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Kitchen Lighting Remodel

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dsaunier

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I've used the stud finder to space the first 3 of six on the sink side perfectly. I'm gonna get up there tomorrow with a respirator and goggles and climb in 2 feet of blown in insulation through the crawl space and measure up the backside facing the range. I'll also have to remove the other 2 florescent lights after that. Then I will cut my 6 holes and drop in the cans - hopefully. The only restrictions I may have are potentially having to reroute a/c duct lines in one area. Here is the LED light/trim combo I found for $24 at Lowe's: http://www.lowes.com/pd_113539-59179-DLS02-06A27D1E-WH-F1_0__?productId=50188783. Thoughts?
 
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dsaunier

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All done. 6 total 6" cans @ 13 watts per.
 

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alfredeneuman

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Most Energy Codes have limits on kitchen lights, that pretty much eliminate incandescents or halogens for general lighting.

A certain (high) percentage of them have to be energy efficient, such as LED or flourescents.
 
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dsaunier

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Most Energy Codes have limits on kitchen lights, that pretty much eliminate incandescents or halogens for general lighting.

A certain (high) percentage of them have to be energy efficient, such as LED or flourescents.

and then?
 
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alfredeneuman

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You'd pass with flying colors. I noticed when you said 13 watts per fixture, and figured since you didn't like fluorescents then that was the obvious conclusion :)

I said it for the benefit of others, that recommended that you should have 500 watts of quartz halogens.
 
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dsaunier

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ah gotcha. I'm still curious though because the Halo can lighting fixtures say they are insulation safe. Is it really a good idea to throw blown-in insulation up against these fixtures?
 

alfredeneuman

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If they're IC rated you can have insulation no matter what type, up against them.

IC rated fixtures (Insulation Contact) don't have any holes in them, whereas non-IC housings do.
 
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dsaunier

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okay perfect. one other question... is it normal for LEDs to flicker? I noticed one or two of the 6 will randomly flicker every once in a great while. I am going to recheck the quick connects, but I'm pretty sure they are solid. I know there isn't an issue with the wiring on that run.
 
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dsaunier

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I think it might be the dimmer. It comes with a black, red, red/white, and green wire. My previous switch for these lights just had the 2 black going in and a red going in. When I hooked up the new dimmer, I just hooked up in following fashion:

Red wire of dimmer to black in wall
Black wire of dimmer to red in wall
red/white capped off
green capped
the other black in wall that was going to the previous switch is capped

Please advise!
 
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