Lets make an all vintage Snap-on tool picture thread!

[Oldtuleguy]

Little pricey

 

[Mintgrun]

I found this crooked 1/2" hinge handle on Saturday. 1952 NS-4-L, wearing the 1942 handle patent # D-132891.

 

[Snaparxon]

I found this crooked 1/2" hinge handle on Saturday. 1952 NS-4-L, wearing the 1942 handle patent # D-132891.

Very handy for tire changes!

 

[bmwrd0]

Blue Point pullers are the best ever made in my opinion. Not for $2200 though.

Blue Point/Snap-on pullers don't hold a candle to the classic Plomb/Proto puller. When a design that simple is around and in use for almost 100 years, and its major competition is a veritable Rube Goldberg contraption you know it is the best.

 

[Ayrhead]

A pretty heavy duty Snap on s-8673 bushing driver

 

[Ayrhead]

A Snap on S-8672 bushing puller

 

[Ayrhead]

A Snap on MC- 157, MC-122, MC-195, MC-133-9-4, & MC-135-9-3. All to do with Fuel Carburetors.

 

[Ayrhead]

A Snap on S-8678 Feeler Gauge w/ extra gauges

 

[Ayrhead]

Two Snap on MC-50a Carburetor Jet Pullers

 

[Ayrhead]

A Snap on vacuum grip needle nose plier.

 

[Ayrhead]

Snap on & Bluepoint punches.

 

[Ayrhead]

A Bluepoint XL-166 single end tappet wrench

 

[Ayrhead]

A Bluepoint S-9464 alignment tool.

 

[Ayrhead]

A Snap On S-9026 Piston Pin Remover & Inserter

 

[Snaparxon]

Blue Point/Snap-on pullers don't hold a candle to the classic Plomb/Proto puller. When a design that simple is around and in use for almost 100 years, and its major competition is a veritable Rube Goldberg contraption you know it is the best.

Having owned the Plomb/Proto pullers and Snap on CJ series plus the Blue Point CG series, a puller that holds tension on the jaws was valuable on the 10-20 ton pullers, especially 3 jaw. Blue Points worked the best hands down in my experience. The Proto's had weak screws when a hammer was needed to jar the screw and didn't like a hard pull. The Snap on CJ series jaws were always to thick to fit where I needed a puller an the thin jaws always broke their tips off. I sold the CJ stuff and kept a few smaller Proto pullers because there are times where they fit the specific job better.

 

[MR.X]

Ford script stamped. So one of these looks to be a 1935 P71 which is apparently? the industrial catalog's name for what we know as the 71A ratchet in the standard catalog. The other looks to be a two 1935 71A’s very skillfully joined and modified 7/16”and 1/2” female ( like the brake wrench) besides the 35 date code their appears to be a 5 and a Z on the faces on both ends, although very light on one. Also a 3566 stamped. Ford shop made 5Z 3566?

 

[snapmom]

The P71 (N and 10) are listed in the 38 supplementary cat.

 

[MR.X]

The P71 (N and 10) are listed in the 38 supplementary cat.

Right. I saw it/them in the 37 Industrial cat. on the collecting snap-on site on a page headed Snap-On assembly tools. Is there a difference between the 71A and P71? Also that double end in your pic, Ford stamped as well?

 

[snapmom]

The P71-N has the flat handle, the P71-10 has the round handle. Pic attached is a P71-10 with a 41 code
Ford is stamped on the double end.

 

[MR.X]

The P71-N has the flat handle, the P71-10 has the round handle. Pic attached is a P71-10 with a 41 code
Ford is stamped on the double end.

Hi. Sorry. In this particular instance I meant the 71A and the P71. I'm assuming that(71A) is what has been grinded off from the shank of our ratchets that have the P71 stamping.

 

[snapmom]

You are right, These are P71-A, The cat list a P71-N, but I have not seen one. so post it if you have one.. PS: my brain is getting old.

 

[3baygarage]

Hi. Sorry. In this particular instance I meant the 71A and the P71. I'm assuming that(71A) is what has been grinded off from the shank of our ratchets that have the P71 stamping.

I think the difference is just lock button vs ball bearing.

 

[snapmom]

The A has a pin selector and the N would have a flat selector

 

[MR.X]

The A has a pin selector and the N would have a flat selector

By "A" you mean 71-A and by "N" you mean P-71-N is that right? or are you talking about the later regular 71-N?

 

[snapmom]

To make the P , you take a 71A or an 71N then replace the detent ball with a pin. And the P model number is applied. sometimes the old model number is removed. Would like to see a 71N that’s been changed

 

[MR.X]

To make the P , you take a 71A or an 71N then replace the detent ball with a pin. And the P model number is applied. sometimes the old model number is removed. Would like to see a 71N that’s been changed

Got it. I didn't phrase that right and I deleted it because I can't even understand what I wrote. I just didn't understand why you brought up the "N" selector. But you ( and Oldtule guy)did answer my original question ref. difference between 71"s and P71's....Anyway, my P71A isn't a pin selector, maybe a shop made replacement. Also did you notice besides being female drive the gear on the double seems to be thicker?

 

[Snaparxon]

A 1936 date code 9/32" M4 driver

 

[MShaw]

Here are three items I previously posted elsewhere. All were bought in 1962. The compression gage was purchased used.

 

[d42jeep]

I found these at a local sale yesterday. I rarely leave Snap-on tools behind, particularly metric ones.
-Don

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

My local Snap-on truck broke down in front of the house yesterday. I looked and told the driver I can fix it for $50,00 a week for two years but he didn't find that funny. lol.

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

Here are a pair of hand carry boxes I picked up on an overnight trip to a swap meet in Roseburg yesterday. The larger box is a K-21, probably pre-war. Eagle snap latches and cross dividers on the top drawer. Leather handle is toast but I think I have one to replace it. Paint is black with nothing showing under it. It has a few rust issues and will need a new piano hinge to replace the cobbled door hinges on the front panel. Also the handle is missing from the rust infected top tray.

The other smaller box I'm not sure of. It resembles a K-24 but the dimensions are off. It is 18-1/2" long, 6-3/4" wide, and 4-3/4" tall. Grey color seems original. The cats I looked at show the K-24 at 20" long. It is missing it's tray but the leather handle is semi-ok. I'll probably just clean it up a little for now. The pics. Ed.

 

[Snaparxon]

A 1935 Blue Point S9078-A brake wrench, 15/32" - 1/2"

 

[misterbill]

Here are a pair of hand carry boxes I picked up on an overnight trip to a swap meet in Roseburg yesterday. The larger box is a K-21, probably pre-war. Eagle snap latches and cross dividers on the top drawer. Leather handle is toast but I think I have one to replace it. Paint is black with nothing showing under it. It has a few rust issues and will need a new piano hinge to replace the cobbled door hinges on the front panel. Also the handle is missing from the rust infected top tray.

The other smaller box I'm not sure of. It resembles a K-24 but the dimensions are off. It is 18-1/2" long, 6-3/4" wide, and 4-3/4" tall. Grey color seems original. The cats I looked at show the K-24 at 20" long. It is missing it's tray but the leather handle is semi-ok. I'll probably just clean it up a little for now. The pics. Ed.

ORC, the smaller one is an FB-50. I have a couple posted upthread.

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

Thank you for that ID misterbill. I will check out those posts. Ed.

 

[d42jeep]

Here are two 9/32” drive 5/16“ sockets I found at a local sale on Sunday. The chrome plated socket has a bit of chrome peel and has a 1940 date code. The plain steel one has a 1944 date code. The part numbers are M-10.
-Don

 

[Snaparxon]

Couple of F710LS's 1964 and 1965 date codes. I've had the 1964 for 30 years or better, handle is a screwdriver handle added years ago. 1965 I picked up yesterday.

 

[Steven 33]

Some interesting ones

 

[Smokeshow69]

I got this super solid kra-21 from BMWRD0 today in a trade. I traded away some Blackhawk for this solid box. Looks like someone tried to "age" it but wasn't successful at all. Hopefully I can remove it and save some of the gray paint underneath. If I can't it would be a nice restoration project because it's so solid and straight.Very heavy box for it's size and well made. Even came with some AN marked crows feet wrenches!

 

[d42jeep]

I‘ve had some luck with a rusty tray like that pouring a couple of inches of evaporust in and leaving it to work overnight. There will still be some pitting but at least the rust will be minimized. I like the box!
-Don

 

[RTM]

Looks like someone tried to "age" it but wasn't successful at all. Hopefully I can remove it and save some of the gray paint underneath. I

Did they use orange paint (where all my neighbors just use real rust) for patina?