ndnchf
Well-known member
For those wisg to make their own cables, EBT has some of the best pure copper welding cable and prices around. https://www.electronbeam.com/
Jumper cables
- Thread starter Bagherra
- Start date
American Locomotive
Well-known member
For small motors with a battery that still some charge and if you let the running vehicle charge the dead vehicle for a few minutes - sure it will work fine. But when you want to jump start a big V8 or diesel without waiting - you need heavy duty cables.
It has everything to do with thickness of the cable.
20 feet of 6 AWG wire at 250A of current will drop 3.95 volts. Your average car battery drops to 11 volts while cranking, meaning those cables would only be able to supply 7 volts to the starter. Not exactly stellar.
My 20 ft 2 AWG cables on the other hand would only have a 1.5 volt drop with the same load. I've started V8 engines without any battery at all using just these cables.
If you don't mind waiting 5-10 minutes for the running vehicle to charge the dead vehicle's battery, smaller cables are fine. If you're in a rush or trying to get a big diesel going - they're not going to be ideal.
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bmwpowere36m3
Well-known member
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- Nov 8, 2012
- Messages
- 1,125
I made a set of 20' jumpers from 2 AWG welding cable, parrot clamps and terminals. Very nice, heavy-duty, and total overkill. The welding cable was $70, clamps $50 and another $20 for terminals and heat shrink... so ~$140.
Most of time, I get by with a NOCO GB70... but I wanted a nice pair of jumpers to have.
Most of time, I get by with a NOCO GB70... but I wanted a nice pair of jumpers to have.
Then you are ok with 2 "gauge" CCA cable equivalent to 6 AWG copper. And note the 350 amp capacity---most people would be able to start a normal car with that if the battery is not completely dead.
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kythri
Well-known member
My multiple sets of jumper cables (a set in each vehicle) must all be defective.
20' long, 4 gauge CCA, and they've jumped everything I've used them for, from big diesel trucks to small commuters.
20' long, 4 gauge CCA, and they've jumped everything I've used them for, from big diesel trucks to small commuters.
American Locomotive
Well-known member
Those do not appear to be the same cables I have. Mine are very old. It's possible mine are indeed CCA, but they're still very heavy gauge and work well.
Also, 2 gauge aluminum is not equivalent to 6 AWG copper in terms of voltage drop - it's equivalent to 4 gauge copper. So I'll amend my statement to be "Anything under 4 gauge copper is useless"
Most people I've seen (if they have jumper cables) have the cheap and nasty 8 or 10 gauge $15 jobs from WalMart. They're utterly hopeless for jump-starting anything.
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mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Again, my cheap ones work great and have for years
Everybody should just just own the cheapest cables money can buy.... high quality jumper cables are a complete waste of money and are absolutely never needed in any situation. Period. The cheapest and thinnest aluminum cable with the weakest clamps anywhere on the market will do the EXACT same job as 4/0 aught, 100% copper welding cable, without exception. Anyone who buys anything but, is a complete fool.
kythri
Well-known member
Nobody has said that.
At worst, people (including me) are refuting the statements that HAVE been made, saying that CCA cables are worthless and don't work, and any cable gauge under 2 is worthless and doesn't work.
Chill out.
I noted earlier that "Gauge" is not the same as AWG, and that it is something propagated by the Asian imports. I have personally counted the stands, measured their diameters, and calculated the circular mils of various Asian power cables. With few exceptions---and strictly in my own experience---Asian-sourced "Gauge" is roughly 2 wire sizes smaller than AWG. So when you factor in aluminum vs copper, and "Gauge" vs AWG, you can figure a total of 4 wire sizes when buying Asian CCA vs AWG copper cable as far as voltage drop.
And when some 250' spools are really only 225' (and the dealers know it), it gets maddening but that's a different story entirely....
So its okay for you and others to keep posting about "your side" of things, but when I post, I'm told to Chill out. El Oh El.
Have you ever heard of sarcasm?
Lighten up.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Time to unsubscribe from this one
kythri
Well-known member
Really? bald-faced Lie? I have given my opinion, nothing else. How can that be a lie? The original poster asked for suggestions on jumper cables and I gave My opinion. That it all.
I have been in the business of jump starting cars, trucks, semi trucks, and heavy machinery for 29 years. I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that I have jump started more vehicles than anyone else posting in this thread by a factor of at least 100. If I had to guess, I would say that I have jump started at least 5-8000 vehicles and machinery over the last 29 years. How many vehicles have you jump started in 29 years?
Everything I have posted in this thread has been my opinion.... JUST LIKE YOU POSTED YOUR OPINION but somehow my opinion is false, according to you.
I can tell you FOR A FACT, that I have easily jump started hundreds of cars with my JNC660 where the customer has asked why they couldn't get the car started themselves, with their cables. They go through the long story of how they have tried for hours or days and could get their car started.... then I show up with quality equipment and it starts immediately.
There is ABSOLUTELY a difference between aluminum and copper, OR SHOULD I SAY, garbage and quality cables. I can tell the difference immediately, and so can the equipment you're trying to jump start.
Telling me to "grow up" tells me a lot about you.
Ramper
Well-known member
I was with my children a few winters ago and had to use a "better" set of jumper cables to help two strangers jump start their car. As you said they probably could have waited, but the kids in the cars were NOT HAPPY. I brought over my cables and with the same two cars it started right up. I got back in my truck and told my kids "Life is TOO SHORT for cheap jumper cables". I have since "restored" many old sets I pick up on CL or auctions and given to family. My goal is to outfit my family and then carry extra sets in my truck and GIVE them to those I help.
kythri
Well-known member
These would be the lies I'm referring to. Strawmen are still lies.
But, let me guess, you never posted this? Someone hacked your account?
Your rage at people not accepting your experience as gospel when their experience contradicts your blanket claims is why, again, I say: Grow up.
No, I absolutely DID post that.... And ANYBODY in their right mind knows that I was trying to be funny and sarcastic at the same time in the post. NOBODY (except you) would take that post seriously. Did you honestly think I was being serious in that post? LOL
Hey, you're the one who attacked me first because you didn't agree my earlier posts. (opinions)
You should follow your own advise.
LB-1911
ALLIANCE MEMBER
^
Passing along for info -
pdf 20 pg
https://store.polarwire.com/content/booster-cable.pdf
Polar Wire Products
Lucid Moments
Well-known member
Why didn't you just quote your previous post in this thread since it was the exact same.
And just like before you are kind of right, but mostly wrong. Diameter of the cable has everything to do with the ability of the cable to carry a sufficient electrical load to start the car quickly which is generally the goal with jumper cables. Otherwise just hook up a 2 amp charger and wait a day or two for the battery to charge.
I am not one of these that says everything less than 2 gauge is useless, or that says that cca is useless, but your stance is equally as incorrect as theirs.
wilkesmech10
Member
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2014
- Messages
- 5
Just to add fuel to the fire and ridiculousness... The Snap-On EEJP600V24 is the best jump box money can buy. As an AG Technician this thing is invaluable on large farm equipment, oh and it works on cars too.
FigureItOut
Well-known member
Here's a tip if you do only have 4AWG or 6AWG cables, particularly if they're 20' or longer, and are trying to jump start a bigger engine. If it's not working well due to resistance, try to get the vehicles as close together as possible so that the current doesn't have as far to travel, that will help minimize voltage drop. It works with undersized extension cords too, just coil it up so it's shorter.
WittHay
Well-known member
Just glanced over this thread and know you are kidding. The guys that have jumper cables in their trucks for boosting other things use 2 AWG copper about 20 feet long. They dont bother with cheap jumper cables.
We live in the mildest climate in Canada and use 1 gauge cables. To get some engines started have to hook up 2 diesel pickups with 2 sets of 1 gauge cables. if i lived in a colder climate probably would buy 1/0 jumpers
For passenger vehicles, my theory is why bother with cables. New batteries and a jump pack for emergencies or helping other people
Well it’s not to say they won’t work if they’re cheap. They just might not be as good. For a long time I didn’t have any cables whatsoever when I was in college. There was this local liquidation junk store that sporadically got large quantities of merchandise with no rhyme or reason so sometime around 1999 they got a massive quantity of these 6 gauge “all copper” Carol jumper cables from the 1980s. I think they wanted $2 for them so I grabbed a set and threw them in the trunk. Jump stared many vehicles with them (more than I ever saved myself), still have them. Were they and are they not great? Yeah, but they did usually did the job when called upon.
WittHay
Well-known member
Anything will work, some 10 gauge wire and a couple of pairs of Vise-Grips will get most small cars started. It might take a while though
if you are carrying jumper cables in a truck, it is most likely to help someone or to get other vehicles started. You want to do that as fast as possible. 20 feet seems to be the right length and 2 gauge copper is flexible and stores small enough. If the clamps are in the 400 to 600 range should work for most situations. In my opinion for occasional use the clamps should be insulated for safety, especially at night.
The ones in the first 2 pictures are 800 amp,the last 500 amp. The first is 1 gauge imported and the middle is 1/0 gauge made in Canada. Something whats like in the last picture is a happy medium between super duty and cheap
if you are carrying jumper cables in a truck, it is most likely to help someone or to get other vehicles started. You want to do that as fast as possible. 20 feet seems to be the right length and 2 gauge copper is flexible and stores small enough. If the clamps are in the 400 to 600 range should work for most situations. In my opinion for occasional use the clamps should be insulated for safety, especially at night.
The ones in the first 2 pictures are 800 amp,the last 500 amp. The first is 1 gauge imported and the middle is 1/0 gauge made in Canada. Something whats like in the last picture is a happy medium between super duty and cheap
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mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Even better then that.... Hold the center of the cable as high as you can. When the elections come down the "ramp", they will accelerate and hit the bad battery harder, starting the engine easier. I know, seems counter productive since they have to go up the ramp first, but the coriolis effect makes it effective.
pelletman
Well-known member
another vote for JNC660, I have a NOCO lithium and it works sometimes but if I want to be sure I grab the JNC. Haven't used the cables I have laying around in years. So inconvenient
Boneyard51
Active member
On my shop truck I had a box on front with twenty ft cables, ought welding cables with the reall strong clamps you used to be able to get, made it USA. I connected the cables to my shop trucks battery with a starter relay wired it and a switch in the grill. I would open the box, hook up the cables to the dead car , dead. Then turn on the switch, I could always tell if the clamps were making contact as I could hear a change in my shop trucks sound. Never failed on me and I jumped hundreds of vehicles!
Bones
Bones
Some knucklehead is going to Google "How to jump start a car" and land on this post...
Many years ago my neighbor told me to make sure there were no knots or kinks in the cables that could limit current flow. That’s a lesson I never forgot.
Sweetcorn
Well-known member
Personally, I gave up on jumper cables many years ago and have just used jump packs the few times I've needed them.
I hate having to rely on other people, especially strangers. A jump pack is just so convenient.