.There any reason you need to be condescending and rude?
Make sure your switch is shutting the pump around 60psi.I replaced the pvc plug with a 75psi pressure relief valve, and I replaced the drain valve which was dripping.
Yes, works well. I bought it like 4 years ago, finally got around to installing it.That is a Cycle Stop valve. Also known as a mechanical constant pressure valve. I have used many. It makes you able to use a much smaller tank than normal, and still get enough pump run time, plus constant pressure.
Sometimes they take a little bit of adjusting to make them work correctly, but they are foolproof once they are going. And power issues don’t affect them like they do on VFD’s, etc.Yes, works well. I bought it like 4 years ago, finally got around to installing it.
It has made the shower much nicer. Before was constantly varying temperature, depending if the pressure was getting down near 40 or was near 60.Sometimes they take a little bit of adjusting to make them work correctly, but they are foolproof once they are going. And power issues don’t affect them like they do on VFD’s, etc.
Even a 4.5 gallon tank will work good with that valve. The pressure will be more constant with a smaller tank. But I use a 20 gallon tank like you most of the time if there is room for it. Easier to set up than a smaller tank tank without a base. The biggest downfall is the increased back pressure between the pump and CSV. No problem as long as the pipes and equipment are in good shape.It has made the shower much nicer. Before was constantly varying temperature, depending if the pressure was getting down near 40 or was near 60.
Also the pump would cycle probably 3-4 times while the washer was filling.
I'd recommend it to anyone with a well. Other option is sizing the tank correctly, but a 120 gallon tank is about $850, and takes alot of space. And still wouldn't have even pressure.
With the CSV, the pump stays running while water is being used.
My tank is a "20 gallon", but it's really only ~5 gallon capacity. Was barely enough to flush the toilet and wash my hands without the pump coming on.
No reason to be in here spreading that then...Several.
