Is this drill anything special?

[Lbcwanabe]

It's been on here a while. Thanks!
http://tampa.craigslist.org/hdo/tls/4704624594.html

 

[A_Pmech]

Several manufacturers made drills like that for many years.

With only one or two speeds, they're great at breaking wrists and arms. A two or three foot pipe handle mostly tames them.

 

[ecotec]

Maybe to a collector…

For the vast vast majority (people who actually want to use them)… Run Away!

If you really want what is referred to as a compact drill, buy a modern one. Milwaukee is the industry standard. If you want your arms broken, to be knocked off ladders… Go vintage. Even pre gray paint Milwaukee drills are terrible. The modern clutches make a huge difference. Even a modern one is a tool to be respected.

21 years ago, I started as an electrician. We used this model (650 RPM) and the 900 RPM model. I did residential with "compact" drills and ship augers for 4 years.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1610-1

 

[Davefr]

If it doesn't break your arms it'll electrocute you. That metal spring strain relief will contact the live conductor on the old/worn cord and send 120VAC into the housing of the drill. If you're grounded, you're dead.

 

[ecotec]

Also… The other brands (Dewalt…) are not as good.

 

[dnschmidt]

What does special mean? To me it looks like a Powercraft sold by Montgomery Ward back in the 1960's. Is that special to somebody? Beats me.

 

[Zeke]

Good for mixing mud and paint.

 

[raiderhillbilly]

I had a Montgomery Ward drill just like that. I never used it. It is too heavy. I bought a Milwaukee at a yard sale for 15 dollars that rocks!

 

[Cope]

Maybe to a collector…

For the vast vast majority (people who actually want to use them)… Run Away!

If you really want what is referred to as a compact drill, buy a modern one. Milwaukee is the industry standard. If you want your arms broken, to be knocked off ladders… Go vintage. Even pre gray paint Milwaukee drills are terrible. The modern clutches make a huge difference. Even a modern one is a tool to be respected.

21 years ago, I started as an electrician. We used this model (650 RPM) and the 900 RPM model. I did residential with "compact" drills and ship augers for 4 years.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1610-1

There's a reason Milwaukee uses a 5/8" shaft on their chucks while most other brands have a 1/2" shaft.

 

[ecotec]

Good for mixing mud and paint.

Perfect use.

 

[Fretters]

If it doesn't break your arms it'll electrocute you. That metal spring strain relief will contact the live conductor on the old/worn cord and send 120VAC into the housing of the drill. If you're grounded, you're dead.

Why everyone has such an obsession with thinking these things are guaranteed to electrocute is beyond me. They were used for donkeys years without incident and are still good for many more. The same precautionary checks and tests as for any piece of non double insulated electrical equipment are necessary, (renewing the mains lead as a matter of course is always prudent too), but no more than that. A RCD or similar removes any electrocution risk too.

Personally, I love the old metal body drills. Of the few electric drills I occasionally use these days, they're the only type I generally use. Slow speed and built like brick shithouses, so far more robust than their modern counterparts.

 

[GortonsFisherman]

Used one very similar throughout my electrical apprenticeship 25+ years ago. Never broke my arm, never got a shock, much less electrocuted, lol.

I'd buy it in a heartbeat if it were in front of me - for nostalgia, if for nothing more. Wouldn't think twice about running it, if I had the need.

A little common sense goes a long way.

 

[Davefr]

Why everyone has such an obsession with thinking these things are guaranteed to electrocute is beyond me. They were used for donkeys years without incident and are still good for many more. The same precautionary checks and tests as for any piece of non double insulated electrical equipment are necessary, (renewing the mains lead as a matter of course is always prudent too), but no more than that. A RCD or similar removes any electrocution risk too.

Personally, I love the old metal body drills. Of the few electric drills I occasionally use these days, they're the only type I generally use. Slow speed and built like brick shithouses, so far more robust than their modern counterparts.

^^^That was really my point. These old metal case/non insulated power tools need a thorough checkup before even thinking about putting them to work.

Cord are often frayed/rotten, ground prongs on the plug are often cut off and many of them were never made with 3 wire plugs.

A new 3 wire cord with a dedicated ground to the metal case and they can be used safely for many years. (better yet with a GFI circuit)

 

[panknuckshovel]

The badge is pretty cool. Its in Spring Pill so might be hot.

 

[gte718p]

Why everyone has such an obsession with thinking these things are guaranteed to electrocute is beyond me. They were used for donkeys years without incident and are still good for many more. The same precautionary checks and tests as for any piece of non double insulated electrical equipment are necessary, (renewing the mains lead as a matter of course is always prudent too), but no more than that. A RCD or similar removes any electrocution risk too.

Personally, I love the old metal body drills. Of the few electric drills I occasionally use these days, they're the only type I generally use. Slow speed and built like brick shithouses, so far more robust than their modern counterparts.

While they may not have electrocuted you they actually have quite a record of hurting people. Do a little research. Most people unless they happen to be in the Navy don't megger their tools before each use.

Not bad tools, but I like my double insulated tools

 

[diggerrick]

If it doesn't break your arms it'll electrocute you. That metal spring strain relief will contact the live conductor on the old/worn cord and send 120VAC into the housing of the drill. If you're grounded, you're dead.

I figured it was something simple to fix. Dad has my great-grandfathers old Milwaukee, and it gives you a good tingle when you use it. I wore PVC gloves last time and was fine, but would like to fix it. My great-grandfather built racing engines for about 50 years, and Dad used to hone many of them as a teenager in the '50's with this drill. He said if he went too far down the cylinder and the hone would catch on a main or something it would spin him right around. And he got a heckuva workout with each engine.

 

[CNGsaves]

Old, slow, steady and reliable.
Get your weightlifting and drilling done at the same time . . . pump you up !!

I used similar Black & Decker back in the '70s when needed the 1/2" chuck for BIG bits.

Only missing the screw-in handle on top, but can fabricate one easy.

For $25 can't go too wrong. Snag it !

 

[justme-]

I've got one of those (no name badge left on it) without a cord I've been waiting for an excuse to put a cord on. I'd actually like to see a return to low speed in drills - would be a good way to educate the populace about how to properly drill holes in things. You'd be surprised how many people in my work complain about the "crappy" drill bits we sell and are dumbfounded when I switch the drill from 3rd to 1st and drill through plate steel like nothing with it.

My father had an old B&D metal case 3/8 drill that we called "the arm breaker". It was on/off - no vari speed. Awesome drill - lasted over 30 years of regular use until the trigger switch broke and we couldn't find a replacement that would fit.

 

[ChevyEFI]

I will keep my non-clutched, part-metal, side-handled Milwaukee over that. But it looks cool.