Kellog Air compressor

[chaosracing]

Been looking for a while for a decent used air compressor. Found two on Craigslist. Went and looked at this one. Pictures looked decent, but when I got there, I saw it was painted. Asked the guy about it and what brand it was. He had no clue what brand, but said he repainted with spray bombs. I looked over it and everything looked good and the tank sounded solid. Then I found the tag. American Brake Shop Company Kellog Division. He wanted $500, but got him down to $350.

I took it to a car was to clean as much dirt and grease off of it. One I go it home, as I was trying to wrestle it off my truck, I heard water in the tank. He says he would tip it to drain it. There is no drain on the bottom (dont know what they were thinking) I tried to remove the two plugs, but I need to break out the torch to heat up and get some help.

The motor has been replaced, but everything else looks original. BTW.....tank is from 1951, pump has a cast date of 7-20-50 on it.
Now I am hoping I didnt buy a POS.

 

[chaosracing]

The pump is Model 321. Tank is rated for 200 psi.
If tank is ok, I am wondering if I take it to a good welder, if they could put a drain bung on the bottom for me.

Forgot to mention that once I was at home, I took a ball peen hammer and started tapping on the bottom while laying on its side. It sounds great. Then I took a few good swings with it and not one dent was put into the bottom.

 

[finn]

Probably has a tube inside the tank from the bottom to a high mount drain petcock or valve. Champion calls this a stand up drain (I think).

The air pressure in the tank forces the moisture at the bottom of the tank up the tube and out the valve.

Works pretty well on my old Champion compressor.
The theory is that someone is more likely to flip the drain lever regularly if they don't have to crawl on the ground to reach the petcock.

An auto drain would be the next level, I guess.

 

[RECox286]

Let the air drain from the system, then remove the drain valve.

You will find a long rubber hose attached that goes to the bottom

of the reservoir. It's built that way on purpose; to make it easier

for you to get to the drain. If the rubber hose isn't there, it is more

than likely old enough that it rotted off the fitting. I replaced mine

with clear poly tubing and put a small weight on the far end to keep

it on the bottom. It works very satisfactory and is easy to use.

My Kellog (American Brake) came off the curb. It had been a part of

my local government's auto maintenance shop since the early 50's

then given to one of the mechanics when the garage was updated.

The compressor I have needs a rebuild, but it still works well enough

for me to just keep using it as is. Parts are still available for the 321

and at a reasonable cost. Kellog is definitely one of the better machines

out there, and I think you did well. If you haven't looked at the valves

then you should, and if the disks haven't been turned over, you can do

that yourself (at no cost) and extend the working life of the machine

until you find something newer, bigger, or in better shape if the desire

arises. Oh, yeah...If you can't save the head gasket, make one from

one of the stiff rolls of grey gasket material that most LAPS stock.

That is what I did with no problems. Torqued the head bolts to 75 inch lbs.


I knew there would be other American Brake air compressors show up if I

waited long enough. Good luck with yours.

Uncle Bob

 

[chaosracing]

Thanks guys. I was kinda thinking that, but when I removed the drain valve (you can see it in first pic removed) there was nothing there. I have tried to remove the plugs/adapters but they are stuck in real good. Even had a cheater bar on the pipe wrench. Tomorrow (actually today now) if I have time I will try heating with a torch, but I might need to get some help. If not tomorrow, might have to wait till after I get done cleaning up the white stuff mother nature is gracing us with Saturday.

I also found that the oil seal on the back side of the pump is shot. After a little cleaning and then some searching, I found a replacement oil seal and ordered it. I had planned on changing the oil anyway.

I was able to find rebuild kits for this pump, but might hold off for now. Some cost almost as much as what I paid for the whole unit. I want to see how it works first, then go from there. I have to change where the air comes out of the tank, it is set up backwards in my opinion. But it also has what is probably the original gate valve that is hard to turn. So I will change that and add a regulator/ dryer to it as well.

 

[chaosracing]

Well I tried to remove the bottom bushing this morning. Tried again with the cheater bar on pipe wrench. Nothing. Then tried to heat up the outer part and tried the cheater bar and wrench again. Still nothing. I am already starting to round one part off and would like to get it out but can't figure what to do. It almost reminds me of cheap cast bushings, but they have the original green paint on them so I would say they are original.

Really hoping I did not waste money with this.

 

[yaidunno]

Well I tried to remove the bottom bushing this morning. Tried again with the cheater bar on pipe wrench. Nothing. Then tried to heat up the outer part and tried the cheater bar and wrench again. Still nothing. I am already starting to round one part off and would like to get it out but can't figure what to do. It almost reminds me of cheap cast bushings, but they have the original green paint on them so I would say they are original.

Really hoping I did not waste money with this.

I ran into similar issues with my Champion compressor built in the 70’s. It was a plug though, not a bushing.

In any case, the best way to get those suckers out is to use a hole saw and “core” it out so that there is approx. 1/8-3/16” wall remaining. You will likely need to get a plug to put in the existing hole so the pilot bit has something to bite into. Use a welder to run some beads, or a TIG torch to just heat and start a puddle on the new ID bore. No need to go crazy with either, your just looking to get heat into the part, and have it shrink when it cools. It will spin out by hand after. Whatever you do, make sure you don’t accidently fuse the threads together!

 

[chaosracing]

I might have to try that as a last resort. Tried to heat, beat and cheat again with no luck. I even got it hotter than before. Dont know if its old pipe dope or rust holding them in.

 

[Burgerkong]

My saga: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=301019

My solution to the impossible to remove bung: I sold the damn tank LOL.

 

[chaosracing]

Well I had a chance to work on it the last few days. I took the motor and pump off. I wound up core drilling the plug and bushing out. Used a 2 3/8" hole saw. I wound up using a chisel and tapped the rest out, no damage to the threads.

When I got them out though, the bottom was pretty full of junk. I took it to a self serve car wash (would have done it at home but did not want the junk all over the place) and power washed the inside out. Found the old internal drain line that either broke or fell off the adapter. Bottom looks good, sides have scale on them.

My plan for now is to finish cleaning it up, make a new internal drain line, install the new plug and adapter and drain valve. Put new oil seal on pump. Spray bomb the whole thing and then try to sell it. I just sold a piece of equipment and had I done that before, I would have bought something newer. I am just a little leary of having a potential bomb in my garage.