let's see your craftsman block grinders

[Cypherian]

Hey,

Well this was fun. After tearing down the model 397.19571 all looked good except.. brittle insulation cracking off the wires to the windings.





I removed the white wire brittle insulation and was planning on Dual Wall Heat Shrink With Adhesive then cover that with Flame Retardant Polyester Expandable (Braided) Monofilament Sleeving. However, the wire is to corroded and brittle. I normally just take it down to good wire solder a new piece on and heat shrink and sleeve it. Well it extends all the way down into the windings, has anyone done a replacement the wire, I presume I can fish out all the pieces tin a new piece and slip it in place ? After stripping some more insulation on the other two wires I believe they were all subjected to high heat the copper is discolored and corroded so I will have to replace all three wires.:{ Oh and I have been googling and youtubing all night trying to find someone showing how it is done to no avail yet.

Cypher

 

[harleybuilder]

Thanks to torqueman I have another 1/2hp. This one is single voltage (non comercial ) with light, eye guards etc. The only thing that is missing is the quench tray and rubber mounting feet. Looks great and spins nicely. I need to dress and true the wheels and looking for recommendations on a good dressing tool. Thanks TM. .

 

[jakemac]

What do you use for de-burring? I always used a wire wheel. Is there something better?

I'll let you know when I get something.


Seriously, other members have bought specific de-burring wheels, but I don't know anything about them except that they're expensive. I think they're something along the lines of a super dense scotchbright ????

 

[pendragon1998]

Hey,

Well this was fun. After tearing down the model 397.19571 all looked good except.. brittle insulation cracking off the wires to the windings.





I removed the white wire brittle insulation and was planning on Dual Wall Heat Shrink With Adhesive then cover that with Flame Retardant Polyester Expandable (Braided) Monofilament Sleeving. However, the wire is to corroded and brittle. I normally just take it down to good wire solder a new piece on and heat shrink and sleeve it. Well it extends all the way down into the windings, has anyone done a replacement the wire, I presume I can fish out all the pieces tin a new piece and slip it in place ? After stripping some more insulation on the other two wires I believe they were all subjected to high heat the copper is discolored and corroded so I will have to replace all three wires.:{

Cypher

I am curious what others have to say. I feel like that is the only dodgy part of my restoration. I cut back the wires a bit and crimped on terminals, plus I added heat shrink as far down the wire as I could push it. I wish I could have totally replaced those wires, especially since I had some nice machine wire handy. I guess I just have to hope for the best as there is no way to fully replace them (that I know of).

 

[firemanast]

I paid $125, but it seems stuff is always more around here than what I see people posting in other areas of the country. I'm happy at that price, but less is always better.

I would pay that in a heart beat around here, just not any to be found !
I think you did good for one with nice metal eye guards.

 

[bluebolt]

Well, let's see ................
One for grinding steel - fine and course
One for wire wheels - fine and course crimped
One for heavy striping wire wheels- fine and course knotted
One for buffing - red and white rouge
One for buffing - blue and green rouge
One for de-burring - fine and course
One for grinding aluminum - fine and course
One for grinding brass - fine and course
and one for good luck.

Did I miss anything ?

The Tampico Fiber wheels Sears sold in the 60's! I have one, lower left in pic.

 

[Pupuhd]

I paid $125, but it seems stuff is always more around here than what I see people posting in other areas of the country. I'm happy at that price, but less is always better.

Still not bad. Here in the Deleware tri-state area(DE,NJ,PA), they are rare also. When they show up, they sell before I can email back or are asking high prices. My theory, it's just my opinion, these CM block grinders don't like the nearby salt air. Hence, they migrate west toward to torqueman country.

 

[Pupuhd]

I removed the white wire brittle insulation and was planning on Dual Wall Heat Shrink With Adhesive then cover that with Flame Retardant Polyester Expandable (Braided) Monofilament Sleeving. However, the wire is to corroded and brittle. I normally just take it down to good wire solder a new piece on and heat shrink and sleeve it. Well it extends all the way down into the windings, has anyone done a replacement the wire, I presume I can fish out all the pieces tin a new piece and slip it in place ? After stripping some more insulation on the other two wires I believe they were all subjected to high heat the copper is discolored and corroded so I will have to replace all three wires.:{ Oh and I have been googling and youtubing all night trying to find someone showing how it is done to no avail yet.

Cypher

My 1/3hp CM block grinders wiring is just fine. However I have a similar issue on my U.S. Electrical Tool 12" grinder. It's a 2hp, 3ph with three wires brittle and falling apart. I temporally heat shrink tube it as far back as I could, however I will want to replace those wires during the rebuild.

What is Dual Wall Heat Shrink With Adhesive and its purpose here? Also would th Flame Retardant Polyester Expandable (Braided) Monofilament Sleeving be necessary? Thanks for the input here.

 

[Cypherian]

The adhesive heat shrink seals out water and such, the heat proof is for abrasion/ vibration and heat protection. The heat shrink tubing alone can handle to about 300 Deg F but is not abrasive resitant..

Cypher

 

[alpinewhite]

I picked up this 3/4 HP unit for $50. The dude who sold it took it apart, had it powder-coated, but couldn't get it up and running because he didn't take enough notes to wire it up again. Comes with toolrests and quench tray.

I unraveled the wiring and got it up and running last night. I don't have stones on it yet and noticed that it stops spinning 2 seconds after I cut power. Perhaps the lack of inertia from the stones is causing it. Is 2 seconds acceptable with no stones?

 

[Pupuhd]

I'll let you know when I get something.


Seriously, other members have bought specific de-burring wheels, but I don't know anything about them except that they're expensive. I think they're something along the lines of a super dense scotchbright ????

This topic came up a month or so ago. Apparently, the original poster paid nearly $90 a wheel for a 3M Scotchbrite deburring/finishing wheel. I wanted to setup my Baldor 8" grinder for cleanup and finish only: wire, deburring, buffing and since that post did an extensive information and availability search on it. Found out buying these scotchbrite deburring/finishing can get pricey if purchased through a vendor. However go to Ebay and you'll find many selling New and New Old Stock wheels for sometimes half the cost. Only issue is there are dozens of grades and finishes available so you'll need to know what you are looking for.

I purchased this new 3M Scotch Brite 8" Multi Finishing Wheel 2S Medium 8x1x3 for $38 with free shipping. This one is a gray color wheel with a Medium finish, great for medium to heavy deburring. One word of caution, the 8" wheels have a 3" arbor hole. I had to purchase separately Reducing Flanges, a set of 3" to 1" with another set from 1" to 3/4". I couldn't source any to go from 3" to 3/4". Don't know if the 6" wheels have a similar issue.


I also purchased this time through an online vendor the scotchbrite maroon color Very Fine wheels for a satin brushed finished, Standard #866908 Buff and Blend HS Disc, 8" x 3/4" A VFN. These were $31 for a lot of ten plus shipping ($41 tot.). These are currently on a month back order from the manufacturer Standard Abrasives.

There is a youtube guy, BasementShopGuy, who rebuilt several South Bend lathes and he used the maroon wheels then Red and Green compound sticks on the buffer to produce near mirror finish parts on the exposed steel components, very sleek and beautiful. If any one need links to these maroon wheels, let me know. Hope this help, looking for them to show up so I can do some finishing on some of the old ARNs around here.

 

[Pupuhd]

The adhesive heat shrink seals out water and such, the heat proof is for abrasion/ vibration and heat protection. The heat shrink tubing alone can handle to about 300 Deg F but is not abrasive resitant..

Cypher

Thanks, will Google it for repairs/upgrades on my truck and camper. Been using standard heat shrink tubing for that. Old dog, new tricks.

 

[Cypherian]

I picked up this 3/4 HP unit for $50. The dude who sold it took it apart, had it powder-coated, but couldn't get it up and running because he didn't take enough notes to wire it up again. Comes with toolrests and quench tray.

I unraveled the wiring and got it up and running last night. I don't have stones on it yet and noticed that it stops spinning 2 seconds after I cut power. Perhaps the lack of inertia from the stones is causing it. Is 2 seconds acceptable with no stones?

Might be exactly right no stones but if also could be bearings. See if anyone else here with one chimes in .

Cypher

 

[mtwaterguy]

My 1/2hp commercial ran for about 3 seconds without stones and over 2 minutes with them.

 

[Cypherian]

http://www.awcwire.com/producttoc.aspx?id=adhesive-lined-polyolefin-heat-shrink-tubing

 

[G20-Budo]

alpinewhite - Great find!

 

[firemanast]

alpinewhite

Nice find

 

[McBrownie]

I picked up this 3/4 HP unit for $50. The dude who sold it took it apart, had it powder-coated, but couldn't get it up and running because he didn't take enough notes to wire it up again. Comes with toolrests and quench tray.

I unraveled the wiring and got it up and running last night. I don't have stones on it yet and noticed that it stops spinning 2 seconds after I cut power. Perhaps the lack of inertia from the stones is causing it. Is 2 seconds acceptable with no stones?

I think you are ok, but you could put a new set of bearings on that beast and it would still be a screaming deal. Nice grinder!

 

[mtwaterguy]

Picked this up this afternoon in Missoula. About 45minutes north. Guy retiring.

 

[bagged89s10]

Picked this up this afternoon in Missoula. About 45minutes north. Guy retiring.

How much did you pay? I see some on Craigslist with prices all over the map.

 

[mtwaterguy]

How much did you pay? I see some on Craigslist with prices all over the map.

This one was $80.

 

[firemanast]

Picked this up this afternoon in Missoula. About 45minutes north. Guy retiring.

Nice find !

 

[nine4gmc]

I think you are ok, but you could put a new set of bearing on that beast and it would still be a screaming deal. Nice grinder!

That may be new bearings, possibly sealed instead of shielded and that, along with no wheel mass is what makes it stop so soon.

 

[Rickenbackerman]

Finally got this one done 100% the other night. Drives mentioned moving the wheels outboard, which I thought was a good idea, so I did that. And I bought one of those ACE droplight guards that vertguy talked about. I cut the rolled lip off of it with tin snips and spent a few hours beating on it with a ball peen hammer to get it to fit. New flexy-shaft and light socket from McMaster, and we're in business.

 

[McBrownie]

Picked this up this afternoon in Missoula. About 45minutes north. Guy retiring.

Congratulations on your new toy. It must be 3/4hp season. They are coming out of the woodwork!

 

[bluebolt]

Congratulations on your new toy. It must be 3/4hp season. They are coming out of the woodwork!

Ditto! I have only found one 3/4 block local at an auction and never heard it run so when it got to $75 I let the other guy get it.

 

[drivesitfar]

AP: nice find and fix on the 3/4 HP. i hope yours runs out like MT's did once you put the stones on, but i agree with McB that you might as well put on a new pair of bearings while you have it down that far if you are able.

MT: 3/4 commercial block is on my short list of tools to buy so nice find.

Rick: your block looks great and nice that you were able to move out the wheels with extensions. i'm guessing those are the stock ones made for blocks that pin into the wheels or did you buy right and left handed threaded ones. do tell and where did you buy them?

 

[Lucky 13]

This is the one we use daily at work, it's a 1/4 HP version that has been in the shop since it was new.

 

[McBrownie]

This is the one we use daily at work, it's a 1/4 HP version that has been in the shop since it was new.

It's nice to see one that is being used on a daily basis. It has really held up well. Any idea of when "new" was?

 

[Lucky 13]

It's nice to see one that is being used on a daily basis. It has really held up well. Any idea of when "new" was?

I have only been there since April. There are a lot of old tools in the shop though, they are mostly Craftsman. The grinder looks to be maybe mid to late 1960's?

 

[mtwaterguy]

Ditto! I have only found one 3/4 block local at an auction and never heard it run so when it got to $75 I let the other guy get it.

This find was just lucky. Last item in a wood shop for sale listing. Normally I wouldn't have seem it.

 

[vertguy]

And I bought one of those ACE droplight guards that vertguy talked about. I cut the rolled lip off of it with tin snips and spent a few hours beating on it with a ball peen hammer to get it to fit. New flexy-shaft and light socket from McMaster, and we're in business.

Nice to see my idea get adapted... not pretty, but it looks to get the job done

 

[vertguy]

Here's a couple more shots of the recently acquired 1/3HP. I need to crank up the heat in the garage this weekend and get it cleaned up. Aside from the corrosion on the bottom cover, it is very clean. As for the root cause of the corrosion... the grinder was on a fiber/cloth bag (something like a small feed bag) on a basement bench and it must have been there for a while as it was stuck to the corrosion/bottom cover. I figure this was done to help keep it in place in lieu of bolting it down.

Even with the corrosion, the shields, light and quench tray are worth the $60 investment. But it runs smoothly, so it will get put back to use.

And ideas on the best/easiest way to address the corrosion??

 

[bagged89s10]

Here's a couple more shots of the recently acquired 1/3HP. I need to crank up the heat in the garage this weekend and get it cleaned up. Aside from the corrosion on the bottom cover, it is very clean. As for the root cause of the corrosion... the grinder was on a fiber/cloth bag (something like a small feed bag) on a basement bench and it must have been there for a while as it was stuck to the corrosion/bottom cover. I figure this was done to help keep it in place in lieu of bolting it down.



Even with the corrosion, the shields, light and quench tray are worth the $60 investment. But it runs smoothly, so it will get put back to use.



And ideas on the best/easiest way to address the corrosion??

Wire brush and a can of coke. Or vinegar. Pretty sure that will get all that white **** off.

 

[Rickenbackerman]

Drives: There are no extensions. On the left side, the buffing wheel, I just added another left hand threaded nut to the inboard side of the wheel. On the right side, I tried that, but the wirewheel was a little fatter than the buffing wheel and there weren't enough threads to get an outboard nut on. So I used a much bigger nut to slip over the part that is inboard of the threads. I hope that makes sense. I can take some more pictures later.

Vert: Yeah, not pretty at all. And it took longer than it should have to make it work. But it gets the job done.

 

[McBrownie]

I have only been there since April. There are a lot of old tools in the shop though, they are mostly Craftsman. The grinder looks to be maybe mid to late 1960's?

I would guess late 60's too.

 

[McBrownie]

The BlockMeister has a B&D cousin. What a stand on that Black and Decker.

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=14754

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=277798

 

[torqueman2002]

I found a nice 1/3-HP Block in Central NY, where the snow never stops.

Very complete and good shape.

Some extra SO bits and pieces too. 6-point metric. I love the bundle-deal.

 

[Wildfire]

So where do you find the 7" wheels (grinding and wire) with 1/2" arbor holes? Or do new wheels come with adapter bushings?

New to bench grinders, but mine is almost restored and ready to go back to work.

Also missing a set of wheel flanges if anyone has a good source for those...

Left hand wheel cover is coming from Sear parts tomorrow! Going to buy a replacement switch from ZORO this week NKK WR11.

Not sure what to do about the label. Still have the original, but it doesn't look good enough to put back. Thinking of putting it on the back and getting a craftsman logo for the front.

 

[Outlawmws]

The hole adapters are sold wherever wheels are sold in my experience. if the box stores don't have them try an Ace Hardware or other high end hardware store.

They are usually a set of concentric spacers and you simply use as many as you need to adapt. Buy the length appropriate to the width of the wheels you are using.