let's see your craftsman block grinders

[jakemac]

And they multiply number 3 for me

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

I got my third one today as well. $30

This is my second 397.19590 1/2 hp 7" grinder. The first was a 1967, this one is Oct 20 1970. The first says "Industrial Rated". The new one is a Crown logo and says "Craftsman Commercial". The first was missing the side covers, shield glass, and was a mess. The new one is only missing the rubber feet (easily replaced from my stash) and the quench tray (will use the one from the '67).

The light is run from the socket switch, and will stay on even when the grinder is off. It takes about 90 seconds to wind down.
Here it is in "as found" condition.

 

[McBrownie]

I got my third one today as well. $30

This is my second 397.19590 1/2 hp 7" grinder. The first was a 1967, this one is Oct 20 1970. The first says "Industrial Rated". The new one is a Crown logo and says "Craftsman Commercial". The first was missing the side covers, shield glass, and was a mess. The new one is only missing the rubber feet (easily replaced from my stash) and the quench tray (will use the one from the '67).

The light is run from the socket switch, and will stay on even when the grinder is off. It takes about 90 seconds to wind down.
Here it is in "as found" condition.

Jake, Very nice Commercial. So, I have a question. I have a Commercial 397.19591 which I assume is newer than a 19590. It has plastic eye shields, a metal toggle switch, and no date stamp:
View media item 40852
I was guessing that mine was late '60's because it did not have a plastic switch. But, based on your grinder, I think mine might be early '70's.

What are your thoughts? ( Btw, if it is newer than yours, that would be a good thing for personal sentimental reasons. )

 

[drivesitfar]

Jake: awesome find on that commercial block. you can guess what I think about your $30 price tag.?????? since it's a commercial version any thoughts to re wiring it to a 220 and turning it into a buffer? I just didn't want to be the first to do it with mine, but I do want to try it and see the difference.

then you won't need to steal the water tray from the older one.

nice find and 3 is not enough unless you have another brand one close by.

Bisley: congrats on the new addition to the family. since you already have a couple more in the shop I suggest getting a 5 gallon bucket of water and selling all the water trays to those that need those little ones. I've almost broke my water trays just by moving my blocks a few feet when they fell off the grinder or stand and hit the cement floor.

 

[jakemac]

I was guessing that mine was late '60's because it did not have a plastic switch. But, based on your grinder, I think mine might be early '70's.

What are your thoughts? ( Btw, if it is newer than yours, that would be a good thing for personal sentimental reasons. )

Yours has the "Princess Leia" buns (instead of the round bubbles) on the side covers, so that would place it in the mid-70's I believe. Pre-flat top, just.

Jake: since it's a commercial version any thoughts to re wiring it to a 220 and turning it into a buffer?

I don't have a convenient 220 outlet near my grinding/buffing area, so I'm sticking to 110.

 

[McBrownie]

Yours has the "Princess Leia" buns (instead of the round bubbles) on the side covers, so that would place it in the mid-70's I believe. Pre-flat top, just.

Cool! I've seen some flat tops on this thread with 1974 date stamps. I'm going to place mine between yours and theirs. So, 1971, 72, or 73. We'll probably never know for sure, but that works for me. Thanks!

 

[67carl]

Picked up my 2nd one today, this one with a stand. Paid $40. Seemed to run fine when I looked at it (just a quick on/off). When I got home I took it off the base, turned it on again and it has a slight wobble in the wheels. Could it be the grinding or wire wheel out of shape or something worse? Options for fixing if it's something else?

On a side note, this guy works in a wrecking yard had a garage and several sheds full of stuff. On a whim, I asked him if he had any other tool for sale and mentioned Wilton vices. He smiled and started moving stuff around. Uncovered what looked like a C3, and clamped in it's jaws was a rock island. He then took me around the side of his house and siting there was the biggest damn vise I'd ever seen. It was mounted on a tri-pod like stand, only the legs were steel pipes probably 6-8 inches around and looked like one of those things on the beach during WW2 designed to keep amphibious vehicles from landing! Then he lifted a tarp and there was a second 1! Massive. Then he opens a shed, shows me 2 more Wilton bullets (a baby and a mid-size) along with another Rock Island. Wish I had my camera. Of course I asked him if any were for sale but he hymed and hawed, not really sure. I told him to let me know if he wants to sell and that I'd likely be pestering him on a regular basis!

Anyway, if you could advise regarding the wobble it would be appreciated. A pic of my block with some of my other Craigslist finds:

 

[txusa03]

Thanks Copilot.

McB, you done good. I am not worthy.

 

[drivesitfar]

Carl: Pictures of the vises are a must to post on the vise thread or just to PM to me. if you saw a C3 which weighs 202 pounds and the vise under the tarp was way bigger then I really would like to see which one it might be along with the others.

now as far as your wobble it is hopefully in your one of your wheels. the others might know better so wait until they chime in before you try to fix it. i'd say to take both wheels off completely with all the hardware because it probably needs a good cleaning. then turn it on without any washers or anything on the arbors to see if you still see the wobble or if it sounds funny. if it does you could have a bent arbor if it might have been dropped. my guess it will not wobble and you can put it back together and maybe change to new wheels.

on a side note many grinder wheels have small cracks or moisture in them and could explode during use somewhere down the road. there isn't a sure fire test on a "ring" test, but give that a try first. if it doesn't ring Tourqueman found out there are some that won't ring so check it out under I very bright light and see if you see any cracks or damage. typically i'd change out the grinder stones on any grinder I've had from a shop where there were kids or it wasn't kept up nice. your call and stay safe.

 

[67carl]

Carl: Pictures of the vises are a must to post on the vise thread or just to PM to me. if you saw a C3 which weighs 202 pounds and the vise under the tarp was way bigger then I really would like to see which one it might be along with the others.

now as far as your wobble it is hopefully in your one of your wheels. the others might know better so wait until they chime in before you try to fix it. i'd say to take both wheels off completely with all the hardware because it probably needs a good cleaning. then turn it on without any washers or anything on the arbors to see if you still see the wobble or if it sounds funny. if it does you could have a bent arbor if it might have been dropped. my guess it will not wobble and you can put it back together and maybe change to new wheels.

on a side note many grinder wheels have small cracks or moisture in them and could explode during use somewhere down the road. there isn't a sure fire test on a "ring" test, but give that a try first. if it doesn't ring Tourqueman found out there are some that won't ring so check it out under I very bright light and see if you see any cracks or damage. typically i'd change out the grinder stones on any grinder I've had from a shop where there were kids or it wasn't kept up nice. your call and stay safe.

Can't be positive it was a C3 as there was A LOT of stuff in there (piled near to the ceiling), lighting was dim and I was leaning over and around stuff to get a look. He was a little skittish about the vises so I'm going to try and play it cool. Got the impression he was one of those guys who likes his stuff and gets a little squirrelly at the thought of parting with it.

I'll text him in a few days with an offer on the big boy and either the baby or medium, see what he says. If I do get back out there I will definitely get some pics of the massive ones that are sitting outside on the pylons. BTW - we are near a de-commissioned Air Force base and he thought those might have come from there. I joked they were probably off a battleship!

Thanks for the ideas on testing the grinder. I'll give it a shot tomorrow if I can - got to change the alternator on my S10...

 

[drivesitfar]

Carl: no hurry on the vise pictures, but just hoping you get them and better yet pictures of them in your garage.

now one thing I might have forgot to mention is there are 4 rubber feet on these blocks and maybe one escaped in the trip home so check to see if all are there. still a good idea to check the wheels.

good luck with the truck because you'll need it running good to pick up the 400 pound vise.

 

[bulletpruf]

Fellas -

Love the block grinders; am in the market for one myself. I'm going to use this in a well equipped garage (drill press, MIG, press, etc) for car-related stuff. Garage will be wired for 220, but will probably run this on 110.

A few questions -

Since I'm overseas (ships to APO - zip 96204), I'm stuck with buying one from eBay, here, and I'm not sure where else. There are only two on eBay now, so not much of a selection. Where else can I find these listed?

What would be the "ultimate" Craftsman block grinder? Vintage, size, hp, and accessories? Not looking to spend new Baldor $$$ on one of these, but I won't mind spending more than $100 for a nice one. I read a few pages of the thread, but don't necessarily have the time to devote to reading 2,300 posts.

Thanks!

Scott

 

[jakemac]

Fellas -

What would be the "ultimate" Craftsman block grinder? Vintage, size, hp, and accessories?

You might as well ask the forum what shade of blue. You're going to get hundreds of different answers.

My recommendation is to look for either a 6" or 8" model. The reason is because of your local. The wheels are easier to find in those sizes nowadays. The 7" can be hard to find and typically will end up being ordered online at a higher cost.

As for vintage, hp, and style (round or flat top, exhaust port or none), that will likely be determined by your needs, preferences, and availability.

As far as sources, being in Korea makes it tough unless you have someone stateside that can search one out on craigslist for you and ship it over.

Good luck with your hunt.

 

[bulletpruf]

You might as well ask the forum what shade of blue. You're going to get hundreds of different answers.

My recommendation is to look for either a 6" or 8" model. The reason is because of your local. The wheels are easier to find in those sizes nowadays. The 7" can be hard to find and typically will end up being ordered online at a higher cost.

As for vintage, hp, and style (round or flat top, exhaust port or none), that will likely be determined by your needs, preferences, and availability.

As far as sources, being in Korea makes it tough unless you have someone stateside that can search one out on craigslist for you and ship it over.

Good luck with your hunt.

Ok, I had heard that the 7" wheels were harder to find.

As for hp, I'm always of the opinion that more is better. If 1/3 hp is good, then 1 hp should be 3x as good, right?

I'm probably going to limit my search to eBay; shipping is to the west coast and the military takes it from there. Don't really want to mess with Craigslist. Will probably look for one that it restored or mint used condition. Realize I will have to pay a premium.

Is there a "Block Grinder 101" page, site, or something like that? I didn't find anything after a Google search. Would rather read up there instead of asking 100 questions.

Thanks!

Scott

 

[McBrownie]

Ok, I had heard that the 7" wheels were harder to find.

As for hp, I'm always of the opinion that more is better. If 1/3 hp is good, then 1 hp should be 3x as good, right?

I'm probably going to limit my search to eBay; shipping is to the west coast and the military takes it from there. Don't really want to mess with Craigslist. Will probably look for one that it restored or mint used condition. Realize I will have to pay a premium.

Is there a "Block Grinder 101" page, site, or something like that? I didn't find anything after a Google search. Would rather read up there instead of asking 100 questions.

Thanks!

Scott

Scott,

Maybe I can help narrow it down a bit. Since you are looking for the "ultimate", I'll assume you mean "most powerful", which means a 1HP. I believe these are all 8", so that's a good thing. You will want either a model number beginning with 257 or 397. You will want it to be rated "industrial" or "commercial" which will be dual voltage, capacitor start. I think all 1HP are dual voltage anyway.

So that leaves the only choice being vintage, of which you have the following choices:

1960's - round top, metal framed eye-shields, metal name plate, bubble side covers.
Late 60's, early '70's - round top, plastic eye-shields, stick-on name plate, "princess leia" side covers.
1970's - flat top, plastic eye-shields, red and white/silver stick-on name plate princess leia" side covers..
1980's - flat top, plastic eye-shields, black and silver stick-on name plate princess leia" side covers.
1990's - all black flat top, plastic eye-shields, black and white stick on name plate princess leia" side covers.

Now, I'm not sure if all of those vintages come in 1HP 8" configurations, but TorqueMan has started putting together this resource list that should help you narrow your search down even further:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249539

Happy hunting!

 

[torqueman2002]

It is complete! My 1/2HP 257.191401. ...

And here is the finished product ...
View media item 41436
... there is no way I could get my money back. Looks like I'll have to use it!

McB Nice looking Block!

Good job on the eye shields.

I will include it in the 'restore' section of the "Craftsman Block motor Bench Grinders - What's the Fuss (with resource information)" thread.
http://tinyurl.com/CM-Block-Grinders-Why-the-Fuss

What paint brand and colors did you use? Any helpful hints on your process of prep and paint?

Thanks for posting it.

I agree - don't quit your day job fellas, these are fun to restore/rescue/recondition. But, there's not a lot of money to be made.

I am happy to still find reasonably priced Blocks around.

 

[drivesitfar]

Bullet: I'm pretty sure you will learn all you need to know about how to restore a block if you can't find a pristine one in TM's thread he has on another forum. http://www.thegaragegazette.com/index.php?topic=18119.0

in my opinion this is the nicest 1 HP grinder around and i think his son now owns it so not for sale. see the larger water tray and TM changed out the factory huge tool rests that came out of it to the smaller ones that attach to the grinders wheel covers. there might be some pictures of the 3/4 and 1 HP grinders with those huge tool rests so you can see what i'm looking for and talking about. also 1/3 HP block has plenty of power for most jobs, but i'm betting you'll have a hard time stopping a wheel on a 3/4 or 1 HP one especially if you can wire it up for 220 power and use it that way.

i live about 45 minutes from Fort Lewis and drive that way at least once a month in case i could help and drop off a package or a grinder off at a friend's house to ship to you. PM me if you need some help.

by the way i'm looking for one of these 3/4 to 1 HP grinders for myself and haven't seen one in a while. i was able to pick up a nice commercial 1/2 HP one on it's original stand for under $200 about 6 months ago, but one or two or maybe 3 blocks isn't enough for a GJ member so always on the search.

 

[bczygan]

Fellas -

Love the block grinders; am in the market for one myself. I'm going to use this in a well equipped garage (drill press, MIG, press, etc) for car-related stuff. Garage will be wired for 220, but will probably run this on 110.

A few questions -

Since I'm overseas (ships to APO - zip 96204), I'm stuck with buying one from eBay, here, and I'm not sure where else. There are only two on eBay now, so not much of a selection. Where else can I find these listed?

What would be the "ultimate" Craftsman block grinder? Vintage, size, hp, and accessories? Not looking to spend new Baldor $$$ on one of these, but I won't mind spending more than $100 for a nice one. I read a few pages of the thread, but don't necessarily have the time to devote to reading 2,300 posts.

Thanks!

Scott

Note:

Just because you have an APO address, don't discount CL. I got my 1HP shipped NIB by the seller from Pittsburgh. It may take some sweet talking, as it did for me, but no reason you can't get it done.

 

[McBrownie]

McB Nice looking Block!

Good job on the eye shields.

I will include it in the 'restore' section of the "Craftsman Block motor Bench Grinders - What's the Fuss (with resource information)" thread.
http://tinyurl.com/CM-Block-Grinders-Why-the-Fuss

What paint brand and colors did you use? Any helpful hints on your process of prep and paint?

Thanks for posting it.

I agree - don't quit your day job fellas, these are fun to restore/rescue/recondition. But, there's not a lot of money to be made.

I am happy to still find reasonably priced Blocks around.

Thanks TM! I used Rustoleum "Flat Soft Iron" for the dark gray and Rustoleum Silver Metallic for the center tin. I clear coated everything with Rustoleum Crystal Clear. Nothing special on the prep. I took everything down to bare metal, except the label, of course. I filed any rough casting bumps down until they were smooth. I spent some time masking around the label with blue painters tape ( and scissors ). Then I wiped it down with lacquer thinner and let everything sit in direct sun, paint cans included, until they were warm. That paint can trick came from a powder coater over on the Vises thread. The original tin color was more of a primer gray, but I went with silver like the older blocks. No date stamp on this one, but castings were marked November, 1983. So, it's probably a 1984 model.

 

[drivesitfar]

McB: by the way i forgot to mention what a great job you did on those block grinders. i know you have mentioned more than once about the damaged label so i think McNew was working on a method to have one etched in metal. also i know several of the guys might have that label saved to their computer so you can make a new one with their help if you want to. it looks fine and with a little grit and dust from working on a project hanging off it i'm sure you might not notice it as much. nice and shiny now though and hope to see them on a stand soon.

i know you are thinking about making a stand out of a steel pole and maybe a brake drum or old car or truck wheel which can be done if you find those materials and have a little welding skills. or did you happen to see Outlaw's post where he made a wood base attached to the block with a board screwed or glued and screwed to the bottom that he sets in his wood vise. that way when not in use it stores under the bench or up on a shelf sort of like your Dayton one does when you flip it under.

he is on the road i think for a few days so if he has a picture it might be a while, but it sounds like a quick fix to your grinder stand issue unless you really want to take the grinder out of the garage to let the dust and grit fly out there. here's my baldor buffer on a homemade stand one of my clients made for it.

cheers

 

[torqueman2002]

Bullet - Welcome to the CM Block grinder thread. I'll reply in Blue, below.

... wired for 220, but will probably run this on 110. Most of the Commercial/Industrial rated Blocks are dual voltage. That might help with your decision. ...
What would be the "ultimate" Craftsman block grinder? Vintage, size, hp, and accessories? ... more than $100 for a nice one. As has already been posted, the application will determine the HP for the most part. My experience is the 1/2 HP is a good all-around grinder. See the list I've put together below. The 3/4 and 1 HP are very powerful and demand respect. I read a few pages of the thread, but don't necessarily have the time to devote to reading 2,300 posts. Me either! I'm putting together a thread with links, references, and rebuilds located in the first 4 pages, to make searches easier. The link is in my sig. line; and included below the attached chart.

Thanks!

Scott

Link to: "Craftsman Block motor Bench Grinders - What's the Fuss (with resource information)"
http://tinyurl.com/CM-Block-Grinders-Why-the-Fuss

You will save a bit of money, and enjoy the rebuild of a Block that is less than in prime condition.

After doing 1 or 2 of these, I recommend:
replace (as routine) the following

• bearings
• grinding stone(s)
• capacitor, if equipped

replace (depending on condition) the following

• power cord
• power switch - clean or replace
• relay - clean or replace
• start-up winding switch - clean or replace
• internal wiring/terminals

add, optional safety feature

• power cord fuse

 

[torqueman2002]

drives - Thanks for the shout out. I am pleased with the way it turned out, considering it was in such bad shape when I found it.

Also, I need to post faster. I was busy with assembling my previous post, when others were posting.

McB - Thank you for the info and hint/tip. How close a match is the Rustoleum "Flat Iron" for the dark gray to the original dark gray? To me, it is spot on, but the net can play tricks.

Again - nice job!

 

[McBrownie]

TM, since you are updating your resources thread, I thought you could use a picture of an original 397.19591. The only thing I did to this one was repaint the center tin. They should all be this easy! I also used the garbage can stand. Balane has his stump. I have a garbage can.

View media item 41515

 

[McBrownie]

drives - Thanks for the shout out. I am pleased with the way it turned out, considering it was in such bad shape when I found it.

Also, I need to post faster. I was busy with assembling my previous post, when others were posting.

McB - Thank you for the info and hint/tip. How close a match is the Rustoleum "Flat Iron" for the dark gray to the original dark gray? To me, it is spot on, but the net can play tricks.

Again - nice job!

The "Flat Soft Iron" (i just checked and that is the official name) is very close. I probably could have gotten closer with an automotive color, but I wanted to see how something that is readily available from a big box store would do. I clear coated it to make it easier to dust off. Both the silver and the gray had a satin-like finish. The Crystal Clear is a gloss and should be easier to keep clean.

 

[Mach5]

Any links to a discussion of applications? I want to know...is bigger always better? If I'm mostly using it to wire brush metal parts to clean off corrosion and such, what size would be best? Thanks.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

[torqueman2002]

TM, since you are updating your resources thread, I thought you could use a picture of an original 397.19591. The only thing I did to this one was repaint the center tin. They should all be this easy! I also used the garbage can stand. Balane has his stump. I have a garbage can.

View media item 41515

I'll be sure to include this fine example; and your universal stand.

You got me to thinking though. What display do I have?

Before.

After.

Before.

After.

Before.

After.

So, it looks like I have different ones, but there's usually a bush somewhere in the pic. I've always been a nature lover!

 

[torqueman2002]

The "Flat Soft Iron" (i just checked and that is the official name) is very close. I probably could have gotten closer with an automotive color, but I wanted to see how something that is readily available from a big box store would do. I clear coated it to make it easier to dust off. Both the silver and the gray had a satin-like finish. The Crystal Clear is a gloss and should be easier to keep clean.

I'm with you on keeping it simple and cost effective. I like the Clear Coat idea.

 

[torqueman2002]

Any links to a discussion of applications? I want to know...is bigger always better? If I'm mostly using it to wire brush metal parts to clean off corrosion and such, what size would be best? Thanks.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

This might help.

Bench Grinder Basics - March 1990 Popular Mechanics.
http://tinyurl.com/79k26ma

 

[67carl]

...now as far as your wobble it is hopefully in your one of your wheels. the others might know better so wait until they chime in before you try to fix it. i'd say to take both wheels off completely with all the hardware because it probably needs a good cleaning. then turn it on without any washers or anything on the arbors to see if you still see the wobble or if it sounds funny. if it does you could have a bent arbor if it might have been dropped. my guess it will not wobble and you can put it back together and maybe change to new wheels.

I took wheels off and it appears to run straight and true! thanks drivesitfar! I'll be getting replacement wheels.

 

[drivesitfar]

67: glad to hear you didn't have a bent arbor. hopefully a few blocks with all different wheels and you'll be shining and sharpening steel with the best of us. good luck.

TM: i probably would put the M (big blue) machine on my laptop as a screensaver because it really pops off your stainless bench with all those hand tools in the background. if you could only get the dogs in that picture i would then have to. of course any picture you take of your restored blocks is just fine with me (us) and also the way you go through them while taking pictures and writing posts or threads during the process is why half of us own one. keep up the good work.

 

[bulletpruf]

Scott,

Maybe I can help narrow it down a bit. Since you are looking for the "ultimate", I'll assume you mean "most powerful", which means a 1HP. I believe these are all 8", so that's a good thing. You will want either a model number beginning with 257 or 397. You will want it to be rated "industrial" or "commercial" which will be dual voltage, capacitor start. I think all 1HP are dual voltage anyway.

So that leaves the only choice being vintage, of which you have the following choices:

1960's - round top, metal framed eye-shields, metal name plate, bubble side covers.
Late 60's, early '70's - round top, plastic eye-shields, stick-on name plate, "princess leia" side covers.
1970's - flat top, plastic eye-shields, red and white/silver stick-on name plate princess leia" side covers..
1980's - flat top, plastic eye-shields, black and silver stick-on name plate princess leia" side covers.
1990's - all black flat top, plastic eye-shields, black and white stick on name plate princess leia" side covers.

Now, I'm not sure if all of those vintages come in 1HP 8" configurations, but TorqueMan has started putting together this resource list that should help you narrow your search down even further:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249539

Happy hunting!

Thanks, McBrownie. This is extremely helpful. Think I'll see if I can find a 1 hp 8" model, preferably round top.

TorqueMan's thread is a great reference. Thanks for linking that.

Scott

 

[bulletpruf]

Bullet: I'm pretty sure you will learn all you need to know about how to restore a block if you can't find a pristine one in TM's thread he has on another forum. http://www.thegaragegazette.com/index.php?topic=18119.0

in my opinion this is the nicest 1 HP grinder around and i think his son now owns it so not for sale. see the larger water tray and TM changed out the factory huge tool rests that came out of it to the smaller ones that attach to the grinders wheel covers. there might be some pictures of the 3/4 and 1 HP grinders with those huge tool rests so you can see what i'm looking for and talking about. also 1/3 HP block has plenty of power for most jobs, but i'm betting you'll have a hard time stopping a wheel on a 3/4 or 1 HP one especially if you can wire it up for 220 power and use it that way.

i live about 45 minutes from Fort Lewis and drive that way at least once a month in case i could help and drop off a package or a grinder off at a friend's house to ship to you. PM me if you need some help.

by the way i'm looking for one of these 3/4 to 1 HP grinders for myself and haven't seen one in a while. i was able to pick up a nice commercial 1/2 HP one on it's original stand for under $200 about 6 months ago, but one or two or maybe 3 blocks isn't enough for a GJ member so always on the search.

Drivesitfar -

Appreciate the details and the link. Agree that 1/3 hp is probably plenty, but I'm in no hurry to find a grinder. Have a year before I'll have my garage set up again. Might was well find a real monster and then maybe a 1/3 hp to go with it.

Don't have any buddies at Ft Lewis, but thanks for the offer.

Sending you a pm.

Thanks!

Scott

 

[bulletpruf]

Note:

Just because you have an APO address, don't discount CL. I got my 1HP shipped NIB by the seller from Pittsburgh. It may take some sweet talking, as it did for me, but no reason you can't get it done.

Thanks, just have zero time to search CL.

Scott

 

[bulletpruf]

Bullet - Welcome to the CM Block grinder thread. I'll reply in Blue, below.

Link to: "Craftsman Block motor Bench Grinders - What's the Fuss (with resource information)"
http://tinyurl.com/CM-Block-Grinders-Why-the-Fuss

You will save a bit of money, and enjoy the rebuild of a Block that is less than in prime condition.

After doing 1 or 2 of these, I recommend:
replace (as routine) the following

• bearings
• grinding stone(s)
• capacitor, if equipped

replace (depending on condition) the following

• power cord
• power switch - clean or replace
• relay - clean or replace
• start-up winding switch - clean or replace
• internal wiring/terminals

add, optional safety feature

• power cord fuse

TM -

Thanks for the detailed response.

I would certainly enjoy completely going thru a block grinder, but am short on time, workspace and tools until I get back to the states in a year. Mail here also takes quite a while, so I would be waiting for up to 30 days on parts that I ordered. Will see if I can find one (or two) that are pretty much ready to go. If you have any for sale or know of a nice one (8" wheel, prefer round top, 3/4 or 1 hp, etc), can you please pm me?

Thanks again,

Scott

 

[chris30066]

Picked up a 1/2 hp model with a stand off craigslist the other day. Runs a little rough, but I think it's just an unbalanced wheel. I plan to try it with the grinding stones removed to test tonight.

 

[bczygan]

Thanks, just have zero time to search CL.

Scott

That's where this thread, and all us guys on it, come in.

Tell us what you want, what your budget is, some quick contact info, and we'll find and hold it for you so you can pay the guy and get it shipped.

Bill

 

[softailgarage]

Hey, anybody notice the C'man block grinder on the table behind Frank during the intro section of American Pickers?

 

[ShadowRuleZ]

Hey, anybody notice the C'man block grinder on the table behind Frank during the intro section of American Pickers?

Acutally I have and I've seen a few in the workshops they go through. Turned into a habit now that I always look at grinders and vises to see what they're using on any show.

 

[softailgarage]

Acutally I have and I've seen a few in the workshops they go through. Turned into a habit now that I always look at grinders and vises to see what they're using on any show.

I'm telling ya man, it's like a sickness, I can pick out a block grinder from 100 yards

 

[softailgarage]

Still looking for a switch for a 397.19580. I'm in the middle of a restore and cant go any further without it. All the other models I have are newer and have the white plastic toggle.

 

[torqueman2002]

TM - ... If you have any for sale or know of a nice one (8" wheel, prefer round top, 3/4 or 1 hp, etc), can you please pm me? ... Scott

Will do.

BTW, you are 3rd in line for 1 HP, 2nd for 3/4 HP.