Sorry, I added a note to my post above to hold the component's terminal with a 2nd pair of needle-nose pliers.
Good suggestion.
Even in his 60's, my dad would check for voltage in a house circuit, by wetting his thumb and sticking it in a light socket.
He would caution me to keep 1 hand in my pocket, so a charge wouldn't pass across my chest.
While in the 69th Signal Corp, in WWII, with both hands on the pliers he cut into a live 220V line and couldn't let go. He was a lot younger, and was OK, but he had to force his hands apart with one foot.
Thanks for the tip!....
Doc: man your Dad was a MAN'S MAN and pretty smart when he cut that 220. not sure he couldn't have used a meter for the light bulb,
Yes, but that wasn't as handy. He might have been showing off a bit too.
but i still lick 9v to test to see if they are good.
ALL: speaking of 9v batteries i've mentioned this before and will mention again. i read that a member threw a screwdriver in his tool bag with his rechargable batteries and tools and it started a fire and out of that conversation another member mentioned almost losing his family jewels by having a 9v explode and start fire in his pants. about a week later i was moving a machine and it had a little counter operated by a 9v that was about to fall out so i put it in my pocket. after i put the machine in the storage unit I put my keys in that same pocket not thinking. about a mile down the road i noticed my pants and leg getting warm and remembered the battery. i pulled over threw the battery out on the floor (luckily rubber mat on it) and it exploded. it didn't start a fire because of the rubber so just missed having a trip to the emergency room.
BEE CAREFUL with even the smallest amounts and you'll live longer.
I am still disassembling my 1/2 HP Blockhead to solve the rough start...
Got this one rucker from ArnFest in the mean time...
1 HP Blockhead. Its huge compared to the 1/2 HP and 1/3 HP!!
Works perfectly and is complete, even with the cooling tray!
Buy some flexible exhaust pipes- joined by a Y adapter at the bottom, into a 5 gallon metal paint can.
Hope you are not disappointed with it. I find them to be a.) very short and b.) very tippy. Just something to think about so your grinder doesn't take a spill.
Nice collection started there.
It is bad shop practice to use the same grinding stone on both ferrous and non-ferrous material.
It is bad shop practice to use the same grinding stone on both ferrous and non-ferrous material.
That's not to say, people can't get away with it, just that it is risky.
I looked for the original article I read on that, but have 'filed' it too well.
Anyway, here's 2 quotes from the links below that talk about Aluminum.
"There are some materials that can cause major problems if you try to grind them. In particular, the big no-no with grinders is aluminum. Aluminum melts easily, and if you were to try to grind down aluminum, it would start to melt and the aluminum would coat the wheel.
The stone would grind the aluminum for a while, but particles would start getting embedded in the pores of the stone. And the next time the stone comes around, there's no grit exposed, only little bits of aluminum. So the aluminum on the piece rubs against the aluminum on the wheel, producing more heat, which produces more melting, and so on.
The natural response of the person at the wheel is to push the piece harder against the wheel. But this will only cause more friction and heat up the wheel faster. If the wheel heats up enough, it can explode."
http://web.mit.edu/course/other/machineshop/Grinder/aluminum.html
"Even if pure, non-ferrous aluminum is used, sparks can occur during an aluminothermic reaction, also called a thermic reaction. Such a reaction occurs when an aluminum particle and a metal oxide, such as rust, are ignited by a heat source and chemically burn as a "Class D" fire (i.e., combustible metal). The reaction is similar to a fireworks explosion, can create 4,500ºF sparks, and can occur when a grinder is used on ferric material (e.g., steel) prior to being used on an aluminum material or vice versa. This type of sparking and associated fire hazard may be eliminated by restricting the use of a grinder to only one type of material. In the absence of that safeguard, if grinding under these circumstances creates sparks, then it is considered hot work and a fire watch would be required under any of the circumstances described in 1915.504(b).
Grinding aluminum also can create housekeeping issues. An aluminothermic reaction can occur in situations where there is an accumulation of powder or dust from the grinding operation. A shipyard environment typically contains metal oxide, in the form of rust, and a heat source, in the form of welding, cutting, brazing, or grinding. If enough aluminum powder is introduced, there is a potential for a significant aluminothermic reaction.
In an Australian Department of Energy "lessons learned" article, "Fireball from Aluminum Grinding Dust," an individual received first- and second-degree bums on his hands and head from a fireball that developed while grinding a piece of angle iron a few days after another individual ground the heads off approximately twelve aluminum pop rivets. This type of accident may be prevented by employing good housekeeping habits in addition to using material-specific tools."
https://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=INTERPRETATIONS&p_id=27413
Link to my thread on Block Grinders, see the bottom of post #1 for Grinder Safety.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4000526&postcount=1
