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Just ordered my RAPIDAIR system WHOOHOO!

Notgrownup

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Merry Christmas to me... Just ordered the 1/2" Rapid air system from Northern Tool... Will pick it up at the Raleigh NC store. I ordered an extra outlet and some extra 90 degree fittings...I want to get it in the wall before I insulate and add my either OSB or Drywall walls. I chose the 1/2" for 3 drops and will have a reel right next to the Compressor with a 25' hose. I will buy the regulators and such later when all is wired and boarded up...
 
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8man

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I would appreciate updates on the installation and how you like it. I'm building my shop next year and am considering going with this system. Thanks in advance.
 
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Notgrownup

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I was looking at the one from lowes but the one from Rapid air seems to get much better reviews.... My shop is 24x24 so 2 outlets on my wall where my workbench will be and 1 on the back wall towards the oposit corner will be sufficient... With a 25' reel at the compressor I can reach anything in there anyway so it's a bit overkill but what the heck... It's Christmas...and I want to do it right the first time...LOL...See attached layout but really, not to scale or that Purdy...You get the idea...
 

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8man

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I understand the design layout, I did my design like you did yours, on notebook paper.

I did read on hear or in talking with the rapid air people that the system should be looped. I'm not sure why the loop, but have you heard anything about looping the main?

Thanks for the update.
 

Aquaticbob

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I understand the design layout, I did my design like you did yours, on notebook paper.

I did read on hear or in talking with the rapid air people that the system should be looped. I'm not sure why the loop, but have you heard anything about looping the main?

Thanks for the update.

All air systems perform better looped, however it isn't necessary. Especially in a small shop, you shouldn't have to worry about the pressure drop. I have a rapid air system, it's the ****. The copper I currently have in my new shop *****, and I have about 1000' of the aluminum and 5, 3 plug outlets ready to go. My shop is about 6000 sq ft in size, and I won't be looping the system
 

Jawn

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If you can, I'd go for looping it from outlet to outlet, instead of teeing off. It should give you greater flow to each outlet for high demand tools.

That said, if there's something that makes looping it difficult, it'll still work. Mine's more of an "H" shape, no loop. Seems to work well. I haven't measured for pressure drop though. The kit is super easy to install, included cutter works well and the fittings are stupid easy to connect. Just be warned, there's some kind of dye on that tubing that will get on everything it touches. Your hands will be downright smurfy after the install!
 

kriv4o

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From all the treads I read upon shop air I believe the common concept is the filter and regulator to be as close to the point of use/tool, as possible. I also have a 1/2'' kit in transit due to arrive next Friday.
My garage is 24'x24' but a quarter of it is walled in for my fish room(long story). I plan on having a 50' reel in the middle of the ceiling that has a regulator/filter/oiler right at the reel. The other outlet I plan on installing at my work bench for a spiral type of hose for a blow off gun. This would also have a regulator and filter on it without an oiler. Both feeds would run of the manifold that comes with the kit. I already have the reel mounted and prepped to be hard plumbed with the rapidair kit. That would leave me with an extra outlet kit(minus the 3/8'' PTC fitting) in case I decide on another drop somewhere in the garage.
 

pattenp

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When y'all say looped what do you mean? I am not sure I get it?

loopdrawing-flowrate.jpg
 

Moose364

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thanks Guys never even though about looping it back together. I have the rapidair Maxline setting in the Box waiting on the install
 
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Notgrownup

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Ok I get it..l i have 100 ' of hose, I might try to do that, I would have to do it in a odd pattern (caddy corner) but I might have enough pipe to do it,.....I will consider that,
So you say the pressure us more consistent and even on a looped system... Interesting .....never heard of this....Y'all some smart sumbitches....
Thanks Pattenp, your alright, no matter what I said about you earlier...Merry Christmas y'all ...
 

pattenp

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If you're having an air system just for convenience and using it for busting lug nuts and inflating tires and the such, I wouldn't worry too much about making it a loop.
 

Shadowdog500

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Congradulations!!

Can you do a thread on the install with pictures.

One of these years I'm going to do the same. For now I just have a line hooked up to the compressor.

Chris
 
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Notgrownup

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If you're having an air system just for convenience and using it for busting lug nuts and inflating tires and the such, I wouldn't worry too much about making it a loop.

Yep, convenience, small air tools on work bench, I will have a reel near the compressor for heAvy duty impacts and such
 

yeldogt

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It looks like an interesting system -- do they advise burring it with the compression fittings?

I have not priced out pipe or copper -- is this cheaper or just easier?
 
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Notgrownup

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It looks like an interesting system -- do they advise burring it with the compression fittings?

I have not priced out pipe or copper -- is this cheaper or just easier?

It seems easier ,cheaper??? Not sure, I debated PVC, black pipe, then copper but aways read something about this n that .What tipped me over to the rapidair Is that it is specifically made for the job and for $150.00 I think it will be about the same or cheaper...No threading, soldering, heavy maneuvering or odd chance it might blow up in your face.....
It looks pretty simple to do so we will see.
 
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Notgrownup

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thanks Guys never even though about looping it back together. I have the rapidair Maxline setting in the Box waiting on the install

The Maxline seems a bit beefier and at 3/4" should flow plenty, looks a little different to install the fittings but not that bad....Looks like the lines take the shape you make them into....Mine will be in the wall and ceiling so it will just get fastened to studs and rafters...
 

UpstateNY

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It seems easier ,cheaper??? Not sure, I debated PVC, black pipe, then copper but aways read something about this n that .What tipped me over to the rapidair Is that it is specifically made for the job and for $150.00 I think it will be about the same or cheaper...No threading, soldering, heavy maneuvering or odd chance it might blow up in your face.....
It looks pretty simple to do so we will see.

The only problem I had was leaking out of one of the aluminum blocks. If you have an air leak issue, that's where it'll be. The Tee and 90 elbows never leaked for me.
 
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Jawn

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Oh, FYI... there was a conflict between the instructions in the package and the instructions on the website. One says use teflon tape on threaded fittings, one clearly warns against it. I used the teflon tape because it's what I had. It's working fine so far (had it in for 6 months or a year).
 

ngonerogwu

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Evansville, IN
I have some leaks in mine, even with the Teflon tape. I've just taken it all down because I finally insulated and put up osb.

Anyone know if it's possible to buy this line by the foot somewhere? I have to move a couple drops, and I'll be short a few inches in 2 spots. Hate to buy another 100ft for a few feet.
 

sberry

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There is no real advantage in a loop with runs so short and demand so low. All it does is leave water laying around vs driving it down to a drain. The vision or view that we have "hi demand tools" is really false, we have the same tools that have been used for decades and unless one is using 1 inch impact on truck tires its a waste of effort.
 

afbrian13

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At work we have this system, in 2in piping, ran through our work stands. Each stand hooks together with flex lines. The pipes are all connected with the plastic fittings. By work stands, they are huge stands for working on a 747. Under wings, around the tail, etc. We have access to air fittings every 15-20ft for the entire wingspan. The stand on the end hooks to a line from the wall supplied from some very large output compressors.

My point? I can only imagine the garage version would be fantastic!
 

sberry

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The charts and that TP diagram really hurt more than help. Lots of these ideas are good and maybe even needed in industrial, commercial engineered systems with multiple users and gobs of connected equipment, much continuous, the list can go on. In thse garages its hard to beat a piece or 2 of steel sloped slight down to a drip leg with a filter/reg screwed on with a whip to a hose reel, add additional equipment by use of a T vs another reg if possible.
Easy and cheap to tailor if all it cost is a T and can be threaded on. People buy air then think they cant use it unless its connected to some big scheme. Might do some hiding if it was practical, saves a lot of hangers. Some blending may be in order.
As I mentioned, the reason I harp on this is I have done it about every wrong way as right and I even backtrack as well as add anymore.
I was sitting here contemplating another electric circuit in a house, if it was mine would want another outlet added to the garage. I could just about do it later kind of thing as easily if I need it but its kind of obvious its missing and I really can see it being used and avoid cord tripping.
 

sberry

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I missed a water hydrant in my build. It got put in a corner and should have went between 2 doors about 15 ft from the corner. It really was a pain and kept it from being utilized so I bit the bullet and piped a loop overhead and in the end really worked out well as I could build on the features after the fact.
1 pipe to the right spot beats 10 random. Its rare but I will still move a hydrant. I added 2 in the outdoor last year, it really let the hoses reach, had to dig 50 ft of ditch once and add a couple valves but let the hose work 360 degrees.
Air drops I have really fussed with to get right, not how many but how well. I really should get new connectors, some easy suckers. But I got the most with the least to keep as little on the floor as I can.
I recently had an engineer type look at that and must have noticed, the nature of the drops are very deliberate.
 

sberry

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At work we have this system, in 2in piping, ran through our work stands. Each stand hooks together with flex lines. The pipes are all connected with the plastic fittings. By work stands, they are huge stands for working on a 747. Under wings, around the tail, etc. We have access to air fittings every 15-20ft for the entire wingspan. The stand on the end hooks to a line from the wall supplied from some very large output compressors.

My point? I can only imagine the garage version would be fantastic!
That probably all makes sense and you can connect 2 inch easily. After tat the difficulty and cost goes up. I have been in plants with loop-s, it replaced a pipe that would have needed to be 3 inches or needed 2 runs from the same direction etc.
Some of these were long, hundreds of feet and a lot of demand, some it made sense to simply continue 2 inch.
Even in my own shop which would be extremely busy by DIY standards the air demand is pretty low. Frequency and volume are 2 different things. Demands on these circuits is similar to power tools on a 120 volt system and use of a circular saw. Fully loaded the demand is 75 to 80% of the capacity, not enough to start to really worry about pressure loss and efficiency to be much of a factor and then there is duty cycle.
If we are sandblasting it is taking 100% or more than the comp can make, we cannot worry about pressure drop to the rest of the system, none left, its a 1 man show and in general use there would only be minor losses if 2 users ever picked up a body tool for a minute at the same time. All under one small roof.
We got short runs, under 100 ft applying a 15A or CFM load down a 20A circuit and if we try to draw more than that will run out of air in a hurry.
 
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pattenp

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It seems easier ,cheaper??? Not sure, I debated PVC, black pipe, then copper but aways read something about this n that .What tipped me over to the rapidair Is that it is specifically made for the job and for $150.00 I think it will be about the same or cheaper...No threading, soldering, heavy maneuvering or odd chance it might blow up in your face.....
It looks pretty simple to do so we will see.

PVC should not even be in the debate. PVC for compressed air is not a good idea.
 

Toolfool

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If you're talking about the rapidair system with the sharkbite fittings, I'd hesitate to bury it inside the walls. The pipe doesn't want to give up it's rolled memory easily and if you force it straight the end that's inside the fitting can get "tweaked" due to the memory and eventually leak. My rapidair is exposed and has developed leaks in a couple of places. It required re-cutting the end of the pipe and moving the pipes into a more "flowing" pattern , where it wasn't fighting the rolled memory. This is even after I left the pipe unrolled on the shop floor for a few weeks.
 
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Notgrownup

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PVC should not even be in the debate. PVC for compressed air is not a good idea.

I know I see the "blow up in your face" comments all the time but I know people that have it installed for years and it's still working fine...
I was going to use copper, I see where some say not yo sweat solder it for air applications ...the rapidair seems to be the easiest to use... The only thing I might change is not putting it in the wall....the reason I say this is because I decided to use screwed on OSB instead of drywall...
 
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Ray-CA

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Just for aesthetics, I think that I'm going to run my Rapid-Aire lines in pvc pipe and use sweep elbows for the corners. But, I may just go ahead and attach the lines to the sheet-rock and not bother with the pvc.

Ray
 
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Notgrownup

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Just for aesthetics, I think that I'm going to run my Rapid-Aire lines in pvc pipe and use sweep elbows for the corners. But, I may just go ahead and attach the lines to the sheet-rock and not bother with the pvc.

Ray

I like that idea...specially at the joints???? I like that...
 

larry_g

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I plan on having a 50' reel in the middle of the ceiling that has a regulator/filter/oiler right at the reel. .

Any oilier should be mounted on the tool that needs it. If you mount an oiler before a hose reel the oil is going to coelese (sp?) on the hose and pool in the low spots. Then it is going to come out in a glob not the fine mist you want.

lg
no neat sig line
 

RickP

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...the rapidair seems to be the easiest to use... The only thing I might change is not putting it in the wall....the reason I say this is because I decided to use screwed on OSB instead of drywall...

I really like the RapidAir system - I just finished a run from my garage to the basement. I put the lines behind the drywall, but I kept all the fittings at the surface so they'd be accessible in case of a leak.

Here's a photo of the first elbow covered by plywood (painted white):
IMG_20141217_200842_zps2502f07b.jpg


Here's a photo of the second elbow buried in the the drywall at the ceiling (not covered by plywood yet):
IMG_20141217_201236_zpsd31b640a.jpg


The compressor location is still temporary - you can see the coil of extra RapidAir tubing, which will be cut to length when those shelves get moved out of the way.
 
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