Large Layout/Work Tables- Anyone have/use one?

[Loose Ctrl]

Share your layout and work tables. Mine will be used for layout work, building various assemblies for my boat, upholstery work, and doing wiring loom layout. I'm sure I will find many more uses for it by the time my project is done.



I will be starting a boatbuilding project this fall. I need a large layout table, 5' x 9' x 30". The top needs to be perfectly square and be able to support my weight. My supplier can order 5' x 10' sheets of plywood in most common thicknesses. I didn't think to ask what species of wood they are.



I know how I want to build the table. I don't know how I want to protect the plywood top edges. I need to work off the edges of the table and draw layout lines right up to the edges that's why I need it completely square. This prevents me from wrapping the edges with something like stainless steel angle. The only thing I can think of is banding the top with milled 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch thick oak. What ideas do you guys have to protect the plywood edges from chips?

 

[Toomanytools?]

This is probably overkill for what you want but it has some nice features.
https://kingsfinewoodworking.com/products/extreme-torsion-box-assembly-table-and-outfeed-workbench
I would use Oak or Maple for edges and slightly round the edges so it doesn't split.
Guess I should say I'm not affiliated with the site, other than following posts as a woodworker.

 

[cvairwerks]

Go wider and longer, seam down the middle then snap a set of square reference lines down the sides and across the ends as needed. Consider the table top as sacrificial.

http://mybearhawk.com/fuselage/fuseframe1.html

 

[Loose Ctrl]

This is probably overkill for what you want but it has some nice features.
https://kingsfinewoodworking.com/products/extreme-torsion-box-assembly-table-and-outfeed-workbench
I would use Oak or Maple for edges and slightly round the edges so it doesn't split.
Guess I should say I'm not affiliated with the site, other than following posts as a woodworker.

I agree. I need my edges nice and crisp for layout. I could and probably would round the edges after the frame layout is done.



That's a nice bench in that link. I would never utilize those drawers.

Go wider and longer, seam down the middle then snap a set of square reference lines down the sides and across the ends as needed. Consider the table top as sacrificial.

http://mybearhawk.com/fuselage/fuseframe1.html

That's an idea. I need the center of the table to use for lofting frames. I need a top with no breaks or joint lines so tight and fine that I can draw pencil lines across or down them. I'm not sure I can get tight joints with the basic tools I have.



Unfortunately, the guy I know that could joint everything so I could have nearly invisible glue lines lost his cabinet making shop to fire three years ago. The oil furnace exploded late one night after being serviced. The building was gone in the 10 minutes it took him to see the smoke and get the fire department called. He didn't bother going to the shop to see what was going on. He said with all the wood and saw dust, he knew to call the FD when he saw smoke and not open any doors to cause a flash over. He is getting on in age and took it as a sign to retire and go fishing.



The table in the link was the one I was going to build when I was planning my KR2S airplane build. Then health happened and I was forced out of the aircraft flying business. Still a possibility though with the newish sport pilot rules.

 

[cvairwerks]

You could either scarf the centerline joint or build the table so that the joint can be leveled as needed. Unless you are going to be building high performance racing level parts, a small open joint at the centerline isn't going to have an effect on the lofting lines. If you are needing that level of accuracy, then you should be looking at building a wood version of a slat table, with the slats big enough to build a single frame on.

Boat building accuracy for the most part is +/- .125" and in the flight world, generally, we are +/- .030".

 

[rburke65]

I have two 30”x 96” red oak, ‘butcherblock’ type bench tops, mounted atop of 4 Knaack roll a ways. I initially thought it might be too large, but I love the size. Just built a 3’ x8’ door on it and built the front clip of a ‘40 Dodge for a wall hanger.....was glad I had the spacious bench.

 

[Jackfre]

This table is 42x96. 3 layers of 3/4. I haven’t wrapped it yet but will likely use 6-8/4 oak. The base is 3” legs and 2” stretchers from some left over metal. I like the lower rails as I can hang things across them if desired. The wooden stretchers have worked out well for level. Not pictured in the center of the table is a stretcher that I ran a piece of all thread thru. There is a 2x4” piece of metal against the bottom of the table. I was able to use that to bring the center span up to level. So far it has, been a good work table. I also put UHMW feet on it. I wanted some mobility without casters. If I unload the table I can throw a sling around the legs and move it easily anywhere around the shop.

 

[ez-duzit]

As a boat builder my primary workbench/assembly table is 4' x 8', whose top is 3/4" ply plus 1" MDF plus 1/4" tempered Masonite with a heavy timber frame. On one side it has 2 rollaway cabinets; the other has 1 long shelf set just enough above the floor to store milk crates beneath. It also doubles as an outfeed table for 2 table saws.

 

[Skiff Builder]

You'll be fine if you **** the factory edges of plywood for your lofting board, if you indeed go larger than a 5x10.
You could also loft on good underlayment ply laid over a sturdy plywood top (perhaps some of the stock you'll use later in the build). Easy to keep around if needed for reference later on.

Colors on your avatar tell me that's a Spira Int.design, w/ 2x4 lapped/fastened frames to build? Should be no problem with a pencil line over a board seam on the tolerance needed. Remember Epoxy triumphs over all!

Good luck with the build and enjoy the process.
Skiff

 

[dr_clyde]

I have two "large" tables in my shop. I have a 48" x 120" x 1.25" steel slab table, and a 60" x 96" cast iron platen table. One was custom made from scratch (see signature) and one we made a custom base for the platen.

I have made them adjustable to some degree, I can compensate for variances in the floor. They are the same height, so I can move them next to each other or in a really long or really wide configuration for big weldments.

Are you wanting a plywood top for any specific reason? I'm a welder, not a boat builder so I may not understand exactly the reasoning. A laser cut steel top will be very durable, and you can draw on it and erase lines easily.

 

[Loose Ctrl]

You could either scarf the centerline joint or build the table so that the joint can be leveled as needed. Unless you are going to be building high performance racing level parts, a small open joint at the centerline isn't going to have an effect on the lofting lines. If you are needing that level of accuracy, then you should be looking at building a wood version of a slat table, with the slats big enough to build a single frame on.

Boat building accuracy for the most part is +/- .125" and in the flight world, generally, we are +/- .030".

True there. That scarf would be a total pain to get spot on. Butting the ply would work.

I have two 30”x 96” red oak, ‘butcherblock’ type bench tops, mounted atop of 4 Knaack roll a ways. I initially thought it might be too large, but I love the size. Just built a 3’ x8’ door on it and built the front clip of a ‘40 Dodge for a wall hanger.....was glad I had the spacious bench.

So 60x96 total size?



Good use for an old Dodge front unless you have the rest of the truck to fit it on.

This table is 42x96. 3 layers of 3/4. I haven’t wrapped it yet but will likely use 6-8/4 oak. The base is 3” legs and 2” stretchers from some left over metal. I like the lower rails as I can hang things across them if desired. The wooden stretchers have worked out well for level. Not pictured in the center of the table is a stretcher that I ran a piece of all thread thru. There is a 2x4” piece of metal against the bottom of the table. I was able to use that to bring the center span up to level. So far it has, been a good work table. I also put UHMW feet on it. I wanted some mobility without casters. If I unload the table I can throw a sling around the legs and move it easily anywhere around the shop.

Those are some good ideas with the extra thickness and UHMW feet. I'm still thinking about my leveling ideas. I've seen so many I'm not sure what to use. I gotta keep to the KISS principle.

As a boat builder my primary workbench/assembly table is 4' x 8', whose top is 3/4" ply plus 1" MDF plus 1/4" tempered Masonite with a heavy timber frame. On one side it has 2 rollaway cabinets; the other has 1 long shelf set just enough above the floor to store milk crates beneath. It also doubles as an outfeed table for 2 table saws.

That set up is sweet. If I was a boat builder with a large shop I'd do something similar. This will probably be my only big boat build. I have several small ones behind me and used to do a lot of repair work and upholstery work on boats. No woodies though.



Right now, it's looking like the table will be in a back corner of my 20x20 enclosed carport. I may try masonite on top. Is it easy to layout lines on without them getting rubbed out? I've never really used masonite.

You'll be fine if you **** the factory edges of plywood for your lofting board, if you indeed go larger than a 5x10.
You could also loft on good underlayment ply laid over a sturdy plywood top (perhaps some of the stock you'll use later in the build). Easy to keep around if needed for reference later on.

Colors on your avatar tell me that's a Spira Int.design, w/ 2x4 lapped/fastened frames to build? Should be no problem with a pencil line over a board seam on the tolerance needed. Remember Epoxy triumphs over all!

Good luck with the build and enjoy the process.
Skiff

Thanks. Good points.



Yep, it started out as a Spira design. I have modified it so much that I am affraid to affiliate the end product with his name.

I have two "large" tables in my shop. I have a 48" x 120" x 1.25" steel slab table, and a 60" x 96" cast iron platen table. One was custom made from scratch (see signature) and one we made a custom base for the platen.

I have made them adjustable to some degree, I can compensate for variances in the floor. They are the same height, so I can move them next to each other or in a really long or really wide configuration for big weldments.

Are you wanting a plywood top for any specific reason? I'm a welder, not a boat builder so I may not understand exactly the reasoning. A laser cut steel top will be very durable, and you can draw on it and erase lines easily.

OOOO yeah! I would love to have a shop filled with those if I was a welder. Way overkill for my situation. Love'em.



When I was in school for industrial mechanics, we were required to take intro to welding. I have done some welding off and on over the years and I own a welder. I wouldn't call myself a welder though.

 

[kaymccampbell]

I have a 3'x8' in the woodshop, and a 6'x7', aka the lift, in the metal shop. I like the height adjustability of the lift.

 

[cvairwerks]

Loose: Just paint your sacrificial top white and when done with that part of the project, a light scuff sand and a new coat of white, and you're ready for new set of lines. Lots of serial builders in the airplane world do it this way.

 

[tarmy]

I have a couple...depending on the project...

Smaller steel one...



Larger for others projects...







Built a lot of cabinets on these tables...

 

[ard]

I restored a face frame table.

Purchased a piece of 1" thick MDF w laminate on one face (just a sealer on the other side) 60x144

Really nice surface. Great for a layoutwork table.....

 

[Loose Ctrl]

Loose: Just paint your sacrificial top white and when done with that part of the project, a light scuff sand and a new coat of white, and you're ready for new set of lines. Lots of serial builders in the airplane world do it this way.

The white coat. Can you recommend a paint that can take pencil lines well and hold them? I'm thinking a flat latex, or satin, maybe?

I have a couple...depending on the project...

Smaller steel one...





Larger for others projects...







Built a lot of cabinets on these tables...

Those are very nice. I'm digging that lower run of cabinets too.

I restored a face frame table.

Purchased a piece of 1" thick MDF w laminate on one face (just a sealer on the other side) 60x144

Really nice surface. Great for a layoutwork table.....

That's a good idea. I haven't found MDF/MDO in one inch. Most I've found is 3/4 and double sided for signs. I'll look into it more. Thanks.

 

[gtae07]

Mine has no pictures (you couldn't see it right nowwith all the **** on it anyway) but it's 4x8 and built thus:

2x6 rectangle frame. 34/" MDF on the top, with a top sheet of the white smooth hardboard as a sacrificial top (speaking of which, it's time to replace). 1/2" OSB boxes out the top part and keeps it square. 2x6 legs (in an angle arrangement) for the legs, and 2x4 or 2x6 (can't remember) along the bottom to stiffen the legs. 3/4 OSB decks out the bottom to provide storage. Big casters let me roll it around if needed.

It's heavy but has held up everything I've needed to put on it.

 

[zippyslug31]

I've built a ton of work spaces/benches along the walls of my shop and out in my greater barn space. But my go-to work area is a homemade/custom "Paulk-like" assembly table. Made it with a single sheet of MDF (so 49"x 97") with open cubbies along the front for placing tools while you work (so it doesn't take up valuable table space). Built mine the same height as my tablesaw to use as an out-feed table. Also attached it to a 4x4 base with casters in case I need to move it around (only rarely have needed to). The whole work space has been freaking awesome!
The only interesting takeaway is how I've come to use it: I find that I don't use the "cubbies" as Ron Paulk originally intended (as temp tool storage). Instead, I tend to house certain tools in each of the various cubbies: quick clamps in one, spring clamps in another, rulers/measuring devices in another cubby, and my usually go-to tools (plier, multi tool, multi bit screwdriver, a hammer, box knives, a few pencils, etc) all live in another cubby. I keep thinking I'm going to change this tool 'system', but honestly it works well enough for me. FWIW, I do mainly DIY projects, wood, and repair stuff on this table.

 

[matt_i]

Just a thought regarding lines, they can be "cut" as in scored with a utility knife if you have a trusted straightedge, or snap chalkines or pencil lines and just spray over them with clearcoat spray paint for more permanence.

 

[dg57]

Sounds like modifying a Paulk workbench might get you what you want. Layout lines would work and you would not want the dog holes in the bench top in this version.

 

[rayra]

Build a Ron Paulk -style truss box workbench top.
I paid his low asking price for his blueprints, they were very useful. I then modified the design to suit my purposes. I already used a large rolling table and had embedded my router table in it.
I built my version of Paulk's portable workbench, two long narrow truss boxes and surfaced them with the melamine-coated particle board of my old table and also cut down the leg height of that table to maintain a height match with my table saw so the rolling work table still serves as a feed support.

the other big benefit of the Paulk truss design - besides its rigidity over its span - is that it creates an under table, where you can set all the tools you are currently using, so the table top remains uncluttered.


The plain table -

and the later modified-Paulk table with a similar-design storage drawer / platform for my Suburban, then in progress.

Doesn't really showcase the table very well but conveys the general multipurpose idea of it.
The front quadrant of my attached suburban residential two-car garage is my woodshop and big project space. The rolling table, rolling work table / weldign cart, rolling offcut cart all help me collapse everything up against the wall shelves when not in use, opening up the space when I'm not in the middle of a project or three.

eta
my current table is two long modules each 21" x 84", slightly downsized from my last, which was 44" x 97" IIRC.
With a box-truss design you can make your table about any size you want and deck it like a roof. Or laminate two thin staggered layers and make it as big as you want. it you are wanting to lay out sails or something.

 

[rayra]

I've built a ton of work spaces/benches along the walls of my shop and out in my greater barn space. But my go-to work area is a homemade/custom "Paulk-like" assembly table. Made it with a single sheet of MDF (so 49"x 97") with open cubbies along the front for placing tools while you work (so it doesn't take up valuable table space). Built mine the same height as my tablesaw to use as an out-feed table. Also attached it to a 4x4 base with casters in case I need to move it around (only rarely have needed to). The whole work space has been freaking awesome!
The only interesting takeaway is how I've come to use it: I find that I don't use the "cubbies" as Ron Paulk originally intended (as temp tool storage). Instead, I tend to house certain tools in each of the various cubbies: quick clamps in one, spring clamps in another, rulers/measuring devices in another cubby, and my usually go-to tools (plier, multi tool, multi bit screwdriver, a hammer, box knives, a few pencils, etc) all live in another cubby. I keep thinking I'm going to change this tool 'system', but honestly it works well enough for me. FWIW, I do mainly DIY projects, wood, and repair stuff on this table.

hah. Eerily similar to what I've been doing. Wood chisels, straight edges, speed square, pencils, sharpener some sanding sponges and squares of used sandpaper in one bay. Bunch of hand clamps in another. Bunch of various glove types and more clamps in another. The router table and a fishing lure organizer box full of router bits and the last with rubber mallets, stir sticks, roll of wax paper and various wood glue implements.
All the stuff I use most often when I'm turning money into sawdust.
It is a nuisance, though, when I need to dismount that front module and take it somewhere to use as a true mobile workstation. Have to take all that stuff out. Made a set of Paulk-inspired plywood sawhorse legs for that module, when I take it somewhere. But it could go on top of any set of sawhorses.

 

[rayra]

Loose: Just paint your sacrificial top white and when done with that part of the project, a light scuff sand and a new coat of white, and you're ready for new set of lines. Lots of serial builders in the airplane world do it this way.

The melamine-coated particle board works very well for this. Easy to write on, make notes or do a quick bit of math upon. Little windex or solvent and it wipes clean.

 

[ez-duzit]

High pressure laminate may be just right for a table, but is horrible for a woodworking/assembly bench where it is way too slippery. Masonite has the right feel and is cheap to replace when it becomes unserviceable. A top of this material can be screwed into for attaching bending jigs, etc. For glue-ups I cover it with polyethylene sheeting.

 

[Loose Ctrl]

You guys have some good setups and good ideas.

I don't need any holes or anything in the top so the Paulk may work in a modified version. I don't need the table to be mobile at all. I'm planning to cut in a small portable table saw when I start laying on plywood and building the furniture and cabinets. The table will be in a corner. I will only have access to two sides to use for storage. So the base may be left open and some shelving laid in.

My lines will be laid down and removed as I go. Too many lines to close together to leave them all on the table at the same time. I'll get off on the wrong lines and end up with a floating snake boat, LOL. The loft lines will be for all the hull framing, keel, cabin framing, V birth framing, and the roof framing over the V birth and cabin. I may use it to help lay out some of the interior framings.

At first I was thinking lots of framing and one layer of 3/4 inch hardwood plywood. A couple of suppliers have 5'x9' ply and one told me they could get 5'x10' but it's kind of pricey. Not that any quality ply is cheap nowadays. They call and get the price right before placing the order.

Now I'm thinking I will do two 1/2 inch layers for the top. The base would be a quality AC with MDF/MDO on top and painted with flat white porch paint and sanded back with 320 grit. that should be smooth enough for laying out lines and still have enough grip that everything won't slide around on the table. I would glue everything together and use quality screws to help hold everything together.

 

[Terranova]

Google "torsion box"

View media item 67689
Made from 3/4 poplar and 1/2" plywood. That's my 220 in the middle of an 8' span (seven if you account for where the horses are) with out any other support and little or no flex. Light enough for me to move/carry by myself. Topped the 1/2" with a sacrificial hardboard top.

I document the build starting around post #200 on my thread
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256086&page=11

 

[Firstram]

Torsion box all the way. I always make all of my framing and legs out of 3/4" ply. Don't forget to overhang the top 2" for clamps.

 

[Loose Ctrl]

That is how I am building the doors (two 3x7) for my workshop. Pretty good stuff.


This morning I ordered Paulk OSP package that comes with the workbench II plans, miter stand, and cross-cut jig.



I'm still not sure what I will build but the Paulk plans have given me ideas. I'm still finishing up my building and getting other projects out of the way. I have a little time before I'll need to have something ready to go.

 

[Jackfre]

A better pic of the leveler.

 

[Chaz]

My big shop bench is 6 1/2 by 10 1/2 feet. I love it!

 

[Ray-CA]

I haven't had the need for one, but when my dad was doing auto upholstery work for some extra retirement income, he used a ping-pong table. He didn't need anything heavy duty and it did him fine for a long number of years.

Ray

 

[Loose Ctrl]

I haven't had the need for one, but when my dad was doing auto upholstery work for some extra retirement income, he used a ping-pong table. He didn't need anything heavy duty and it did him fine for a long number of years.

Ray

That's an idea. He must be tall. I'm a short fatty. I owned an upholstery shop for a couple of years. I did auto, boats, and RVs. My table's main area was 30 inches tall 5 foot deep and 10 foot long. The left side wrapped around my sewing machine a nice old Pfaff. The area behind the machine was only about 18 inches. Just enough to keep threads and other small stuff needed while sewing.

 

[Ray-CA]

That's an idea. He must be tall. I'm a short fatty. I owned an upholstery shop for a couple of years. I did auto, boats, and RVs. My table's main area was 30 inches tall 5 foot deep and 10 foot long. The left side wrapped around my sewing machine a nice old Pfaff. The area behind the machine was only about 18 inches. Just enough to keep threads and other small stuff needed while sewing.

He was 5'8"....

 

[jives]

I've got two layout/assembly/misc tables. One is an old General Fireproofing table, 30x60". I removed the cracked vinyl top and replaced with 1/4 steel plate. Serves also as a welding table. Put on a homemade wheeled base. Second is a generic Formica topped table, also 30x60, from a school that I got on auction for $5. Put on wheels which raised it up. Use it as my tablesaw outfeed table, and anything requiring glue ups. Glue scrapes right off.

 

[mike93lx]

He was 5'8"....

Good thing you clarified that 3.5 years later. Lol

 

[53Mike]

Some interesting concepts.
In my area, we have a commercial door manufacturer that generates cull doors occasionally. I've seen 48" x 120" x 1-34" lumber core with P-lam skins. They may be miss-bored for mortise locks or incorrect hinge prep. They can be had for very little.

The attached photo shows a Boos rock maple butcher block table, 36" x 96" x 2-1/4" on SS legs and HD commercial casters. Picked up at the Twitter auction in San Francisco last week. My son and I will build a set of cabinets with drawers on one side underneath.

There are a number of options out there.

Cheers !

Mike K.

 

[nadogail]

My Mother used to make Custom Drapes at home, she somehow obtained a One Piece Ping Pong Table Top, I was about 10 or 11 years old in 1948.

I guess it may have been from a local Plywood Mill, we lived in Portland Oregon at the time.