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Is this wall structural?

Fixr

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This wall that “hides” the water heater in the garage.

I need to remove it so the new heat pump water heater can go there (needs the space).

No structural engineer here…but does this look safe to chop down so I can use the space to enlarge the water heater platform?

I assume it’s NOT structural and just for visual appeal? Want to double check with you all…
If it all clear, would you recommend I just cut the 2x4’s flush with the platform and ceiling and patch the drywall? For the platform I will add some vertical braces as needed for the edge.

thanks!
Going back to the first post and ignoring everything since:

Paying a contractor or framer $100 bucks or even a 12 pack to look at it and advise you probably would have been less time consuming and frustrating than suffering through this thread.
 
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Codyboy

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Going back to the first post and ignoring everything since:

Paying a contractor or framer $100 bucks or even a 12 pack to look at it and advise you probably would have been less time consuming and frustrating than suffering through this thread.
Lol

A 100 bucks? This is 2025 not 1985.

A contractor won't even start his clapped out 1999 power stroke flat handle F250 for less than a 1000 bucks nowadays.

Also by "asking and doing " is how people learn.
 

Fixr

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Lol

A 100 bucks? This is 2025 not 1985.

A contractor won't even start his clapped out 1999 power stroke flat handle F250 for less than a 1000 bucks nowadays.

Also by "asking and doing " is how people learn.
That's why I mentioned a framer. Plenty of them will still stop by if they are in the neighborhood and laugh at you because you live in a rectangular house with trusses and no interior load-bearing walls for a 12 pack to drink that evening. Pretty decent tip for 5 minutes time.
 

TRWham

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Almost certainly not structural, however, code (IRC M1307.3.1) does require protection from impact for a water heater in a garage (e.g. a wall or bollards). This wall likely was provided for that reason, though I would question its effectiveness given the incomplete framing (single top plate and no tie to the structure at the top).
 

Old Man Roger

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Almost certainly not structural, however, code (IRC M1307.3.1) does require protection from impact for a water heater in a garage (e.g. a wall or bollards). This wall likely was provided for that reason, though I would question its effectiveness given the incomplete framing (single top plate and no tie to the structure at the top).
Ahh. No such code in the parts of Florida I’ve lived in, never had a wall in front of any of my water heaters.
 
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ps2cho

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Almost certainly not structural, however, code (IRC M1307.3.1) does require protection from impact for a water heater in a garage (e.g. a wall or bollards). This wall likely was provided for that reason, though I would question its effectiveness given the incomplete framing (single top plate and no tie to the structure at the top).

That seems plausible then. But reading that code it also mentions a raised platform is a form of barrier so wonder if thats good enough?
Ultimately I could just move the wall over if needed...
 
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larry4406

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If gas water heater I think it needs to be 18” up off the floor.

Only ever had electric.
Looks like any water heating device that can be deemed an ignition hazard needs to be raised 18”.

 

manwithtools

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Looks like any water heating device that can be deemed an ignition hazard needs to be raised 18”.
That's correct and there are certain models of gas water heaters that are rated for installation without being raised. I went through this with the home inspector on my last home sale. Bradford White Defender Safety System heaters are one such example, that's what we had. I had to teach the home inspector about those units.

Defender Safety System
 
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ps2cho

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For it to avoid impact from an automobile it has to be above bumper height
I guess who decides what height a bumper is?

The platform is 19" tall, plus 3" on the garage curb so its 22" tall total. I'd say for Miata that is plenty of protection RIGHT?

The only other thing I can think of is if the HOA made a rule on it, I will reach out and double check although I checked all the guidelines and it only discusses exterior modifications.

To be clear -- existing is electric, have no gas at the house here.
 
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ps2cho

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Calling the hoa to ask about doing stuff inside your house is an absolutely wild idea
except when you sell these things come up and it ends up being a pain in the *** to deal with trying to close.

If I need to move the wall, I'll just move the wall and be done with it.
 

TRWham

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Ahh. No such code in the parts of Florida I’ve lived in, never had a wall in front of any of my water heaters.
It's in the International Residential Code, which is commonly the basis for local and state codes in the US. For example, Georgia is on the 2018 IRC with a couple of pages of state amendments from 2024. Florida is currently based on IRC 2021 which does include the protection requirement I quoted above.
 
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Old Man Roger

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It's in the International Residential Code, which is commonly the basis for local and state codes in the US. For example, Georgia is on the 2018 IRC with a couple of pages of state amendments from 2024. Florida is currently based on IRC 2021 which does include the protection requirement I quoted above.

I can‘t remember ever seeing a wall in front of a water heater. I‘ve seen a few in closets, but nothing like what the OP has.
 

Codyboy

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I guess who decides what height a bumper is?

The platform is 19" tall, plus 3" on the garage curb so its 22" tall total. I'd say for Miata that is plenty of protection RIGHT?

The only other thing I can think of is if the HOA made a rule on it, I will reach out and double check although I checked all the guidelines and it only discusses exterior modifications.

To be clear -- existing is electric, have no gas at the house here.
Every morning I wake up, I think to myself " in what ways can I avoid calling the 'man' into my business"
 

Codyboy

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For what it's worth, the house i grew up in built in 1972 had the gas hot water heater on a platform in the garage approximately 20 to 24 inches high.
 
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ps2cho

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I can‘t remember ever seeing a wall in front of a water heater. I‘ve seen a few in closets, but nothing like what the OP has.

Yes its a real pain, even 6 years ago when I had it replaced under home warranty they struggled to find one that would fit because its such a small enclosure. Problem to be solved shortly...
 

Old Man Roger

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Yes its a real pain, even 6 years ago when I had it replaced under home warranty they struggled to find one that would fit because its such a small enclosure. Problem to be solved shortly...
I had one in a closet under the air handler. Ya, hot and cold in the same closet. The intake for the ac drew the air right over the water heater, not enough room to even insulate the heater.
 

whateg01

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except when you sell these things come up and it ends up being a pain in the *** to deal with trying to close.

If I need to move the wall, I'll just move the wall and be done with it.
HOA...

To each their own.
To each their own.
To each their own.
To each their own.
To each their own.
To each their own.
...
 
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ps2cho

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Well the HOA confirmed there is nothing interior in terms of rules and to go ahead...
So I guess the only thing is just general code -- you all think just the platform itself is sufficient as a "barrier"?
 
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ps2cho

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Did you ask them?

😂
Yes I did, my HOA has never shown any major red flags for something like this, they were more than reasonable on a shed project plan I submitted…I know the general perception though.
 

mike93lx

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Yes I did, my HOA has never shown any major red flags for something like this, they were more than reasonable on a shed project plan I submitted…I know the general perception though.
I meant on the question about a platform being sufficient
 

larry4406

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Well the HOA confirmed there is nothing interior in terms of rules and to go ahead...
So I guess the only thing is just general code -- you all think just the platform itself is sufficient as a "barrier"?
This thread has been an interesting read - protection from vehicle damage as well as ignition sources.

Found this Code citation regarding protection from vehicle damage.
1754997411178.png

Regarding the ignition source concern, I am thinking it will depend on the OP's exact brand of heat pump water heater and suggest to read its manual and/or contact the manufacturer for their recommendations. Note the bolded sentence.

Many electric water heater thermostats have enclosed contacts, but they are not sealed gas tight. Therefore, if an electric water heater having a thermostat is located less than 18 inches (457 mm) from the bottom of the unit, both this section and Section M1307.3 require that the unit be elevated so the ignition source (thermostat) is at least 18 inches (457 mm) above the garage floor. Electric water heaters having all switching controls located above 18 inches (457 mm) from the bottom of the water heater are not required to be elevated.
 
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ps2cho

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This thread has been an interesting read - protection from vehicle damage as well as ignition sources.

Found this Code citation regarding protection from vehicle damage.
1754997411178.png

Regarding the ignition source concern, I am thinking it will depend on the OP's exact brand of heat pump water heater and suggest to read its manual and/or contact the manufacturer for their recommendations. Note the bolded sentence.
Many electric water heater thermostats have enclosed contacts, but they are not sealed gas tight. Therefore, if an electric water heater having a thermostat is located less than 18 inches (457 mm) from the bottom of the unit, both this section and Section M1307.3 require that the unit be elevated so the ignition source (thermostat) is at least 18 inches (457 mm) above the garage floor. Electric water heaters having all switching controls located above 18 inches (457 mm) from the bottom of the water heater are not required to be elevated.
I am not questioning if I need it raised - it already is and I am not changing that. I just need to see if the platform counts as a permanent barrier or not?
 

TRWham

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I am not questioning if I need it raised - it already is and I am not changing that. I just need to see if the platform counts as a permanent barrier or not?
None of us can say with certainty what would be accepted in your location. As is common among building codes, the IRC just says use an "approved" method, then doesn't really say what is approved. If you do not want a wall, maybe just install a bollard at the corner and one or two along the edge(s) of the platform and go on down the road. The last project we did with this situation we installed bollards and that was accepted.

Please note there is electrical in that wall that will need to be relocated if you do not reinstall a wall.
 

larry4406

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I am not questioning if I need it raised - it already is and I am not changing that. I just need to see if the platform counts as a permanent barrier or not?
I would wager no it does not count.

Wheel chock block anchored to floor or a bollard if you look at the examples cited...

You could always call your AHJ if you are so inclined to get their take since they approved your current installation.....
 

KansasArt

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Still waiting on someone to suggest calling a structural engineer, architect, and ahj to remove 2’ of wall.
 

Bunsen Honeydew

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Simple way, just reinstall the wall leaving room for the new tank, if inspector complains. Apparently the old wall was a sufficient barrier. Possibly a pony wall would be sufficient.
 

no704

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Had a real **** napoleon complex code inspector on a shop I set up years ago! Almost made us put transformers on 18” risers, until I convinced him there was never any fuel in the vehicles being worked on. (There was). He made my electrician remove the ground bonds from the NG lines. (Put them back as soon as we got a stamp).
 
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ps2cho

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Simple way, just reinstall the wall leaving room for the new tank, if inspector complains. Apparently the old wall was a sufficient barrier. Possibly a pony wall would be sufficient.
After much consideration I think this is the best approach to avoid issues - just move the wall and be done with it. I considered bollards etc but it’s just even less space conscious…

With that said, what’s the best strategy to move the wall? pry out all the framing nails with a cats paw or similar and move it as one existing unit?

I also may not need to deal with the rewiring on the door bell either. If the excess wire is enough it’ll just work, if not I can move it up on the same wall I couldn’t care if it’s up higher…
 

mm08822

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After much consideration I think this is the best approach to avoid issues - just move the wall and be done with it. I considered bollards etc but it’s just even less space conscious…

With that said, what’s the best strategy to move the wall? pry out all the framing nails with a cats paw or similar and move it as one existing unit?

I also may not need to deal with the rewiring on the door bell either. If the excess wire is enough it’ll just work, if not I can move it up on the same wall I couldn’t care if it’s up higher…
If you have a sawzall, cut the floor anchors and nails attaching into the rear(?) wall.

Maybe you can save one side of drywall. At least one side has to be open to nail it back in properly. Make sure the moved wall ties into existing framing or added nailers of the rear wall.
 
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