let's see your craftsman block grinders

[-Brent-]

Here's my 1/3 HP machine. It's got a fine and course wheels. The fine needs dressing, as can be seen. That's a task for a nice weather day when I can roll the box outside.

Close-up of the chuck. I'm going to put a steel spacer in the space between the mounting lip and the chuck.

Spare parts.

 

[drivesitfar]

Brent: thanks for the pictures and looking forward to the rest. i tend to agree with your theory that the braided wire wheels will throw off less wires and if they start to get loose then buy another and change it out. we should still wear heavy clothing and full face shields and hopefully we won't have kids or any other people in the area to get hit from the stray ones.

the pictures are coming up slowly, but might be on my end along with your write ups. in case you have the information on where you buy the particular wheels that would be great in case i can't find any at the places i usually buy wheels from.

also just curious why you did 2 layers of 1 inch plywood? did you glue or screw them together and was that because you wanted to use long screws to hold your grinders down.

thanks again for doing this and i'm betting you are going to make quick work of taking a rough piece to a shiny part in no time once you start using this set up.

 

[-Brent-]

Brent: thanks for the pictures and looking forward to the rest. i tend to agree with your theory that the braided wire wheels will throw off less wires and if they start to get loose then buy another and change it out. we should still wear heavy clothing and full face shields and hopefully we won't have kids or any other people in the area to get hit from the stray ones.

the pictures are coming up slowly, but might be on my end along with your write ups. in case you have the information on where you buy the particular wheels that would be great in case i can't find any at the places i usually buy wheels from.

also just curious why you did 2 layers of 1 inch plywood? did you glue or screw them together and was that because you wanted to use long screws to hold your grinders down.

thanks again for doing this and i'm betting you are going to make quick work of taking a rough piece to a shiny part in no time once you start using this set up.

Eye protection is one of my biggest precautions. I hate using it but I'd hate to be blind, too. I wear glasses and didn't always use eye protection, thinking the glasses were enough. I was a teen/20-something at the time and my eye Dr. showed me what life would be like if I didn't use eye protection. That was enough for me!

As for the slow upload, I'm not sure. Could be something with me editing the page as you were trying to view it, since I loaded them onto GJ.

The multiple layers of ply wood was for aesthetic, mostly. Plus, now the sound seems to be deadened even more with them mounted on the thick stuff. I got used to the thickness when I had a piece of butcher block on the top of a box. Really, though, I've got no special reasoning why. It's worked well with the threaded inserts, which are close to an inch long.

Thanks for the compliments. I have used them a bit since with a few small odds and ends. A few buddies have been busting my chops about having so many but the ribbing is all in good fun.

The next project (as far as these machines go) is fabbing some heavy duty covers so that the machine to the side of them isn't putting debris on them while I am using it. I've been thinking about using saddle leather. I can get a low quality hide for cheap and I think it could net me enough to do most of the machines.

 

[softailgarage]

As promised, #2, Dated April 1967, 397.19400. This was still in oem box w/ the hardware kit and eye shields still in a bag, unused. The label/badge is so clean I couldn't believe it. Coil and rotor assembly looked almost new, I figure this machine has less than 40 hours on it. I went with the same color scheme as before, but # 3 i'm thinking about black & silver w/ the Raiders Emblem on the cover plates sorta like the Michigan grinder that was posted (Torqueman). Problem with the Raiders theme is it'll probably get stolen instead of bought (Dont get pissy raider fans, I'm a Raider fan too).







I'm also going to do what Brent and a few other are doing to polish the pole from drill presses. I have a new Jacobs chuck that fits the grinder shaft perfectly but the jaws are to small. I also have a Larger, older Jacobs from a '42 Craftsman DP that I sleeved with a spacer, threaded and press fitted that will accept a hex head bolt threaded into a wood plug to be fitted into one end of the pole. The rest of the pole will be supported by sets of caster wheels.

 

[nine4gmc]

Great job Softail!!!

 

[organ]

Had to replace the switch on my round-top 1/4 HP model. The switch I installed is a Gardner Bender GSW-125. It matches the original pretty closely.

 

[drivesitfar]

Softail: nice score on that sweet block grinder and paint it any dang color or team you wish. i'm not a Raider fan anymore, but i do remember Stabler and Blanda doing some great stuff at the end of games when they were my team.

Brent: thanks for all the pictures and the details on the 3 blocks you have. i know you didn't show the buffer because it was the other "B" company, but i'd be curious what the specs on it are and the wheels and compound you are going to use on them.

you have a great set up there and one i'll probably come close to copying. love to see something go from raw or ugly to pristine if you care to share some later.

 

[Oldboy]

Awesome... Thanks to Jakemac, as well!

I'm about to shoot an order off, too.

Here's the link, one more time.

Thanks to Torqueman2002, Jakemac, and Brent for info on the grommets! I got mine today and installed them. What I thought was a great running grinder has now been totally transformed. All vibration is gone and it's super quiet. Get these. They are worth it!

 

[-Brent-]

...I got mine today and installed them. What I thought was a great running grinder has now been totally transformed. All vibration is gone and it's super quiet. Get these. They are worth it!

Crazy, right?

I'm sure the shipping person at Zoro is wondering what the deal is with the uptick in these grommets, haha.

 

[torqueman2002]

Crazy, right?

I'm sure the shipping person at Zoro is wondering what the deal is with the uptick in these grommets, haha.

I better put in another order fast, before they increase the price.

 

[torqueman2002]

Had to replace the switch on my round-top 1/4 HP model. The switch I installed is a Gardner Bender GSW-125. It matches the original pretty closely.

Thanks for the info.

I Googled the number and it came up with this, among many others. Does this look like what you have?

 

[torqueman2002]

33BA chuck and Standard Abrasive flap wheel.

Flap wheel from the side.

1/2 HP block with an Osborn knotted wire wheel and a Scotchbright wheel. I'm unsure of the part number. The place I get them from just has a big box of them without any numbers I've seen.

1/2 HP machines from the rear. I inserted qa 1/4-20 thread insert and used an 1/2" EMT bracket to organize the wires.

-B-

Thanks for the ideas to putting togething the grinding, wireing, buffering area for my garage/shop.

I installed my first knotted wire wheel on the 1 HP grinder, I won't miss the flying needles from the crimped wheels.

I haven't used a flap disc or a 3M Scotch pad either. What application do you use these for? I mean is there a special job/material they work best on vs. a wire wheel, ...?

Thanks.

 

[-Brent-]

The ScotchBrite wheel is less aggressive than wire but I've found it still knocks a bunch of **** off easily. I like that it leaves a smoother finish after removing burs, rust, whatever. I can't imagine not having one, now. I don't have any bog down using it because it's so light so it powers through the stuff I am using it on.

The flap wheel is something I wanted to test out. I've had great experiences with them on my 4.5" and 7" hand-held grinders. I haven't used it much since it's just been done but I think it'll be good for knocking down edges and such on all the brackets I'm fabbing for my Samurai build.

After that, I've got a bunch of Model A and T Ford stuff to prep for coating or chrome, meaning I'll have a bunch of time to see what works or not. I think the way it's set up might actually be pretty beneficial. We'll see.

 

[organ]

Thanks for the info.

I Googled the number and it came up with this, among many others. Does this look like what you have?

Yes. Amazon carries it: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004WLK8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[torqueman2002]

-B - & O;

Thanks. Never know when those bits of info will be useful. I'm sure I won't remember the details, but I'll remember where to find them.

BTW - I've been toying with turning 1 of the grinders into a buffer, by using arbor/shaft extenders.

I think I read about Caswell Plating on OWWM. (http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/index.html)

I found 5/8" arbor/shaft extender/adapters.
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffing-polishing/buffing-adapters/shaft-extenders.html

I called to be sure what looks like set screws are used to hold the extenders to the shaft. They are.

I suppose thats fine if they are used on a dual shaft motor, but I don't want to mess up the threads on any grinder.

What do you think about grinding a flat on a grinder arbor, for the set screw to seat on? I find it goes against my 'grain'.

Of course, the correct way would be a RH & LH threaded adapter/extension.

Anyone know of a source to try?

Thanks.
Torqueman2002 - too cheap to buy a real buffer.

 

[drivesitfar]

Tourque: i haven't tried exactly what you are thinking of doing because i own a buffer now, but i feel your pain of needing one. since the block's arbors have threads on them it seems like adding on something threaded even if you need to have a friend machine a piece would be a much better option. my 2 cents.

 

[-Brent-]

I just ordered a set of arbor extensions for a project I am building to give away. I've learned a bunch about them.

For my current project, some inexpensive (from Zoro, actually) left and right hand threaded extensions were purchased. These are going on a dual shaft motor, so set screws are no problem. But, Like DrivesItFar says, I'd be worried about marring the threads with set screws.

A solution is to look at the arbor extensions that the DIY wind power guys are using. I'd bet there may be someone already making left/right threaded arbor extensions. If not, a GJer with a lathe could probably knock out a couple sets, inexpensively.

As well, don't go the cheapest route (the ones with Phillips screws) they're known for being unbalanced.

 

[drivesitfar]

I'm not fond of this method of extending the arms of a grinder to make a buffer or wire wheel work better, but a 95 year old client used it on this grinder for maybe 50 years in his hanger and he built several airplanes with it.

i know it's not a block grinder so excuse the tainting of this thread, but several others have mentioned making a buffer out of their blocks so here is one method.

i still think it is best to find a threaded option or have one made by a machinist especially if you have a 3/4 HP or bigger block.

 

[torqueman2002]

I'm not fond of this method of extending the arms of a grinder to make a buffer or wire wheel work better, but a 95 year old client used it on this grinder for maybe 50 years in his hanger and he built several airplanes with it.

i know it's not a block grinder so excuse the tainting of this thread, but several others have mentioned making a buffer out of their blocks so here is one method.

i still think it is best to find a threaded option or have one made by a machinist especially if you have a 3/4 HP or bigger block.

Thanks.

I want a real Baldor buffer, but short of that, I agree a threaded (made to order) adapter/extender is next best.

The motor pictured has keyway slots the allen screws seat into. I can see that working for that style motor.

Oh well, maybe I can call in a favor and get some machined up for me.

Thanks again.

 

[organ]

1/2 HP bearings need to be replaced. Both are marked 503. That's it. Google isn't turning up much.

 

[torqueman2002]

1/2 HP bearings need to be replaced. Both are marked 503. That's it. Google isn't turning up much.

Measure them up in mm.

I'll check my notes on the ones I put in the 3/4 HP and 1 HP to see if they are the same size, I think they will be.

I should have a number for you.

 

[torqueman2002]

OK. For the 1 HP Go-Blue rescue [http://tinyurl.com/Go-Blue-Block-Grinder] the bearings that were original (?) are pictured below.
LH Bearing

RH Bearing

The Bearing Service people measured and replaced them with the following.

OD = 40 mm
ID = 17 mm
Width = 12 mm

Found some for you, if yours match.
http://tinyurl.com/oeo4rq5

Good luck.

 

[organ]

They match. Thanks!

 

[torqueman2002]

They match. Thanks!

Great, glad I could help.

I forgot to post another link to order bearings from.

Here's a thread about ordering bearings online.
http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=93322

BTW - what is the model number & HP?

I'll make a note of it for future reference.

 

[cagullett1]

I hate to taint this thread, but I've been searching for a block grinder for several months and have found NOTHING locally. I came across a Baldor this morning and have no idea if this is a good deal or not because I don't see them come up that often. Price seems a little high, but I figure you guys would know better than me.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/tls/4403607169.html

 

[-Brent-]

I hate to taint this thread, but I've been searching for a block grinder for several months and have found NOTHING locally. I came across a Baldor this morning and have no idea if this is a good deal or not because I don't see them come up that often. Price seems a little high, but I figure you guys would know better than me.

The price doesn't scream "good deal" to me, either, so I think you're right in trusting your gut. I would pass. Then again, my patience netted me all 4 of my machines (combined), one of which includes a Baldor, for less than that.

 

[drivesitfar]

here's a block grinder set up as a buffer with a home made wood case surrounding it. I don't own it yet, but if i do buy it i'll get close ups of the wheels.

 

[organ]

Great, glad I could help.

I forgot to post another link to order bearings from.

Here's a thread about ordering bearings online.
http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=93322

BTW - what is the model number & HP?

I'll make a note of it for future reference.

I found a couple on ebay. $3.50 a piece + $8 S&h.

1/2 HP commercial, model number: 397.19440

 

[madoc1]

after finding this thread last week I looked at cl and picked up this pre-block yesterday. no date on the bottom, but maybe a date on the tag or maybe the casting no.? runs great. $25.
cant get the other pics to load. damn windows 8.

jim

 

[madoc1]

lets try this.

 

[cbacres]

Bet those mud daupers get mad when the grinder is on

 

[torqueman2002]

... no date on the bottom, but maybe a date on the tag ... $25. jim

I'd call it April 1955, based on the machine tag in your other post [#1276].

Just quessing, I've not read this before about CM grinders, but Baldor used a similar meathod for a 1/2 HP 7300 grinder made in Nov. 1961.

If you haven't already looked at a similar CM pre-block grinder restore, here's a link. Be careful when removing arbor/shaft from RH case. If the bearing want to go along for the ride, it can break a hard to find/fix internal switch.

http://tinyurl.com/CM-GJ-Lil-Brownie-115-7566

BTW - Nice little grinder.

 

[bisley45]

lets try this.

April 1955 Nice find

 

[madoc1]

thx. guys. not sure what to do with it yet. got rid of the daubers and the slag so far. thx. for the link. on another note, back somewhere in the teens there is a mention of an arbor that screws on. no set screws. I will let you look it up! lol. I am only about halfway thru reading all the posts.

jim

 

[torqueman2002]

thx. guys. ... thx. for the link. on another note, back somewhere in the teens there is a mention of an arbor that screws on. no set screws. I will let you look it up! jim

You betcha!

I scanned the first 30 or so posts in this thread and didn't see the 1 you're refering to. If you get a chance, can you post up which one (post #)?

Thanks.

 

[madoc1]

dang. i'll try. I know I read it somewhere on gj, just need to remember. old age is a betch.

 

[organ]

Installed new bearings today. Sure does take a long time to wind down; 3:37 from switch off to still.

 

[madoc1]

post #347 was what I was thinking. not sure if those will work. anybody know a good machine shop or where you can buy left hand internal threaded pieces?

 

[Outlawmws]

Check McMaster or Grangers, those would be the usual suspects.

 

[torqueman2002]

post #347 was what I was thinking. not sure if those will work. anybody know a good machine shop or where you can buy left hand internal threaded pieces?

Ha ha, it's quoting my post.

Checking the adapters they too use set screws.

The threaded one I did see is for "Adapter, Rotary Buffer, 5/8"x11, for metal polishing wheels, 5/8" Arbor Hole" http://drdetailforless.com/adapter-rotary-buffer-5-8-x11-for-metal-polishing-wheels-5-8-arbor-hole/

I eMailed them to see if they have treaded bench grinder arbor extenders.

Thanks.

Edit: They replied that they have smooth bore adapters that are helpd woth set screws.

The hunt continues. I may end up haveing some machined.