Is this really what you guys do?

[penth2o]

I must be missing something here. I’m trying to figure out best way to insulate a 32X32X12 pole barn I just purchased.
I am reading all the posts on this site and must be missing or calculating wrong.

Most posts say lay 1 1/2 inch foam in between the girts. Seal the edges with can foam then frame out and put in fiberglass batts bringing it pretty much flush with the 6X6 posts.
I can skip the air barrier as I laid foam. I can skip the vapor barrier as I used backed batts. Then cover all that with whatever I want to finish the interior off with.
Adding up material for just ONE WALL equals $125 for foam. Whatever it costs for can foam to fill gaps. Then adding the fiberglass batts at $1,000 and I didn’t even figure cost of wood for framing and nails and screws.
So... for one wall it is 1,125 just for foam and fiber. Not to mention all I didn’t figure out as so far it is higher than a company coming in and spraying foam.
I was quoted for 4 walls 32x32x12 $3,200. The ceiling with 12 inches of blown at $1,200. So for $4,400 I could have all four walls sprayed and the ceiling blown.

Am I calculating wrong here with just one wall here at $1,125 without even figuring can foam, screws and nails and all the lumber to frame it out?

Thanks for the help.





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[kd3pc]

some of that may be needed or not, depending on your location and your desire to heat or cool efficiently ($$$)

32x32x12 is a good size building and as with many things, the larger you go, the more expensive things become.

I did my 24x24x8 with 2x4 walls for just over $200, DIY and second hand batts for the wall and blown in the ceiling

 

[58Yeoman]

I've got a 24x40x10, and I just put the 1 1/2" rigid syrofoam in between the girts, then covered with osb. The ceiling got 6" batts and covered with osb. I have a BigMaxx 75k heater that does a fine job of keeping me warm.

 

[nadogail]

I must be missing something here. I’m trying to figure out best way to insulate a 32X32X12 pole barn I just purchased.
I am reading all the posts on this site and must be missing or calculating wrong.

Most posts say lay 1 1/2 inch foam in between the girts. Seal the edges with can foam then frame out and put in fiberglass batts bringing it pretty much flush with the 6X6 posts.
I can skip the air barrier as I laid foam. I can skip the vapor barrier as I used backed batts. Then cover all that with whatever I want to finish the interior off with.
Adding up material for just ONE WALL equals $125 for foam. Whatever it costs for can foam to fill gaps. Then adding the fiberglass batts at $1,000 and I didn’t even figure cost of wood for framing and nails and screws.
So... for one wall it is 1,125 just for foam and fiber. Not to mention all I didn’t figure out as so far it is higher than a company coming in and spraying foam.
I was quoted for 4 walls 32x32x12 $3,200. The ceiling with 12 inches of blown at $1,200. So for $4,400 I could have all four walls sprayed and the ceiling blown.

Am I calculating wrong here with just one wall here at $1,125 without even figuring can foam, screws and nails and all the lumber to frame it out?

Thanks for the help.

.

Any definitive answer I, or anyone else, can give will depend on where you are, what you are planning to do, and how much you are willing to spend.

Please help us out by filling in those blanks.

 

[Fordman7795]

I don’t remember the exact numbers but I did my 30x56 with styrofoam/batts for about $2000 vs $10000 for spray in

 

[bullnerd]

I used blanket insulation specifically made for pole barns.

No extra framing. Well no stud bays, I added 16' 2x4s for the metal liner.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=169738

 

[penth2o]

Nadognail.
I’m in Northern Michigan. Snow country. Will be restoring vintage cars.
Trying to figure out just what it will cost overall.
I have to replace a double sliding door as I will never be able to get this thing sealed for any kind of heat.
Keep em coming with yer ideas folks. I’m open and all ears.
Thank you.

 

[amalik]

Nadognail.
I’m in Northern Michigan. Snow country. Will be restoring vintage cars.
Trying to figure out just what it will cost overall.
I have to replace a double sliding door as I will never be able to get this thing sealed for any kind of heat.
Keep em coming with yer ideas folks. I’m open and all ears.
Thank you.

Do you restore them before or after they rust out from that MI salt?

 

[PugetDude]

Jump on the foam quote before the guy figures out he blew the estimate...sounds really cheap.

 

[Bob2112]

I got my insulation batts from here: https://www.lthsteelstructures.com/insulation , but there may be cheaper places. Interestingly, all the rolls were 5 FEET longer than what they are listed as on the website, so I ended up have two full rolls left over that I just sold for $200.

But anyway, using their prices, (unfaced rolls) you could cover a 12' tall, wall that is 32' long for about $400. The plastic is pretty cheap if you want a vapor barrier, I think i spent about $100 on my whole 30x40x11 building.

 

[purplezr2]

Jump on the foam quote before the guy figures out he blew the estimate...sounds really cheap.

Depends how many inches is getting sprayed.

Building is 1536 sq feet of wall assuming no doors or windows. At 2 inches it should cost about 2700 or less for 3 inches it should be around 4000. Assuming 90 cents a square foot as that is what I paid locally.

 

[PugetDude]

Depends how many inches is getting sprayed.

Building is 1536 sq feet of wall assuming no doors or windows. At 2 inches it should cost about 2700 or less for 3 inches it should be around 4000. Assuming 90 cents a square foot as that is what I paid locally.

MUCH higher than that here.

 

[Blazinzuk]

I don't remember my exact costs. My blue board added about 1500 bucks to my overall insulation cost. That includes the great stuff foam to fill in the gaps. I'm putting R49 in my attic. Temps here in the winter often reach -10. With extremes of -30 not uncommon. Plus winter lasts from November to April. So insulation was a top priority for me

 

[Firebrick43]

how are you getting 1000$ for batts for ONE wall? 32x12=384 square feet.

Menards has r19 face batts https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/insulation/insulation-rolls-batts/guardian-r-19-kraft-faced-fiberglass-insulation-batt-15-x-93-87-2-sq-ft/510515/p-1444437011216-c-5780.htm?tid=-8598889216137030819&ipos=7

Coverage of 87 square feet per bag at 34$

34 divided by 87= .39 cents a square foot

.39 x 384 = 149.76

150 + 125 equals $275 per wall without framing or incedentals.

How are you getting 1125?

 

[matt_i]

Nadognail.
I’m in Northern Michigan. Snow country. Will be restoring vintage cars.
Trying to figure out just what it will cost overall.
I have to replace a double sliding door as I will never be able to get this thing sealed for any kind of heat.
Keep em coming with yer ideas folks. I’m open and all ears.
Thank you.

Based on this I would go for the extra for sprayed foam. My guess is you will be spending the long winters doing this and heating it constantly. The sprayed foam has the benefit of air-sealing everything. As far as a door, I am very happy with Haas 2" thick roll up doors.

 

[astroracer]

how are you getting 1000$ for batts for ONE wall? 32x12=384 square feet.

Menards has r19 face batts https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/insulation/insulation-rolls-batts/guardian-r-19-kraft-faced-fiberglass-insulation-batt-15-x-93-87-2-sq-ft/510515/p-1444437011216-c-5780.htm?tid=-8598889216137030819&ipos=7

Coverage of 87 square feet per bag at 34$

34 divided by 87= .39 cents a square foot

.39 x 384 = 149.76

150 + 125 equals $275 per wall without framing or incedentals.

How are you getting 1125?

That was my thoughts exactly and you did the math for me! Thanks! I think the OP needs to look at his prices again. Something isn't jiving on the batt prices... The quote was probably for all 4 walls...
Mark

 

[stm317]

What thickness of spray foam? Open cell or closed cell? How will you attach your wall material? Do you want to be able to hang anything on your walls?

The advantages for the method most suggest (1.5" rigid foam, + framing/R19 batts) are that it gives a total R value somewhere around R29 for the walls, and also provides support/options for hanging/mounting things to the walls. Getting equal R value from closed cell spray foam will be cost prohibitive, and you'd have fewer options when it comes to mounting things to the wall. Lower R value might be possible with spray foam for less money, but you're not really comparing apples to apples at that point.

Closed cell foam is usually around $1/board ft. To get close to R29 in the walls you'd need 4-5 inches thick. So, your cost would likely be around $4-5/sqft of wall space. That's way, way higher than your quote, so something isn't equal. Your quote is either for inferior product, a lower R value, or both.

 

[stm317]

Also, if you seal the seams of the foam, and also use faced fiberglass batts, you'll have 2 vapor barriers which is a no-no as moisture can get trapped within your walls. Do one or the other. With you being in MI, I'd tend to try and keep the vapor barrier or the inside, and leave the foam seams unsealed. So, you can probably leave the spray foam cans off of the budget too.

 

[cupcakemike]

I just did exactly what you are planning for my 30x40x10 shop, so my costs should be similar to yours.

I purchased my materials from home depot and menards because that's what I had easily available.

My walls are are a true 6x6, with 2" rigid foam, then studded out 2x4 walls on 16" centers with r15 batt insulation; I am nearly r30 in the walls. The blown in insulation is r50. The wall covering could be done much cheaper, I used rigid plastic panels for the bottom 4 ft, then 2 ft of slatwall, then the remaining 4 ft is cedar pickets laid like shiplap, cause they were on sale. Ceiling is liner panel. If you did it all in OSB or drywall you could probably shave off a few hundred bucks. Obviously you need to add the cost of screws/nails, taxes, whatever but you should still be less than 4 grand to go from bare interior to insulated and finished.

Quantity Cost Total
Wall foam insulation 40 13.37 534.8
Batt insulation 26 8.74 227.24
Ceiling insulation 90 4.54 408.60
Cedar siding 170 2.89 491.3
slatwall 6 35 210
plastic panel 12 19.98 239.76
Ceiling panel 1330 0.64 851.2
framing 550.00
Total 3500.00

 

[NUTTSGT]

That was my thoughts exactly and you did the math for me! Thanks! I think the OP needs to look at his prices again. Something isn't jiving on the batt prices... The quote was probably for all 4 walls...
Mark

Put me in the same boat. I saw this the other day but didn't crunch any numbers. Since the OP hasn't responded back, I'm wondering if he went 32x32 on wall size in error. . . an easy mistake.


Looking on CL can yield some cheap suppliers for the rigid foam rather than a big box store.

I'd also suggest going with rolls of fiberglass rather the pre-cut batts. It's generally cheaper and will give you less seams in the walls if it's not a standard size.

 

[575cat]

Purplezr2 Where in MN are you I just put up a 1500 + square ft building I have only got 1 quote so far for 8k just for walls .

 

[penth2o]

Thanks guys. Definitely a mistake in calculating prices. It comes out to $485 per wall with ridgid foam, fiber batts and 2x4 studding. Not including anything else.

 

[CombatNinja]

Just want to chime in here. OP, as stated your math is waaaaay off on the cost of fiberglass batts. Speaking of fiberglass batts, you do realize that faced batts are not a vapor barrier, but rather a vapor retarder. It is a little nitpicky but an important distinction. If you are using rigid foam air sealed around the edges, do not use faced batts. This puts a vapor retarder on both sides which you do not want. If the inside of the wall ever gets wet somehow it will never dry that way. As mentioned, your quote for the spray foam is very low and I would clarify that. You are certainly not going to get closed cell foam at that price. Finally, all this talk about the walls has me wondering what you are doing with the ceiling, which is vastly more important to the thermal envelope than the walls. How are you insulating the ceiling?

 

[like2wheel]

I think all the people questioning his quote for spray foam are missing that he is using foam board. Need to re-read the 1st post.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I think all the people questioning his quote for spray foam are missing that he is using foam board. Need to re-read the 1st post.

From the OP's first post.

So... for one wall it is 1,125 just for foam and fiber. Not to mention all I didn’t figure out as so far it is higher than a company coming in and spraying foam.
I was quoted for 4 walls 32x32x12 $3,200. The ceiling with 12 inches of blown at $1,200. So for $4,400 I could have all four walls sprayed and the ceiling blown.

 

[like2wheel]

From the OP's first post.

Apparently I need to read the whole post.

Sorry for the confusion

 

[NUTTSGT]

Apparently I need to read the whole post.

Sorry for the confusion

I think him mentioning foam board, canned foam and then about a quote for spray foam could easily trip somebody up. No big deal.

 

[Marctrees]

Pre cut to length and wide custom width Fiberglass white plastic faced batts are best sourced from Bay Insulation.

Multiple locations across USA.

"6" batts any width w heavy plastic scrim reinforced laminate is approx 47 cents/ sq ft.

The facing is usually very low perm.. acts as vapor barrier..

BUT also available "Perforated" to be HIGH perm NON vapor barrier..

Usually used in Hot / Humid climates.

Marc

 

[RoyBell]

I would check to see if your local gas/electric company offer rebates for insulating buildings. I had my whole (home) attic blown and air sealed last winter because it was cheaper to hire someone to do it (they then got the rebates) than for me to insulate myself. Something to look into.