jon72vega
Well-known member
BoilermakerFan,
Merry Christmas to you and your family!
Merry Christmas to you and your family!
Killing time in a small "2 car" garage
- Thread starter BoilermakerFan
- Start date
xtremek
Well-known member
Sounds like you've been chipping away at it pretty steady. I can't imagine restrictions like that. Out here, don't even need a permit to put up an out building.
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
Thanks Jon! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family!
Since Indiana's COVID is out of control, especially here in the SW corner, we headed down to Florida and spent Christmas on Daytona Beach in a 3 bedroom condo. We kept safe and cooked all our meals in the condo. Florida didn't have a mask mandate, but the condo building required them and strictly enforced the rule. Most people wore masks in public too, so that was good.
We had great weather except for Christmas day it was really cold. We still went and walked the beach. A very low key and enjoyable Christmas and a good end to 2020.
I'm not sure how strictly it's all enforced, but I'll play by the rules so there are no issues down the road when we move out of the Midwest in 15-20 years.
At least I'll be able to build a detached "garage" for my shop and gentlemen lounge. I just wish I didn't have to go in front of the zoning board to get an exemption for peak height to exceed 14'. 18' would be about ideal for my plans so I could have a 10' ceiling in the shop and 6-1/2' height in the attic storage. I may end up skipping the board and just go with 9' ceiling and ~4' height in the storage. That's still a lot more height than I have now in the current garage. We'll see... maybe we'll get lucky and find a house that already has a detached garage in the backyard with a higher peak height.
In here the numbers are spiking. People are living like there's nothing happening out there. Business owners struggle reminding customers every 5 minutes to not step inside their stores without masks.
As I enjoy spending time doing my infinite home projects, I don't spend too much outside anyway. However when I do go out to buy groceries, I get impressed by the amount of people ignoring rules.
Our hospitals passed the 80% occupancy mark.
As I enjoy spending time doing my infinite home projects, I don't spend too much outside anyway. However when I do go out to buy groceries, I get impressed by the amount of people ignoring rules.
Our hospitals passed the 80% occupancy mark.
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
Figured it was time to post a few updates...
But I'll start with a pic of our view from the balcony of our condo in FL over Christmas:
My aunt-in-law got me a set of sweet beverage glasses for Christmas:
And one of my gifts from my daughter was a really cool Purdue sticker:
It filled the last little area on my personal laptop perfectly:
The other gift she got me was a new, remastered 180g press of Metallica's Kill 'Em All. Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to change out the cartridge on the TT to give it a spin...
I still had a week off from work when we got back to Indiana after Christmas so we made a few trips to HD, Lowes, and Menards for supplies needed to get some items checked off the punch list on the house before we list it this spring.
First up was installing new baseboard & case molding in the basement as well as setting a utility sink. We've had the sink a few years, but I knew it was going to be a royal PITA to set because of the way the drain plumbing was set up. It was, but I prevailed.
With the sink set, I could knock out the door & baseboard trim.
We're going to be replacing the carpet on the stairs and I had enough baseboard, so I decided to carry it around the base of the stairs and I really like the way it turned out.
After that was done I needed to get the rest of the old galv pipe waterlines cut out:
And I finally got the rest of the chicken coop cut up small enough to fit in our curb side trash cans... All the trash is out of the area that will soon be a new gravel driveway leading up to the garage:
I need to call the contractor this week to get on his schedule in the next couple of weeks.
Knocked out a couple easy punch list items by installing two new ceiling fans. One in the kitchen and one in my daughter's room.
We need to order an all white version of the kitchen ceiling fan for my son's room. We haven't decided if we'll replace the ceiling fan in our bedroom with a newer fan or not. It's a little dated, but not horrible.
But I'll start with a pic of our view from the balcony of our condo in FL over Christmas:
My aunt-in-law got me a set of sweet beverage glasses for Christmas:
And one of my gifts from my daughter was a really cool Purdue sticker:
It filled the last little area on my personal laptop perfectly:
The other gift she got me was a new, remastered 180g press of Metallica's Kill 'Em All. Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to change out the cartridge on the TT to give it a spin...
I still had a week off from work when we got back to Indiana after Christmas so we made a few trips to HD, Lowes, and Menards for supplies needed to get some items checked off the punch list on the house before we list it this spring.
First up was installing new baseboard & case molding in the basement as well as setting a utility sink. We've had the sink a few years, but I knew it was going to be a royal PITA to set because of the way the drain plumbing was set up. It was, but I prevailed.
With the sink set, I could knock out the door & baseboard trim.
We're going to be replacing the carpet on the stairs and I had enough baseboard, so I decided to carry it around the base of the stairs and I really like the way it turned out.
After that was done I needed to get the rest of the old galv pipe waterlines cut out:
And I finally got the rest of the chicken coop cut up small enough to fit in our curb side trash cans... All the trash is out of the area that will soon be a new gravel driveway leading up to the garage:
I need to call the contractor this week to get on his schedule in the next couple of weeks.
Knocked out a couple easy punch list items by installing two new ceiling fans. One in the kitchen and one in my daughter's room.
We need to order an all white version of the kitchen ceiling fan for my son's room. We haven't decided if we'll replace the ceiling fan in our bedroom with a newer fan or not. It's a little dated, but not horrible.
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
It was back to the utility sink in the basement and time to tackle the part I was dreading the most... the drain work. Ugggg...
First I ran the water supply lines behind the wall and drilled the hole where the vent pipe for the AAV was going to poke back into the storage utility area.
I discovered that I really needed to remove a double bulb 4' fluorescent light and replace it with a new single, slim LED light so I could shift it over and away from the water lines.
Took this one down. I have two of these old fixtures and I love them so I'm keeping both when we move. I have the other one converted to LED tubes above my hobby bench on the other side of the basement.
And replaced it with this:
I'm really impressed with that single LED light. They can be cord or direct wired and linked together. They come in both 2' and 4' lengths. I see more of these in our future at our new house.
Then it was time to embrace the smell of sewer gas and start installing the drain piping!
And behind the wall:
The next day or so I installed the faucet on the sink and ran the feed lines right up to where they will tie in to the main lines. I haven't tied then in yet since I'll need to shut off all the water in the house and drain the lines.
The connections for the hoses on the faucet were tight! Even with the specialty faucet wrench, it wasn't fun.
By this time I was back to work on and my son returned to in-person high school. We tried the virtual school for the first semester and it was a disaster. With the sink from HELL finally installed and ready to be tied in and all the old pipe out of the way, it was time to start the next project in the basement. Can lights.
The basement is dived into roughly 2/3 and 1/3 by the support beam that I had boxed in years ago. Four cans were going on the 1/3 side and eight on the 2/3 side. I tackled the four on the 1/3 side first because they would be the easiest to wire in and hang. Plus I only bought a 4-pack of the direct fit LED inserts to test them out. I was marking out their locations and would hammer them up during my lunch hour if i didn't have any calls interfering.
Got the wires all run and connected and adjusted the lights to 3000K after starting at 4000K, then 3500K. The 3000K looked the best for the area and the light is really even. Very happy with the results.
It was time to move on to the eight for the 2/3 side. Those took my all week to get installed over lunch hours and I pulled the wires between all of them at night during the week. I got all the lights wired together last Thursday night and it was time to actually add a new dimmer switch and wire them in to the lighting circuit.
The original plan was to replace an existing 2-gang box with an Old Work 3-gang box. No store in a 20 mile radius had a single 3-gang Old Work box in stock! So plan B was to separate the two original switches and use a 2-gang box for the new dimmer switches on the can lights and move the 3-way switch for the basement stair lights to it's own box at the bottom of the stairs. That meant a lot more drywall work, but oh well... to add insult to injury, the stupid drywall broke in the upper right corner of the opening for the new 2-gang box when I was pulling the wires in. That corner is the corner that supports the little clamping tab that hold the Old Work boxes in the wall.
I used spray contact adhesive to secure the broken out chunk enough to allow the 2-gang box to be installed, but it needs more mud work to hide the damage. I circled where it broke in one of the pics below.
After 2 coats of joint compound and the ultra thin fiber tape, it's finally starting to blend in well enough. I'll probably end up applying another 4-5 coats of compound to finish the blending/feathering job so you can't see where any of the old stuff was or tell the wall was broken.
Despite the frustrations on the wall switches, the end result of the can lights on the 2/3 side was just as good as the other side! With all 12 lights on the area can be really bright or just very evenly illuminated for watch movies & playing video games.
We're ordering replacement windows for the basement, but I'm still going to trim out the opening with the same case molding I used around the doors. I'll paint the old windows so they look nice, but we'll have the order receipt to show the new windows are on the way.
Saturday night I had one last little bit of electrical wiring to finish in the basement...
I added a junction box and receptacle to the switched circuit that lights up the utility area that's on my hobby side of the unfinished space. I had a small LED hanging light that I wanted over the shelves we use as additional "pantry" storage. Both realtors we've had come through loved the idea of getting it hung and connected before we list the house. We'll leave the grey shelves with the house since I cut them down to fit the space. The expensive Menards pallet rack style shelves are not staying...
The last items to do in the basement are messy ones. I'm wrapping and sealing the air ducts before we paint the ceiling. After the ceiling is painted, all the trim and walls get painted.
I need to replace two old can lights in the kitchen with the new style direct fit lights and we need to replace the old fixture over the sink. I actually love the old light and it was the only original light fixture in the house we kept from the previous owners. Once it's replaced, I'm taking it with me. I'm going to refinish it and build a sweeping arc wood wall mount for it and put in my next hobby space or in the new workshop. The bottom has a really cool circular ringed glass bottom. It will be refinished in a black, navy blue, or red with a black chain and woven fabric wrapped cord:
One last little project I did the weekend of New Years was to hang a cabinet on the wall out in the garage. I was originally holding on to this cabinet to be an enclosure for a 3D printer, but I decided I really needed it on the wall in the garage so I could get rid of the shelf next to it for the floor space. It's coming with us when we move too. I'll take it down off the wall and just put it in the trailer/container/truck with the stuff back in it. My buddy who gave it to me said he has one, maybe two, more that he can part with so I'll get those from him for the new place.
There's another cool thing I still need to share, but it's late and I'm tired!
First I ran the water supply lines behind the wall and drilled the hole where the vent pipe for the AAV was going to poke back into the storage utility area.
I discovered that I really needed to remove a double bulb 4' fluorescent light and replace it with a new single, slim LED light so I could shift it over and away from the water lines.
Took this one down. I have two of these old fixtures and I love them so I'm keeping both when we move. I have the other one converted to LED tubes above my hobby bench on the other side of the basement.
And replaced it with this:
I'm really impressed with that single LED light. They can be cord or direct wired and linked together. They come in both 2' and 4' lengths. I see more of these in our future at our new house.
Then it was time to embrace the smell of sewer gas and start installing the drain piping!
And behind the wall:
The next day or so I installed the faucet on the sink and ran the feed lines right up to where they will tie in to the main lines. I haven't tied then in yet since I'll need to shut off all the water in the house and drain the lines.
The connections for the hoses on the faucet were tight! Even with the specialty faucet wrench, it wasn't fun.
By this time I was back to work on and my son returned to in-person high school. We tried the virtual school for the first semester and it was a disaster. With the sink from HELL finally installed and ready to be tied in and all the old pipe out of the way, it was time to start the next project in the basement. Can lights.
The basement is dived into roughly 2/3 and 1/3 by the support beam that I had boxed in years ago. Four cans were going on the 1/3 side and eight on the 2/3 side. I tackled the four on the 1/3 side first because they would be the easiest to wire in and hang. Plus I only bought a 4-pack of the direct fit LED inserts to test them out. I was marking out their locations and would hammer them up during my lunch hour if i didn't have any calls interfering.
Got the wires all run and connected and adjusted the lights to 3000K after starting at 4000K, then 3500K. The 3000K looked the best for the area and the light is really even. Very happy with the results.
It was time to move on to the eight for the 2/3 side. Those took my all week to get installed over lunch hours and I pulled the wires between all of them at night during the week. I got all the lights wired together last Thursday night and it was time to actually add a new dimmer switch and wire them in to the lighting circuit.
The original plan was to replace an existing 2-gang box with an Old Work 3-gang box. No store in a 20 mile radius had a single 3-gang Old Work box in stock! So plan B was to separate the two original switches and use a 2-gang box for the new dimmer switches on the can lights and move the 3-way switch for the basement stair lights to it's own box at the bottom of the stairs. That meant a lot more drywall work, but oh well... to add insult to injury, the stupid drywall broke in the upper right corner of the opening for the new 2-gang box when I was pulling the wires in. That corner is the corner that supports the little clamping tab that hold the Old Work boxes in the wall.
I used spray contact adhesive to secure the broken out chunk enough to allow the 2-gang box to be installed, but it needs more mud work to hide the damage. I circled where it broke in one of the pics below.
After 2 coats of joint compound and the ultra thin fiber tape, it's finally starting to blend in well enough. I'll probably end up applying another 4-5 coats of compound to finish the blending/feathering job so you can't see where any of the old stuff was or tell the wall was broken.
Despite the frustrations on the wall switches, the end result of the can lights on the 2/3 side was just as good as the other side! With all 12 lights on the area can be really bright or just very evenly illuminated for watch movies & playing video games.
We're ordering replacement windows for the basement, but I'm still going to trim out the opening with the same case molding I used around the doors. I'll paint the old windows so they look nice, but we'll have the order receipt to show the new windows are on the way.
Saturday night I had one last little bit of electrical wiring to finish in the basement...
I added a junction box and receptacle to the switched circuit that lights up the utility area that's on my hobby side of the unfinished space. I had a small LED hanging light that I wanted over the shelves we use as additional "pantry" storage. Both realtors we've had come through loved the idea of getting it hung and connected before we list the house. We'll leave the grey shelves with the house since I cut them down to fit the space. The expensive Menards pallet rack style shelves are not staying...
The last items to do in the basement are messy ones. I'm wrapping and sealing the air ducts before we paint the ceiling. After the ceiling is painted, all the trim and walls get painted.
I need to replace two old can lights in the kitchen with the new style direct fit lights and we need to replace the old fixture over the sink. I actually love the old light and it was the only original light fixture in the house we kept from the previous owners. Once it's replaced, I'm taking it with me. I'm going to refinish it and build a sweeping arc wood wall mount for it and put in my next hobby space or in the new workshop. The bottom has a really cool circular ringed glass bottom. It will be refinished in a black, navy blue, or red with a black chain and woven fabric wrapped cord:
One last little project I did the weekend of New Years was to hang a cabinet on the wall out in the garage. I was originally holding on to this cabinet to be an enclosure for a 3D printer, but I decided I really needed it on the wall in the garage so I could get rid of the shelf next to it for the floor space. It's coming with us when we move too. I'll take it down off the wall and just put it in the trailer/container/truck with the stuff back in it. My buddy who gave it to me said he has one, maybe two, more that he can part with so I'll get those from him for the new place.
There's another cool thing I still need to share, but it's late and I'm tired!
jon72vega
Well-known member
You've been very busy.
Good Job!
Good Job!
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
My goodness you've been busy! Great work all around!
xtremek
Well-known member
You've been very busy. Looks good.
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
Thanks guys! I've definitely been busy since Dec. 27th.
This week I've just been working on the wall patching and continuing the work on the HVAC ducts in prepping for painting. And enjoying the new bright, even lighting in the basement. Reorganized my totes that store my plumbing/tiling/drywall tools; electrical wiring supplies; and painting supplies. Purged a lot of stuff I didn't need.
Several pages ago I shared a house plan from Shawn at Small House Catalog. He just launched a new site called DYGS and released 3 new designs there. One of the designs was a single car garage.
It's a 20'x30' design and he offers the plan as a PDF or as CAD files that can be modified. This garage design is just about perfect for my future needs.
Design specifications:
600 sq. ft.
Width: 20’-0”
Length: 30’-0”
Height: 19’-0”
Wall height: 9’-0”
2x6 R-21 + walls
Trussed R-49 + roof
Insulated slab foundation
Mini-split heating & cooling
I need to modify the roof slope to bring down the peak height from 19' to 14' for the town we plan to move to. I also have no plan to keep the 3/4 bathroom. While it would be nice to have, it would make the cost much higher and probably a bigger PITA to get approval to build. I'll keep the room, but use it for my air compressor and a dust collector.
I'll probably reduce the size the of the two overhangs on each end of the garage too. I love the look, but adding that space back into enclosed space in the garage is more important. And since the roof is based on trusses, I'll probably use attic storage trusses for the last 8' of the ceiling over the storage closet and back door. My two reasons for this are to gain some overhead storage and to give me a lowered ceiling over that back area to make it the lounge area in the space. I probably won't actually wall in that area, but instead I'd hang a heavy canvas from a track on the ceiling so I can close it off during any dusty work while keeping room for anything that might be longer than 20'.
I love the sky lights in the ceiling and I was planning to install skylights in my next garage already.
* EDIT * -- I originally shared the pics of Shawn's SHC floorplan way back in post 9 on the first page of this thread! Post #9 - The SHC house plan
This week I've just been working on the wall patching and continuing the work on the HVAC ducts in prepping for painting. And enjoying the new bright, even lighting in the basement. Reorganized my totes that store my plumbing/tiling/drywall tools; electrical wiring supplies; and painting supplies. Purged a lot of stuff I didn't need.
Several pages ago I shared a house plan from Shawn at Small House Catalog. He just launched a new site called DYGS and released 3 new designs there. One of the designs was a single car garage.
It's a 20'x30' design and he offers the plan as a PDF or as CAD files that can be modified. This garage design is just about perfect for my future needs.
Design specifications:
600 sq. ft.
Width: 20’-0”
Length: 30’-0”
Height: 19’-0”
Wall height: 9’-0”
2x6 R-21 + walls
Trussed R-49 + roof
Insulated slab foundation
Mini-split heating & cooling
I need to modify the roof slope to bring down the peak height from 19' to 14' for the town we plan to move to. I also have no plan to keep the 3/4 bathroom. While it would be nice to have, it would make the cost much higher and probably a bigger PITA to get approval to build. I'll keep the room, but use it for my air compressor and a dust collector.
I'll probably reduce the size the of the two overhangs on each end of the garage too. I love the look, but adding that space back into enclosed space in the garage is more important. And since the roof is based on trusses, I'll probably use attic storage trusses for the last 8' of the ceiling over the storage closet and back door. My two reasons for this are to gain some overhead storage and to give me a lowered ceiling over that back area to make it the lounge area in the space. I probably won't actually wall in that area, but instead I'd hang a heavy canvas from a track on the ceiling so I can close it off during any dusty work while keeping room for anything that might be longer than 20'.
I love the sky lights in the ceiling and I was planning to install skylights in my next garage already.
* EDIT * -- I originally shared the pics of Shawn's SHC floorplan way back in post 9 on the first page of this thread! Post #9 - The SHC house plan
Last edited:
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
That is a really cool design! And the natural light from a skylight is always a good thing.
jon72vega
Well-known member
That's a cool looking garage!Thanks guys! I've definitely been busy since Dec. 27th.
This week I've just been working on the wall patching and continuing the work on the HVAC ducts in prepping for painting. And enjoying the new bright, even lighting in the basement. Reorganized my totes that store my plumbing/tiling/drywall tools; electrical wiring supplies; and painting supplies. Purged a lot of stuff I didn't need.
Several pages ago I shared a house plan from Shawn at Small House Catalog. He just launched a new site called DYGS and released 3 new designs there. One of the designs was a single car garage.
It's a 20'x30' design and he offers the plan as a PDF or as CAD files that can be modified. This garage design is just about perfect for my future needs.
Design specifications:
600 sq. ft.
Width: 20’-0”
Length: 30’-0”
Height: 19’-0”
Wall height: 9’-0”
2x6 R-21 + walls
Trussed R-49 + roof
Insulated slab foundation
Mini-split heating & cooling
I need to modify the roof slope to bring down the peak height from 19' to 14' for the town we plan to move to. I also have no plan to keep the 3/4 bathroom. While it would be nice to have, it would make the cost much higher and probably a bigger PITA to get approval to build. I'll keep the room, but use it for my air compressor and a dust collector.
I'll probably reduce the size the of the two overhangs on each end of the garage too. I love the look, but adding that space back into enclosed space in the garage is more important. And since the roof is based on trusses, I'll probably use attic storage trusses for the last 8' of the ceiling over the storage closet and back door. My two reasons for this are to gain some overhead storage and to give me a lowered ceiling over that back area to make it the lounge area in the space. I probably won't actually wall in that area, but instead I'd hang a heavy canvas from a track on the ceiling so I can close it off during any dusty work while keeping room for anything that might be longer than 20'.
I love the sky lights in the ceiling and I was planning to install skylights in my next garage already.
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
Glad you guys like it. I love it. It was like a little gift from above. I didn't know Shawn was starting a new web site and I hadn't talked to him in a couple years, so when I received the email about the new site and then saw the design I was blown away. It's so close to being exactly what I knew I wanted in a one car garage that I was about to email him about revising the plans, then I saw the option to buy the CAD and 3D model plans with the note that I would be free to modify the design for my own needs.
I may even try to get an exemption or whatever it's called from the zoning board to build it to the 19' height if we end up finding a house with a taller roof peak on a bigger lot. Worst case, the neighbors go to the planning meeting, protest, and it's denied.
I want to build the garage to be well insulated but still feel light and airy throughout most of it. So I was already planning to use 2x6 walls and insulate everything. I love the glass garage doors but they aren't very insulating so I'm probably going to build barn doors or a slider to cover them when I'm not out there. That has been on my wish list plan for the next garage for a long time. I love the way they look when closed over the garage door. If solid glass garage doors just aren't in the budget, I'll have to order a custom garage door with windows in all the panels. I want to add one of the roll up screen garage doors that stack over the main doors like they do in Florida. I'd love to be able to have the sky lights open, windows open, and the main doors open with screens to keep the bugs out.
I love the little garage door at the back, but it may not make into my build. If it came down to having the golf cart sized "motorcycle" garage door or the Florida-style garage screen door, I'll take the screen door. I'm already planning to eliminate the second man door at the back and replace it with a window or two.
For the last 2-3 months I've spent hours upon hours at night watching shop tours, garage makeovers, and custom home builder videos. I have a list of must haves for the next place and a lot of design/setup ideas collected. I've been thinking a lot about what big power tools are must haves and which ones might be nice to add later. I still do a bit of woodworking, but I've been migrating to wanting to do a lot more metal work. Initially I'll probably start with just a big 18"-20" band saw and a Nova Viking drill press. Then the goal will be to add a CNC router followed by a larger blast cabinet. Once we're moved and I have the new garage shop, I'll finally be able to build my DIY powder/ceramic coating booth and curing oven. The last two things I'd like to add down the road are a mid-sized metal lathe and a midi-sized vertical mill.
After watching so many shop tours for both woodworking and machining, I always think that most have too many large tools in them that I just wouldn't use. Not that I don't like tools, but there are a lot of common tools between these shops that I just don't see as necessary for the things I like to build or would ever want to build.
One thing that has changed a little... I didn't think I'd really want another project car or 4-wheeled toy that wasn't my daily driver. Now I'm kind of jonesing to get a 2018 or 2019 Subaru BRZ down the road instead of a new motorcycle. That might have to do with the fact that Sikky makes a super sweet LS/LT engine swap kit for the Gen1 BRZ and it's 86 twins. Stupid YouTube...
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
LS swapped BRZ, yep, I'm on board with that!
xtremek
Well-known member
I'm definitely jealous of that bathroom. Is the screen really necessary? In the summer, my shop door is almost always open, and with the fans going, the bugs aren't usually a problem. Except the box elder bugs, and they're just a minor annoyance.
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
That would be the long term goal for the car. I'd start with it stock and tackle the basic upgrades that would be require for a LS swap anyway. Exhaust, suspension, brakes. Then I'll probably add an Edelbrock supercharger and UEL headers. When I have the the funds to buy or build the LS3/T56 Magnum transmission I'd start on that phase. Then when everything is ready to swap in, I'll sell the pulled engine and transmission.
I'm also waiting to see what the aftermarket develops for the new BRZ 2.4L boxer. If the mods and upgrades come quickly, I may go for a 2023 model in 2026 or later.
This project will have extreme budget constraints since I have a son starting college in the fall of 2023. We just made the last payment to Purdue for my daughter's last semester. My wife will be getting a new vehicle later this year after we're settled in the new house. My son will get the Forester his senior year in HS and I'll need a new vehicle at that time too.
I don't know how bad they are up in Munster, but down here, the mosquitos are horrible. I hate them. Flies are bad too, but not nearly as bad as the mosquitos. So the main reason for everything having screens is to keep those bastards at bay. I also like the fact that most of the screens I've seen on the garages in FL have very good privacy too, so you can't see into the garages very easily when they're down.
I won't be putting in an actual bathroom in my detached garage. It would be nice, but the cost to have it would be significant in Munster since all plumbing has to be done by a licensed plumber. Munster does not allow homeowners to pull plumbing permits. Fortunately, they do allow homeowners to pull building permits and electrical permits after the homeowner takes a test on electrical. I'm also fortunate that I have a large amount of spare Eaton Electrical Cutler-Hammer CH breakers including a 2pole 100A breaker. That will make feeding the sub-panel to the new garage easier and I have all the 20A, 30A, and 40A 2poles I need for my planned equipment. I'll only have to buy the panel and 20A single pole breakers.
My current garage has a 60A sub-panel. I regret just not going to 100A and putting in a larger panel. I have no poles left in my current garage so I couldn't even add a dedicated 20A circuit for a dust collector.
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
Friday night I was able to get the wall painted where I had to do the drywall work from installing the new switch boxes.
Today I put on the switch covers, but I forgot to upload the pic. I also went to HD to pick up a gallon of ceiling paint for the kitchen along with two new 6" can lights to replace the old, crappy ones. I also grabbed a ton of color swatches for the wall and ceiling colors so my wife could decide what colors she wanted that also aligned with the recommendations from the realtors.
I have a few pics of the palette, but my phone didn't pick up the colors like we see them. We're going to paint one wall a very light bluish grey and the rest are going to be a light greyish white with a charcoal grey that has just a touch of blue for the ceiling. We're painting everything in the ceiling... the rafters, the can light fixtures, all the wiring, duct work, plumbing pipes, subfloor... everything. We've seen this done in a lot of houses and love the look, plus it's super popular right now so it will really help sell the house.
The one thing I am going to do is take pictures of all the water lines and write what all the electrical junction boxes are for inside the covers before I paint. Then I'm going to print labels for everything with white letters on clear backing and apply them to everything that needs to be marked. It's a small thing to do, but I'd be pissed if I bought a house that had everything painted and nothing labeled.
I'm not done sealing all the duct work yet, but I need to grab a gallon of Bullseye 1-2-3 primer so I can prime the electrical panels, junction boxes, plumbing, and metal ducts before I paint the ceiling. I'm not going to prime the entire ceiling, just the critical things that need the primer to make sure the paint sticks.
The only other thing I started working on today was prepping the kitchen ceiling for paint. There is a crack that runs the width of the room that was never repaired correctly. The crack was there when we bought the house. It's just from settling over the last 80 years, but just painting over it wouldn't necessarily hold up and it would still be slightly visible. So I gouged out the crack to expose the plaster, covered it with thin fiber tape, and started working joint compound into the crack. It takes about 3-4 coats to completely fill and blend it in. I used the same technique in the LR & DR in late 2019 when we remodeled/repainted those two rooms and the crack haven't popped again yet. It should be ready for paint by Monday evening.
I was planning to start filling in the nail holes in all of the trim I installed throughout the house to prep that for painting too, but unfortunately, I cut my thumb on my right hand this morning on our big chef's knife while washing dishes. It didn't need medical attention, but it's just enough to be a real pain and took almost 2 hours to finally stop popping back open every time I tried to bandage it. I can probably fill the holes with just my fingers and a small flexible putty knife, but it's so much faster for me when I could use my thumb and fingers.
I was going to just super glue it after I had it sealed and the bleeding stopped, but SWMBO got really mad at me mentioning that. Tomorrow I'll probably pick up some liquid bandage and then cover that with surgical tape. I searched for Dermabond locally, but nobody sells it around here. If it pops back open tomorrow even with the liquid bandage, I'll order the Dermabond from Amazon. I'm mostly annoyed it was my right hand... and I haven't cut myself anywhere with a knife of any kind in over 25 years.
Today I put on the switch covers, but I forgot to upload the pic. I also went to HD to pick up a gallon of ceiling paint for the kitchen along with two new 6" can lights to replace the old, crappy ones. I also grabbed a ton of color swatches for the wall and ceiling colors so my wife could decide what colors she wanted that also aligned with the recommendations from the realtors.
I have a few pics of the palette, but my phone didn't pick up the colors like we see them. We're going to paint one wall a very light bluish grey and the rest are going to be a light greyish white with a charcoal grey that has just a touch of blue for the ceiling. We're painting everything in the ceiling... the rafters, the can light fixtures, all the wiring, duct work, plumbing pipes, subfloor... everything. We've seen this done in a lot of houses and love the look, plus it's super popular right now so it will really help sell the house.
The one thing I am going to do is take pictures of all the water lines and write what all the electrical junction boxes are for inside the covers before I paint. Then I'm going to print labels for everything with white letters on clear backing and apply them to everything that needs to be marked. It's a small thing to do, but I'd be pissed if I bought a house that had everything painted and nothing labeled.
I'm not done sealing all the duct work yet, but I need to grab a gallon of Bullseye 1-2-3 primer so I can prime the electrical panels, junction boxes, plumbing, and metal ducts before I paint the ceiling. I'm not going to prime the entire ceiling, just the critical things that need the primer to make sure the paint sticks.
The only other thing I started working on today was prepping the kitchen ceiling for paint. There is a crack that runs the width of the room that was never repaired correctly. The crack was there when we bought the house. It's just from settling over the last 80 years, but just painting over it wouldn't necessarily hold up and it would still be slightly visible. So I gouged out the crack to expose the plaster, covered it with thin fiber tape, and started working joint compound into the crack. It takes about 3-4 coats to completely fill and blend it in. I used the same technique in the LR & DR in late 2019 when we remodeled/repainted those two rooms and the crack haven't popped again yet. It should be ready for paint by Monday evening.
I was planning to start filling in the nail holes in all of the trim I installed throughout the house to prep that for painting too, but unfortunately, I cut my thumb on my right hand this morning on our big chef's knife while washing dishes. It didn't need medical attention, but it's just enough to be a real pain and took almost 2 hours to finally stop popping back open every time I tried to bandage it. I can probably fill the holes with just my fingers and a small flexible putty knife, but it's so much faster for me when I could use my thumb and fingers.
I was going to just super glue it after I had it sealed and the bleeding stopped, but SWMBO got really mad at me mentioning that. Tomorrow I'll probably pick up some liquid bandage and then cover that with surgical tape. I searched for Dermabond locally, but nobody sells it around here. If it pops back open tomorrow even with the liquid bandage, I'll order the Dermabond from Amazon. I'm mostly annoyed it was my right hand... and I haven't cut myself anywhere with a knife of any kind in over 25 years.
Johanfpa
Well-known member
I have to agree with you wife because although technically you could use it, it’s not recommended. Because Super Glue is a cyanoacrylate adhesive, and it contains toxins that can be harmful to tissue so just order some Dermabond online and use that instead. Also don't use the Dermabond for deep / jagged wounds, on mobile areas such as joints, or contaminated wounds.
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
Bah! Everything was fine until my index finger stuck to my thumb... then there was a LOT more blood!
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
Just kidding. I didn't need the super glue. My wife's first aid did the job and Sunday I picked up the liquid bandage stuff. Stinks to the Heavens but works amazing! It's healing nicely today. Any time I go to do anything other than type, I put a finger cot over the bandaid on the thumb to protect it too.
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
I didn't bleed to death... but the thumb did slow me down that first week. Been busy days at work and nights have been dedicated to the basement.
On Sunday the 31st I picked up a bunch of paint color swatches for my wife to review.
Our original idea was to have the big wall behind the TV painted an accent color. We thought it was going to be a dusty blue-grey. I took pics with my phone and it wasn't looking the same on my phone as it did to us on the swatch.
So I picked up a sample of the paint along with the light grey and two shades of grey we were considering for the ceiling.
I painted the Dolphin Fin grey on two walls and we're really happy with it. The first is around the wall switches I just installed:
Then I painted a large section of the wall in the accent blue we thought we liked. It was horrible! Even more blue on the wall than it looked in the swatch pics on my phone. It was so bad I didn't even take a pic to share. Not worth the effort.
So I tested the darker grey on the ceiling...
That ended up looking even better than I had hoped it would!
Since I had a fourth paint sample that was in between the light grey and dark grey on the ceiling, I decided to paint the little half wall along the stairs in this color to see how it would look.
If you look closely you can see I painted the "ceiling" joist above it the dark grey. I was stoked on how it looked so I called SWMBO down for her opinion. She loved it too!
So this is now our color palette for the basement:
I cannot wait to get everything painted! I'm digging the color scheme so much I just might paint my next detached shop in the same colors. At least the ceiling... I might go a little different color on the walls.
Before I can paint the ceilings I had to address the duct work. We were told the covering on our ducts had a high probability of "potentially" being asbestos. I was going to have it tested and get a quote to get it abated. Both realtors kind of freaked out and said do not get it tested. If it is asbestos that kicks off a whole mess of **** that costs a lot of money as well as having to be fully disclosed.
OK, I get it, but I also don't want it causing an issue with potential buyers so I decided to take care of it correctly, but DIY.
When I worked for Purdue over summers in college I saw how the enviro-hazmat guys remediated the asbestos at Purdue. So I made the investment in a true Certified HEPA shop vac and all the PPE. here's my expensive R2-G2 unit as we've taken to calling it:
I had to drive an hour each way on Saturday to find one in stock at a Menards in Owensboro, KY. On the way home I realized it's actually a great bargain at $190 when compared to the HEPA vacs from Festool, Fein, or Makita. And I'll be able to use it with my hand held power tools later. The internal pre-filter/filter is $70 to replace and the HEPA bags are 2 for $30 so not horrible, plus it has a HEPA filter on the exhaust. It's a branded Vacmaster. The same model as a Vacmaster on Amazon is the same $190 price too. I like the green better than yellow. Saturday night I hung plastic around all the ducts I was going to have to vacuum to prep for tape and sealing.
My wife wasn't super thrilled about the whole project or the costs, but I told her since it was potentially asbestos, I wasn't taking any chances. On Sunday I taped all the plastic together and to the floor once I was inside and ready to go. I worked slowly and carefully so I didn't damage any of the ducts any more than they already were. Most of the ducts were in good shape and didn't need much tape so I could just move on to applying the fiber reinforced duct sealer. I did this in full PPE too. I only had one small piece of duct "stuff" fall off to the floor, which was vacuumed up. I vacuumed everything at least 20 times. And I mean everything in the basement... the floors, furniture, anywhere that could have possibly caught a minute spec of dust from the ducts. I was probably over zealous, but better safe than sorry years down the road from now. I learned years ago you don't mess with asbestos or anything that is potentially asbestos.
I finally got all the critical ducts tape and sealed in the finished space on Tuesday. I went through 3 gallons of duct sealer and 5 rolls of foil tape. I have a few more linear feet ducting that needs to be taped and/or sealed, but I ran out of duct sealer so it will have to wait a couple weeks. For now, everything in the finished space is ready for primer and paint!
Last night I even finished the ducts in the utility area were my hobby work bench is and hung my shop light back up.
Taking care of the ducts was easier than I thought it would be so I'm a little disappointed in myself for not doing this years ago. They look so much better!
On Tuesday night some nasty weather was supposed to roll in with sleet, rain, and freezing rain so I ran out to a couple stores to grab dog food, ice melt, and critical survival supplies:
Schools were closed Wednesday and today. The cars ended up having between 3/16" and 5/16" of solid ice on them, but this afternoon it melted enough for the streets to clear and ice sheeted off the cars. It's going to get STUPID cold here this weekend, then snow is in the forecast for Monday and Tuesday next week.
That prompted a run to Menards this afternoon to grab a Graco Magnum X7 while it was still on sale through Saturday. I need to order a nozzle extension and a large tip for the spray gun before I can spray the basement. I'm ordering the Titan extension, a Titan HEA 517 tip, a fine finish low pressure 310 or 312 tip, a whip, a gauge, and couple other accessories from the paint Life Supply online store. I love his YouTube vids and his prices are the same or better than anything local I can find and inline with Amazon as well. I need the extension to save my shoulder and eliminate the need to use a step ladder. The HEA tips are designed to run at 1000psi and greatly reduce overspray and pump wear. I need the gauge to set the pressure at the spray gun.
I decided to just buy the sprayer instead of renting it because I have a fair bit of painting to do in this house and I fully anticipate a lot of painting at the next house, plus the new garage. I shouldn't be this excited about a paint sprayer or painting, but I really can't wait to see the basement all done.
I have some things to share about the new garage planning too, but I need to run for a bit. More to come.
On Sunday the 31st I picked up a bunch of paint color swatches for my wife to review.
Our original idea was to have the big wall behind the TV painted an accent color. We thought it was going to be a dusty blue-grey. I took pics with my phone and it wasn't looking the same on my phone as it did to us on the swatch.
So I picked up a sample of the paint along with the light grey and two shades of grey we were considering for the ceiling.
I painted the Dolphin Fin grey on two walls and we're really happy with it. The first is around the wall switches I just installed:
Then I painted a large section of the wall in the accent blue we thought we liked. It was horrible! Even more blue on the wall than it looked in the swatch pics on my phone.
It was so bad I didn't even take a pic to share. Not worth the effort. So I tested the darker grey on the ceiling...
That ended up looking even better than I had hoped it would!
Since I had a fourth paint sample that was in between the light grey and dark grey on the ceiling, I decided to paint the little half wall along the stairs in this color to see how it would look.
If you look closely you can see I painted the "ceiling" joist above it the dark grey. I was stoked on how it looked so I called SWMBO down for her opinion. She loved it too!
So this is now our color palette for the basement:
I cannot wait to get everything painted! I'm digging the color scheme so much I just might paint my next detached shop in the same colors. At least the ceiling... I might go a little different color on the walls.
Before I can paint the ceilings I had to address the duct work. We were told the covering on our ducts had a high probability of "potentially" being asbestos. I was going to have it tested and get a quote to get it abated. Both realtors kind of freaked out and said do not get it tested. If it is asbestos that kicks off a whole mess of **** that costs a lot of money as well as having to be fully disclosed.
OK, I get it, but I also don't want it causing an issue with potential buyers so I decided to take care of it correctly, but DIY. When I worked for Purdue over summers in college I saw how the enviro-hazmat guys remediated the asbestos at Purdue. So I made the investment in a true Certified HEPA shop vac and all the PPE. here's my expensive R2-G2 unit as we've taken to calling it:
I had to drive an hour each way on Saturday to find one in stock at a Menards in Owensboro, KY. On the way home I realized it's actually a great bargain at $190 when compared to the HEPA vacs from Festool, Fein, or Makita. And I'll be able to use it with my hand held power tools later. The internal pre-filter/filter is $70 to replace and the HEPA bags are 2 for $30 so not horrible, plus it has a HEPA filter on the exhaust. It's a branded Vacmaster. The same model as a Vacmaster on Amazon is the same $190 price too. I like the green better than yellow. Saturday night I hung plastic around all the ducts I was going to have to vacuum to prep for tape and sealing.
My wife wasn't super thrilled about the whole project or the costs, but I told her since it was potentially asbestos, I wasn't taking any chances. On Sunday I taped all the plastic together and to the floor once I was inside and ready to go. I worked slowly and carefully so I didn't damage any of the ducts any more than they already were. Most of the ducts were in good shape and didn't need much tape so I could just move on to applying the fiber reinforced duct sealer. I did this in full PPE too. I only had one small piece of duct "stuff" fall off to the floor, which was vacuumed up. I vacuumed everything at least 20 times. And I mean everything in the basement... the floors, furniture, anywhere that could have possibly caught a minute spec of dust from the ducts. I was probably over zealous, but better safe than sorry years down the road from now. I learned years ago you don't mess with asbestos or anything that is potentially asbestos.
I finally got all the critical ducts tape and sealed in the finished space on Tuesday. I went through 3 gallons of duct sealer and 5 rolls of foil tape. I have a few more linear feet ducting that needs to be taped and/or sealed, but I ran out of duct sealer so it will have to wait a couple weeks. For now, everything in the finished space is ready for primer and paint!
Last night I even finished the ducts in the utility area were my hobby work bench is and hung my shop light back up.
Taking care of the ducts was easier than I thought it would be so I'm a little disappointed in myself for not doing this years ago. They look so much better!
On Tuesday night some nasty weather was supposed to roll in with sleet, rain, and freezing rain so I ran out to a couple stores to grab dog food, ice melt, and critical survival supplies:
Schools were closed Wednesday and today. The cars ended up having between 3/16" and 5/16" of solid ice on them, but this afternoon it melted enough for the streets to clear and ice sheeted off the cars. It's going to get STUPID cold here this weekend, then snow is in the forecast for Monday and Tuesday next week.
That prompted a run to Menards this afternoon to grab a Graco Magnum X7 while it was still on sale through Saturday. I need to order a nozzle extension and a large tip for the spray gun before I can spray the basement. I'm ordering the Titan extension, a Titan HEA 517 tip, a fine finish low pressure 310 or 312 tip, a whip, a gauge, and couple other accessories from the paint Life Supply online store. I love his YouTube vids and his prices are the same or better than anything local I can find and inline with Amazon as well. I need the extension to save my shoulder and eliminate the need to use a step ladder. The HEA tips are designed to run at 1000psi and greatly reduce overspray and pump wear. I need the gauge to set the pressure at the spray gun.
I decided to just buy the sprayer instead of renting it because I have a fair bit of painting to do in this house and I fully anticipate a lot of painting at the next house, plus the new garage. I shouldn't be this excited about a paint sprayer or painting, but I really can't wait to see the basement all done.
I have some things to share about the new garage planning too, but I need to run for a bit. More to come.
Unruh
Well-known member
“critical survival supplies”.
I’ve been looking at the HEPA vacs as well. Do you think they have as much suction as a regular 5HP shop vac? You’ll have to let us know what you think of it after some time.
I’ve been looking at the HEPA vacs as well. Do you think they have as much suction as a regular 5HP shop vac? You’ll have to let us know what you think of it after some time.
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
I love the Masterforce/Vacmaster Certified HEPA vacuum. I bet I have 4-5 hours of run time on it already. It's still a wet/dry vac too, but I have no plans to ever use it for wet duty. The hose is smaller, 1-7/8" and it has a bit of suction adjustment on the curved wand section. It definitely had enough suction for my needs.
I used the round brush attachment for cleaning the ducts so the brush was soft enough not to damage the suspect wrap on the ducts, but still allowed me to loosen up the caked "dirt/lint/dust" off the ducts. Bigger dust bunnies would get caught in the brush so I'd just carefully remove the brush, then clean it with the vacuum.
I used the full wand extensions and the floor brush to vacuum the floors and it easily sucked up wood chips I knocked off the beam. The wood chips were from using a spade bit to drill through the joists 21 years ago when I rewired the house. So that should give you a decent reference to the size of the debris it easily picked up. It also would **** in over a foot of the 30mil plastic I was using to isolate the area any time I would accidentally get too close with the round brush end. I would have to use the suction adjustment set to lowest setting in order to pull the plastic out. I probably could pull the plastic out at full suction, but I didn't want to risk tearing the plastic.
I also used the round brush and one wand section to vacuum everything in the ceiling. The joists, the subfloor, all the wiring, electrical junction boxes, etc. It just grabs all the dust and cob webs. I did the entire ceiling on the one side of the beam already which is about 40% of my total ceiling area. I'll get the other side done right before I start to paint.
Because there might be asbestos, I'm planning to just bite the bullet and throw away the pre-filter and internal filter along with the bag. Then I'll buy a new pre-filter and filter for the vacuum. I have no plans to use this vacuum with any more potentially toxic substances in this house. If our next house is older and tests positive for lead paint then I'll use this vac for that removal the same way I did the ducts. Enclose the area with plastic, seal it all off, then do the job in full PPE and throw everything away again. Even at $85 total for the filter set and a bag, that's cheap insurance to make sure the house is safe for my family.
When using this for wood working, replacing the pre-filter and filter won't be necessary until it's completely caked with dust, which should be quite a while since the pre-filter can be cleaned and reused.
I just realized I uploaded the wrong pic for the finished ducts too. Here's the correct pic:
I used the duct sealer over the taped joints on the ducts that were not completely taped. I have one duct that is completely wrapped in tape so it will just get a good coat or two of Bullseye 1-2-3 primer. I still need to install support straps on several of the ducts as well. They're not really sagging, but a big reason they needed repairs is because they do sag a little. The webbing is so easy to use and install I'm just going to do it right and then paint it all.
And my new tool is in the house!
I needed the X7 in order to be able to use a 0.017" tip size and i wanted one on a stand to make it easier to use with gallon buckets. A couple friends have the X5s and both said they've had the S shaped suction hose pop out of their paint cans. The X5 can only use up to 0.015" tips anyway. I need the 17 for both the Bullseye and the Behr Marquee paint. When this sprayer pumps gives up the ghost, I'll replace it with a Titan 440 impact or possibly a 660 Impact.
I couldn't bring myself to step up to the ProX19 Graco sprayer. It's getting to close to the cost of a 440 Impact, but I wasn't ready to spend close to $1K on a sprayer yet either. I expect to get a couple years out of the X7 and with a better spray gun and a pressure gauge on the gun, I should be able to get results that are really darn close to the 440 Impact with the same setup.
I have several Amazon gift cards, so I decided to spring for the Titan RX-Pro gun now. It comes with the 517 tip I need too. still going to order the extension, whip, and two other tips from Paint Life. The hose on the X7 kind of ***** so the whip is a must IMHO.
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
On to the new shop planning!
I've been spending a little bit of time planning out the new garage. Final design decisions won't be made until we actually buy our next house and I know the exact zoning rules that will apply to my situation. I have a couple of buddies who have already volunteered to come visit over a weekend to help me raise the structure.
I'll submit my plans and apply for any necessary appeals, the main one being the overall structure height, and see if I can get it approved. If it's denied I'll have to edit the design and then submit for the permit. I'll have the foundation poured and finished, then I'll do everything else under a homeowner permit. I'll build the wall sections on the floor and have them all ready to go when my friends arrive. I'll have all the materials delivered and on-site before then too. I'll rent a small telehandler to make truss installation easy. Two long days over a weekend should have the structure free standing. Then I'll finish the build by myself unless one of my buddies wants to come down from MI again. He loves building houses and garages so it wouldn't surprise me if he came down for a Saturday or two after the main weekend.
I'm going to build the largest structure I can but it will have to have a single wide garage door. As soon as it goes to a 16' wide or two singles side by side it's considered a 2-car garage which isn't allowed for a house under 3,500 sq/ft if it has a 2-car attached garage. I don't want a 16' door anyway, so that won't impact me. Munster's zoning limit is 900sq/ft which is more than double the size of the **** garage I have now. My plan is to keep the garage 20' wide with a 10' garage door. I'll probably extend the length to 36' feet overall and then add a bump out that is 8' deep and either 12' or 16' long. I haven't decided if I'll isolate most of this bump out from the main space or just a portion of it for storage of lawn furniture and yard tools.
I found a company that makes awesome garage doors and you can buy them through Lowes! FrenchPorte They split the difference between solid glass garage doors and a higher-end door with windows.
This is my favorite design they offer:
On the web site they even show pictures of one of the doors with an integrated working man door. Going with a 10' wide by 8' tall door will give me plenty of room to have "barn" doors on each side that I can close over the front of the garage door for extra security, noise abatment, and insulation value.
I also found two relatively affordable screen options for the garage door so they're staying in the plan for now:
I'm planning to use T-studs' trussed 2x6s for the wall studs and the Zip System Zip R for the exterior sheathing. The T-studs might be 86'ed if their lead time is too long, but I love the design and the ability to completely fill the wall cavity with blown in rockwool insulation. I'm a night owl, especially on weekends so I want to minimize noise transmission out of the garage. Mostly for my wife's sanity, but also to be a good neighbor and avoid getting on a first name basis with the local Po-Po.
I think that covers everything to this point on the future home of Scurvy Tick Customs.
I've been spending a little bit of time planning out the new garage. Final design decisions won't be made until we actually buy our next house and I know the exact zoning rules that will apply to my situation. I have a couple of buddies who have already volunteered to come visit over a weekend to help me raise the structure.
I'll submit my plans and apply for any necessary appeals, the main one being the overall structure height, and see if I can get it approved. If it's denied I'll have to edit the design and then submit for the permit. I'll have the foundation poured and finished, then I'll do everything else under a homeowner permit. I'll build the wall sections on the floor and have them all ready to go when my friends arrive. I'll have all the materials delivered and on-site before then too. I'll rent a small telehandler to make truss installation easy. Two long days over a weekend should have the structure free standing. Then I'll finish the build by myself unless one of my buddies wants to come down from MI again. He loves building houses and garages so it wouldn't surprise me if he came down for a Saturday or two after the main weekend.
I'm going to build the largest structure I can but it will have to have a single wide garage door. As soon as it goes to a 16' wide or two singles side by side it's considered a 2-car garage which isn't allowed for a house under 3,500 sq/ft if it has a 2-car attached garage. I don't want a 16' door anyway, so that won't impact me. Munster's zoning limit is 900sq/ft which is more than double the size of the **** garage I have now. My plan is to keep the garage 20' wide with a 10' garage door. I'll probably extend the length to 36' feet overall and then add a bump out that is 8' deep and either 12' or 16' long. I haven't decided if I'll isolate most of this bump out from the main space or just a portion of it for storage of lawn furniture and yard tools.
I found a company that makes awesome garage doors and you can buy them through Lowes! FrenchPorte They split the difference between solid glass garage doors and a higher-end door with windows.
This is my favorite design they offer:
On the web site they even show pictures of one of the doors with an integrated working man door. Going with a 10' wide by 8' tall door will give me plenty of room to have "barn" doors on each side that I can close over the front of the garage door for extra security, noise abatment, and insulation value.
I also found two relatively affordable screen options for the garage door so they're staying in the plan for now:
I'm planning to use T-studs' trussed 2x6s for the wall studs and the Zip System Zip R for the exterior sheathing. The T-studs might be 86'ed if their lead time is too long, but I love the design and the ability to completely fill the wall cavity with blown in rockwool insulation. I'm a night owl, especially on weekends so I want to minimize noise transmission out of the garage. Mostly for my wife's sanity, but also to be a good neighbor and avoid getting on a first name basis with the local Po-Po.
I think that covers everything to this point on the future home of Scurvy Tick Customs.
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
Ordered the tips and accessories I need from Paint Life Supply Co.
I have a 5' Swiss whip, a Titan 18" extension, a Titan HEA pressure gage, a Titan HEA 517 tip, and a Titan HEA 313 tip on order! Hopefully they order arrives by this weekend so I can buy the paint and start spraying!
Our weather is **** here like it is across most of the US. Hopefully that doesn't delay my order too much.
I think I'm going to use some Amazon gift cards to order a Titan RX-PRO spray gun and a low pressure fine finish tip or two as well.
I have a 5' Swiss whip, a Titan 18" extension, a Titan HEA pressure gage, a Titan HEA 517 tip, and a Titan HEA 313 tip on order! Hopefully they order arrives by this weekend so I can buy the paint and start spraying!
Our weather is **** here like it is across most of the US. Hopefully that doesn't delay my order too much.
I think I'm going to use some Amazon gift cards to order a Titan RX-PRO spray gun and a low pressure fine finish tip or two as well.
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
No luck on my order arriving by Friday. The earliest it will be here is Monday.
My wife and son have been out of school because of the snow all week thus far. They already called off school for tomorrow too. We'll see if they go Friday or not.
I order a Dymo label printer today, but it's out of stock until the 22nd. The additional tape cartridge i ordered for it will be here Friday. I went with white letters on clear so I can label the electrical boxes and PEX runs with it after I paint everything.
My wife and son have been out of school because of the snow all week thus far. They already called off school for tomorrow too. We'll see if they go Friday or not.
I order a Dymo label printer today, but it's out of stock until the 22nd. The additional tape cartridge i ordered for it will be here Friday. I went with white letters on clear so I can label the electrical boxes and PEX runs with it after I paint everything.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Funny how that works out, you get the consumables before the tool!
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
I'm more bummed about the paint sprayer parts I need being delayed. I want to paint the ceiling! At least I can use a chip brush and small roller to apply the primer to areas that really need to be primed. It would just be so much easier with the sprayer.
And I still haven't decided which spray gun I'm going to upgrade to. I'll use the SG2 gun that came with my sprayer for now, but it's such a cheap one I'm not looking forward to it. I did discover that the Magnum X7 can be used with all of the Graco FF LP tips they offer once I get the correct RAC X guard.
I also discovered that the Graco Pro210es doesn't have the electronic pressure control like the Ultra 395 and higher models which I consider a great thing since the control boards can be a problem and are expensive. The Pro210es has all the features I want for my upgrade in the future and I believe I can even add a gravity feed hopper for the paint like the GX19 has but the Pro210es can support up to a 0.021" tip. I may end up with a Titan 440 Impact or the GX19... I'll make that final decision when I kill the Magnum X7. I've done enough research and bought a pressure gage so the X7 will handle most of my projects for some time. I wish Graco offered a hopper conversion kit for the Magnum series.
While I'm waiting for my supplies to arrive, I've just been doing clean up on the ceiling to prep for painting. Vacuuming the joists, pulling nails, removing odd blocks of wood that have served no purpose, etc. I've touched up a few areas with duct sealer that I missed earlier or they weren't really critical but will still need to be done before a home inspection.
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
Interestingly, I had received recommendations on a few things to mix it with... I didn't like any of them, but just chilled and sipped, it's delicious.
I love the Jameson Black Barrel in an Old Fashioned. It doesn't taste like a traditional OF, but it's really good.
My wife is not a bourbon fan normally, but Saturday night she thought my Larceny and Coke smelled really good so she tried a sip. She actually liked it! Granted, by the time she tried it the ice had melted and I had added a lot more Coke because I was winding down for the night, but I was just shocked she liked it!
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
My paint sprayer accessories arrived yesterday!
So I put the extension, HEA 517 tip, gage, and whip on the spray gun.
Menards is finally offering an 11% Rebate deal again for the first time this year so I ran to Menards last night to grab the rest of the materials I need to mask off the basement. I also picked up another gallon of Bullseye 1-2-3 primer, but it was camera shy.
The rest of this week I will start masking everything off so I can spray the primer on the duct work, electrical boxes, and plumbing. Hopefully Sunday I'll be ready to run to Home Depot to buy the paint.
So I put the extension, HEA 517 tip, gage, and whip on the spray gun.
Menards is finally offering an 11% Rebate deal again for the first time this year so I ran to Menards last night to grab the rest of the materials I need to mask off the basement. I also picked up another gallon of Bullseye 1-2-3 primer, but it was camera shy.
The rest of this week I will start masking everything off so I can spray the primer on the duct work, electrical boxes, and plumbing. Hopefully Sunday I'll be ready to run to Home Depot to buy the paint.
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
My Dymo label printer showed up today.
I'm definitely impressed with it for $40. Heck the batteries are worth $5 and the AC adapter is probably $12-$15 if you had to purchase it separately like the other brand makes you do.
It won't see too much use yet, but it will definitely burn through some tape cartridges in the future.
I'm definitely impressed with it for $40. Heck the batteries are worth $5 and the AC adapter is probably $12-$15 if you had to purchase it separately like the other brand makes you do.
It won't see too much use yet, but it will definitely burn through some tape cartridges in the future.
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jon72vega
Well-known member
Good call on getting a label maker.
I got one recently, and it's getting put to good use.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
These newer label machines are great. The QWERTY keyboard and variety of tapes make them easy to use and versatile. You'll start off with black text on white tape but then white text on black tape, black text on clear tape, white text on clear tape and vertical labels in a box. You'll soon recognize that rabbit in a hole smell.
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
The Dymo unit I bought came with black text on white and black text on yellow tapes. That was a big benefit to me since I wanted black on yellow anyway. Then I ordered the white on clear tape separately. The Dymo offerings on the tapes are more limited than the P-Touch line, but they're also half the cost for each tape with the same linear footage or longer.
I'll be labeling the PEX lines with the white on clear labels after everything is painted. I'm using the black on white labels inside my J-boxes in the basement. I have one box that was never labeled and I can't figure out which circuit it's for. I'm too lazy to start killing breakers to determine which circuit it is. I'm going to print a label for it: "Sorry, I have no clue which circuit this is on..."
I'll be labeling the PEX lines with the white on clear labels after everything is painted. I'm using the black on white labels inside my J-boxes in the basement. I have one box that was never labeled and I can't figure out which circuit it's for. I'm too lazy to start killing breakers to determine which circuit it is. I'm going to print a label for it: "Sorry, I have no clue which circuit this is on..."
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
Last week I primed the electrical panels in prep for paint.
And I primed then painted that last big section of the basement floor in the utility area.
Then the big work started this weekend. Prepping everything.
That took forever and a day, late yesterday evening I got to finally spray some primer. And spray primer it did. Everywhere.
I knew overspray was a thing and anticipated it, but holy ****.
That was 1-1/2 gallons of primer. I think I greatly underestimated coverage. I only bought 2 gallons of paint for the entire ceiling. I need to go back and buy a 5 gallon bucket of primer. I'm going to paint the ceiling on the half that is primed so I can see how far the paint goes. Definitely going to try to apply lighter coats so I can get more coverage than I did with the primer.
And I primed then painted that last big section of the basement floor in the utility area.
Then the big work started this weekend. Prepping everything.
That took forever and a day, late yesterday evening I got to finally spray some primer. And spray primer it did. Everywhere.
I knew overspray was a thing and anticipated it, but holy ****.
That was 1-1/2 gallons of primer. I think I greatly underestimated coverage. I only bought 2 gallons of paint for the entire ceiling. I need to go back and buy a 5 gallon bucket of primer. I'm going to paint the ceiling on the half that is primed so I can see how far the paint goes. Definitely going to try to apply lighter coats so I can get more coverage than I did with the primer.
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
The basement is almost finished!
I have pics uploaded to Dropbox, but I need to edit them.
Last weekend SWMBO and I drove up to Purdue Saturday to visit our daughter, then drove up to Munster. Sunday we drove around some more, then headed over to Orland Park, IL. Loved OP, but the extra tuition costs made it a no go. Munster/Schererville/Dyer/St. John wasn't what we were looking for, or led to believe it was from everything we read online. Disappointed, we checked out Monday morning instead of Tuesday and drove down to Carmel, IN. We drove out to Westfield and looked at the high school as well as a lot of houses. Tuesday morning was more of the same and we decided that the area of North Indy around 86th St, Meridian Hills. Carmel, or SE Westfield is where we'll end up. Drove back down to home and headed over to my folks house to pick up our son. We told him we're looking in Carmel and Westfield now. He actually got excited about it! We have friends up there and he knows the area well.
So we'll make another trip up with him to tour the three high schools and get his input. Then we'll meet with our realtor up there so the fun can begin.
Our goal is to have our house on the market at the end of April or mid-May at the latest. I'll rent a storage unit in the Carmel area and haul stuff up there a couple weekends to stage the house and make the move easier later.
I have pics uploaded to Dropbox, but I need to edit them.
Last weekend SWMBO and I drove up to Purdue Saturday to visit our daughter, then drove up to Munster. Sunday we drove around some more, then headed over to Orland Park, IL. Loved OP, but the extra tuition costs made it a no go. Munster/Schererville/Dyer/St. John wasn't what we were looking for, or led to believe it was from everything we read online. Disappointed, we checked out Monday morning instead of Tuesday and drove down to Carmel, IN. We drove out to Westfield and looked at the high school as well as a lot of houses. Tuesday morning was more of the same and we decided that the area of North Indy around 86th St, Meridian Hills. Carmel, or SE Westfield is where we'll end up. Drove back down to home and headed over to my folks house to pick up our son. We told him we're looking in Carmel and Westfield now. He actually got excited about it! We have friends up there and he knows the area well.
So we'll make another trip up with him to tour the three high schools and get his input. Then we'll meet with our realtor up there so the fun can begin.
Our goal is to have our house on the market at the end of April or mid-May at the latest. I'll rent a storage unit in the Carmel area and haul stuff up there a couple weekends to stage the house and make the move easier later.
jon72vega
Well-known member
BoilermakerFan,
That's a nice area.
Good luck with everything!
That's a nice area.
Good luck with everything!
OP
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
Thanks Jon. It's crunch time! Our goal is to list our house on May 17th. My daughter graduates from Purdue on May 15th. We're meeting with our realtor in Indy on the 14th. There is a very high likelihood we'll be putting an offer in on our next house before we even get to step inside it ourselves. That's how crazy the market is in Carmel and North Indy right now. We might book a VRBO or similar for a week in late May so we can actually try to see a few houses. I'd just work from up there and let my wife run around with the realtor, then meet them when necessary.
I have the basement all but done. Just some touch up to do, install the hand rail on the stairs, and trim out the backside of the door frame at the top of the stairs. One bathroom is done and just waiting on the new vanity for the other. I need to tile the entry way at the back door of the house, install quarter round trim in the upstairs bedrooms, and install trim on the top of a few kitchen cabinets.
I finished replacing the last of the steel water lines this past weekend so that's done. The driveway was replaced in the backyard and I have all the fencing replaced. I need to paint a few windows and trim outside and reseal the basement walls in the storage area after I get the **** out of there. I'll be hauling that up to a storage space in Carmel weekend after next.
I've been killing the weeds in the yard and have some reseeding to do. Fortunately the outside stuff I've been able to work on here and there between other projects and that will continue for the next 3-1/2 weeks.
The stress of getting everything done is been rough, but we're staying as focused as we can and working all week long after work hours. Replacing the man door on the garage will probably be one of those things that is just pushed back until the house is actually on the market and I'll pay to have it done. The garage door opener is another item that will be done before closing, but probably not before the house is on the market.
I have the basement all but done. Just some touch up to do, install the hand rail on the stairs, and trim out the backside of the door frame at the top of the stairs. One bathroom is done and just waiting on the new vanity for the other. I need to tile the entry way at the back door of the house, install quarter round trim in the upstairs bedrooms, and install trim on the top of a few kitchen cabinets.
I finished replacing the last of the steel water lines this past weekend so that's done. The driveway was replaced in the backyard and I have all the fencing replaced. I need to paint a few windows and trim outside and reseal the basement walls in the storage area after I get the **** out of there. I'll be hauling that up to a storage space in Carmel weekend after next.
I've been killing the weeds in the yard and have some reseeding to do. Fortunately the outside stuff I've been able to work on here and there between other projects and that will continue for the next 3-1/2 weeks.
The stress of getting everything done is been rough, but we're staying as focused as we can and working all week long after work hours. Replacing the man door on the garage will probably be one of those things that is just pushed back until the house is actually on the market and I'll pay to have it done. The garage door opener is another item that will be done before closing, but probably not before the house is on the market.
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xtremek
Well-known member
The housing market is insane everywhere right now. It has to burst soon.