To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT Lee's Garage Shop

Workspaces sized between 265 and 485 squarefeet.

LeeG

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2012
Messages
1,525
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I had a thread I did in this forum when I first joined here 12 years ago, but I was using photobucket at the time, and all the links are long gone, so I decided to start a new one. After the photobucket debacle, I started a web site for my shop projects (see signature), but for those who want stay in a familiar place, I'll cross post here. This also allows for comments. I have a thread over in the metal fabrication forum for my existing projects, but I'll be using this thread from now on.

I just updated my shop tour for 2025, and here it is.

My shop occupies a 22’x22′ two-car garage, and I typically work with the main door open. This provides extra space for larger projects and additional tool placement. Some equipment, like my Delta DJ-20 Jointer, needs to be pulled into the driveway for use.
01_From_Outside_main-1024x526.jpg

Safety is a top priority in my workshop. I invest in high-quality fire extinguishers and maintain them with regular service. My fire safety setup includes a 2.5-gallon water-only (Class A) extinguisher on the left for common fires, a 10lb CO2 (Class B/C, Model 332) for electrical and liquid fires, and a 20lb ABC (Model B441) that handles most fires but leaves considerable residue. I also keep a 10lb ABC extinguisher at the house-to-garage entrance and a 5lb ABC on my welding cart.

03_From_Outside_left-1024x768.jpg

Tucked in on the left side are my jointer and dust collector, a Cox hose reel with a 25′ Flexzilla air hose and attachments, my M18 fans, and an aluminum ramp for moving items over the concrete lip between the garage and driveway. Next to the hose reel is an extendable bar that holds extension cords and hoses. Both the bar and the hose reel are mounted in 2″ hitch receivers attached to the wall, allowing for easy removal when garage door maintenance is needed. The wooden box, crafted by my father many years ago, stores various types of rope, string, and cordage.

02_From_Outside_right.jpg

On the right sits my trusty Ridgid 16-Gallon Wet/Dry Vac, one of my earliest purchases that has served me well for nearly 20 years. My Delta 14″ band saw is tucked into the corner, alongside an M18 leaf blower. The leaf blower works perfectly for maintaining our desert landscape and effectively cleans sawdust inside the shop. I’ve replaced all my 2-stroke Stihl yard tools with M18 versions, which are sufficient for our small yard. The small bench supports my Femi Hemsaw 105ABS, an excellent metal cutting saw that has allowed me to make cuts on 2″ solid steel bar with less than 0.005″ of drift.

04_Inside_SW-Corner.jpg

This is my primary work area. The welding table doubles as an outfeed table for my Delta Unisaw. On this edge of the table, I keep commonly used welding clamps: a mix of Milwaukee 2″, 4″, and Torque-Lock pliers, plus four Piher Maxipress-F 12″ clamps—these Piher clamps are my #1 go-to option. I also keep an M12 right angle die grinder nearby for quick cleanup and deburring. Despite criticism from “professional” users, this tool is incredibly handy for almost everything I do, and I rarely need to use my pneumatic die grinder since getting it. A Wilton 4lb hand sledge stays within reach for when I need to “persuade” things to fit properly.


On the side of the table, I’ve mounted a pair of magnetic featherboards and a longer fence for my Incra HD1000 miter gauge. I’ve also installed some 20-amp, 120-volt plugs on an extension cord in this area.

05_Inisde_W-Wall.jpg

Looking over the welding table, you can see my main Wilton vise and the back of my Jet 6×48/12″ belt/disc sander. On the ceiling, I store my 8′ ladder, spare belts for my sander, and a collection of fishing rods and light plastic tubing that I use to make storage containers.


The far wall is designed to store Tanos Systainers, with a sliding pegboard mounted in front. On this pegboard, I hang various cordless tools—primarily M12 ratchets and saws on 3D-printed holders, along with my M18 heat gun and sheet metal shear. This area also holds my propane torch with its assorted tips. The shelving includes a dedicated bay for storing my collection of pneumatic nail guns.


The lower section of the cabinet houses my Milwaukee batteries, while my Steel City spindle sander sits to the right. Atop the spindle sander rests a portable band saw in a Swag Offroad stand.

09_Inside_W_Wall_Middle-768x1024.jpg

On the left stands a cabinet I built for hand tools. It houses my hand planes, chisels, saws, and other quality hand tools. The pegboard doors hold my M18 grinders, impact wrenches and drivers, and large slip-joint pliers (which we always called “channel locks,” though that’s actually a brand name). I also store an assortment of coping and fret saws, chalk lines, scrapers, and my MJ Grr-ripper push blocks.


The right cabinet was my first woodworking project—a three-door pegboard cabinet. It contains various plumbing, painting, and gripping tools inside, while the exterior doors display my M18 oscillating tool, 6″ grinder, squares, levels, and an array of smaller tools.


The black drawers beneath the cabinets primarily store consumables: tape, markers, basic screwdrivers, hinges, and similar items. The air compressor on the left was a great find—I wanted the power of an 80-gallon upright unit without the size. This compressor features the same 2-stage pump and 5HP motor as larger units but with only a 20-gallon tank, making it perfect for a one-person shop. It’s also made in the USA.


The red toolbox contains many of my machinist and metalworking tools: boring heads, reamers, shell cutters, and collets. Its smaller drawers hold multimeters, deburring tools, and other compact implements.


On the floor under and beside the toolbox are my DiAcro Model 1 bender and boxes containing welding blankets, cordless nail guns, and metal saws.

10_Inside_NW_Corner.jpg

This corner is quite busy. In the foreground sits my Festool MFT, accompanied by two stacks of systainers and a CT-36 dust collector with boom arm. I’ve gotten extensive use from both the MFT and CT-36 and would definitely purchase them again.


Behind, moving from left to right, stands my Burke/Powermatic Millrite MVN mill. While not as substantial as a full-size Bridgeport, it’s significantly more robust than a benchtop mill and delivers excellent accuracy. This area also houses my ultrasonic cleaner, a Hotshot 360 heat treat oven, and a Prusa MK3S+ 3D printer.


The cabinets are a combination of shop-made and factory-built units, containing a wide variety of tools and supplies. The upper wall cabinet primarily stores paints, solvents, and other consumables.


The red Craftsman toolbox was a wedding gift from my father and holds mostly wrenches, sockets, ratchets, and other mechanic-type tools. The blue US General box contains various items, including additional wrenches, 1/2″ sockets, and an extensive selection of 1/4-20 fasteners—my default size for most projects.

11_Inside_Shelf_Endcap-640x1024.jpg

This is the end cap of the shelving that divides my wife’s corner of the garage from my workspace. It holds tools I frequently use during projects and need readily available. Since each item has a designated spot, it’s easy to identify what’s missing at day’s end. The bottom shelf contains Sure-Shot spray cans of WD-40, acetone, mineral spirits, and brake parts cleaner. The pliers holder is my own design and works excellently for organizing pliers and cutters. You can see more detailed information about this end cap in my linked article.

06_Inside_SE_Corner-1024x768.jpg

Back near the garage door on the right stands a small bench I built years ago from scrap 2×6 lumber. I constructed it without any fasteners, resulting in a heavy-duty piece. Though originally intended for hand tool woodworking, I added an aluminum top and now use it to store my plate shear, small arbor press, and punch press. The bottom shelf holds various consumables. The entire bench is on wheels, making it easily movable as needed.


In the corner sits my Delta 14″ bandsaw. It’s a solid saw for its size and, though limited to wood only, performs exceptionally well. Next to it is a 20″ Delta drill press, which I’ve upgraded with a high-quality Albrecht keyless chuck—the entire system has performed flawlessly. The cabinet beneath the drill press stores all types of drill bits, vises, and hole saws. It’s mounted on wheels, allowing me to pull it out when I need to lower the drill press table.


To the left of the drill press is my over-engineered, over-weight materials and tool cart. The right side features 4×4 steel tube storage for various length offcuts, while the left side and top provide tool and clamp storage. I designed it to accommodate my Harbor Freight lift cart underneath, maximizing floor space. This cart is loaded too heavily, restricting its movement to a small section of the garage.

07_Inside_E_Wall-Grey_Shelves2-1024x768.jpg

Looking back toward the middle of the shop, you can see my side of the large grey shelves. I’ve standardized on 15-quart Sterilite boxes for storage. Since I dislike having to move items to access what I need, each box has its own dedicated cubby in a grid arrangement. The upper grid features a slider in front for paint can storage, while the lower grid has a slider for lathe tool storage. The bottom shelf houses a collection of 24 storage boxes for small parts and fasteners—these are my go-to containers for organizing hardware. My red welding cart sits in front of the shelves, holding my Miller 211 welder and Hypertherm 45 plasma cutter.

08_Inside_E_Wall-Lathe-1024x768.jpg

Moving the welding cart aside reveals my Atlas Craftsman 12″ lathe and the other side of my materials cart. I’ve organized a comprehensive collection of lathe tooling on a sliding panel, with additional tooling stored in the toolboxes atop the cart, alongside my 1/2″+ drill bits.

For the lathe, I have three-jaw, four-jaw, and six-jaw chucks, as well as a 5C collet chuck. The drawers below contain specialty materials—brass, Delrin, 4140 steel, stainless steel, aluminum, and bronze—plus various cutoffs of standard low carbon steel. The space above the drawers houses a large assortment of welding clamps.

This shop continues to evolve as my interests and projects change. What started as a basic woodworking space has grown into a versatile workshop capable of woodworking, metalworking, welding, and fabrication. While space is always at a premium in a home garage, I’ve found that thoughtful organization and mobile tool bases allow me to make the most of every square foot. My philosophy has always been to invest in quality tools that will last for decades and to create storage systems that keep everything accessible. Though it’s certainly more crowded than when I started this blog eight years ago, the shop remains a functional and inspiring space where I can tackle almost any project that comes to mind. I hope this updated tour gives you some ideas for your own workshop, and I look forward to sharing more projects made in this space in the coming years.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

R_C

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2018
Messages
144
Location
Wyoming
That is a very well equipped and organized shop for the space. Nicely done. Your pictures give me plenty of ideas I can use. In particular, your spray paint storage rack caught my eye. Can you share the source for that rack or is it something you fabricated?
 
OP
L

LeeG

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2012
Messages
1,525
Location
Phoenix, AZ
That is a very well equipped and organized shop for the space. Nicely done. Your pictures give me plenty of ideas I can use. In particular, your spray paint storage rack caught my eye. Can you share the source for that rack or is it something you fabricated?
The 3D models are on printables. The link for the prints is included above, but here it is https://www.printables.com/model/772108-wall-mounted-spray-can-holder

If you want info on the slider, I don’t have any photos, but I can draw it up in cad easy en.

Lee
 
OP
L

LeeG

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2012
Messages
1,525
Location
Phoenix, AZ
This is a build from several years ago that I am just getting around to documenting.

My garage was filling up, and I had some space on “my” side of our small back yard. I did some investigation, and found that my city allows buildings with no utilities up to 120 square feet to be built without a permit. That pretty much filled the space I had to work with anyway. I knew I wanted a concrete floor, but I was worried about HOA height restrictions and I wanted as much interior space as possible, so I rented a Dingo skid steer and removed a few inches of dirt from where the pad was going to be poured.

Prepping-Pad-with-Dingo-1.jpg
Out here we have a type of soil called caliche, which is basically like rock. It was all this thing could do to dig it out, but it was way easier than trying to use a shovel.

After getting the dirt cleared out and hauled away, I formed up my pad, right at 10′ x 12′. I ran some string under the forms to make sure I didn’t have any high spots, and made sure everything was square and level.

Shed-Floor-Formed-1-1024x768.jpg
I used some extra quarter-minus to fill in a few spots that were too low, and tamped it down well, then added a sheet of plastic and some #4 (1/2″) rebar. Rebar isn’t necessary, but it was a minimal additional cost and gives me peace of mind. The plastic is to prevent the dry dirt below from pulling the moisture from the concrete too quickly. We are ready to pour, with a ramp for the wheelbarrow. I didn’t add chairs for the rebar because the slab is small enough that we could pull it up during the pour, and I could run the wheelbarrow over it.

Shed-Floor-Formed-and-Ready-to-Pour-768x1024.jpg
I knew I would have some extra concrete, so I wanted to fix another issue while I was doing the pour. We have a pad behind the house that holds the A/C condenser and space for our trash cans. The corners were being washed out and it didn’t really look too good.

Original-Pad-1024x768.jpg
I dug a one foot deep trench around the perimeter of this pad, and drilled some rebar dowels into this pad, and formed up a 6″ extension of the these two sides.

Pad-Formed-2-768x1024.jpg
The rebar dowels will help hold the extension slab co-planer with the main slab, and the extra depth will help prevent it from being undercut.

I had never finished a slab like this before, and I needed less than two yards of concrete, which would have been an extra cost with a big truck. I found a local guy who did small batch work, and would do the finishing if I’d help haul the concrete – all for less than what just the ready mix truck would have cost.

Small-Mixer-Cropped-1024x520.jpg
This tow behind unit held 2 yards of concrete. He hauled the first few loads, then I brought the rest while he did the skill work. After the concrete guy left, I kept the slab damp for the rest of the day, then covered it with plastic so it could cure slowly over the next week or so.

Shed-Floor-Poured-1.jpg
After peeling off the forms, everything looked good, and ready for the next part of the build. I had some extra concrete, so I quickly formed up a place in front of the wall, about a foot wide. This gave me a nice storage area, that I figured I could find a use for later.

Shed-Floor-Poured-2-1024x768.jpg
My shed was going to be a simple stick built box with a single pitch roof. We don’t have snow here, so I didn’t have to worry about that. I like to over build, so I went with 16″ centers on my 2×4 studs. For the bottom plate, I used pressure treated lumber with a layer of sill sealer between it and the concrete. The bottom plates are anchors to the slab with expansion bolts.

3-Walls-Framed-1024x768.jpg
I didn’t get started until after lunch, but I was able to all 4 walls framed, and the 2×6 rafters set before dark. Everything was going great.

Initial-Framed-and-Roof-1024x768.jpg
It was at this point that my wife reminded me about my concerns for HOA height restrictions, and the fact that the shed pretty much towered over the rest of the back yards. I probably could have gotten away with it as is, but I decided to take the cautious route. I removed the roof, snapped a chalk line with a new lower height, and after putting some additional blocking on the studs, I cut them all down about 18″. Then nailed the top plates back on, put the rafters back on, and continued on as if nothing had happened.

For siding, I used basic T1-11 Smartside panels. It looks nice, and is easy for a simple project like this.

Redone-shorter-1024x768.jpg
Added the roof deck back on. You can see the boards I used to hold the studs in place when I cut them down.

Roof-On-lower-1024x768.jpg
For the roofing, I just used basic rolled asphalt, and added drip edges and trim on all the corners.

Finished-No-Door-1024x768.jpg
I wanted a nice wide door so I’d have no problems moving stuff in and out, so it was easiest to just make my own. I used some 8 quarter poplar to make a figure 8 of the appropriate size, and skinned it with 1/4″ plywood on both sides.

Finished-Not-Painted-1024x768.jpg
With all the major work done, it just needed a coat of paint to match the house.

Finished-and-Painted-1024x768.jpg
The back wall seemed like wasted space, so I added a storage rack for yard tools.

Finished-Back-Wall-768x1024.jpg
With it being such a small shed, I figured I’d want additional wall space, so I added a pivot wall on one side. It is a standard 2×4 stud framed wall, that is anchored at the back on a 4×4 post that extends floor to ceiling, and has wheels on it to reduce the load on the hinges.

Shed-Interior-Interior-Door-Wall-Open-1024x768.jpg
With the pivot wall closed, the heavy duty shelves on the back wall are accessible.

Shed-Interior-Wall-Door-Closed-1024x768.jpg
The other side had room for a small bench, and a light weight shelf.

Shed-Interior-1024x768.jpg
I brought in a few tons of quarter-minus so the area outside the shed didn’t become a muddy mess during our infrequent rains.

My main regret was not adding a concrete ramp from the beginning. It would have made pulling heavy loads in much easier. Other than my issue with the height, everything went according to plan, and it ended up being about 3/4 the cost of a pre-built shed such as a ToughShed.

These days it is used as more of an overflow storage unit. It is still my biggest build around the house, and I am very happy to have it.
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,007
Location
Pacific Northwest
thanks for sharing your shed build with all of us!! how long ago did you build this? any issues or changes other than maybe a concrete ramp to the shed that you might have changed or wanted if you were to build it again? since you pretty much have zero rain (or a lot when it finally does) did you buy the roofing in one piece or is there hot tar or what in between the seams? nice looking door you made too!!

i'm probably going to build a 12 x 20 woodshop/shed/shop either in 2026 or 2027 so I'm gearing up with my ideas.
 

75gmck25

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 21, 2014
Messages
1,318
Location
Alexandria, VA
I bought one of the pre-made sheds from HD or Lowes a few years ago and it gets the job done if you want something simple to fit with the local 120 sq ft limit for a shed that did not require a permit.

They showed up with it flat-packed on a trailer (four sides, base and roof), and carried the parts into the back yard. Then they installed short concrete piers, leveled them, and put the base down with about 4" clearance from the ground. From there they just assembled the walls, put on the roof, and nailed down the shingles. IIRC, it took about 2-3 hours total.

Some points if you order this type of shed.
- Area has to be relatively level because the height of the support pier options is limited. I think you can pay an upcharge for taller piers, but I'm not sure.
- I paid extra for a window that opens and more gable vents.
- I paid extra for cable tie downs that go from the top of the walls down to big stakes in each corner. This keeps the shed from tipping if there is high wind.
- I paid extra for a short wooden ramp that goes up from ground level to the shed entry.
- I had a few choices for the shingle color on the roof, but the standard wall colors are beige with white trim. We painted it forest green and freshened up the white trim.

The pre-built shed is not outstanding, but it looks good overall and and I have no complaints. The only work I had to do was paint it to the color my wife picked out, so my labor was minimal.

My neighbor bought a shed from a different place and it arrived completely assembled. Then they attached brackets with wheels to one end and slid it down off the truck and onto the street. Then a Moffett-style tractor was attached to the other end and lifted it up . They basically turned the shed into a big cart. Then the guy just drove it around the house and into the back yard. It's a good method if you have enough space to maneuver it.
 
OP
L

LeeG

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2012
Messages
1,525
Location
Phoenix, AZ
thanks for sharing your shed build with all of us!! how long ago did you build this? any issues or changes other than maybe a concrete ramp to the shed that you might have changed or wanted if you were to build it again? since you pretty much have zero rain (or a lot when it finally does) did you buy the roofing in one piece or is there hot tar or what in between the seams? nice looking door you made too!!

It has been almost ten years since I built it. We've had some pretty heavy rains, but even with only 1" of height above grade on the slab, I've never had any water intrusion. The roofing came in 4' wide sheets. I started at the low end and overlapped about 4" on each row with tar as a sealer between each.

Within the constraints I had to work with, I don't think I'd make any changes if I were to redo it. It is sealed tight, with no bugs or critters inside (I have hardware cloth over the vents).

I did add a piece of aluminum diamond plate to the door. I have a tendency to kick it closed and it was getting beat up.



Lee
 
OP
L

LeeG

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2012
Messages
1,525
Location
Phoenix, AZ
About a year after I started welding, I finally got tired of dealing with 10′ sticks of flat bar, angle, pipe, and square tubing, so I decided to turn this pad I made during my shed build into something useful.

StartingPad-901x1024.jpg
My big limiting factor was that I couldn’t use the wall for anything structural. It is as flimsy as a block wall can be (I can shake it and it moves). I came up with a design that transfers all the load to the slab below. I didn’t get a photo before I added the roof, so here is the design file showing the structural members.

Design-No-Roof.png
The back support is a standard 2×4. The “foot” is made up of two pieces of 3/4″ plywood sandwiched around the stud, a 2×6 angled support, and a small piece of 2×4. The pieces are all glued and screwed with 1/4″ construction lags from both sides, pinning the pieces together. The top of the foot is the first shelf, and there is enough room under it to store a standard 5 gallon bucket. Here’s a closeup of the foot.

Foot-CloseUp.jpg
To support the roof, I took 2x6s and cut them to give some slope, and attached them to the tops of every other stud with pocket screws, glue, and steel strapping.

For the other shelves, I welded some .120 wall 1″ square tubing to some 1/8″ x 2″ channel, for a sturdy bracket.

WeldedBracket2-768x1024.jpg
These were screwed to the studs using the same 3″ Spax construction lags I used to assembly the feet. I added a row of standard shelf brackets at top to give me a place for lighter items. The roof is a piece of 1/2″ OSB with the same asphalt roll roofing I used on the shed. There are two sticks of unistrut behind the trim facia for supporting the sliding barn doors.

Finished-NoDoors-768x1024.jpg
I added a door to the front-facing side so I could more easily slide out long pieces.

Finished-Door-Open-768x1024.jpg
The doors are simple 3/4″ plywood frames with corrugated roofing for panels. They slide using four wheel unistrut trolleys.

MetalStorage_Done-768x1024.jpg
This has been a great addition to my shop. The overall structure is 12′ long, 5′ high, and about 18″ deep. It allows me to keep a reasonable amount of material on hand and out of the weather without filling my limited shop space. I’ve had it up now for over eight years and haven’t had to do any real maintenance to it at all.
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,007
Location
Pacific Northwest
Space for our stuff is always a huge issue for most of us and glad you were able to maximize some or most of yours. It looks great!
 
Last edited:

loganb

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
5,516
Location
Omaha, NE
Wow, just found this thread. Tagged to watch it so I can go back thru on the computer more often and look thru the pictures closer. The amount of high quality stuff you've organized in a useful way is incredible....great work and thank you for sharing with us!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
L

LeeG

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2012
Messages
1,525
Location
Phoenix, AZ
This project was only 184 days late being finished, but it's not the most over-due I've ever finished something. I made a promise to myself to not start any other projects until this was finished. I mostly kept that self-promise, but now I am behind on other stuff.

Jewelry Box​


This was supposed to be a Christmas present for my wife, but I was a few months late getting it done. I wanted something kind of unique that would challenge me. I think I overdid it. It had been a while since I had done any "fine" woodworking, and this was pretty ambitious. There was basically no room for error. Once the frame was built, everything else had to be built to size around those dimensions.

DJB-Front-874x1024.jpg
The drawers and sides are solid cherry. The frame is 1/2" walnut with 1/4" dividers. I used 1/4" thick pieces for the drawer sides and bottoms, and 3/8" thick pieces for the side doors. The drawer fronts are a single piece of cherry cut so the grain flows across them. I intentionally avoided using any "standard" 3/4" lumber. On a box this small, that size lumber is way too beefy so I stuck with more proportionally appropriate thicknesses. I couldn't find any pulls I liked, so I turned these from a piece of 1/2" solid brass.

DJB-Open-1024x727.jpg
The sides open to reveal some posts for hanging necklaces. The hinges are solid brass Brusso Stop Hinges. The necklace hangers are also made by Brusso. The 2 bottom drawers are 3" deep and the two top are 2" deep. At this point, I haven't lined the drawers, but I have some ring holders I can install if that's what my wife wants.

DJB-Right-901x1024.jpg
From different angles, some details become clearer. You can see the grain wrapping around the edge and get a better look at the profiles I cut for the pulls. The pulls were all 3/4" long with about a 1/2" stem that is threaded for an 8-32 machine screw. The tops were then rounded off with a profile bit.

DJB-Left-938x1024.jpg
The left is much like the right, showing the deep grain and color differences that can be brought out by a nice oil finish. The entire box is finished with several coats of Watco natural tint Danish Oil.


Overall this was challenging because I was out of practice with fine, precise woodworking, and I had a few mistakes where I had to remake pieces from scratch. As I neared completion, that worried me more and more. If I screwed up on a drawer, I'd have to remake them all as the grain flow was important to the overall appearance. I am mostly pleased with how it came out and am ready for my next project.
 
Last edited:
OP
L

LeeG

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2012
Messages
1,525
Location
Phoenix, AZ
A while back, I built a nice cart for my off cuts and short pieces of material. It has been great, but lately it has been getting pretty difficult to move – it rolls fine, but takes a lot of effort to get it moving. I had a long weekend for Labor Day, so I emptied everything from the materials side, and piled it all on my welding table.

WeldingTable_Full-768x1024.jpg
There was more there than I expected, and of course the cart is much easier to get moving. When I buy cold rolled steel, or a specialty steel like 12L14, I have to buy a 12′ stick. I usually leave a 7′ piece standing against the wall, then the remaining pieces go into the cart. My local metal supplier also has a good remnants section where I can pick up 18″ – 36″ pieces of DOM (drawn over mandrel) tubing, so I tend to grab some when I see a size I don’t already have, or a size I use often. I didn’t really have a good place to store these shorter pieces.

I looked around the shop, and decided I could relocate the parts containers that were on the floor under my shelving unit. This would give me a volume about 60″ long, 18″ wide, and 8″ deep. After trying out a few ideas in Fusion 360, I came up with a design using the V type wheels often used for gates. I had a stick of .120 wall 1×2 tubing that I used for the frame, so it got cut into some mitered pieces for the sides and ends. I didn’t need or want much floor clearance, so I used the mill to cut some 3/4″ wide notches into the end pieces to give me a solid place for welding the axles. I needed to have room for wheels, so the final dimensions for the bed were 48″ x 18″ (exterior dimensions)

MillingEnds-768x1024.jpg
I cut some 3/4″ cold rolled bar to the appropriate length, and used the lathe to cut grooves for snap rings to retain the wheels. I then welded the axles to the end pieces and got the frame ready to weld. My welding table was covered, so I used a vise I have mounted on a brake rotor to hold one of the rails, and a pair each of my Fireball Tool 6″ and 8″ Mega squares to get everything squared up and ready to weld. I picked up the idea of the vise mounted on the brake rotor several years ago, and it’s seen a lot of use – it is heavy and stable enough for welding and grinding, but still pretty easy to move.

Jigged-Up-for-Welding-1024x768.jpg
These squares are really nice to have. I’ve been using them since they were introduced. I have a pair of each size and style in aluminum, and most of the larger ones in cast iron as well. They get used on almost every welding project, and quite a few woodworking projects as well.

I tacked each corner, then rotated it around so I could get each weld in a flat position, and then cut and welded on a piece of expanded metal for the bottom. I like expanded metal for this since it doesn’t allow dirt and grit to accumulate inside.

Welded-Up-768x1024.jpg
One end of this will be pretty close to my lathe, so I just dropped down a piece of 1 1/2″ x 1/8″ angle to let one pair of wheels roll easier, and got ready to load it up.

Ready-To-Load-768x1024.jpg
I feel like I should put some sides or at least some stops along the length to keep stuff from falling off, but I’m going to use this as is for a while before I make any decisions. I have drawn up some ideas in Fusion, but nothing that really screams “must have” yet. This was the last day of my holiday weekend and I wanted to get everything cleaned up, so I decided to just load it up as is.

Stowed-Away-1024x768.jpg
Almost all the steel from my welding table is now on the cart. No sagging, and it rolls without too much effort.

Stored-Away-1024x768.jpg
It fits well, and is out of the way when I don’t want it, and pretty easy to get to when I do. I’ll probably move the angle that the far side rolls on a bit closer to the lathe, and figure out something for a handle. I’ll probably have some tweaking to do, but for a v1.0 project, I’m quite pleased with it.

Lee
 
OP
L

LeeG

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2012
Messages
1,525
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I'll include this here, because it is actually in my garage, and I used tools.

Our water heater went out. The rocket scientist who designed our house decided that no one ever needed to maintain a water heater, and he put it in a niche 22" wide in the corner of the garage.
IMG_2966.JPEG

Getting this in was a pain when I installed it 19 years ago. I needed a better plan for getting it removed. I mounted a 2x4 across the back of this opening near the top, and attached a piece of unistrut to it, held in place with a bracket, with the other end of the strut supported on our heavy duty shelving. I took an iron T fitting and bored it out on the lathe so a piece of 3/4" steel pipe would fit though it, and made kind of a weird J shaped holder. I wanted to screw into the TPR valve, but I wanted to be able to lift straight up. This little doodad let me accomplish that. I added a strut trolly and my 1/4 ton lever hoist from last year's HJE day, I was able to lift it up and slide it out with no real effort.

IMG_2973.JPEG

The new water heater was 11" higher, so I had to stub up the cold feed and hot return so there was room. While there, I replaced the 30 year old gate valve with a quarter turn ball valve.

Before:
IMG_2967.JPEG

After:
IMG_2976.JPEG

I soldered in the TPR valve to the outside like I should have done when I replaced the unit 19 years ago, and am ready to pile "stuff" in front of it again.
IMG_2975.JPEG

I called 2 plumbers and got quotes of $2500 and $2800 (total package). I spent $600 on the water heater and maybe $160 in pipe and fittings. Not a bad rate of pay for about 6 hours total my time (counting the 2 hours I spent practicing soldering). I don't want to always have to do stuff like this myself, but it is nice to know I can.

Lee
 
Last edited:

SilverJimmy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Messages
1,628
Location
Prescott/Flagstaff, AZ
What UniStrut trolley did you use for your shed doors? I’m in the planning stage for a wood shed and want to have doors like yours to keep the wood dry.
Thanks!
 
OP
L

LeeG

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2012
Messages
1,525
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I have a 5x10 utility trailer that belonged to my Dad that just wasn’t getting used enough to justify the $75/mo storage cost. I am also completely out of space in my shop, and have a bunch of tools that I don’t use, but don’t want to get rid of - lots of the stuff I used to build my shop. We are planning to move back to Iowa in a few years, and I’ll want that stuff then. My sister owns a property that has a warehouse where I can store the trailer and contents for no charge.

IMG_1656.jpeg

I took 2 pallets and built a frame on top of them, and started loading stuff. Here is the bottom 22” of the first one.

IMG_3006.jpeg

I used 2x4 for the frame and 1/2” OSB for the panels. Each pallet had 3 total levels and stood about 60” high. My idea is to be able to use a forklift to unload the trailer if I needed it. Here’s the 2nd level.

IMG_3007.jpeg

The top level was mostly lighter items so I didn’t have to worry about the load being top heavy. Items that I was worried about rusting got sealed in 4mil poly tubing with an impulse sealer (new tool) with a few desiccant packs thrown in.

IMG_3033.jpeg

With the pallets sealed on all sides and as rodent-resistant as I could make them, I wrapped them in a poly tarp and strapped it down for the 1700 mile drive. A good friend of mine recently retired and has plenty of spare time so he was able to ride along with me. I planned my stops so we’d pass through Kansas City mid-morning, so we were able to stop at Harry Epstein’s. Jorie was very welcoming and gave us a tour of the store and its history. I’d made a big order on HJE day, but I wanted to grab some stuff that might not ship well.

IMG_3034.jpeg

These Toyo boxes looked pretty nice - I wish I had gotten more. Not pictured are some 36” and 48” flexible and rigid rules from PEC. I’ve been wanting some, but they are expensive to ship.

IMG_3036.jpeg

This is tagged as a Navy Box. I bought it mainly to use as a reference for building my own. This thing is way overbuilt.

IMG_3037.jpeg

Double top and bottom. Fully welded seams. Reinforcement everywhere, and very sturdy latches. This thing weighs 10 1/4 pounds empty.

It was really great to visit the store, even if it cost me a few bucks. We got to my sister’s later that day, got the trailer stowed, and had a day to show my buddy around Iowa before dropping him off for his flight home. I drove home a few weeks later - a much more relaxing trip without the trailer.

The whole process was also a test to see what it’s going to be like to move the rest of the shop. That’s not going to be fun, but this little trip helped me plan.

Lee
 
Last edited:
OP
L

LeeG

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2012
Messages
1,525
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I have quite a few of the Ridgid toolboxes. They are waterproof, so I don’t waste any of my precious indoor space to store them. They are stackable, but none of my rules is that I don’t want to have to move stuff to get to other stuff, so I built a pair of these racks.

IMG_3191.jpeg

Originally, I was going to make them fully enclosed with metal doors, but I got lazy and decided to just do enough to keep them out of the sun. 1x2 and 1” square 16g tubing for the frame and 20g panels. I used my home made drill jig to put a line on 1” holes down the sides of the rails, and welded 2 1/2” and 3/4” wide 1/8” flat bar to make the holders.

IMG_3192.jpeg
One side loaded up.

IMG_3193.jpeg

I used screw in snaps on the frame, cut up one of the HF heavy duty tarps and added snaps. This should keep the brutal AZ sun from destroying the boxes. I think this will work better than the doors I had planned because of my limited access around them.

Lee
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom