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Lathe project question

tbirkey214

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My posts come in waves, and I've been making one every week or so as i try to peice together my new home garage shop. My last post on choosing a lathe went very well and gave me A TON to think about.

Ive been looking for a smaller footprint lathe that isnt a little 6" atlas/craftsman type and found a 10ee with electrical something or other going on. I am not the most well versed in electrical, but am known for taking on projects way out of my comfort zone and doing OK or suffering for long periods but still winning in the end.

I would think the electrical for a lathe isnt too complicated since most of the business is in the gears... can anyone chime in on this and give me a little words of wisdom and maybe what I might be up against?

I know how to check spindle bearings, ways, gear meshing, but how about this electrical problem or what im not considering??? Would love to have a 10ee
 

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cvairwerks

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If it still uses thyratrons and you don't have good high voltage troubleshooting knowledge, it's not a good fit, unlesss you want to dive into a complete drive system upgrade. There are a few guys on OWWM that have 10EE's as well as a number on Practical Macinist too. A 10EE project is not for the faint of heart, but a running and functional one is a great lathe.
 

bmwrd0

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@cvairwerks is right, that would be a rather steep learning curve, and if you just want to dive in and make chips, not the best way to go. They do have the rep as a damn good lathe, but not for the amateur.

I had a SB9, and in my tiny shop it was taking up too much space. So, I am in the middle of a refurb of a Logan/Montgomery Wards 10", and I am going this way as it takes up a lot less room, especially on the back, as it doesn't use the horizontal drive system that SB never bothered to upgrade from. Look around, and keep your eyes open, something with a better fit will show up.
 
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tbirkey214

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If it still uses thyratrons and you don't have good high voltage troubleshooting knowledge, it's not a good fit, unlesss you want to dive into a complete drive system upgrade. There are a few guys on OWWM that have 10EE's as well as a number on Practical Macinist too. A 10EE project is not for the faint of heart, but a running and functional one is a great lathe.
Whats owwm
 

RoninB4

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-The 10EE is a terrific lathe for toolroom grade utility that I consider one of the top lathes for the size. I've run a couple of them and it was like driving a Cadillac, smooth and confidence inspiring in all operations.

-Now for the downside. It's an old lathe from the 40's and originally had a very complicated electrical/drive system that worked well when new. When new the electrical/drive was considered overly complex and was sorta groundbreaking at the time. The system didn't catch on and I know of no other maker that attempted it. The machine itself is top drawer so many people have attempted to sort out the electrics. Many knowledgeable individuals either got stuck in the quagmire of the OEM electrics and gave up or just ripped out the entire antiquated system and replaced it with a modern electrical/drive system.

-First hand reports state that an OEM system in good working condition operates well but most consider it to be just a matter of time until it doesn't. The example you've shown is about 80 years old and doesn't appear to have been well cared for. I think it's optimistic to consider an 80 year old machine in this condition to be in good mechanical condition, wear has certainly got to be present in the way, bearings, and slides. Parts are expensive, some unobtainable, and the wiring on an 80 year old machine could even spark a fire.

-I have a very high opinion of the Monarch lathes, particularly the 10EE but I would be very reluctant to buy a non-working model that's a project from the beginning. You @tbirkey214 stating you're "not well versed" in electrical would be seeking to accomplish what other more capable men have failed at.

-The current owner even admitted that he gave up and bought a South Bend, a MUCH lesser lathe by any measure. Keep looking for a more acceptable lathe IMO.
 

Stuart in MN

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Keith Rucker of OWWM / Vintage Machinery swapped out the electronics in his 10EE with a VFD, this is a link to the video playlist. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLbGC44mjwqreGZI_8dyNq4M8gyasb2F0j
Note that there were several editions of the 10EE, some early ones use the thyratrons but I believe they switched to different speed control methods as time went on. Make sure to find out to confirm the age of the one for sale.
 

PopcornSutton

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Ronin is correct, that 10EE is a professional tool room lathe, and WAY too much lathe for homeowner use. It's heavy as hell too. I know people that have them and love them, but they aren't new to lathes. You would be better served looking for a 10" Southbend or similar.
 

whateg01

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Ronin is correct, that 10EE is a professional tool room lathe, and WAY too much lathe for homeowner use. It's heavy as hell too. I know people that have them and love them, but they aren't new to lathes. You would be better served looking for a 10" Southbend or similar.
By that logic, lifts are professional tools that nobody needs in their home shop.

My 10ee was a basket case when I bought it. I decided that the thing for me was replacing the DC motor with a 3ph and vfd and it's worked out great. It's not a project for the faint of heart though. I don't know op aptitude but one could easily be overwhelmed by the machine. Mine has wear. That is expected in a 75 year old machine. That doesn't mean it can't make parts. I just helped a friend set up a brand new Bridgeport Mill. It will clearly be easier to use that my worn mill, but I can still make parts.

That said, I do think the 10ee is probably not a good first project.
 

Grant Gunderson

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My posts come in waves, and I've been making one every week or so as i try to peice together my new home garage shop. My last post on choosing a lathe went very well and gave me A TON to think about.

Ive been looking for a smaller footprint lathe that isnt a little 6" atlas/craftsman type and found a 10ee with electrical something or other going on. I am not the most well versed in electrical, but am known for taking on projects way out of my comfort zone and doing OK or suffering for long periods but still winning in the end.

I would think the electrical for a lathe isnt too complicated since most of the business is in the gears... can anyone chime in on this and give me a little words of wisdom and maybe what I might be up against?

I know how to check spindle bearings, ways, gear meshing, but how about this electrical problem or what im not considering??? Would love to have a 10ee
As long as you are willing to take on a project buy it. That’s one of the best lathes ever built. Lots of support for them here and on Practical Machinist. Most likely that round dial has a simple motor generator in it. The contractor is simple to re-wire and I documented it well in my thread. Same with installing the transformer. What is the build date of the machine? If you contact Monarch with the SN you can purchase the build sheet (pretty inexpensive) for the machine along with the parts schematics.... those are very informative and worth having. If you can get that lathe for under 3K, and are willing to put some time and parts into it, it will be worth far more when rebuilt. Looks to me that most of the expensive parts to replace are there. Headstock bearings, if it needs it, can be expensive, but the rest isn't that bad or hard to come buy. Post some more detailed pics and I can give you a much better rundown of what you will need and what to expect.


I think that the 'ee' in the model stands for 'electrical engineer'. If you don't have the degree then it might not be a good first choice. Here is a good thread to peruse; https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/rebuilding-a-monarch-10ee-lathe.482053/

lg
That’s my thread. The Electrical Engineer commit, really applies to the later non-motor generator units. Those can get quite complicated, but there is a vast amount of information on repairing those over on the PM forums. If this is a motor generator unit. and I'd be surprised if it wasn't, electrical parts are cheap and it is very simple. The square dials are where things start to get complicated electrically.

To the OP mine was in very tough shape to start
IMG_0273.jpeg
Before
IMG_0683.jpeg
I literally tore it down to the very last screw and rebuilt the entire machine. All new bearings, wiring, electrical, etc.
in the process I wrote an entire repair manual for it that documented every step with images. I learned more from that project than I did in 7 years of engineering school getting my degree and met some amazing people along the way. That project gave me the knowledge and skills to fix anything. I’d do it over again in a heartbeat if I ever find a reasonably priced inch/metric version or a Moore Jig Bore.

Ronin is correct, that 10EE is a professional tool room lathe, and WAY too much lathe for homeowner use. It's heavy as hell too. I know people that have them and love them, but they aren't new to lathes. You would be better served looking for a 10" Southbend or similar.
Blasphemy. Only two downsides to the 10ee is the need to have or rent a fork lift for loading / unloading and it likes to have 3 phase power. It can be re-wired to run on single phase or phase converters can be had for cheap these days. Otherwise, there is no disadvantage of owning a high-end machine. That machine is roughly 3500#'s and its about 300lb/sqf. If you install some feet under it, you can move with a pallet jack. To lift it, you want to use a lifting strap under the main support within the bed.
Even if that one works, it looks rougher than a gravel road.
As was mine, I'd think of it as a diamond in the rough. These were built sturdier than a brick **** house, and looks to me a lot of what's going on with the OP's is really just paint. Most likely it was a war machine, so the finish paint on those was a bit rough to start.

Very few lathes, including brand new modern ones can hold tolerances as tight as an 80+ yearly Monarch 10EE thats why they are so sought after. Monarch spared no expenses when building these, and at the time they cost serval times what a typical house did. They will still build them to custom order today, but thats $250K+ and not a whole lot has changed.
 

whateg01

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... If you can get that lathe for under 3K, and are willing to put some time and parts into it, it will be worth far more when rebuilt. Looks to me that most of the expensive parts to replace are there. Headstock bearings, if it needs it, can be expensive, but the rest isn't that bad or hard to come buy. Post some more detailed pics and I can give you a much better rundown of what you will need and what to expect.
I would say, if somebody is used to rebuilding old machines, 3k would still be on the high end for an old round dial that doesn't run. For a newb, I don't think I could recommend that. As you mentioned, there are parts than can kill this project very quickly, like spindle bearings.

Blasphemy. Only two downsides to the 10ee is the need to have or rent a fork lift for loading / unloading and it likes to have 3 phase power.
I used 2 engine hoists with a heavy wall tube between to lift mine off the trailer, then drove the trailer out from under it. Not something I would recommend for somebody not used to moving heavy stuff, and these are certainly the heaviest things many people will ever lift, other than vehicles. I forklift would certainly have been easier!

It can be re-wired to run on single phase or phase converters can be had for cheap these days. Otherwise, there is no disadvantage of owning a high-end machine.
Mine (early square dial) has a 3ph motor in it now as the motor-generator was in unknown condition and the controls were all in a crate, along with a bunch of extra unknown pieces. Easy for me to do, even reusing the speed control and else, but could be hard for the electrically challenged.

That machine is roughly 3500#'s and its about 300lb/sqf. If you install some feet under it, you can move with a pallet jack. To lift it, you want to use a lifting strap under the main support within the bed.
Pallet jacks are a godsend for moving these big old heavy machines!
 

Steve from Socal

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A lot of opinions here,

The round dial 10EE's are either motor/generator or Sunstrand drives. Repowering with a 3 phase motor is an option BUT, DC drives are far superior for low speed work. There were several machine tools makers that offered DC drive lathes including Lodge & Shipply, Hendy and American Tool Works AKA Pacemaker. Monarch was the first to use them in 'production machines'

There are many ways to deal with all the various drives from Sunstarand to solid state. If the motor generator works the contactor and transformer are not big things to worry about. That said they are 3 phase as built and need about 4KW or 8HP to start with a VFD/phase converter. Grant has done the Steelman conversion but that is much more involved.

As to that 10EE or any other being a bridge too far for a novice, perhaps. The OP has done some lathe work, that said even a straight novice CAN use a 10EE. Any lathe can maim/kill you, even an Atlas. The moving part is not really an issue either. I had my 10EE in my two car garage on a sloped driveway. I had a guy with a tilt bed slide it is the garage and moved with a pinch bar.
 
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tbirkey214

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Keith Rucker of OWWM / Vintage Machinery swapped out the electronics in his 10EE with a VFD, this is a link to the video playlist. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLbGC44mjwqreGZI_8dyNq4M8gyasb2F0j
Note that there were several editions of the 10EE, some early ones use the thyratrons but I believe they switched to different speed control methods as time went on. Make sure to find out to confirm the age of the one for sale.
I was so excited to watch this and then I watched it and now I'm depressed. I'm not out here saying I know a lot, I am saying I have a lot of ambition, but watching this is made me realize that this is way more of a project than I think it is. I remember working on a wave at a hacker space with a guy and it was far less complicated looking than this . I'm learning a ton by asking some wild questions on here, but rebuilding this Monarch I don't think is going to happen, even with this guy showing me exactly what to do
 
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tbirkey214

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I would say, if somebody is used to rebuilding old machines, 3k would still be on the high end for an old round dial that doesn't run. For a newb, I don't think I could recommend that. As you mentioned, there are parts than can kill this project very quickly, like spindle bearings.


I used 2 engine hoists with a heavy wall tube between to lift mine off the trailer, then drove the trailer out from under it. Not something I would recommend for somebody not used to moving heavy stuff, and these are certainly the heaviest things many people will ever lift, other than vehicles. I forklift would certainly have been easier!


Mine (early square dial) has a 3ph motor in it now as the motor-generator was in unknown condition and the controls were all in a crate, along with a bunch of extra unknown pieces. Easy for me to do, even reusing the speed control and else, but could be hard for the electrically challenged.


Pallet jacks are a godsend for moving these big old heavy machines!
I'm not going to take this one on after going through this whole thread, if anybody's interested I can give you the link to it I think this guy only wants 900 bucks for it right now
 

LXCam

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I'm not going to take this one on after going through this whole thread, if anybody's interested I can give you the link to it I think this guy only wants 900 bucks for it right now
Where are you located at?
 
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tbirkey214

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For what.. he's telling someone else where the lathe he is NOT buying is be located. Probably up to the next guy to work the rest out...
I think he's just saying for me to broaden my search area. 8 hour drive is the max I ever went for something (scotchman cold saw for a grand) but I assume most of yall think im very new in the machine game which im not but am very new to the machining side of things.
 

Steve from Socal

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That 10EE with a lil work would run circles around a South Bend, Atlas etc. You could even run it with a 180 volt plug in DC drive and it would still have more grunt than a toy lathe. There are several newish DC drives that are single phase that have detailed install on Practical Machinist. If you can follow instructions you can install one worst case?
 

Grant Gunderson

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I'm not going to take this one on after going through this whole thread, if anybody's interested I can give you the link to it I think this guy only wants 900 bucks for it right now
$900 for a 10ee. Pretty easy to make some damn good money parting it out! I’d buy it in a heart beat at that price if it was in the PNW.

The lathe in the video you posted was a square dial. It has completely different electrical in it then the round dial. You really should find out what drive system it has in it. Get the seller to send you some photos with the end cover and lower front covers off. Would be nice to have the back cover bellow head stock off with s pic too. If it’s a motor generator and I suspect it is, then the electrical is stupid simple.

At $900 you could easily put new spindle bearings in and an entire new drive system and still be far ahead of anything else around in that price range.
 

karoc

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Get it, lots Youtubes out there on how convert 3 phase to single phase. Either phase converter or a VFD.
 

RoninB4

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I'm not going to take this one on after going through this whole thread,
-I feel you're making the right decision to pass on the 10EE. The electrics and the fact that you're renting means you could be in the middle of the refurbish/restore and be forced to move, this happened to me. If faced with a move will you have another garage you can dedicate to lathe placement? Even if we ignore the electrical aspect there's the amount of wear on an 80 year old machine that few want to acknowledge. Accuracy potential of a 10EE, or any machine, is without question until wear has to be factored in. The wear may be excessive or it may be acceptable but wear is definitely present and, if excessive, cannot be repaired/restored unless very specialized grinding services are used.

-The big question is whether your fabrication business is your priority or not. Do you want to spend time/money making chips or spend time/money on a project? Could you resell it? Absolutely, there's always a market for some machines. What's best for your situation right now? For what you want a lathe to do is this overkill?
if anybody's interested I can give you the link to it I think this guy only wants 900 bucks for it right now
-It would pain me to pass on this too but something else will come along now that you're looking. Good luck.
 

Aaron_W

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The 10EE is a great lathe, but as many have pointed out the electronics can be a major issue. You initial thought of how hard can lathe electronics be is normally pretty spot on, but the 10EE has a complex electronic speed control system.

Another feature that would make it less than ideal for you, I've only seen touched on by 1 o 2 people. The 10EE is not a lightweight, they weigh in the neighborhood of 3000lbs. You've mentioned renting so it may need to move with you multiple times.


From what you've said here and your other thread it seems like you would be a solid candidate for one of the classic vintage 9-10" lathes from South Bend, Logan, Atlas, Shelden, Clausing etc with 24" between centers. Not too big, but big enough. Most are basic machines, belt drive, variable speed by moving the belts so not much to go wrong other than age and wear, and that is mostly a matter of inspection before purchase. Parts, manuals and information are readily available for most of them. Prices are reasonable, and a budget of $2000 is generally more than adequate. Weight is generally 400-500lbs so not too difficult to move and most are 120v so very rented space friendly.

People can debate new vs vintage all day long but under 12" swing, vintage offers a lot of benefit.
 

Ultradog MN

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The 10EE is a great lathe, but as many have pointed out the electronics can be a major issue. You initial thought of how hard can lathe electronics be is normally pretty spot on, but the 10EE has a complex electronic speed control system.

Another feature that would make it less than ideal for you, I've only seen touched on by 1 o 2 people. The 10EE is not a lightweight, they weigh in the neighborhood of 3000lbs. You've mentioned renting so it may need to move with you multiple times.


From what you've said here and your other thread it seems like you would be a solid candidate for one of the classic vintage 9-10" lathes from South Bend, Logan, Atlas, Shelden, Clausing etc with 24" between centers. Not too big, but big enough. Most are basic machines, belt drive, variable speed by moving the belts so not much to go wrong other than age and wear, and that is mostly a matter of inspection before purchase. Parts, manuals and information are readily available for most of them. Prices are reasonable, and a budget of $2000 is generally more than adequate. Weight is generally 400-500lbs so not too difficult to move and most are 120v so very rented space friendly.

People can debate new vs vintage all day long but under 12" swing, vintage offers a lot of benefit.
I agree.
And a vintage lathe can be moved in pieces.
Headstock, saddle, bed, legs, motor, etc.
They come apart and go back together pretty easily.
 

kmacht

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Do you want a lathe or a project? You are going to have your hands full learning how to run a lathe. You don’t need to be worrying about electronics and what's normal or what’s not at the same time unless you like the idea of a project machine. Go find a good south end 9 or 10 with some tooling and use it for a while. They hold their value so if you find you want something bigger or different you can easily sell it and buy something else without losing any money.
 

ez-duzit

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...you would be a solid candidate for one of the classic vintage 9-10" lathes from South Bend, Logan, Atlas, Shelden, Clausing etc with 24" between centers. Not too big, but big enough..
This.

In my 70's I bought my first lathe, a Logan 2657V (?) 12" x 36". It was dirt simple, had the quick-change gearbox, and came with 3 and 4-jaw chucks plus a bunch of tooling. The owner had passed. Paid $1,000 for the whole deal. Wheeled it into my shop, plugged it in and began teaching myself how to machine. :)

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