Knife sharpeners

[vpracer]

What do you guys recommend. I have lots of different types, cooking and hunting so is there a sharpener that will handle all kinds of knives?

Lots of internet reviews and options but just looking for real world feedback. Thanks in advance.

 

[BetterDays]

I picked up two whetstones to learn myself. I have an electric one, but realize knife sharpening can be a skill to learn.

(also commenting to be able to check replies)

 

[ChefRex]

Funny, I was just finishing sharpening a couple knives with my Gatco kit, not prefect but works well enough.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I picked up two whetstones to learn myself. I have an electric one, but realize knife sharpening can be a skill to learn.

Doing it this way is definitely a skill. Like any skill, it must be practiced OFTEN before you are good at it.

IMHO, any system that holds the blade at the proper angle and includes several different stones, is the way to go.

 

[killahog]

Check out Wicked Edge .

 

[Dutchmanaz]

Worksharp. I just picked one up (the original model - they have others) and am very impressed with it.

 

[Augus7us]

Wicked edge is one of the best sharpeners out there. If you want powered there is tormek. If both are out of your price range look for the knock off wicked edge type sharpeners.

 

[Fuelboat]

Wicked Edge also, had mine for 4 years no issues with it other than it is a little expensive for some people.

 

[Gigem]

Ken Onion Worksharp for me. Sharpens everything i have, as sharp as I want it to be.

Puts a convex edge on which seems to stay sharper longer.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[ericm]

A stone and oil is all you need. Or a Harbor Freight diamond hone, and water. (get the one that's a block, it will be easier to use than the set of three flat hones).

The hones are nearly as good as a good set of coarse and fine stones, and make less mess.

It's super easy to sharpen knives on a stone/hone, and it gets them a lot sharper than any sharpener I've tried.

 

[shoot summ]

I've been on a sharpening kick lately. Use my 1x30 belt sander with various grit belts up to 2000 if needed, and a leather strop belt. All of our knives are as sharp as I want them to be. Seems that touching up the edge with a 400 grit belt and stropping will get it sharp enough. I like to at least go up to 1000 grit though. I have no hair on my arms after sharpening every knife in the house...

I can do a kitchen knife in a couple of minutes, 3 swipes each side with the 400, 3 swipes with the strop. Almost takes longer to change the belt than anything else.

 

[Blind1]

I use a spyderco sharpmaker on everything.

 

[vpracer]

Thanks for the feedback. I will chase down a wicked edge. Those look very nice. Their website says out of stock but also says a sale is coming soon.

 

[jshillin]

Ken Onion Work Sharp is what I've had the best luck with. I have a Lansky setup also and it works fine, but I prefer the KO.

 

[brianh]

Arkansas stone is my favorite along with a leather strop powered or an old belt, stropping gets microscopic bits and polishes the edge. I can shave hair when done.

I use diamond and Japanese water stones but the Arkansas is used the most.

 

[gtsgarage]

Ken Onion Work Sharp is what I've had the best luck with. I have a Lansky setup also and it works fine, but I prefer the KO.

KO is what I have too!

 

[TMcCay]

TSPROF for me. I love that I can use just about any stone I want. I can make very small changes to the angles and very easy to make micro bevels if I want. Easy to setup and use. It was pricey though.

 

[BetterDays]

A stone and oil is all you need. Or a Harbor Freight diamond hone, and water. (get the one that's a block, it will be easier to use than the set of three flat hones).

The hones are nearly as good as a good set of coarse and fine stones, and make less mess.

It's super easy to sharpen knives on a stone/hone, and it gets them a lot sharper than any sharpener I've tried.

@Eric,
Any recommendations for a beginner? I have coarse and fine stones and have tried it a few times. My process will improve them, but not really make them extra sharp.

Any advise is appreciated.

 

[tradesman]

I also recommend the Spyderco Sharpmaker, I have used one for years, does a good job and pretty much fool proof.

 

[HenryAZ]

Doing it this way is definitely a skill. Like any skill, it must be practiced OFTEN before you are good at it.

IMHO, any system that holds the blade at the proper angle and includes several different stones, is the way to go.

I hope someday to acquire the skill to do the angles freehand on a stone. In the meantime, I cut three blocks of wood at 20*, 22*, and 25*, angled on both ends. I topped the angled parts with a thin (1/16") piece of uhmw, to provide lubricity and prevent scratching the blade surfaces. I clamp the block lightly to the stone (stone in its box) to prevent movement (not enough clamp pressure to break the stone, and I move the blocks to different places on the stone). I use two oil stones, each with different grits on each side. An India oil stone with coarse and fine sides, and an Arkansas stone with soft and hard sides. Keeping the blade against the angled part of the block works great. Having the same angle on both ends of the block makes it easy to do both sides of the blade without changing the setup.

 

[Cryptic1911]

We have a TSPROF and it's awesome

 

[ericm]

I hope someday to acquire the skill to do the angles freehand on a stone. In the meantime, I cut three blocks of wood at 20*, 22*, and 25*, angled on both ends. I topped the angled parts with a thin (1/16") piece of uhmw, to provide lubricity and prevent scratching the blade surfaces. I clamp the block lightly to the stone (stone in its box) to prevent movement (not enough clamp pressure to break the stone, and I move the blocks to different places on the stone). I use two oil stones, each with different grits on each side. An India oil stone with coarse and fine sides, and an Arkansas stone with soft and hard sides. Keeping the blade against the angled part of the block works great. Having the same angle on both ends of the block makes it easy to do both sides of the blade without changing the setup.

With that are you drawing the knife across the stone lengthwise? I have always moved the knife along the stone perpendicular to the cutting surface.

Most knives's cutting edges have a slightly rounded shape like the bottom of a boat. I don't know the common term for it, I call it "rocker". Pulling lengthwise you'd have to subtly change the angle as you pull to keep that consistently on the middle of the stone. Going sideways you can feel that the knife is centered.

It seems like the block idea could be useful for sharpening across the stone. Maybe just put it at one end and use it to set the angle when you start.

@Eric,
Any recommendations for a beginner? I have coarse and fine stones and have tried it a few times. My process will improve them, but not really make them extra sharp.

Any advise is appreciated.

I think the important thing is to keep the angle consistent and take your time. I often put the blade on the stone without moving it to look at/feel the angle and feel that the rocker of the blade is centered on the stone. Then when I'm happy with it, take a stroke.

Also don't worry about experimenting. If you mess it up you can sharpen it again.

 

[majerus]

Ken Onion Worksharp , it sharpens knives then you can move on with your life. Unless you want it to be a hobby just buy this thing its fantastic.

 

[exmaxima1]

I've been on a sharpening kick lately. Use my 1x30 belt sander with various grit belts up to 2000 if needed, and a leather strop belt. .......

I use a 1" wide belt sander as well. I bought an angle jig that attaches to the platen and it makes it very fast and easy.

 

[bushmechanic]

No Edge Pro suggestions?

Well, I'll throw it in there, then.

 

[LuvAZ]

I bought a Lansky sharpening kit about 20 years ago and never looked back!

It came w/a variety of stones and angle-holders so you can sharpen just about anything- even razor blades!

HTH,
Will

 

[NETexas]

Diamond Lansky will do just fine almost every time. Trick is to finding out what degree angle the knives are shared to from the factory. If you get that wrong it will take you longer to set a new angle. Also log what angle is on what knives.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[californiaHank]

Doing it this way is definitely a skill. Like any skill, it must be practiced OFTEN before you are good at it.

IMHO, any system that holds the blade at the proper angle and includes several different stones, is the way to go.

Mostly I agree, but it's not rocket science. You just need a bit of extra care and patience the first few times - and maybe you should practise with that old carver before you work on your fancy Japanese chef's knife. There are a lot of sharp edged tools in the shop, and basic 'whetstone skills' really pay off over time.

 

[shoot summ]

I use a 1" wide belt sander as well. I bought an angle jig that attaches to the platen and it makes it very fast and easy.

I tried that, don't like that the belt is running against the blade though. I've gotten really good at doing them without a guide.

 

[sreeb]

edge-pro knock off

 

[exmaxima1]

I tried that, don't like that the belt is running against the blade though. I've gotten really good at doing them without a guide.

I know what you mean, but my homemade sander has a reversing switch so I can keep the blade from snagging the belt.

 

[shoot summ]

I know what you mean, but my homemade sander has a reversing switch so I can keep the blade from snagging the belt.

Nice!! Did you build it off of plans? If so would you mind sharing the details?

Thanks

 

[bushmechanic]

edge-pro knock off

Edge-Pro sharpening systems are pretty darn great:

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Check out Wicked Edge .

Really, really good, but too spendy for me. I did a lot of research earlier this year before I upgraded from my old Lansky kit. I ended up getting an Edge Pro Apex 4 kit. Best system (other than the Wicked Edge) I've used. The Wicked Edge Go is very close in price to the Edge Pro Apex 4, but once I added the cost of all the additional stones I'd want, the price went way up. When I hit the lottery I'll get a Wicked Edge. KME makes a good kit, too. It's kind of a melding of the WE and EP systems.

https://www.edgeproinc.com/?gclid=C...hkK7LQeV9OREN6xDOOHlR7epfP5CfFEAaAnJeEALw_wcB

https://www.kmesharp.com/

Tommy

 

[bushmechanic]

We have a TSPROF and it's awesome

Those are indeed awesome.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

We have a TSPROF and it's awesome

OK, I changed my mind. When I hit the lottery I'm getting a TSPROF.

Tommy

 

[sreeb]

Edge-Pro sharpening systems are pretty darn great:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Profession...010252?hash=item5b7df19ccc:g:sCEAAOSwoqFeCOnE

 

[gtsgarage]

Ken Onion Worksharp , it sharpens knives then you can move on with your life. Unless you want it to be a hobby just buy this thing its fantastic.

Well said. Does the job well and easy to use.

 

[bushmechanic]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Profession...010252?hash=item5b7df19ccc:g:sCEAAOSwoqFeCOnE

Well, buy that one then. Either way it's a great design.

 

[HenryAZ]

With that are you drawing the knife across the stone lengthwise? I have always moved the knife along the stone perpendicular to the cutting surface.

Most knives's cutting edges have a slightly rounded shape like the bottom of a boat. I don't know the common term for it, I call it "rocker". Pulling lengthwise you'd have to subtly change the angle as you pull to keep that consistently on the middle of the stone. Going sideways you can feel that the knife is centered.

It seems like the block idea could be useful for sharpening across the stone. Maybe just put it at one end and use it to set the angle when you start.

I am drawing the knife across the stone, exactly perpendicular to the stone, and following the curve of the blade as I go. On a really long blade, I will break it into sections, as I get better results than drawing a long, curved blade in one stroke.

I used to work (for 25 years) in a custom millwork shop, and this action is very similar to working radius pieces on a shaper, face of the piece against the cutters, where you have to keep the part of the workpiece that is in contact with the cutters exactly where the spindle is as you "roll" the workpiece around. I did that type of work freehand, with only springs to hold the work lightly against the fence.

I am still experimenting and hope to move towards not using the blocks. Yesterday I tried using slipstones (about 4" long), freehand along the blade edge, with the blade resting on a clamped down piece of 2x material. That worked surprisingly well. Having done my own pocket knives, my wife is throwing all her kitchen knives and scissors at me now, so I have a good supply to learn on.

Sharpening Supplies is a good resource for all types of stones and sharpening equipment, including all of the brands of sharpeners mentioned in this thread. I don't know if they are the cheapest, but they are a responsive small business and a pleasure to work with.