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Knocked out a quick upgrade for the lathe

kazlx

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Had a piece of mystery steel laying around. I got tired of using a wrench to tighten and loosen the top nut on my tool post. I made a new one and cut down a handle I got in a box of parts. I think it was off of a drill press. Anyway, much nicer to be able to just grab a handle instead of a wrench.

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Ign

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Cool, did you test fit to figure out where it would snug down so it wouldn't end up clocked toward the headstock?
 
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kazlx

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Yea, I just threaded it on and marked it. I also wasn't planning on having the hole come through the top but I was an idiot and cut the taper first.
 

KenS

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Was it a coincidence that both balls were red, or did you make two to match?
 
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kazlx

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I used a tap. I can drill and tap one for you if you want. It's metric...M14x1.5. The handle I had was already black with the red ball that matched. It's actually what gave me the idea to make one.
 
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kazlx

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Hey Kevin, is there anything I can do to improve my finish in steel? I think this was 1018, but not sure. When I tried to take a finishing pass, the finish came out worse than just a straight 10 thou or more cut. My small Logan lathe...
 

OccupantRJ

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I am sure Kevin can give you some valuable input, but if you don't mind me chiming in, I will give you some things to consider. When you take a cut of say .010, the tool bit is cutting while being pushed away from the lathe centerline. Since the tool bit is being moved along during this pressure phase, some burnishing of the surface is being done, due to the fact that the rigidity of the lathe toolpost is always trying to return to it's set position. Burnishing gives a somewhat smooth finish. When you then take a pass of just a few thousandths, the toolpost pressure applied by the cutting is less, letting the toolpost and cutting tool surge in a variable motion, therefore resulting in a finish similar to that of a vinyl music record. This is why a slightly radiused point on the cutting tool gives a smoother finish. Try this experiment. Turn a rod about 2" length or so. At end of the cut, stop the lathe, then crank the carriage back to the starting point. See the scribe mark created on the material? Now move the carriage back to the end of the cut. Rotate the stock by hand to a fresh surface on the turned part. Again crank the carriage back to the starting point, but this time, tug slighty on the toolpost with one hand while cranking the carriage with the other. Notice now how there is no scribed line on the part? This is due to flex in the machine. It is also the reason that the more rigid a machine tool is, the better. I hope all this makes sense to you.
 
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Kevin54

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Hey Kevin, is there anything I can do to improve my finish in steel? I think this was 1018, but not sure. When I tried to take a finishing pass, the finish came out worse than just a straight 10 thou or more cut. My small Logan lathe...

Just what Occupant stated. He is spot on the money :thumbup::thumbup:
 
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kazlx

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So am I better off just trying to hit my numbers with a bigger pass and not leaving room for a finish pass? It makes sense what you guys are saying since those are exactly what the surfaces look like. A 'finish' pass made it look and feel rougher.
 

OccupantRJ

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So am I better off just trying to hit my numbers with a bigger pass and not leaving room for a finish pass? It makes sense what you guys are saying since those are exactly what the surfaces look like. A 'finish' pass made it look and feel rougher.

Depending on the quality and wear on the lathe, you may be able to do this. If the accuracy of the lathe is not quite there, there is no rule that you cannot polish the last thou or so with some shop abrasive roll, especially if you are in a home shop situation, where the only one you have to please is yourself. You work to the tolerances and finishes dictated to you. If you are the dictator, you can rule your world as you see fit. My personal rule is "don't beat yourself up." Life does enough of that for you.
 

waggie

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I used a tap. I can drill and tap one for you if you want. It's metric...M14x1.5. The handle I had was already black with the red ball that matched. It's actually what gave me the idea to make one.

i think the biggest tap i got is m14x1... just one more thing to pick up :eek:
 

justanengineer

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Something you might consider doing now before you need one later, is adding a couple of extra holes radially for that handle so that you can easily move the handle as appropriate when cutting to the right of the tool post or when you need to put the tool over behind the work.

Personally, I just keep a lathe wrench hanging off the nut at all times. Its easily rotated/repositioned out of the way as appropriate.
 
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