L handles. (Ell handles)

[jeejay]

Another little L-Handle Tool Set, more compact than a T for carrying on a bike (good reviews for that). I'd prefer the Husky speed swivel handle in this case, it's a little more adjustable for working with bits.

Speaking of swivels, that aluminum bushing from a spinning T handle also fits on my extendable L, where the extension would lock on, so I could potentially rotate that in a more compact way than a T, instead of free spinning it (where there's no momentum from a one-sided handle). It's about as fast as a speeder handle as such, maybe more compact there also (yeah, about 1/4").



Saw a similar L-handle, with a bit holder on each side, as an offset star bit set too.

So they are still featured in sets, and with more variety now than traditional square drives. As well as little bit-holding ratchet handles (not as fat as a stubby ratchet).

 

[derosa]

I have a 1/2" one, no idea the brand as I haven't used it in years, came with a lugnut socket that was double ended for 19 and 21or 17, also marked 3/4 and some other fraction. The ell has an extendable handle with a hard plastic grip on it. It always held up but once I bought an actual breaker bar I just worked better since my car is on jackstands and the lower lugnuts always caused the handle to hit the ground, the breaker bar just requires flipping the handle. I've just never found another use for it.

 

[jeejay]

A larger L-handle by Facom (K.130A) showed up in a search lately, although it doesn't seem to be in their online catalog (which is probably why I didn't notice it before). That's 3/4" double drive, and 540mm long (21-1/4"). This is somewhat long for that type, but still seems a little short to me, compared to torque wrench lengths in the same drive size, because you'd have to extend it to more than double its length to get the same leverage, and connecting an extension there would put more force on that part than if it were a longer handle extended another foot, for instance. There only seem to be ells about 30" long, which are not double ended, I'm not sure if 1" drives get longer, but saw a 30" single-ended handle on one of those too. Maybe they are not meant to be torqued on as much in larger drive sizes, or so it would seem. I saw a post on a Subaru forum where someone stuck a 4-foot cheater on them and broke off the tips of two L-handles. That might break anything in 3/4" drive though, if you jumped up and down on it (maybe they were 1/2"). I'd guess that since the 1/2" extendable type can handle torque well enough when doubling the length, then the double ended type could work as well with an extension plugged in backwards (there's about the same amount of overlap in depth on either when extended). It puts more of a downward angle on the handle though with a square drive, so the longer the extension is, the less clearance it might have.

It looks like the two that broke off didn't fail at the bend, but around the square drive (which is the thinnest part getting the highest torque, and apparently the bend doesn't weaken the bar significantly). As a general rule of thumb, I suppose they shouldn't be extended more than double length. They seem to be among the shortest standard handles in any drive size, for whatever reason (even though some are designed to be extended). Maybe that's about clearance with those having shorter handles, without a ratchet, where not a lot of leverage is necessary, or it could be for pounding on the shorter, thicker handle with a hammer (as mentioned earlier in this topic), except they don't have pounding surfaces like an anvil (I wouldn't want to gouge the knurling myself). Maybe an impact socket on a double drive type would be better for pounding on, or actually there are some "impact" L-handles out there (somewhere).

I've just never found another use for it.

I'd think a ratchet adapter could make it more useful, I've seen each of those in auto parts stores (reasonably priced, while some adapters are much more). Supposedly the ratchet adapters can handle more torque by design, and something like those are built into flex handle breaker bars as well. I found some sliding T handles recently with built in ratchet adapters too, each are a little more compact and have less compound wobble when attached to a handle rather than the drive. They don't wobble when torqued on of course, but that still changes the angle a little or a lot, the more parts are attached (I tried linking more than one extension to an L, and it was noticeably bending downward because of that).

A rigid shaft coupler could be best for extending a handle, but those are relatively expensive, compared to getting a larger tool in the first place. Since some of these tools are made with extendable handles that are hollow too, apparently that kind of pipe is considered to be strong and safe enough, when it is permanently attached or locks on, and is not extremely long. The advantage is still that it is more rigid, as a closely fitting round shaft than a square drive connection, at least in the intended direction of force. A disadvantage could be if it rotates around the connection (as a sliding T handle would), I haven't had a problem with that though (except I wouldn't rely on it to keep my balance, especially with both hands on there—so attaching an extension to the square drive could be better sometimes). I could probably file my own square drive at the other end of a 30" L handle, if necessary (not likely though, unless all else failed, and strangely even the 3/4" Draper with a sliding extension handle was 30" max). The Facom one appears to have an 8mm hole just behind the straight drive end, perhaps for pinning a round handle over the end otherwise. There might be an accessory attachment for that (K.140A flex drive, or something), except it seems the thing was discontinued, in favor of a straight bar that has pinned or detent ball to tube drive attachments.

Oddly enough, I also found a set that looks identical to the King Tony extendable L, and T handles, except rebranded in all black and shipped within Finland only (that's a first). Oh, I'm not looking for this stuff in particular, it's just that I get more obscure foreign results than anything. I think there needs to be a Toogle search engine designed to sort such things out... yes, so the select few who are interested can find all L handles, or especially ones that are available (I've seen enough of the rest). The problem was that I had to look up several different combinations of names and measurements to locate any that were widely distributed, and most have migrated somewhere else (apart from the 1/2" lug nut special), so that's to be expected. Well, I didn't expect hand tools to be hard to come by at first, imagine if the same situation occurred with hammers... could be anything. So I found more ratcheting hammers around here. Okay, those would be the impact ell handles, then. Or should I say hell handles? How about h, e, double hockey sticks... didn't search for that one yet. Or actually I think this is what the Facom handle was simplified into, because there's also an L shaped attachment for the straight bar there (which could make it a double bâton de hockey, or should I say hokey)... anyway, it consists of bars (K.125A or K.126A), with adaptors (K.200E fixed, K.140A hinged, and K.151B ratchet-ed). Yet it's still kind of short for a "truck range" handle, compared to a truck torque wrench. What the hell? Something about a highway... I might have guessed they'd be shorter for torque multipliers, but those most often take a smaller drive torque wrench. Maybe they're for smaller trucks, or suddenly have nothing to do with wheels (after they go beyond 1/2"). At least another phrase in the nomenclature has been debuted: "fixed".

 

[jeejay]

Yes, there are some referred to as fixed drive or drive fixed socket wrenches, for bikes once again. They have more of a flat wrench shaped handle, in 1/2" there (a better view of the one here, it seems that kind can be rotated, and threads together). A similar set at autozone are called low profile socket levers, in 1/4 & 3/8" (powerbuilt), they don't project upwards much like the other, and aren't threaded on. Fixed sockets are something else. Well these are all L-shaped or 90 degree fixed handles, angle handles, offset, etc. L-handles might be defined as one-piece fixed drive though, and some are 105 degree: a cursive L? Depends on the font, I think fixed fonts are monospace. Whatever the case may be, they're functionally equivalent based on angle, so a two piece fixed 90 is close enough for me. Mostly a difference in profile there, and some are probably the lowest for a socket drive handle (with lower torque to go along with that design—each of the powerbuilt kind being the same length is a good indication—not everything requires a lot of torque though, and I don't think I'd use the 1/2" kind over a wrench, besides whatever bike specific task it might accomplish).

Heavier wrench-like drive handles look to be alloy artifacts, called fixed-head breaker bars there. It seems some ratchets are about as low profile as those, although they were considered tiny at the time. I guess that was more about the drive size, as the ratchets shown there are about the same profile, and this hasn't changed much since then, other than in proportion to drive size. Of course hardware may not have been crammed together so much for this to be a consideration, and a wrench by itself would be lowest in profile for that matter.

But as far as using a low profile socket with a 'low profile socket lever' goes, I measured the 3/8" drive handle and it is smaller in height together with a 7/16" socket attached than a standard profile 7/16" socket by itself. That's pretty good then (a little under 1-1/16", including the stopper on top, and the 1/4" drive handle is about 1/16" shorter, where a 7/16" socket in that drive size is about the same height as the low profile one for 3/8 drive). The largest non-adjustable wrench I have is 7/16", and that's less than 3/16" in height or thickness, so it's the lowest profile (with a narrower and shorter handle, and a little lower torque too). I guess the socket levers are a little more obscure than L handles, since they're not even listed on the manufacturer's site, or anywhere online it seems. At least they go with the low pro sockets though (not sure why whoever makes the sockets doesn't make one of those handles too; you'd think? I'd think). They are similar to the Serpentine Belt Tool handles, which are much longer, and those come in sets with crow foot wrench sockets, so there's another option for a stubby wrench handle, which would have a 3/4" high profile (the handle also has a bit of an upward angle to give the knuckles more clearance). As I suspected, some reviews for the 24-inch serpentine handles said they broke around the drive with that much leverage, so the 5-inch long ones are probably more appropriate for their lower profile in general.

 

[Cruzan80]

Just got a CM =V= 1/2" one at a sale a week or two ago. First one I have seen in the wild. I keep a hex-drive set around for when I needed this kind of angle. Works better than a sliding T for a few applications (usually due to the L being shorter than the Sliding T). Even the hex-drive set has ball bearings for socket retention.

 

[jeejay]

I had a 3/8" drive ball detent pop out of a handle today, it looked a bit large to me when I took it out of the package. Then a socket got stuck on the drive, and when I wrestled it off, the spring and ball went flying. I found them though, and ended up compressing the spring with pliers so it was more compact, then put some foil tape on the back end of the ball, and squeezed it back in with pliers. I don't think it will pop out again, it won the tug of war with a neodymium magnet, and the sockets slide on and off more easily than before. First time that's happened. I was thinking of putting a spherical magnet in there if tape didn't work, at least it would stick to something instead of falling out.

Some of my sliding T bars have ball detents, they don't compress though. Only the one with a ratchet head compresses, for the head to be removed. So not all of them have springs behind them. I've seen a couple non-ratcheting replacement heads for T handles, so those must have spring loaded detents on the bar (or actually pictures show an indentation on the head for a fixed ball to slip past). These are most often 3/4 or 1" drive though. The heads can also be slid onto socket extensions, which could make them like a male-female double drive L handle, when it's at the end (or that's a triple drive, counting both male squares). Crossing a rubber band around the head can keep it from sliding too, or give it more resistance (some slide a little too easy, and could break a full polish finger nail).

Well you never know, I tried ordering one, and they sent me a lower quality version of the same old sliding T handle—not one with an extension bar, as pictured there (and the head was not removable, or even worth removing). So now I'm looking to get the T head by itself, and will avoid ebay all together (because they insist that I communicate with liars, based on what goes wrong with blatantly false advertising, and this only prolongs such a form of Chinese water torture, adding insult to injury, or I'm twice bitten thrice shy, not counting that they spam me for browsing too—what's next... time to quit while still ahead, drip drip drip, scam rhymes with spam, shut your trap).

In and of itself, it was like bad Chinese take out. ​

And give a monkey a tail... or he'll go ******* over L handles. But I digress.

 

[jeejay]

Teriyaki!

Looks like they're putting those T heads on L handles in Japan (kind of a U handle, or "TuL" handle).

 

[jeejay]

What else, ratcheting L handles?

Almost there...

 

[Tonyuk]

Never seen the point of L handles myself when a breaker bar could be used at 90° anyway, but im sure gedore makes them still;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gedore-61...707155&hash=item2a5f990da3:g:kToAAOSwopRYmZxO

 

[jeejay]

Do they make flex hex keys? I'm not looking that up.

 

[jeejay]

I can tell you all where to find a couple of similar sets, since they popped up out of the blue.



Socket Set 1/2 3/8 1/4 Wrench L Type Handle



Socket Wrench Extension Sets (sold together or somewhat separately for each size/type).

Actually tried one of each, as I didn't have many of those additional parts either (and some of the extension lengths are not common here). As it turns out, the second set from Taiwan are better quality handles, and the L-end is shorter on them, yet each could be useful for having different dimensions in handle lengths as well (except that the square drive on both ends of my 1/4" handle was a bit thin out of the other set from China, I'll have to modify it with something like a larger detent ball, or maybe those spherical magnets I got will come in handy), FYI.

By the way, it is possible to fix a super loose drive by improving the detent. It's kind of a long story, but that's my conclusion. There wasn't enough room for a larger detent ball in the 1/4"-ish square, or I don't think they are made in single millimeter increments, so I got the L-end working with an 1/8" magnetic sphere in there. Starting at the straight bar end, I used a round needle file to push the ball down and ran it around that hole to enlarge it, checking if a disc magnet would draw the ball out every few rotations, until it was removed. Then I screwed around with stretching the spring out, to get a sphere to stick out farther. It didn't quite do the trick. Ultimately I removed the ball from the other drive end, to push a sphere on top of its stretched out spring, and pulverized that magnet with a nail set, which made it flat in there, then stuck the other spring on top, with another magnetic sphere over it (which had foil tape stuck on the back), and squished them into the opening with pliers. This wasn't all planned, but turned out okay (I was actually trying to remove the first magnet by crushing it, because the tape holds it from being pulled out otherwise, and it wasn't quite springy enough there either, while two uncrushed springs were too much, but since one ended up flattened inside, I tried adding to that, instead of picking it out). Now it holds a socket. I just need to get more little springs to fix the other end, or could glue a short extension (or drive adapter) there, since the magnet didn't end up with spring action, it just happened to get set at the right depth for that to hold, while allowing a socket to slide over it. This might also work with spring action and tape alone, I didn't have a tiny spring assortment to mess with though (it would need a stronger spring at least). Mostly for me this was a proof of concept with cheap magnets, which are easy enough to remove with a hammer, instead of enlarging the hole any further, so it was worth a try (or trial and error). The detent ball works much better than it did, for now (I don't know if the magnet will wear down too much at some point, or maintain its equilibrium there). Maybe I'll come up with something else for the other end, a rubber plug could bridge the gap too I guess. Actually it does keep a socket on there, but the magnet holds it back farther. Toothpicks work better filed down than the flexible rubber, for a temporary friction fit. I'll probably go for another magnet in there later. The first one I put in the other side does have a little spring action after all, I couldn't tell looking straight down at it, and some of the finish wore off initially, but I think that shape has to have some spring there, or the socket simply won't slide over it (when the magnet is also high enough to stick). That should last longer than something else without a spring then.

Then again, it occurred to me that the problem with the silicone rubber (which I cut off of a scrap hot pad) was that it was too flexible, because it was like a spring. So I shortened that plug and squeezed a spherical magnet, with some foil tape on the back, into the silicone, which together squished around half of the sphere to hold it inside. Now it works like the other one, with a rubber spring instead. One problem solves another.

 

[jeejay]

Oh yeah... the Japanese one gave me another idea for mine (practically the same thing, it's from Taiwan). Of course, a flex handle would provide those angles and more, but this makes my two angle L-handle set a little lighter than it was (and adds something of a T or Y grip at 90 degrees—could fit a flashlight on there too, while I'm at it). Well, this set includes a third ratchet handle, so adding a ratchet adapter would eliminate two handles for that matter. I've also seen a ratchet handle elsewhere with an extra T head on it (I think they should add a flex head to the other end, or that's more like the Facom bar with various heads—I could slap a U-joint on this one though). The picture shows a German T head by Elofort tools, which is available separately (not attached to a T bar). It has a detent ball inside, which works as well with the grooves on this extendable combo (by King Tony tools), as far as positioning it halfway statically goes, it will likewise stay in place at the bend, because if its shape. That can be rotated in the other direction also, if the longer L is in the way of levering it. I think this setup, in general, makes it more of an eLL handle (it's like the phonetic version).

 

[Private Lugnutz]

I belive I actually bought one on Ebay - an Indestro - but cannot recall if it's 3/8" or 1/2" drive, although I'm more inclined to think it was a 1/2" - if I do have one it's lost in the morass that is called "the garage".

Does it look like this one (see Thumbnails), BK?

Note the second, smaller friction ball.

In case it's difficult to read, it's marked with slanted Indestro Mfg Co logo and 'CHROMIUM-NICKEL'.

 

[d42jeep]

Hey, that looks familiar. Below the Indestro is a nice cad plated Armstrong ell.
-Don

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Hey, that looks familiar.

What do you make of that second friction ball, Don? I was thinking a stop, but it seems unnecessary, and, there's not one on the other end.

 

[d42jeep]

I could never figure it out either. It seems totally unnecessary and adds expense during the manufacturing process.
-Don

 

[Rileysan]

Thank you Lugz for reviving this thread!

My contribution is these two Ells.

- Craftsman Circle-H Ell. I got it at an estate sale (with deep socket attached) for $2.
- Unmarked Ell with broached end to receive a drive tool or extension. I place a Craftsman BE extension next to it to show that the knurling on the extension is identical to the New Britain/Husky/Craftsman knurling from that era. I'd be interested in learning what set it belonged to!

Brian

 

[Rileysan]

What do you make of that second friction ball, Don? I was thinking a stop, but it seems unnecessary, and, there's not one on the other end.

Perhaps a re-constituted sliding T-bar that was turned into an Ell by the manufacturer?

I can clearly see the extra detent ball is farther from the end than a normal slider. I wonder if the detent ball was mistakenly put in the wrong location, so the T-bar was turned into an Ell. Considering the era, I wouldn't be surprised by any attempts at saving tool steel.

Brian

 

[four.cycle]

Does it look like this one (see Thumbnails), BK?

Note the second, smaller friction ball.

In case it's difficult to read, it's marked with slanted Indestro Mfg Co logo and 'CHROMIUM-NICKEL'.

Wow.... too long ago now for me to remember!
Second detent (friction) ball doesn't make any sense to me.
I don't recall ever having seen that slanted "Indestro" logo stamped on anything here, but then I'm still about half asleep.

 

[Danglerb]

Craftsman has a L bit driver, they call it Z-drive.

 

[d42jeep]

Here are a couple of Mossberg ells.
-Don

 

[d42jeep]

I took a picture of the ell handles from my WW2 sets and a Craftsman ell. Here is a picture of an unmarked Duro Chrome ell as well.
-Don

 

[four.cycle]

^ that Craftsman model in the third image is the one I've seen sell for stupid money on Ebay.

probably sold for less than a buck new.

go figure.

 

[Empty Pockets]

I've been to an incredible number of auctions and flea markets, (in fact, I used to work part time at an auction house). I don't remember ever seeing one of the ells in the wild

 

[d42jeep]

^ that Craftsman model in the third image is the one I've seen sell for stupid money on Ebay.

probably sold for less than a buck new.

go figure.

I'm willing to take some of that stupid money, probably right after Christmas when people have eBay cards burning holes in their pocket.
-Don

 

[davethorik]

I forgot until i was sorting through some stuff that I had this...
Stahlwille 507, 1/2 drive, 8" long, made in Germany.
I bought it at a yard sale that had a lot of random good tools years back, with the matching Stahlwille 27mm deep 12pt socket attached. There were a lot of other sockets at the sale, mostly Craftsman, but no more Stahlwille.

 

[davethorik]

Just found this one in my storage too haha, a 3/8 Craftsman double ender.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

Well this is certainly a strange duck
Who needs a hinged at both ends hinge handle?
ebay link

 

[four.cycle]

I thought it looked familiar when I looked at the photo.
That guy listed that on Ebay June 22 08:46 PDT - 7 months ago.
He hasn't figured out yet it ain't worth that kind of money.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Who needs a hinged at both ends hinge handle?

I wonder if it's a 1/2-inch drive on one end and 3/8-inch drive on the other? I know the seller doesn't say that, and it could just be the angle, but one drive stud looks smaller to me than the other. (Not saying that takes it out of gimmicky category, but it takes it out of totally redundant and illogical gimmicky category!)

I didn't come here to reply to this now several months-old post, though.

I came to post this photo, spotted at my triple early bird flea market today...

Never seen one like this before. Rubber handle, 1/2-inch drive, and it telescopes in and out. No markings. I don't collect modern L-handles, but I have to admit I thought it was kind of neat.

 

[MShaw]

Here's mine. A 1/2" drive husky I got when I worked for New Britain in the early 1970s.

 

[davethorik]

Picked up a Mossbeg a while back to go with the other 2.

 

[dscheidt]

I came to post this photo, spotted at my triple early bird flea market today...

Never seen one like this before. Rubber handle, 1/2-inch drive, and it telescopes in and out. No markings. I don't collect modern L-handles, but I have to admit I thought it was kind of neat.

I carried a tool like that when I drove a tow truck. It came with a couple flip socket lug wrenches. I added a couple more, so I had a full range. Worked fine. Not as good as a four-way, but kept it in the door pocket, so it was easier to get out.

 

[Sportsman762]

I have an old 3/8 Craftsman one. It is great to use with crowsfoot wrenches. You have no head to get in the way and the crowsfoot does not wobble around like a flex head.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Speak of the devil, a friend of mine who sent me a mess of vintage Williams Bantam (3/8-inch drive) tools threw in this B-50 L-handle. This is a nice, well-made tool!

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Plomb 5686 3/4-inch drive monster. Biggest Ell-handle I have ever found.

 

[davethorik]

Plomb 5686 3/4-inch drive monster. Biggest Ell-handle I have ever found.

Nice find! I'm pretty sure Proto still makes that model today!

 

[JjKk40]

This one i think is a Duro Metal Products? Part # 911-AB. Its a black oxide finish i believe and most likely saw little to no use. Does anybody recognize the part # style?

 

[JjKk40]

Here's an old Walden. Bare steel, not sure if it had any plating....

 

[JjKk40]

An older and younger Bonney...




Craftsman 3/8 and 1/2. I think its Moore Drop Forge =V=.....




ATCO Mossburg 1/2 drive plain steel, no plating that i know of was on this...



Last but not least is this one that is not marked by any company. Just the #227A. Looks like a drain plug ell handle or something, 1/2" male end and I forgot to measure the female end.