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LED Retrofit Lighting Instalation

jonathan75

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I didn't plan on doing the lighting upgrade in my garage so soon but at Costco today I saw these LED retrofit lights on sale for only $12.89 each! The sale ends on 12/29/13. This is the cheapest I have ever seen these lights for so I figured I better buy more then I need and just return the ones I don't use. I purchased 3 cases of 6 each for a total of 18 lights. Do I need more or do I have too many?

So my question is how many do you need for good lighting. My garage is around 21' x 21' with 10 foot high ceilings.

The lights put out 1200 lumens which is the equivalent of a 120 watt R40 bulb. It is bright white at about 3000K. The dispersion beam angle is 90 degrees.

The funny part is that the cans I need cost about the same as the light itself. These are the cans I was looking at. I only need 5 inch cans but they cost more then the 6 inch!

I welcome any thoughts or suggestions.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halo-6-in-Remodel-Insulation-Contact-Recessed-Housing-H7RICT/100070753

http://www.lowes.com/pd_409544-3343...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=
 

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MrMark

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How much are the LED cans that come with the light as a kit? As I recall they were about 30 for a much better set up and they were 5" I think. Maybe this is not such a good deal unless it's a true retrofit application, which yours is not. I don't like the idea of the connection method for these.

As far as sizes for pot lights, 6" is 80s, 5" is 90's and 4" is today. At least that is what a designer told me.
 
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Buckgnarly

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I did exactly what you are thinking except I used new construction cans instead of retrofit. I actually like the idea of retro using the edison style connector, as you are not limited to LEDs for whatever the future may hold. Edisons are not going anywhere anytime soon, and if for some reason you want to switch to something else you can.
I bought the Cooper LED kit though, an electrician friend said he has had great luck with them, but the do cost about 45. Looks like the one you posted is the same design though, includes trim and is EASY to install.
As for lighting, my install was an 8 x 8 mud room and two gave me great light.
 
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jonathan75

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How much are the LED cans that come with the light as a kit? As I recall they were about 30 for a much better set up and they were 5" I think. Maybe this is not such a good deal unless it's a true retrofit application, which yours is not. I don't like the idea of the connection method for these.

As far as sizes for pot lights, 6" is 80s, 5" is 90's and 4" is today. At least that is what a designer told me.

I just looked online and found some kits for around $70 but with no LED "Engine" they called it. You have to buy the light by itself which is more or less the same as this. I couldn't find any kits online that uses LED. But even if there is some in the store the price you saw at $30 is still more then $22 each I would pay after buying a can. What is it about the connection method you don't like? Is it the Edison base or the connector into the LED light itself?

I did exactly what you are thinking except I used new construction cans instead of retrofit. I actually like the idea of retro using the edison style connector, as you are not limited to LEDs for whatever the future may hold. Edisons are not going anywhere anytime soon, and if for some reason you want to switch to something else you can.
I bought the Cooper LED kit though, an electrician friend said he has had great luck with them, but the do cost about 45. Looks like the one you posted is the same design though, includes trim and is EASY to install.
As for lighting, my install was an 8 x 8 mud room and two gave me great light.

Thank you for your feedback. My garage has two rooms over it so I have to use the retrofits. I wish I could use the new construction too because I think they would be cheaper.

I worry I will drill a bunch of holes in my ceiling and I won't have enough or too many. Then if I try to change it the spacing will be off and they look strange. I plan to run a snap line and measure everything so it will be in exact positions but I still don't know how many to use.

Does anyone have access to some software that does lighting calculations? Or is there any general rule of thumb that is used for 120w lights with a 90 degree beam?
 
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jonathan75

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So after more reading I think I may want more then the nine the calculator came up with. I am thinking of four rows of four lights for a total of sixteen lights.

Around 2.5' from the walls and 5.25' in between the lights. These lights should be very bright. I probably will pull one out of the box and test it today.
 

Buckgnarly

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So after more reading I think I may want more then the nine the calculator came up with. I am thinking of four rows of four lights for a total of sixteen lights.

Around 2.5' from the walls and 5.25' in between the lights. These lights should be very bright. I probably will pull one out of the box and test it today.

That sounds good. We spaced about four feet from each can on a 7' ceiling. It's better to have to much light than too little IMHo.
 
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jonathan75

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That sounds good. We spaced about four feet from each can on a 7' ceiling. It's better to have to much light than too little IMHo.

I was reading on higher ceilings you need to space the lights further apart but use higher wattage. On paper these should be very bright. I guess if it is too bright I could always use a dimmer. I will have the lights over the garage door on a separate switch so when the door is open I don't waste electricity lighting up a door.
 

2ManyProjects

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I didn't plan on doing the lighting upgrade in my garage so soon but at Costco today I saw these LED retrofit lights on sale for only $12.89 each! The sale ends on 12/29/13. This is the cheapest I have ever seen these lights for so I figured I better buy more then I need and just return the ones I don't use. I purchased 3 cases of 6 each for a total of 18 lights. Do I need more or do I have too many?

So my question is how many do you need for good lighting. My garage is around 21' x 21' with 10 foot high ceilings.

The problem is, they don't give you the information you REALLY need to definitively answer this question; so any answer you come up with will be a W-A-G at best anyway..

The lights put out 1200 lumens which is the equivalent of a 120 watt R40 bulb. It is bright white at about 3000K. The dispersion beam angle is 90 degrees.

I saw the "1,200 lumen" claim in the box pics you posted. I also saw that they use 23 watts each to produce that output, for 52 lumens/watt -- which is pretty poor by comparison to a standard linear fluorescent tube. I did NOT see anything even remotely resembling a photometrics chart; but IF you can really count on that "90 degree" dispersion pattern, then you can use basic geometry to figure your minimum fixture spacing:

Assuming a 10-foot mounting height and a 3-foot "working height", you have a maximum of 7 feet for light to spread out from the source; frankly, I'd figure on six feet at most. This distance represents the "adjacent" side of your right triangle, and Sine = Opposite / Adjacent; so Sin(45) = 0.707; so 6 * 0.707 = 4.24 feet.

This implies that the fixtures can be spaced on 8.5-foot centers. HOWEVER, it also assumes that the light fall-off is no greater than 50% at that 45-degree angle, which we can't really count on. For a variety of reasons -- most notably including the language used to make that "beam angle" claim -- I suspect it is really MUCH greater than that, which means much closer spacing will be needed.

I found this calculator online.

http://www.recessedlighting.com/how-many-recessed-lights/

It is saying use 9 lights total. I didn't think that would be enough but I will check around more.

It's not even close.

Typically, using recessed cans will result in the overall average illumination levels GREATLY exceeding the recommended 100 lumens/ft.^2 average, due to the need to space them closely enough to avoid "hot spots" and dim areas. But in this case, 9 x 1200 == 10,800 total lumens (at the sources). Spread that out over 441 ft.^2, and you get less than 25 lumens/ft.^2 -- not nearly enough.

So after more reading I think I may want more then the nine the calculator came up with. I am thinking of four rows of four lights for a total of sixteen lights.

Still not enough.

Based on the above calculation, you're going to need at least 36 of those lights (probably more like 45 or so by the time you account for the source-subject losses) just to reach the needed average brightness levels, before we even worry about coverage patterns, etc.

Around 2.5' from the walls and 5.25' in between the lights. These lights should be very bright.

Not by any definition of "very bright" that I'd accept.

Compare your "bargain" LED kits to a standard F32T8 fluorescent tube: Not only does the latter have a MUCH better (at least for your purposes) coverage pattern, it will (typically) put out about 2,800 lumens, or about 2-1/3 times what the LEDs are claiming; and it does this on a nominal 32 watts, for 87.5 lumens/watt. If your ceilings were higher, you could use F54T5HO tubes, for still more efficiency (typically about 5,000 lumens on a nominal 54 watts, or more than 92 lumens/watt).

I probably will pull one out of the box and test it today.

How exactly are you planning to conduct that "test"? Staring directly at a light source is a very BAD way to determine its output capabilities.

I was reading on higher ceilings you need to space the lights further apart but use higher wattage.

Well, sort of.

The higher the ceiling, the more you CAN space the fixtures out; but there's no law which states you MUST do so. It's all a matter of getting the right amount of light in the right places.

On paper these should be very bright. I guess if it is too bright I could always use a dimmer.

Again, I think your assumptions about "very bright" are highly questionable, at best. So too may be your assumption about being able to dim them, even if that claim is explicitly called out on the packaging. Typically, LEDs are only "dimmable" over a relatively narrow range, and often in a rather "notchy" fashion; and only certain types of dimmer controls need apply.

I will have the lights over the garage door on a separate switch so when the door is open I don't waste electricity lighting up a door.

That's always a good idea; but it's not specific to this type of lighting.

 
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jonathan75

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How exactly are you planning to conduct that "test"? Staring directly at a light source is a very BAD way to determine its output capabilities.

Your assuming I am an idiot. I am slightly smarter then that. My testing was going to be more scientific then staring at the light like a dog. But none of that matters now because all the lights are going back.

During my very scientific test I could only get one light out of five to work. I examined the lights in more detail and determined the pigtail to be the fault and defective in all of the lights I took out of the box. While tracing the fault in the pigtail one wire even popped out of the connector. It looks like Costco got a good deal and passed the savings on. But the reason they got a good deal is because I think the manufacturer knew they had a bad lot. Costco is so arrogant and claim they test and approve everything but it is starting to look like they don't. I had to return some crappy dried up coffee beans to them yesterday also.

I appreciate your feedback and lengthy reply. I will go with florescent tubes.
 
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2ManyProjects

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Your assuming I am an idiot. I am slightly smarter then that. My testing was going to be more scientific then staring at the light like a dog.

No insult was intended. On more than one occasion, folks here have described their attempts to make "brightness" judgements based on the aisle displays at places like Home Depot & Lowe's. That is a fool's errand, and I wanted to be sure you weren't making the same (or similar) mistake.

But none of that matters now because all the lights are going back.

Good move, IMCO -- and the reasons you cited only reinforce that.

I appreciate your feedback and lengthy reply. I will go with florescent tubes.

Again, good move.

 
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jonathan75

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Again, good move.

What do you think about this one from Home Depot. I think it is the same one I have in the middle of my garage. When I first moved in the first thing I did was take out that useless 60 watt bulb and replaced it with a florescent strip. If I remember correctly this is the same one. Starts on colds days like a champ and still works like new after 10 years. It is very bright but I need more then just the one I have. It says it is 12,880 lumens.

They also offer a little shield that might help big things from hitting it. I really don't want the lights completely covered because I don't feel like cleaning out bugs every few months.

Light

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia...EBHL/202193181?keyword=247-790#specifications

Wireguard

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia...rescent-Bulbs-WGCUN/202195806?keyword=446-615

Bulbs

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-...Bulb-10-Pack-422949/203466585?keyword=159-367
 

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2ManyProjects

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What do you think about this one from Home Depot. I think it is the same one I have in the middle of my garage. When I first moved in the first thing I did was take out that useless 60 watt bulb and replaced it with a florescent strip. If I remember correctly this is the same one.

Well, it certainly would not be my first choice if I were doing a comprehensive lighting plan. But as a "quick 'n' dirty" single-fixture replacement for the ubiquitous porcelain Edison-base screw-mount, you could do worse.

Starts on colds days like a champ and still works like new after 10 years. It is very bright but I need more then just the one I have. It says it is 12,880 lumens.

That would imply over 3,200 lumens per tube, which is well above the norm. Typical F32T8 tubes are rated at 2,700-2,800 initial lumens, and maybe 2,400 or so "Mean" lumens (meaning, after the tubes have aged somewhat).

They also offer a little shield that might help big things from hitting it. I really don't want the lights completely covered because I don't feel like cleaning out bugs every few months.

Your call. Personally, I prefer "wrap" fixtures, preferably ones which use a clear polycarbonate prism-pattern diffuser, such as:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-2-Light-Utility-Light-3348-2L32W-WRAP/100654395
92eeea00-35d4-4de6-9cd6-11e57dd051fc_300.jpg


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia...hite-Fluorescent-Light-Fixture-3324/202192968
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http://www.lowes.com/pd_163697-337-WP232RLU_0__?productId=3181895
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http://www.lowes.com/pd_336745-13537-336745_0__?productId=3686312
037949005377.jpg


http://www.lowes.com/pd_384285-337-WP217RNKLLU_0__?productId=50077497
080083615506.jpg




6,500K is too blue for my taste (I prefer 4100K-5000K); but again, this is something of a personal choice. Note that those tubes are rated for 2,750 (initial) lumens, which is about typical.

 

RossABQ

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What kinds of work are you going to be doing in the garage? How much time will the lights really be on? From the plans you posted, it looks like a typical attached garage where 90% of the time someone will go out there, flip on the switch, and a minute or two later go back in the house. For that, nothing beats a couple of 60W incandescents for life cycle cost. For extended duration work out there, a separate circuit or two of T5's will do it.
 

aar0s

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If have the daylight bulbs in my garage, it took a little getting use to the blue hue that they give off but overall I'm happy with them?
 
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jonathan75

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Your call. Personally, I prefer "wrap" fixtures, preferably ones which use a clear polycarbonate prism-pattern diffuser, such as:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-2-Light-Utility-Light-3348-2L32W-WRAP/100654395
92eeea00-35d4-4de6-9cd6-11e57dd051fc_300.jpg



Thanks for the feedback. I do like the price and the looks but concerned about bug infiltration. Do you have any personal experience with this model or type? I really hate piles of bugs in the diffuser and bugs love my garage.

Update: I just noticed it is not rated for cold start like the one I have in my garage now. Mine will start in -20F. It really works great in the winter. I don't see the temp ratings for the other lights.
 
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jonathan75

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What kinds of work are you going to be doing in the garage? How much time will the lights really be on? From the plans you posted, it looks like a typical attached garage where 90% of the time someone will go out there, flip on the switch, and a minute or two later go back in the house. For that, nothing beats a couple of 60W incandescents for life cycle cost. For extended duration work out there, a separate circuit or two of T5's will do it.

I do a lot of work in my garage. Still rebuilding my air compressor too.

If have the daylight bulbs in my garage, it took a little getting use to the blue hue that they give off but overall I'm happy with them?

Are they about the same as the light from the Reveal bulbs from GE? If so I will like it.
 
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jonathan75

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Here is what I have in my garage now. Just this and the weak lights on the garage door opener.
 

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2ManyProjects

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Thanks for the feedback. I do like the price and the looks but concerned about bug infiltration. Do you have any personal experience with this model or type?

Not yet. I'm hoping to embark on my own "soup to nuts" garage re-do sometime this Spring or Summer; and thus, I have been "gathering intel" for that for several months now. However, I need to finish fixing my shore house (which got trashed by Sandy) first, and I have no idea how much time that is really going to take. That project got majorly delayed this year when a tree came through the roof of my main residence, which in turn took out my Dining Room ceiling when the insulation got too wet for the drywall to support the weight. I'm STILL putting the finishing touches on that repair.

I really hate piles of bugs in the diffuser and bugs love my garage.

Understood. But if you really have all that many bugs, they're going to get into & around open-tube fixtures, too; and a fair number of them WILL die there.

Update: I just noticed it is not rated for cold start like the one I have in my garage now. Mine will start in -20F. It really works great in the winter. I don't see the temp ratings for the other lights.

Pretty much any fixture based on standard F32T8 tubes will be rated for cold starts down to 0-degrees F. I don't know about you; but if my garage is colder than that, I am NOT working in there!


If have the daylight bulbs in my garage, it took a little getting use to the blue hue that they give off but overall I'm happy with them?

Are they about the same as the light from the Reveal bulbs from GE? If so I will like it.

In terms of ACCURATE color-rendering, those G.E. "Reveal" bulbs are more marketing-driven snake oil than anything else. See (among other references):

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/22418166
http://stereopsis.com/fullspectrum/
http://www.popularmechanics.com/tec...fluorescent-vs-led-ultimate-light-bulb-test-6

That said, the "Reveal" incandescents are generally reported to be around 2600K-2800K -- WAAAAAAY too warm for my taste.

 
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jonathan75

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Understood. But if you really have all that many bugs, they're going to get into & around open-tube fixtures, too; and a fair number of them WILL die there.

Pretty much any fixture based on standard F32T8 tubes will be rated for cold starts down to 0-degrees F. I don't know about you; but if my garage is colder than that, I am NOT working in there!

In terms of ACCURATE color-rendering, those G.E. "Reveal" bulbs are more marketing-driven snake oil than anything else. See (among other references):

I have not found any evidence that bugs made it into the electrics yet. But at least I don't have to look at them or have them block the light. It is like having a open bowl turned upside down. It won't hold any water. They bounce around any flirt with it but when the lights go off they move away to someplace else and don't get trapped. Having just the wire grate will give it that rough and tough garage look. :)

As for starting temperature I always like to have a margin for error for most things. If it is rated for -20 for starting I am sure it will start all the time. I have a garage heater but like to start working while it is heating up. I don't want to start work in the dark.

You may consider Reveal bulbs snake oil but I like the way they look. Color temperature is a very personal preference. I always prefer the warm side and not too yellow. But I don't like how HID lights look. I don't know what temperature they are but I always hated it.

I just got back from Costco. When I returned all the lights the cashier told me that they got a lot of them back already. They are mostly broken it seems. The last lot in the old packaging was fine but the new style is bad. I took that money and got some storage containers to clean my messy garage.
 
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jonathan75

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I don't like the idea of the connection method for these.

It is funny that the part you didn't like was the point of failure for all the lights.

People always got on me for not wanting to use modular power supplies for computers but I always like minimum connection points when possible.

The florescent lights will be much less work so I am happy about that.
 
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