JeremyBurke
Well-known member
I picked this guy up today. I hadn't seen one like it before and it is my first block grinder. I am very happy with it but would also love more information if people have it. Thanks. 
let's see your craftsman block grinders
- Thread starter emeraldcoupe
- Start date
anyone in utah I just found this posted what do you think
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=28496924&cat=&lpid=2&search=CRAFTSMAN&ad_cid=43
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=28496924&cat=&lpid=2&search=CRAFTSMAN&ad_cid=43
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I think its about 3X too much money...
jakemac
Well-known member
I tried a search for an online source for a manual, but no luck. The only thing I found out was that it takes a 7" wheel.
I did notice that yours has the optional disk sander attachment. Nice find ! What size is the disk ?
JeremyBurke
Well-known member
I think it is an 8inch disk. It is a great little grinder that runs very very smooth and quiet. Thanks to all here for pointing out the benefits of these sweet old grinders. Special thanks to drivesitfar for his push down this path. He is an enabler.
Itinerant
Well-known member
You, me and everybody else it seems. He's been trying to sell that thing for a long time.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
TSquare; you are past 100 posts, you are good to go for the classifieds! You can post more than one pic per post now! 
drivesitfar
Well-known member
TSquare:you stepped up to the plate and maybe paid 5 times what the original owner did, but i for one think you scored a home run. that is an awesome grinder and brand new out of the box 50 years old. Sweeeeeet
i'm guessing the peg board with Craftsman insignia on it is part of a bench you bought or do they sell peg board like that for us Craftsman lovers?
Congrats on remembering to check your grinding wheels for a ring before installing them just in case.
i'm guessing the peg board with Craftsman insignia on it is part of a bench you bought or do they sell peg board like that for us Craftsman lovers?
Congrats on remembering to check your grinding wheels for a ring before installing them just in case.
Thanks, I can't lie - I really like this grinder. When I was assembling this machine, I was taken back by how nice these older grinders were designed.
I did ring test the wheels, they were good, the bearings were good. The machine is what it is, a well stored "new in box" bench grinder. Now if I could only find a NIB Craftsman 150 standing drill press with all the options
drivesitfar
Well-known member
i haven't read this entire thread for a while, but i'm guessing you might be the first one to find one of these old Craftsman block grinders in a box so why not shoot for the moon and find another 50 year old Craftsman machine new in the box.
are you going to keep grinding wheels on both or exchange for a wire wheel or just get another grinder for wire wheeling like a lot of GJ members do? check out the thread CBacres started by asking how many grinders does a normal person have in their garage or shop. then he shows pictures of maybe 8 block grinders on a bench.
again nice find and thanks for the tease with one photo per post and spaced out over a week or so.
are you going to keep grinding wheels on both or exchange for a wire wheel or just get another grinder for wire wheeling like a lot of GJ members do? check out the thread CBacres started by asking how many grinders does a normal person have in their garage or shop. then he shows pictures of maybe 8 block grinders on a bench.
again nice find and thanks for the tease with one photo per post and spaced out over a week or so.
cbacres
Well-known member
check out the thread CBacres started by asking how many grinders does a normal person have in their garage or shop. then he shows pictures of maybe 8 block grinders on a bench.-
driveitsfar, you are talking about me in the future
, I only have five blocks, some other old iron in the picture with them.
driveitsfar, you are talking about me in the future
, I only have five blocks, some other old iron in the picture with them.jakemac
Well-known member
I did a BAAAAAAAAD thing !
So, is it wrong to order $70 (w/shipping) in parts for a grinder that cost $25 ?
Here's the story (yeah, I know I can be long winded in my posts, I'll try to keep it short. But stick with me, it might be worth it)
Recently, tedsters acquired a model 397.19591 grinder. A few weeks ago, I picked up a 397.19590 model. Hey, they're only one model number apart, the parts should be the same, right ?While looking up the part number for a quench tray for his grinder, I noticed that the side covers for his model were listed as available for order as well. Oooooooooooooo!
Both grinders use 7" wheels and have side covers with exhaust ports. These are the later style covers with the Princess Leia buns, not the rounded bulges.
So, after checking eReplacementParts.com and searspartsdirect.com for availability, I ordered from Sears to cut down on the shipping time (eRepacement would be ordering them from Sears anyway). Oddly enough, the screws are listed as discontinued.I'm still not certain that these parts are available, but I thought that I'd take a chance. I'll let you know how it turns out once the parts arrive, or the order gets cancelled.
The moral of the story - don't just search for your own model number when looking for parts. Try searching similar models, the parts might still match.
Oh, and here are the links for the side covers.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/4971514/0009/397&blt=04
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/4971517/0009/397&blt=04
So, here's the update :
The parts showed up today (painted black). I was surprised at how small the box was and I started to worry, but they were the right size. (sorta) Its seems that the new covers are supplied by Husqvarna ! Imagine that !
The NOS (I'm assuming) covers are close, but not quite. They will fit, but the screw holes are a little off. One is way off. You can get the covers on, but you will need to use washer head screws to keep them from slipping through the keyhole slots. In addition, you won't be able to remove the covers without taking the screws completely out instead of just loosening them and rotating the cover to slip it off.
The covers don't fit exactly. (I annotated the pics in red) They don't line up with the inner guard or the exhaust port. But, it will do the job for now. All in all - I don't think that it was worth the expense, but I don't regret spending the money. YMMV.
I'm disappointed, but not upset. I'll still keep my eyes open for the proper side covers or a donor machine, but will still use this one as is until that day comes along.
If someone else decides to order these covers, you should know that the screws are not included (discontinued), you will need to provide your own. The original screws are #8-32 self-threading with an original length of 11/16". 3/4" will work as well.
The pictures -
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Thx - I hope more of these old Craftsman machines show up NIB and get posted on GJ. I am certain there is a Craftsman 150 Drill Press sitting NIB just waiting to be discovered.
I will keep both grinding wheels on this Blockhead. I have a newer Sear's bench grinder that I will use for wire wheels.
I have posted on thet CBacres thread - I have three bench machines with wheels attached including the one I posted about here - one for grinding, one for wire wheeling and one for buffing.
I can see why people collect these older grinders, they look great, run great and last forever. I wish I could get the old tooling for these Blockheads and re-issue a batch of 100
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
T square: glad you have a few other oldies to keep that new one company. I guess you are in the Normal range with 3 grinders as a GJ member.
Jake: sorry to hear you didn't get exactly what you were hoping for. did you order from Sears or another online source because you might have said and i can't remember while i'm typing this. also nice work bench and is that a nice shop towel or a piece of thin rubber you use to protect it?
CBacres: you are out of control, but you know it and sounds like you have a plan. one thing i didn't add on your thread that you might think of in your grinder's table you were putting together. how about leaving that piece that jets out for a vise so you can fine tune or work on something in between all the grinder's work and have a seat there to work or just have a beer?
Jake: sorry to hear you didn't get exactly what you were hoping for. did you order from Sears or another online source because you might have said and i can't remember while i'm typing this. also nice work bench and is that a nice shop towel or a piece of thin rubber you use to protect it?
CBacres: you are out of control, but you know it and sounds like you have a plan. one thing i didn't add on your thread that you might think of in your grinder's table you were putting together. how about leaving that piece that jets out for a vise so you can fine tune or work on something in between all the grinder's work and have a seat there to work or just have a beer?
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cbacres
Well-known member
Driveitsfar-CBacres: you are out of control,
Finally, I'm recognized for something, even if it for being a deranged grinder owner ( I think my own family thinks along these lines)
Thanks for the input on the table, I'm in the process of finding a piece of plate to start cutting out. The seat idea may work,I'll look at that as I go ahead.always need a place to have a beer.
It will become my grinding center for sure.
May come up with a single light that swivels rather than all the multiple lights on each machine.
It's evolving.
Finally, I'm recognized for something
, even if it for being a deranged grinder owner ( I think my own family thinks along these lines)Thanks for the input on the table, I'm in the process of finding a piece of plate to start cutting out. The seat idea may work,I'll look at that as I go ahead.always need a place to have a beer.
It will become my grinding center for sure.
May come up with a single light that swivels rather than all the multiple lights on each machine.
It's evolving.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
CB: you took me a little out of context. i did also add that you know that you are out of control and that you have a plan. i wish i would have bought this welding table set up by one of the Hydroplane fabricators when he retired and if i was a welder i definitely would have.
can you see the screws to move get the bench up off the wheels and then screw them up so you can roll it around. there was a bench on GJ's front page for a long time that had hydrolics to do sort of the same thing because these bad boys are not light.
if anybody has a design to share for a pull out bench seat that is on an arm attached to the bench that can be put out of the way please post or PM me because i'm really tired of moving my stool out of the way when i'm not using it.
can you see the screws to move get the bench up off the wheels and then screw them up so you can roll it around. there was a bench on GJ's front page for a long time that had hydrolics to do sort of the same thing because these bad boys are not light.
if anybody has a design to share for a pull out bench seat that is on an arm attached to the bench that can be put out of the way please post or PM me because i'm really tired of moving my stool out of the way when i'm not using it.
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jakemac
Well-known member
Thanks - it's OK though, I really didn't expect to find them still available in the first place. I ordered from searspartsdirect.
I use PigMat on the bench to keep that area clean. I use it on my tablesaw when I use it as a workbench for the same reason.
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need help
i picked this up last night and it does not work the guy told me it ran good and was smooth, got there plugged in and all it does is hum it free wheels great and you can spin it by hand to even try to help it when you turn the switch on it stops and hums he said he bought it like this but used it on his bench, no tape on bare connection or nothing you can see there is bare wires all over the place
i don't know if something is burnt up or hooked up wrong either way i only ended up giving $5 for it after pulling the bottom cover off worst thing is keep it for parts no wheel guards or eye shields the tool rest are there
i picked this up last night and it does not work the guy told me it ran good and was smooth, got there plugged in and all it does is hum it free wheels great and you can spin it by hand to even try to help it when you turn the switch on it stops and hums he said he bought it like this but used it on his bench, no tape on bare connection or nothing you can see there is bare wires all over the place
i don't know if something is burnt up or hooked up wrong either way i only ended up giving $5 for it after pulling the bottom cover off worst thing is keep it for parts no wheel guards or eye shields the tool rest are there
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
Jake: I wish i wouldn't have sold a little 1/3 HP block grinder for $50 and i could have shipped it to you guys that don't see them as often. I did put in the GJ classifieds first and no takers then a couple months ago. we have Boeing up here and I think as part of their paycheck they got Sears coupons because every garage has Craftsman in it.
just like we don't have all those awesome old vises made in PA and NY that practically get given away or scrapped back in your side of the US.
i'll have to check on PigMat because i have a stainless table that could use a little protection from me and my handy work.
at least you are safe now until you find a donor block
just like we don't have all those awesome old vises made in PA and NY that practically get given away or scrapped back in your side of the US.
i'll have to check on PigMat because i have a stainless table that could use a little protection from me and my handy work.
at least you are safe now until you find a donor block
jakemac
Well-known member
I get PigMat at NAPA. It's used for absorbing oil spills. It comes as tear off sheets, but I buy it in a big roll. The sections tear off like a roll of paper towels.
As for "safe" - HaHaHaHaHaHa, I'll be safe after I'm in the grave.
As for "safe" - HaHaHaHaHaHa, I'll be safe after I'm in the grave.
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whats the black box on the right
post #950
jakemac
Well-known member
IDK
I think it's the starting relay. #40 on the parts diagram.
Here's a link to the manual
http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/2202.pdf
Here's the link to the searspartsdirect page for parts
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/All-Products-Parts/Model-39719580/0247/0721000/00021621/00001?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=39719580
The relay is discontinued, but maybe you can search for the part number, or find the manufacturer.
I think it's the starting relay. #40 on the parts diagram.
Here's a link to the manual
http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/2202.pdf
Here's the link to the searspartsdirect page for parts
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/All-Products-Parts/Model-39719580/0247/0721000/00021621/00001?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=39719580
The relay is discontinued, but maybe you can search for the part number, or find the manufacturer.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
That is the start relay. It activates the start-up winding and deactivates (Opens) the circuit at about 80% of the operating speed.
If the relay is not working or not wired into the circuit (that is a very dangerous grinder on many counts) the grinder will not spin, and will just hum as rotor does not have the torque offset needed to move through the induced EMF.
I will check to see if I have a schematic for this grinder to help you out with rewiring it safely.
Until then see page 4 "Split-Phase AC Induction Motor" in the following document, which describes your motor. The difference is your Relay takes the place of the Centrifugal Switch in figure 4.
http://jimfranklin.co.uk/microchipdatasheets/00887a.pdf
If it turns out your relay needs service, see the following link on a CM 1 HP Grinder relay clean-up. {Page 5}
Note: the hand drawn schematic in the thread is different from your grinder in several important ways. It should not be used to wire your grinder at this point, with out further review.
« Reply #62 on: August 11, 2013, 08:15:26 PM »
Link to: "Topic: Block Grinder rescue - UPDATE: Go-Blue! 1 H.P. Model 257.191600"
http://tinyurl.com/Go-Blue-Block-Grinder
thanks i am gonna look at it right now
torqueman2002
Well-known member
This might help, I gave my brother this grinder, so I know it's correct.
cbacres
Well-known member
Drivesitfar- not taking anything wrong at all, I got a good laugh out it, you would have to hear some of my conversations around here. That is a nice compact table, a lot in a little space.
Tedsters/Tourqe, my 1/3 HP is identical down to the design #, I'll try to copy the wiring layout and post later tonight. Still working some tonight. I'll post a picture too.
Tedsters/Tourqe, my 1/3 HP is identical down to the design #, I'll try to copy the wiring layout and post later tonight. Still working some tonight. I'll post a picture too.
This might help, I gave my brother this grinder, so I know it's correct.
cbacres torquemans is different looking i think inside i tried taking my laptop in my pole barn and lost my internet maybe i will bring the grinder in the house to get a better look
torqueman2002
Well-known member
I noticed my pictures have the switch at the bottom, the windings are not tied with 'string', and the label does not say 'Industrial'.
But, if the number of wires from the field windings are the same, and the number of relay terminals are the same, electrically they may be the 'same'.
See if you can find a p/n on the relay and any terminal numbers.
Isn't this stuff fun?
cbacres
Well-known member
Tedster, here is shots from my 1/3 HP. Sorry they are dark, it looked great right after I took them. I describe the wiring to confirm
From power cord: Black ( hot) goes directly to toggle switch. ( line side)
White ( neutral ) goes direct to the black box, right side as viewed mounted in housing.
From switch:Yellow ( from load side of switch) goes to motor windings.
From motor windings: Black goes to black box, left side.
Red goes to black box, center, underneath.
Compare the part numbers on mine to yours. I was looking at your photos, but I can't quite make out the yellow and red, looks like there tied together. please make sure the ground ( green) is connected to he housing before plugging in, no offense, just always want to check to be safe.
Please don't hesitate to ask if not clear, sometimes I confuse myself.
From power cord: Black ( hot) goes directly to toggle switch. ( line side)
White ( neutral ) goes direct to the black box, right side as viewed mounted in housing.
From switch:Yellow ( from load side of switch) goes to motor windings.
From motor windings: Black goes to black box, left side.
Red goes to black box, center, underneath.
Compare the part numbers on mine to yours. I was looking at your photos, but I can't quite make out the yellow and red, looks like there tied together. please make sure the ground ( green) is connected to he housing before plugging in, no offense, just always want to check to be safe.
Please don't hesitate to ask if not clear, sometimes I confuse myself.
cbacres
Well-known member
I noticed my pictures have the switch at the bottom, the windings are not tied with 'string', and the label does not say 'Industrial'.
But, if the number of wires from the field windings are the same, and the number of relay terminals are the same, electrically they may be the 'same'.
See if you can find a p/n on the relay and any terminal numbers.
Isn't this stuff fun?
Your always just a 1/2 step ahead of me.
Electrical wiring is a blast, I'll spend hours doing my best to be sure before the switch flips, nasty things happen in a hurry.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Your always just a 1/2 step ahead of me.
Electrical wiring is a blast, I'll spend hours doing my best to be sure before the switch flips, nasty things happen in a hurry.
Better not use mine. Apparently there is an additional wire (Tan) from the load side of the switch to the windings.
Must be the industrial thing that makes the difference.
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ok i appreciate the pics how about if we finish this tomorrow its 9:35 i have to get up at 3:30am hopefully the starter box is still good, should be able to check the continuity in it to see if its still good correct
it appears to be wired the same but i think there maybe some bare wires touching the winding i tried taking a better pic but can't get a pic no wheres near as good as the ones you took, maybe the starter box is bad i don't know