let's see your craftsman block grinders

[McBrownie]

McB: It sounds like your health is maybe 100% again and very happy to see you were able to make your plan work with the belt grinder addition. I've seen several steel washers take up a gap on the arbor on some wheels I've owned, but your plywood and having Kevin make a better fix sounds better. are you going to put a metal guide on the wheel or is the way it is now except for the plywood replacement that way you'll be using it?

very nice and hard to believe it was 60 in Cleveland today because we have snow on the ground here in Seattle. go figure.


by the way whenever you get time to finish the Prentiss' Japanning is ok by me and i'm sure the others that are waiting to see your professional method and great posts will wait until you have some time to do it.

Thanks, I'm moving around like a normal 52 year-old again. It's no fun feeling 85 and I'm not planning on bouncing off of the pavement again anytime soon.

There is a side table attachment for this unit, but I have read that it is kind of flimsy. Seems like I could do better with an old Craftsman side table. They have some on ebay, but I'd have to figure out how to mount it. That is half the fun. They don't sell a guide, or tool rest, for the belt which surprises me. If you think about the direction that this runs and that the platen is on the top surface, it wouldn't work in the vertical position. In other words, it's backwards. Not a surprise coming from Australia. Maybe their grinders run backwards too. I have seen where some people mount this "upside down" on the left side of the grinder and fabricate a tool rest, but then you can't attach the side table. Oh well, for the price of one contact wheel on a higher end machine, I can't complain. It's a nice unit.

 

[McBrownie]

For some reason my browser (chrome) didn't like your link, so lets try this:
MT362 2x36 belt grinder attachment

I'm very envious and think that as soon as I find a 3/4 horse block, I'm getting one as well.

Brown,
Thanks for fixing that link. I have a 1/2hp commercial too. When I get the spacer made, I'll probably try hooking it up on that one so I can compare and contrast. My thought is that it will do just fine on a 1/2hp cap start. Although, I have a 1/2hp Split-Phase too. Hmmmm, this is going to turn into consumer reports!

 

[torqueman2002]

I see that I have some reading to catch up on. Looks like great things are afoot!

Right now, I want to alert anyone interested to a 1/2 HP round top industrial rated Block in the St. Louis area. Posted 2 days ago. Too far for me and a bit pricey, but it looks complete. Take a look.

http://stlouis.craigslist.org/tls/4781913437.html

It has a sturdy base and there's a drill bit sharpener shown, but not listed. It maybe included.

 

[torqueman2002]

Does anyone have a clue what make, model, HP this guy is? To my eye, there's a Block family resemblance.

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/4784955646.html

 

[torqueman2002]

McB - Good to read you are feeling better!

That is a sweat set-up and one I'm envious of. (Oh no! I just ended a sentience with a preposition. Sister Mary - I'm sorry. )

I'll have to make room in my line-up for that.

Thanks for the paint match information, too.

 

[bluebolt]

Does anyone have a clue what make, model, HP this guy is? To my eye, there's a Block family resemblance.

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/4784955646.html

Black and Decker, likely a 3/4HP 8"

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=7320

 

[exmaxima1]

So, what's it like? Pretty darn amazing, that's what! It is more than enough machine for my needs and I'm glad it is on a 3/4hp grinder. With a Scotch-Brite belt, I felt like all 3/4hp was used getting that thing spinning, however once running I could not bog it down. Other belts have posed no problems.

How does it fit on an old 3/4hp Block Grinder? Well............ Here is my first installation, plywood spacer and all.
As you can see, there is a 1-1/4" gap between the unit and the housing. This is because of the way the shaft is ground on these old 5/8" spindles. I am certainly not going to mess with the spindle, so I'm having a spacer made. .

A couple of quick comments--

I have the same belt sander adapter mounted on a 1/2 HP Baldor, and I routinely give the belt a push by hand to get it spinning. Unless you have a Cap Start grinder, there isn't much startup torque and it takes a few seconds to spool up.

Regarding the spacer, I am curious what your spindle looks like. I have a 3/4 hp CM Block that uses a circlip (retainer ring) as the wheel stop, but the shaft is 5/8" diameter quite a bit past the groove. You could remove the clip ring and install a shaft collar further up the shaft in lieu of making a spacer. A clamp collar similar to this would be fine:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#6435k15/=uu68pw

You might need to add a spacer to the end of the spindle to mount the drive wheel if you run out of threads but that might be better than hanging the wheel out so far.

Just a thought.....

 

[Pupuhd]

Does anyone have a clue what make, model, HP this guy is? To my eye, there's a Block family resemblance.

I agree with bluebolt, definitely a Black & Decker. There are three selling around me now. About $100 each, two on pedestal stands. However they were all 3 phase units.

I "see" said the blind man to the deaf man as he picked up his hammer and saw.

 

[torqueman2002]

Black and Decker, likely a 3/4HP 8"

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=7320

I agree with bluebolt, definitely a Black & Decker. There are three selling around me now. About $100 each, two on pedestal stands. However they were all 3 phase units.

I "see" said the blind man to the deaf man as he picked up his hammer and saw.

I concur.

Thanks for the link. Looks like it's worth saving.
After restore.

Notice the "kevlar-fire proof welder's sleeves conscripted to catch swarf."

 

[McBrownie]

A couple of quick comments--

I have the same belt sander adapter mounted on a 1/2 HP Baldor, and I routinely give the belt a push by hand to get it spinning. Unless you have a Cap Start grinder, there isn't much startup torque and it takes a few seconds to spool up.

Regarding the spacer, I am curious what your spindle looks like. I have a 3/4 hp CM Block that uses a circlip (retainer ring) as the wheel stop, but the shaft is 5/8" diameter quite a bit past the groove. You could remove the clip ring and install a shaft collar further up the shaft in lieu of making a spacer. A clamp collar similar to this would be fine:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#6435k15/=uu68pw

You might need to add a spacer to the end of the spindle to mount the drive wheel if you run out of threads but that might be better than hanging the wheel out so far.

Just a thought.....

Exmax,
Mine goes from .625" on the threaded size of the circlip to .667" on the motor side of the circlip, and then to a press fit for the bearing (17mm). A little grinding would let the supplied flange to slide right over. However, I would then have to clearance the aluminum wheel for a slip fit. Without a machine shop, that seems risky. The chance to introduce run out would be pretty high. I am still going to use your shaft collar idea. I'll remove the circlip, and clearance the flange only for a slip fit. I think the collar will give a much better surface for the flange to sit against and will allow me to make the spacer about 1/2" to 3/4" thinner without having to mess with the aluminum wheel. Right now, the flange they supplied has no run out (measured that with an indicator). The spindle is straight as an arrow, but assembled, my aluminum wheel has about .016" run out on the outer edge - also measured with a dial indicator. I'm hoping to improve on that, so thank you for the idea. I also ordered a 3/4" shaft collar to replace the dreaded castle nut on a Prentiss vise I'm restoring. One idea - two solutions!

By the way, your advice to go with 48" model did not fall on deaf ears. I gave it a lot of thought and, if I was planning on using this more, I would have gone that route. I am having fun with this thing, though. Everyone send me your gardening tools and I'll sharpen them all!

 

[dngrmse]

I just picked this up yesterday. I would like to set it up exclusively as a buffer/polisher, I already have a couple of smaller 6in. grinders. What is the general consensus for doing this? Good idea? Thanks

[/URL][/IMG]

 

[rickhigginshtbr]

That's what I use my two for. Wire Wheel / firm pad on one, medium and soft pads on the other. use red rouge on the hard, white on the medium, blue on the soft. works pretty well!

 

[Pupuhd]

Pup: i just bought a Monarch 223 a few weeks ago and just noticed you had a thread in your signature about one you bought and restored. i went to that thread and saw a few pictures of yours unrestored and then all the newer pictures were erased. any chance you can go back to your thread and put in some of the Monarch 223 pictures and let me know on this thread if you did?

drivesitfar, looking back at some of these posts I noticed your post regarding my Prentiss vise. At some point I reorganized my photobucket account and links to the missing photos were lost. During that time I acquired a Columbian 4-1/2" vise at a yard sale for $2.50 and a week later scored the swivel base for another $7. So the Prentiss vise resto fell to the back burner. However I may still have those missing photos somewhere on my photobucket account. If you'd like I can give you a link to that folder. Also I have the Prentiss vise still apart at one of my benches. Let me know, thanks.

I "see" said the blind man to the deaf man as he picked up his hammer and saw.

 

[drivesitfar]

dng: i would keep the 1/2 hp commercial one you just bought for your stone and wire wheel and turn another one of your blocks into a buffer. reason being you have the nice water tray and stout tool rests on that one that you won't need for a buffer. take a look back a few pages and see what JCM did to extend his arbors or buy a right and left handed thread extension to extend yours.

Pup: can you email me the pictures of your Monarch 223 that you are calling a Prentiss? i'll PM you now. thanks

 

[exmaxima1]

Exmax,
Mine goes from .625" on the threaded size of the circlip to .667" on the motor side of the circlip, and then to a press fit for the bearing (17mm). A little grinding would let the supplied flange to slide right over. However, I would then have to clearance the aluminum wheel for a slip fit. Without a machine shop, that seems risky. The chance to introduce run out would be pretty high. I am still going to use your shaft collar idea. I'll remove the circlip, and clearance the flange only for a slip fit. I think the collar will give a much better surface for the flange to sit against and will allow me to make the spacer about 1/2" to 3/4" thinner without having to mess with the aluminum wheel. Right now, the flange they supplied has no run out (measured that with an indicator). The spindle is straight as an arrow, but assembled, my aluminum wheel has about .016" run out on the outer edge - also measured with a dial indicator. I'm hoping to improve on that,

I had recently replaced the bearings on my 3/4 block, and I didn't notice the .667 diameter inboard of the retaining rings, but I just checked my machine and it is indeed like yours---bummer.

Your idea to still use the collars will require that you bore them to .667" which I think is an odd drill size. I don't know how you could make it work without a lathe.

I also have found that the newer MT belt adapters have a simpler drive wheel than my old version. My wheel has a large hub that mounts with a tapered collet, which locks the hub and runs very true to the shaft. Yours AFAIK is just a flat flange that mounts like a grinding wheel, which explains how you can open the ID to whatever you want. Adding a collar as a mounting flange would likely prove worthwhile.

BTW, I think I have a 5/8 collar that I could bore to .667" and mail to you if you like. I cringe when I think of you using a Dremel to modify a collar. Send me a PM with your address and confirm the dimension. Please note that I am NOT a machinist, but I should be able to get close.

 

[dngrmse]

Drivesitfar;
Thanks for the advice, my other grinders aren't block grinders, they are newer cheap ones(1 Ryobi, and 1 PC) that slow down in a strong breeze. I mostly use my grinders for buffing, and they really are under-powered. Hopefully I can find another block at some point to have one dedicated for polishing and Illl take your advice and set this one up for grinding.

 

[Itinerant]

I just picked this up yesterday. I would like to set it up exclusively as a buffer/polisher, I already have a couple of smaller 6in. grinders. What is the general consensus for doing this? Good idea? Thanks

[/URL][/IMG]

dng: i would keep the 1/2 hp commercial one you just bought for your stone and wire wheel and turn another one of your blocks into a buffer. reason being you have the nice water tray and stout tool rests on that one that you won't need for a buffer. take a look back a few pages and see what JCM did to extend his arbors or buy a right and left handed thread extension to extend yours.

DISCLAIMER: DNG if you decide to turn that into a buffer I'd like to buy the tool rests. Hell, I'd buy the whole base if you'd part with it.

Drives made a good point as you have considered but let me add my own point of view.

I have owned several of the 6" 1/2 HP blocks and I'm running 2 of the 7" 1/2 HP commercial rated blocks right now and there is no comparison between them. I also have a 1 HP block so I can compare the difference between that and the 1/2's. I would never have considered converting one of the non-commercial rated 1/2's to a buffer, they were too easy to bog down when I was running a wire wheel.

 

[McBrownie]

I have owned several of the 6" 1/2 HP blocks and I'm running 2 of the 7" 1/2 HP commercial rated blocks right now and there is no comparison between them. I also have a 1 HP block so I can compare the difference between that and the 1/2's. I would never have considered converting one of the non-commercial rated 1/2's to a buffer, they were too easy to bog down when I was running a wire wheel.

I would agree with the difference between the Split-Phase and the Commercials. The commercial cap-starts are, in my opinion, more enjoyable to use.

 

[McBrownie]

I had recently replaced the bearings on my 3/4 block, and I didn't notice the .667 diameter inboard of the retaining rings, but I just checked my machine and it is indeed like yours---bummer.

Your idea to still use the collars will require that you bore them to .667" which I think is an odd drill size. I don't know how you could make it work without a lathe.

I also have found that the newer MT belt adapters have a simpler drive wheel than my old version. My wheel has a large hub that mounts with a tapered collet, which locks the hub and runs very true to the shaft. Yours AFAIK is just a flat flange that mounts like a grinding wheel, which explains how you can open the ID to whatever you want. Adding a collar as a mounting flange would likely prove worthwhile.

BTW, I think I have a 5/8 collar that I could bore to .667" and mail to you if you like. I cringe when I think of you using a Dremel to modify a collar. Send me a PM with your address and confirm the dimension. Please note that I am NOT a machinist, but I should be able to get close.

That is interesting about the aluminum wheels and you are correct that mine mounts just like a grinding wheel.

I am also sending you a PM and thanks for the offer!

 

[torqueman2002]

I interrupt for a commercial break (CL ad, really).

Craftsman pre-Block round-top Grinder m-115.19500.

I called the seller and he sent me a picture of the grinder tag, below.

This is within my 'free' pick-up zone. My daughter lives in the next town over.

http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/4789370930.html

I return now to the regular, and very interesting, program.

 

[drivesitfar]

TM: we always like your commercial breaks. just wanted to say again thanks for helping all of us with our blocks and now for shipping one to almost everybody that needs one.

it is truly amazing how big and nice looking a Craftsman 1/4 HP block grinder looks. so a package deal with a 40 year old Craftsman Drill Press for $100?

EX & McB: i'm watching closely to that belt attachment to a block and enjoying the read and comments as well as the pictures. thanks

ALL: Is there any member or non member that has added a belt grinder attachment to a block or bench grinder? if you are a non member and have done one and it's working great can you join Garage journal's forum and post some pictures and comments on this thread?

Also in case some of you hasn't seen it yet JCM started a thread on buffing wheels and compounds and it's gaining links and information and i want to thank him again for starting it. also anybody seeing that thread with good input or questions please post your comments.

PS now that JCM has started the thread i'm betting TM will need to add his name for more blocks to the block grinder list because he'll need a few more spinning wheels.

 

[Pupuhd]

TM: Also in case some of you hasn't seen it yet JCM started a thread on buffing wheels and compounds and it's gaining links and information and i want to thank him again for starting it. also anybody seeing that thread with good input or questions please post your comments.

Drive,
Can you post here the link to the above thread? Thanks

 

[drivesitfar]

Pup and ALL: here's JCM's buffing wheel and compounds thread. it's getting some good stuff. also if any of you has any pictures of before and after using your buffer please post over there like a couple members have already. always like seeing good old steel shined to a mirror's finish.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=271224&highlight=buffing

 

[McBrownie]

EX & McB: i'm watching closely to that belt attachment to a block and enjoying the read and comments as well as the pictures. thanks

Drives, a quick update. Ex (Matt) stepped up and is making the spacer as well as machining the shaft collar. I should receive it this weekend. So, The Reverend Scott is officially off the hook. I'll post an update when I get it all together.

By the way, it turns out I bought my first block from Ex and didn't even know it. Small world!

 

[drivesitfar]

McB: yes it's a small world. i sold a vise to BMXdad a few weeks ago for his new garage he just built that we were posting back and forth on his thread all summer. come to find out we had met a couple years ago when he needed a couple things i had to sell for his home gym. Craigslist and Garage Journal are great for meeting some great people.

ALL: Just an FYI. most of us know that you shouldn't click on any links sent from an email even if it looks like it's from a friend or somebody you know. yes?? why you say? it's because the jerks are hacking into our emails all the time and sending emails which look like it originated from a friend so they get you to click on their link which has a tracking bug or some type of virus in the link. also change your passwords often and at least every couple months on your email accounts.

 

[exmaxima1]

Drives, a quick update. Ex (Matt) stepped up and is making the spacer as well as machining the shaft collar. I should receive it this weekend. So, The Reverend Scott is officially off the hook.

Not so fast---it was mailed last night via Priority Mail and the receipt says 12/8 delivery. Maybe it will show up earlier...

 

[torqueman2002]

TM has probably sniffed these out already, but a couple blocks just popped up on detroit cl today;

http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/4789370930.html
http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/4789211415.html

And this has been out for 9 days and will likely be there for a while.
http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tld/4777397150.html

Mr. Magoo;
Thank you.

The 1st and last one I have already seen. I agree, the last one at $150 is too much and not complete.

The 2nd one, got past me!?!

But thanks to your kind alert, the CM floor 150 DP and the CM 1/2 HP flat-top Block with CM stand are in the truck and safely home!

u118224 gets 1st refusal on the 1/2 HP Block (I am waiting to hear back from him as I write); otherwise, anyone interested please PM me.

Thanks again, FrankLee. I owe you one!

 

[McBrownie]

Not so fast---it was mailed last night via Priority Mail and the receipt says 12/8 delivery. Maybe it will show up earlier...

Not a problem. The grinder has waited 50 years for the multitool attachment. A few more days won't hurt.

 

[McBrownie]

Since we are posting CL links, here is what I found for Ohio which apparently is having a 1/3hp Sales Bonanza:

Too much for a 1/3hp in my opinion, but it is clean and complete.
http://cleveland.craigslist.org/tls/4784405929.html

An oldie on a craftsman stand:
http://youngstown.craigslist.org/tls/4694052854.html

Another pricey 1/3hp, but on a cool old craftsman stand:
http://columbus.craigslist.org/tls/4780533908.html

A really pricey 1/3hp in pieces:
http://columbus.craigslist.org/tls/4747288941.html

A little more reasonable 1/3hp:
http://dayton.craigslist.org/bar/4743168461.html

EDIT: Looks like it could be a Multi-State 1/3hp Bonanza
This is another one on an old original stand:
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/4751737399.html

Even a Tennessee 1/3hp:
http://nashville.craigslist.org/tls/4748054019.html

 

[logical]

I interrupt for a commercial break (CL ad, really).

Craftsman pre-Block round-top Grinder m-115.19500.

I called the seller and he sent me a picture of the grinder tag, below.

This is within my 'free' pick-up zone. My daughter lives in the next town over.

http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/4789370930.html

I return now to the regular, and very interesting, program.

I saw that ad late last night and figured it would be gone by morning but I called and he still had it late this morning. I snuck (sneaked?) over to the guys storage unit between meetings this afternoon, it was only about 10 minutes from my office. The drill press is still in my pickup, but here's a preview of the grinder and a little bonus that came with the deal. Missing one tool rest but looks like it was never used commercially, runs like new. I assume they didn't come with side covers?

The drill press had a few modifications like a switched outlet hanging off the motor mount that must have been for a light or something, but nothing that can't be undone as far as I can tell. I really didn't have time to look very long and my on-board 110 plug in my truck wouldn't do any more than make it hum for a second and try to move but that's all it would do with the grinder and it runs fine plugged in at home.

 

[nine4gmc]

logical, YOU ****!!! Like you bought a grinder and vise and got the DP for FREE!!! Excellent score!!!

That particular model did not have side cover provisions, I have the same grinder out in my shop.

 

[logical]

logical, YOU ****!!! Like you bought a grinder and vise and got the DP for FREE!!! Excellent score!!!

That particular model did not have side cover provisions, I have the same grinder out in my shop.

Thanks, I planned to do a basic cosmetic restore on both but as well as it cleaned up I'm tempted to just tear it down, do a good cleaning and leave it in original condition.... patina and all.

Hopefully when I get the drill unloaded after work tomorrow and into the light it will look just as good. BTW, I was going through your thread a few days ago and your shop is just flat out awesome.

 

[nine4gmc]

Thanks Logical, I think that DP will clean up nicely, maybe some fresh bearings and put it to work!

 

[torqueman2002]

I saw that ad late last night and figured it would be gone by morning but I called and he still had it late this morning. ... it runs fine plugged in at home.

Thanks Logical, I think that DP will clean up nicely, maybe some fresh bearings and put it to work!

Nicely done!

Let me know if you need a pedestal stand for the grinder.

logical - Cool, glad you snuck/sneaked/sucked over there. Good to see a fellow member bring the pre-Block home.

If you decide to pull it apart for a restore/refresh I have threads showing details of 2 I did. You can find them in the link in my Sig. Line, page 2, "1/4 H.P. m-115.19500 restore (Pre-block)" and "1/3 H.P. m-115.7566 (Pre-block)". Just a heads up, I have seen where the RH bearing stayed on the shaft and damaged the start-up switch.

nine4gmc - I agree.

FrankLee - If logical is not interested, screwtape is looking for a CM stand.

Funny, these Blocks seem to run in packs around here, nothing for a long time and then a swarm.

But, yesterday is a new record!

Two CL scores in the area, BOTH with Blocks/pre-Block and CM 150 Drill Presses.

Oh yea, mine are still in the truck, too!

Pictures later today.

 

[torqueman2002]

When CM rated the Blocks and pre-Blocks 'Industrial', they meant it.

Take a look at this survivor, it's been on the job longer than I have. I retired last April.
http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/tls/4789011199.html

Someone please step up, I can't save them all! (I am trying though.)

Just think, for $600 you get to give a good home to an old soldier. Plus, you get a Standing Band Saw for free.

 

[drivesitfar]

TM: I've been wanting to paint a few of my big vises, tool boxes and tools that John Deere green and yellow and hadn't thought of doing so with one of my blocks. Dang that has a decent look to it.

can you please paint one of your new finds those colors on your next restoration so i can see what a professional job would look like?

when you said you had a DP and block in your truck and then Logical said he had bought the one in the ad you posted i thought what's going on here. glad to hear you guys are saving all the old tools Michigan is selling which seems like a ton this last year. looking forward to pictures of your new family members.

Logical: yes more pictures of your block and if you have room in your posts for a couple of your new DP i'm sure we wouldn't mind you posting them too. nice purchase.

 

[cbacres]

I went and did it again, bought anothe block at a estate sale, just because.im waiting on my appointment, so I'll post up later

 

[drivesitfar]

CB: welcome back. you can always spiff some up or sell them as is like Tourqueman has been doing once you move and get all the wheels you want. are you still moving to Kentucky or staying in the sunshine of Florida for a while longer. not sure how somebody buys a block while waiting for an appointment, but if anybody can do it i suppose you could.

 

[Pupuhd]

Since we are posting CL links, here is what I found for Ohio which apparently is having a 1/3hp Sales Bonanza:

Not a 1/3hp, however like I mentioned before of the high-end prices in my area. This is in central NJ, asking $125. Seller has no specs listed. Missing wheel guards, Light shade cover & tool rests. Also looks to be heavily used due to the safety sign on it, possibly school.

 

[cbacres]

CB: welcome back. you can always spiff some up or sell them as is like Tourqueman has been doing once you move and get all the wheels you want. are you still moving to Kentucky or staying in the sunshine of Florida for a while longer. not sure how somebody buys a block while waiting for an appointment, but if anybody can do it i suppose you could.

Thanks Drives,
I been around, just haven't posted on this thread. I found the block at a estate on the way, just ran out of time before going inside.
It's complete with the quench tray, needs wheels.
Still going to move, just will be awhile. I hope to start on my block grinder table soon.
My coworker suggested that I may need to go to GA ( grinders anonymous) to deal with my "problem". Oh, the non believers.
Picked up a few other nice stuff, I'll post up on the garage sale thread when I get home.