L Anchor bolts not set down far enough.

[longlv85]

Hi All,

Needed your advice. Just had a 16x30 Monolith foundation poured for our future garage. Forgot to mention that this will be a TuffShed Garage so can't make changes. Took a few months to get approved sadly.

The concrete guy didn't set the L bolt down far enough. His reasoning was he thought I was doing double bottom plate. I double check the building plans and see that it just single plate.

So now the issue is there isnt enough threads for the nut and washer to reach.
I tried to run a 1/2-13 die but the diameter of L bolt is more narrow than threads above. So once the nut gets to the new thread it just falls.

My thoughs where
1.) Have then cut a block for each anchor
Or
2.) Use couplers instead of normal nut

 

[Jakemedic]

Can you have the specs changed to a double bottom plate? Otherwise, a block for each anchor would work as well. May want to ensure the threads are long enough for 2 2x4’s. Good luck sir!

 

[Zeke]

Blocks are the answer. ^^^^

 

[The Cobbler]

scraps of 2x with a hole for a spacer

 

[nadogail]

If the diameter of the bolt below the threads is too small to cut new threads to securely tighten the nut, why not use a coupling nut and thick washers?

 

[The Cobbler]

or just use a double plate .

 

[mike93lx]

I think your blocks will need to be fairly wide to avoid splitting them. If a double bottom plate is doable, I'd try to go that way. Only the bottom layer needs to be PT.

This could also allow you do set the mudsill with foam and sealant, then place the fully assembled wall on top, which may be easier than messing with the foam while handling the whole wall assembly

 

[jack stand]

64 more feet of lumber? Jeez man just put the green plate down first and buy 6 more kd 16 footers and have a better building.

 

[Half-fast eddie]

The obvious question is … are the bolts set far enough into the concrete to develop the specified strength?

 

[longlv85]

64 more feet of lumber? Jeez man just put the green plate down first and buy 6 more kd 16 footers and have a better building.

I wish it were that easy. Tuffshed is building it and getting last minute changes might require zoning and building approval agian. It was a nightmare to even get this far.

 

[Walkers]

Just add a doubler to the top of the plate running from one stud to the next. Other option is to cut them off and epoxy some new ones in.

 

[longlv85]

I will see if they can modify the plans. If not sounds like a 2x4 spacer is my next best solution. Thanks all for the advice. Looking forward to learning more and sharing my project once it is all done.

 

[BillK]

How about just putting some round spacers on the bolt before the nut ???? Something like this but it does not need to be this expensive.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[mike93lx]

How about just putting some round spacers on the bolt before the nut ???? Something like this but it does not need to be this expensive.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

It would have to have a much larger OD to work and I would be surprised if that was allowed by an inspector

 

[dfiler2]

I've seen a few times where they just cut a block the full width of the stud bay.

 

[BillK]

It would have to have a much larger OD to work and I would be surprised if that was allowed by an inspector

As long as the spacer was the same od as the nut I dont see what difference it would make. The one I showed was just for an example. Personally I would rather have the spacer compared to another piece of wood. the spacer wont compress. It would have to be approved by the inspector and I don't know what they would say.

I think a call to Tuffshed might be in order too. I'm sure they have run into this before and would know what to do. Especially if they are actually building it.

 

[billconner]

It would have to have a much larger OD to work and I would be surprised if that was allowed by an inspector

It would seem to only need to be as big as the nut, to put pressure on the washer. I thought pieces of 1/2" galvanized schedule 40 against the washer would be sufficient. Or get the washers liked used in a portal frame - 3 x 3 x 1/4 plates. Simple and not bad looking.

 

[mike93lx]

It would seem to only need to be as big as the nut, to put pressure on the washer. I thought pieces of 1/2" galvanized schedule 40 against the washer would be sufficient. Or get the washers liked used in a portal frame - 3 x 3 x 1/4 plates. Simple and not bad looking.

Yeah, fair enough. I was being dumb and didn't think of the washer below it.

I still wonder if it would pass an inspection. Not sure if there is an allowable limit to the "washer length"

 

[619DioFan]

Is the shed being delivered assembled? Be pretty hard to add a second bottom plate , making a spacer out of wood is my suggestion.

 

[mike93lx]

Is the shed being delivered assembled? Be pretty hard to add a second bottom plate

Why? He could just install a plate now then they place the shed on that instead of the concrete

 

[longlv85]

Why? He could just install a plate now then they place the shed on that instead of the concrete

If I installed a place now It would put me over the max allowable height for the town. Which would require another Variance. If I applied now my hearing wouldn't be for another 2 months. I had to fight to be able to get this now. lol.

 

[longlv85]

So with the spacer Idea I send this over to Tuffshed to see if its something they can do. Drew it up in Fusion 360.

 

[longlv85]

Is the shed being delivered assembled? Be pretty hard to add a second bottom plate , making a spacer out of wood is my suggestion.

Its being build in their warehouse in and delivered on a trailer in sections.

 

[Sumboodie]

Double plate is ideal. PT bottom and regular top. Gives much more room to nail the OSB or drywall, as you want to keep it off the floor a good 1/2-3/4". Aside from a bit more $$, there's no reason not to that I can think of.

 

[longlv85]

Double plate is ideal. PT bottom and regular top. Gives much more room to nail the OSB or drywall, as you want to keep it off the floor a good 1/2-3/4". Aside from a bit more $$, there's no reason not to that I can think of.

Yea thats make sense. I wonder if they only do single plate because the foundation sits 6" from grade

 

[Sumboodie]

If I installed a place now It would put me over the max allowable height for the town. Which would require another Variance. If I applied now my hearing wouldn't be for another 2 months. I had to fight to be able to get this now. lol.

Wow, that's a some tight limits if 1.5" higher is something even noticed!

 

[Sumboodie]

Yea thats make sense. I wonder if they only do single plate because the foundation sits 6" from grade

Yeah having a stem wall it's not so much a problem. I had in mind it was going on a flat slab. In that case, I'd just put some blocks to take up the space. The bolts are there to mostly hold for uplift.
I've worked on many buildings that they had just framed on the slab and the only thing holding it was gravity. Generally over the years the walls tend to move though, sometimes off the slab even.

 

[mike93lx]

Any wood.in contact with concrete needs to be PT. If you can't do a double plate, blocks it is, IMO

 

[Mick56]

Cut off the threaded portion of the bolts, and rethread the smaller part

 

[billconner]

Cut off the threaded portion of the bolts, and rethread the smaller part

I thought about that but won't that kill the value of them being galvanized?

 

[mike93lx]

I thought about that but won't that kill the value of them being galvanized?

The stuff touching the PT would still be galvanized which is what matters. The top could be hit with a little spray paint if desired, but if they ruse enough to be a problem, you have major water issues otherwise

 

[Monza Harry]

Mick and longlv85, that would seem like a likely answer but these are probably a rolled thread and a non-nominal dia. If I did my math right they would be very close to 11mm which is also very close to 7/16". 7/16"-14 isn't that easy to find at the corner hardware store (possible, but maybe not easy), but easier than 7/16-20 which would be a little stronger but less friendly to cement splashes. Your diagram in post 22 is a good fix and doesn't derate the studs strength or ruin the coating like Bill mentioned. Harry

 

[strutaeng]

I used extra long j bolts for an addition I did. The framers framed their walls and used shot pins. I came behind with PT blocking (a lot of it was scraps anyway) and installd those large square bearing plates, washers and nuts.

I was going to install taller baseboards and wanted to have more nailing on the sill plates. Was slow, but turned out good when I was nailing baseboards.

 

[readhead]

Having suffered through being a Tuff shed dealer I know that they will not deviate from the plan. Have some 2x material on hand and make the spacers yourself. Make the spacer the width of the stud bay so it looks like it belongs.

Be patient. Keep in mind that the guys that show up are not carpenters. They are shed installers. It was a garage that finally made me quit Tuff shed. They did not line and brace any of the walls so when they set the trusses the roof followed the curve in the walls. Ultimately the whole roof including the trusses had to be removed and replaced by order of the building inspector. After three failed inspections they finally won on the fourth.

I’m only bringing this up to suggest that you watch the process carefully from beginning to end to make sure that you get a plumb, level and square building. One major thing to watch for is the roofing. If you are having shingles installed their policy is to cut the shingles flush with the drip edge rather than extending past. Force the issue and don’t let them do that. If they don’t agree simply show them the instructions on the bundle. Oddly enough roof sheeting damage and rot is their number one warranty claim. Also they install all the drip edge and then the felt. The drip edge on the rake goes on after the felt.

If you watch the process things should go well. Don’t hesitate to ask questions if you see something you don’t like.

 

[longlv85]

Just wanted to follow up on this thread to show the garage. What they ended up doing was cut off all the old anchors and install new ones.They have to come back and paint the trim and install the garage door.


Timelapse of the build

 

[finn]

Adding a doubl bottom plate would be a pretty big job for a factory built shed outfit. It would force cutting all of the studs shorter, and adjusting the doors, or adding taller siding / wall panels.

That’s not going to happen with a factory shed.

Just add 2x4 spacers as others have proposed.

 

[mike93lx]

Adding a doubl bottom plate would be a pretty big job for a factory built shed outfit. It would force cutting all of the studs shorter, and adjusting the doors, or adding taller siding / wall panels.

That’s not going to happen with a factory shed.

Just add 2x4 spacers as others have proposed.

The post immediately above yours shows the shed installed

 

[longlv85]

Adding a doubl bottom plate would be a pretty big job for a factory built shed outfit. It would force cutting all of the studs shorter, and adjusting the doors, or adding taller siding / wall panels.

That’s not going to happen with a factory shed.

Just add 2x4 spacers as others have proposed.

They rolled up with whole garage on a trailer.

 

[readhead]

So that was an approved change to the plans? I see that they cut off the hold down bolts. That generally requires an engineer approved change. Hopefully it all works out well for you.

 

[Wolley]

Expandable anchors seems like a good option for a building of this nature.