let's see your craftsman block grinders

McBrownie · Jan 5, 2015

u118224 said:
It looks like a sleeve to me, it's almost the same diameter as the inner race. Go ahead and cut off the inner race with a dremel and see what the other side of the "sleeve" looks like.

U, Drives and Ex,
Would you be worried about heat damaging the armature/rotor?

u118224 · Jan 5, 2015

McBrownie said:
U, Drives and Ex,
Would you be worried about heat damaging the armature/rotor?

In a word, yes. I'd use a heat sink of some sort between the fan blade and armature. At least a wet cloth/rag.

gregthor · Jan 5, 2015

http://robrobinette.com/images/S2000/WheelBearing/BearingPuller.jpg

Is there any reason a bearing separator like this would'nt work?

Probably can rent one or borrow from autozone.

Once installed, if heat is necessary, it acts as a shield to keep heat away from other parts.

torqueman2002 · Jan 6, 2015

gregthor said:
http://robrobinette.com/images/S2000/WheelBearing/BearingPuller.jpg

Is there any reason a bearing separator like this would'nt work?

Probably can rent one or borrow from autozone.

Once installed, if heat is necessary, it acts as a shield to keep heat away from other parts.

I use an OTC & Snap-On puller set up like that for Block grinder bearings.

It should work from what I can see, my caution would be to not heat the bushing to the point the bearing separator is damaged. Also, if you can keep the arbor/shaft cooler than the bushing with wet rags on both sides of the bushing, that should help removal. The idea being to keep the shaft cooler (smaller/contracted) relative to the bushing (hotter, larger/expanded).

Best of luck.

BTW - what is that out of?

drivesitfar · Jan 6, 2015

DJ, U, EX, TM, McB, and Gregthor,

the grinder with the bearing sleeve issue we've been talking about is this Baldor so not exactly a throw away grinder as you can see from the link.

http://www.baldor.com/products/deta...Buffers&family=Grinders|vw_GrindBuff_Grinders

thanks for all the help and suggestions for the fix and the owner has seen them and he'll let me know if he has any success or more questions.

dodgejunkie · Jan 6, 2015

drivesitfar said:
DJ, U, EX and McB: so the plan as best we can figure is to heat up the sleeve and pull it off then either pull off the busted bearing ring or cut it off with a dremel or another similar tool. do we agree on that as the best fix? then on the other side to heat up the sleeve and just pull off the old bearing. yes??

thanks guys and that makes sense to me.

I've found it easier to pull them both at the same time. It won't take as much heat as you'd think to get the sleeve, and inner race to move. I would not worry about the heat being an issue either. The normal operating temp of that armature is likely far in excess of what you'll impart to it.

Also, I have better success taking the outer race off(cutting it off) first. It generally pulls the damn thing apart, and you're right back at the inner race anyway.

Outlawmws · Jan 6, 2015

If it is really stuck, you can take it down to the inner race as mentioned above, then support the race on something solid (RR track "anvil" for instance) and smack the race with a cold chisel (two man job to hold it, unless you fixture it...). it's hardened and with a couple of whacks will usually fracture and then it come off easy.

We used to take axle bearings off this way. faster and easier than pressing...

ichabod · Jan 6, 2015

yes a 3/4 horse, it was my fathers

McBrownie · Jan 6, 2015

ichabod said:
yes a 3/4 horse, it was my fathers

Nice machine! :thumbup:

Those machines were not cheap when they were new. Was your father the original owner?

pendragon1998 · Jan 6, 2015

Thanks for the label pics, y'all.

kirk69nova · Jan 6, 2015

Here is a 1/3 HP north of Pittsburgh.
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/4829332655.html

ichabod · Jan 6, 2015

father bought it new, I remember the one it replaced. it look just like the one Bronson posted in the vintage grinder thread.

McBrownie · Jan 6, 2015

kirk69nova said:
Here is a 1/3 HP north of Pittsburgh.
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/4829332655.html

That's a brake model! Somebody grab it!

McBrownie · Jan 6, 2015

ichabod said:
father bought it new, I remember the one it replaced. it look just like the one Bronson posted in the vintage grinder thread.

Quite the upgrade!

torqueman2002 · Jan 7, 2015

McBrownie said:
That's a brake model! Somebody grab it!

Aren't you looking for one?

Go get it!

Kevski · Jan 7, 2015

Thanks to all for the advice on this... got the bearings changed out, with some difficulty. Info in this post:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4528613&postcount=546

drivesitfar said:
DJ, U, EX and McB: so the plan as best we can figure is to heat up the sleeve and pull it off then either pull off the busted bearing ring or cut it off with a dremel or another similar tool. do we agree on that as the best fix? then on the other side to heat up the sleeve and just pull off the old bearing. yes??

thanks guys and that makes sense to me.

drivesitfar · Jan 7, 2015

Kev: happy to hear your repair took a positive turn and i put more remarks on the vintage grinder thread you posted the link for. :thumbup:

DJ, U, EX, TM, McB, Outlaw and Gregthor: nice assists :thumbup:

McBrownie · Jan 7, 2015

torqueman2002 said:
Aren't you looking for one?

Go get it!

I'm not really in the market for one right now. :sad:

I'm afraid if I added a brake to the BlockMeister, it would explode if I used it.

twertsy · Jan 7, 2015

Pretty sure this is one. Never even had a clue that it was cool. I just grabbed it off my Dad's bench when they moved out. I'm sure it's somewhere in the 3,000 + pages of this thread, but where does one go to get the eye shields and shade for this? Also, were I to go about restoring it, where would I get the sticker on the front? And lastly, I noticed that when I work it a little harder than it probably should be worked, it doesn't like to shut off. It does, but stays at full power for about 3-5 seconds before winding down. Under normal/light workload it powers down immediately.

torqueman2002 · Jan 7, 2015

twertsy said:
Pretty sure this is one. Never even had a clue that it was cool. I just grabbed it off my Dad's bench when they moved out. I'm sure it's somewhere in the 3,000 + pages of this thread, but where does one go to get the eye shields and shade for this? Also, were I to go about restoring it, where would I get the sticker on the front? And lastly, I noticed that when I work it a little harder than it probably should be worked, it doesn't like to shut off. It does, but stays at full power for about 3-5 seconds before winding down. Under normal/light workload it powers down immediately.

You can find some of the answers in the thread below in my sig. line.

".... stays at full power for about 3-5 seconds before winding down. Under normal/light workload it powers down immediately." Hmmm, no idea, new 1 on me.

Someone will pipe-in with an idea.

torqueman2002 · Jan 7, 2015

Kevski said:
Thanks to all for the advice on this... got the bearings changed out, with some difficulty. Info in this post:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4528613&postcount=546

Mama Mia! She wasa' on there tight! :shocking:

Good job. Thanks for the pictures.

Now I (we) just have to see the project when it's done. :drool:

torqueman2002 · Jan 7, 2015

McBrownie said:
I'm not really in the market for one right now. I'm afraid if I added a brake to the BlockMeister, it would explode if I used it.

OK, OK. If it's still there when I head back to MI, I'll collect it up and save it for you (maybe, :evil:

) for when you come to your senses.

torqueman2002 · Jan 7, 2015

drivesitfar said:
DJ, U, EX, TM, McB, and Gregthor,

the grinder with the bearing sleeve issue we've been talking about is this Baldor so not exactly a throw away grinder as you can see from the link.

http://www.baldor.com/products/deta...Buffers&family=Grinders|vw_GrindBuff_Grinders

thanks for all the help and suggestions for the fix and the owner has seen them and he'll let me know if he has any success or more questions.

Thanks for the update.

It's amazing the variety of grinder configuration out there.

exmaxima1 · Jan 7, 2015

torqueman2002 said:
You can find some of the answers in the thread below in my sig. line.

".... stays at full power for about 3-5 seconds before winding down. Under normal/light workload it powers down immediately." Hmmm, no idea, new 1 on me.

Someone will pipe-in with an idea.

I'd guess the power switch is on its last leg. If the contacts are worn, they will heat up under load (high current) and possibly warp/deform the mechanism and delay the switching.

Does the switch get hot under load?

McBrownie · Jan 7, 2015

exmaxima1 said:
I'd guess the power switch is on its last leg. If the contacts are worn, they will heat up under load (high current) and possibly warp/deform the mechanism and delay the switching.

Does the switch get hot under load?

Dirt/grime can do the same thing. An easy test would be to replace the switch with a new SPST toggle switch that you can pickup at Lowe's for $5. It's doesn't have to be the same style for the test. You could even use an old light switch if you wanted to. Or, just remove the switch altogether, tape the wires together, plug it into a switched outlet, and see if works the same way when you turn the power on and off. Sorry for the rambling, but I'm thinking as I type.

kirk69nova · Jan 7, 2015

McBrownie said:
That's a brake model! Somebody grab it!

You got my interest peaked. What is a brake model and what is the benefit? Maybe I'll just go get my second one!

jakemac · Jan 8, 2015

kirk69nova said:
You got my interest peaked. What is a brake model and what is the benefit? Maybe I'll just go get my second one!

Go grab it. After you study it, you can give us the answer. :evil:

vertguy · Jan 8, 2015

Has anyone found a source for adding a flexible lamp to one of these grinders? My 6 inch has the knockout, so adding one seems to be easy. I found some sources for the flexible goosenecks, but not for the lamp end. Any ideas??

nine4gmc · Jan 8, 2015

Just google gooseneck lamp, there are some ready made with standard bulb sockets all the way up to led style. I used a standard commercial sewing table lamp on my DP like this one:
http://www.wawak.com/products/product.cfm/pid/10948?gclid=CPH1it64hcMCFYM-aQodPWkAHQ

jakemac · Jan 8, 2015

vertguy said:
Has anyone found a source for adding a flexible lamp to one of these grinders?

McBrownie found a vintage one. The post about it is here :
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4467323#post4467323

vertguy · Jan 8, 2015

That's what I am going to want long term as the sewing machine light just won't looks right. I may grab one for now and keep an eye out for the "right" one.

pendragon1998 · Jan 8, 2015

Do I recall correctly that someone had located an original replacement shade from Sears? I have a gooseneck and I already picked up a solid brass lamp socket, but I need the clamp on metal shade and plastic shade.

Really, I would rather have a right angle style shade like this:

But I'd settle for the more recent style like this, if it was cheaper:

I'm just trying to do it on the cheap - have way too much into my restoration at this point - lol.

McBrownie · Jan 8, 2015

vertguy said:
Has anyone found a source for adding a flexible lamp to one of these grinders? My 6 inch has the knockout, so adding one seems to be easy. I found some sources for the flexible goosenecks, but not for the lamp end. Any ideas??

What vintage? Flat top or round top?

vertguy · Jan 8, 2015

Here's my grinder (397.19580).

McBrownie · Jan 8, 2015

pendragon1998 said:
Do I recall correctly that someone had located an original replacement shade from Sears? I have a gooseneck and I already picked up a solid brass lamp socket, but I need the clamp on metal shade and plastic shade.

I'm just trying to do it on the cheap - have way too much into my restoration at this point - lol.

Vimco made the original right angle ones on the 1960's model, best I can tell. Mine ran $40, but was worth it to me because I wanted an original one. However, if you're not worried about originality, I also found these sewing machine lamps that are all over eBay for various prices while I was looking. Painted up, they should look and work nice as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-pcs-FLEXI...420&rk=2&rkt=6&mehot=pp&sd=161250386656&rt=nc

McBrownie · Jan 8, 2015

vertguy said:
Here's my grinder (397.19580).

Here is the correct style of your grinder. (This picture was reproduced without the express written consent of Bubinga. Thanks Bubinga!)

Finding one like that might be challenging. The problem with looking for anything older gets you into the "vintage industrial" market and the prices get right up there in a hurry. :eyecrazy:

Are you looking to stay original or just get something that works?

vertguy · Jan 8, 2015

McBrownie said:
Here is the correct style of your grinder. (This picture was reproduced without the express written consent of Bubinga. Thanks Bubinga!)

Finding one like that might be challenging. The problem with looking for anything older gets you into the "vintage industrial" market and the prices get right up there in a hurry. Are you looking to stay original or just get something that works?

Thanks for the photo. I am ****, so trying to find the right one would be my preference. For now, I can just pick up one of those sewing machine lights and repaint it. And just keep an eye out for an original.

While we are on the "staying original" topic, has anyone successfully color matched the silver paint on the shield frames? I assume that is same color as center area of the grinder.

McBrownie · Jan 8, 2015

nine4gmc said:
Just google gooseneck lamp, there are some ready made with standard bulb sockets all the way up to led style. I used a standard commercial sewing table lamp on my DP like this one:
http://www.wawak.com/products/product.cfm/pid/10948?gclid=CPH1it64hcMCFYM-aQodPWkAHQ

Nines, great minds think alike on the sewing machine lamps. :beer:

I haven't bought one these yet. How are they?

McBrownie · Jan 8, 2015

vertguy said:
Thanks for the photo. I am ****, so trying to find the right one would be my preference. For now, I can just pick up one of those sewing machine lights and repaint it. And just keep an eye out for an original.

While we are on the "staying original" topic, has anyone successfully color matched the silver paint on the shield frames? I assume that is same color as center area of the grinder.

Well, based on your comment above, I think your best bet on the paint is to get something close and paint both eye shields and the center tin.

And then you'll probably want to repaint the motor housings. And then the wheel guards. I speak from experience. :lol:

vertguy · Jan 8, 2015

Good point. The grinder itself is too good of shape to touch, so I will need to get creative. While we have this going... my other "want" is a vintage/same era stand. I assume it will be like the lamp in trying to find along with not being cheap.

let's see your craftsman block grinders

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