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LED Shop Light

wquiles

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Joined
Oct 26, 2010
Messages
30
Several years ago I modded this WoodRiver LED Dual Power Shop Light (Item #149727, available from Woodcraft for $33) by using a severely under-driven P7 LED (200mA). But that light has not been "enough", and I knew that with a plastic head I was limited to how much current I could feed the LED.

So I decided to make my own metal head for these lamps so that I can get more use of them. I started from a solid piece of Al:
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I added some cooling grooves:
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And using the Nichia 219's I made two prototypes:
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I am using a frosted narrow and a frosted wide 20mm lens - how do they work?
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With their flexible neck I can get the light where I need it, but this time I get plenty, beautiful, 4500K 92CRI light:
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Here I am using one of them to cut more of the heads:
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Since these work so well, I made some more for me, and a few more just in case:
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I took 4x of them, sand blasted them, and then coated them with Moly Resin semi-gloss back:
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Drill holes for LED wires:
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And they are all done, ready for assembly:
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I have been using these for the last two days, and they are working great. The surface temp (via IR temp measurement) hovers between 100-110F, with an ambient temp of about 80F. So they are definitely warm to the touch, but not hot enough to burn you when re-adjusting their aim. As a point of comparison, my Electrix 50 watt incandescent gets to about 135F with the same ambient temp - you can't keep your hand on that one for long!


By the way, although I used the Nichia 219's here, I did build one LED Shop Lamp using the Cree XP-G Warm White (the Cree has a more throwy beam although both have the same narrow frosted optics). The exposure is stepped down (these are fairly bright!). Here you can see them side-by-side: the one that looks "white" is the Nichia:
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Will
 
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wquiles

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Oct 26, 2010
Messages
30
One thing I neglected to do was to post "before and after" pictures so that folks can see the dramatic improvements.

Stock light on the left, upgraded light on the right - stepped down exposure so that you can see the beam, but camera on manual exposure so that you can compare the relative brightness. First the stock lamp - the beam is horrible and uneven:
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Then the upgraded lamp - much, much better beam profile, plus much brighter as well:
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Now the lights are aimed at the chuck on my lathe. Again, camera on manual exposure. First the stock lamp:
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Then the upgraded lamp - again, much better coverage and much brighter:
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Will
 

Eloquaint

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May 21, 2011
Messages
25
Beautiful work! There's something about turning mundane things into functional art works that I just love. Good work with the photography too.
 
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wquiles

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Oct 26, 2010
Messages
30
I made extra parts (the bare head) just in case, and I have 4x uncoated and 1x coated bare heads (so that you can do a DIY - you guy the base lamp, buy the LED's, do the modifying, etc.). For those who don't want to procure all of the parts, I also have two completed, tested assemblies (without the black coating) available for sale right now. Details in my website - email me if interested:
http://atdms.com/led_shop_lamps.html

Will
 
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LumpyMusic

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May 2, 2012
Messages
492
Location
Phoenix Arizona USA

Beautiful job machining.

Not particularly related, what is the name for those jointed tubes that typically carry air or coolant and where can they be purchased? I want to build some dust blower thingies for my saws and DP.

Thanks -


Lumpy

Did you do a lot of those Emergency Broadcast Warnings?
Yes. Had it been an actual emergency I would have hid.

www.LumpyMusic.com
 

Coolerman

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May 2, 2012
Messages
133
Location
Paint Lick, KY
Using tools to make tools... Excellent write up and photos.

I should check out the CPF stuff. I used to make LED "kits" for the early Nissan Xterra. Glove box lights, cup holder lights and center console lights. Didn't need the high power stuff you use, just simple high power white LEDS's tied into the dimmer circuit.
 
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wquiles

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Oct 26, 2010
Messages
30
Didn't need the high power stuff you use

Per CPF standards, what I am doing is still considered low power :scared:

Some of the solutions involve an LED drawing 5 to 9 amps at 3-4 volts :shocking:

So "high power" is all relative :)

The idea of course it to try to match the LED to the application. In most applications heat is the primary concern (as LED's turn into heat about 70-80% of yt- how to remove heat efficiently. In this regard the "high power" LED's are really not that different than CPU's in motherboards - you need "enough" heatsinking in order for the CPU to run within its "safe range". LED's pretty much behave exactly the same - the larger and more efficient the the heatsink, the more power you can send to the LED without affecting too much its longevity.

For shop lights at the end of a goose-neck, their relatively small size limits the heatsink size (the head), so I tried to get just enough power to the LED to keep the head from being to hard to hold (since you need to grab/re-adjust), so I am feeding the LED about 1/2 of its maximum current (800mA is about 1/2 of the 1.5Amp max current that this LED can handle).

Will
 

Coolerman

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Joined
May 2, 2012
Messages
133
Location
Paint Lick, KY
Just found the site and did some skimming. Some of those lights are insane! A 16.1 million lux light? I'm surprised the FAA has not issued citations! :scared:
I book marked that site to go back and read more...
 
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wquiles

Active member
Joined
Oct 26, 2010
Messages
30
Can you provide more information on the black coating?

The particular coating that I am using here is called Moly Resin. It is a very tough finish, used in firearms, and hard-use gear. I have done my own comparisons/torture of Moly Resin against Powder Coating and Cerakote, and Moly Resin did MUCH better than Powder Coating, and about the same/slightly better than Cerakote. In fact Moly Resin is so much better than Powder Coating that I sold all of my higher-end Powder Coating gear and now I am exclusively using Moly Resin.

My CPF link to the testing of finishes on metal is here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?322554-Testing-coatings-for-flashlights-...


I used Moly Resin on my restored Wilton vise:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114929


You can learn about Moly Resin here:
http://www.johnnorrellarms.com/


I hope this helps, if not, go ahead and ask more questions - I will do my best to help/clarify as much as I can.

Will
 
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