let's see your craftsman block grinders

[drivesitfar]

Crab: you mentioned several of the places where you might find a Craftsman block grinder. Another method we are starting to do is members with several are starting to sell a few of theirs to other members if they might have an extra one. you can get on the wish list and you might avoid shipping if you put your location in your profile if a member is within driving distance.

just make a post asking to get on the list and which grinders you might like to own and you might get lucky. I've been looking for a 1HP or even a 3/4 HP one for over a year now and Tourqueman (TM) just picked up a 1HP POS that will probably be as nice as any new grinder when he finishes restoring it and take a look at his thread.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=279094

these grinders are awesome and with a little care they might last 100 years.

DK: you are very welcome and happy to help

 

[harleybuilder]

Here's the latest update to the Want/Wish List.

Please let me know if there are corrections, updates to be made.[emoji106]

I'm looking for a 1/3 or 1/2hp, very southern part of IL and willing to pay shipping. Thanks.

 

[Faisal]

hi

i have Craftsman Bench Grinder model N#397.19581 and i going to replace the power cord because its damaged. original cable is not available in sears web site and i have to see other replacement .

what is the best replacement power cord made in USA in the market can fit in my grinder ?

thanks

 

[jakemac]

Any grounded cord will work. You just need to decide how long you want it to be. Given your location, I'd suggest either finding a twist-loc cord from a Milwaukee Sawsall and cut the twist plug off, or look in your area for a damaged extension chord that has a good end that you can use. Make sure it's at least a 14/3 cord. 16/3 or 18/3 would be too thin. You will need to crimp new connectors on the ends of the wires.

 

[exmaxima1]

hi

i have Craftsman Bench Grinder model N#397.19581 and i going to replace the power cord because its damaged. original cable is not available in sears web site and i have to see other replacement .

what is the best replacement power cord made in USA in the market can fit in my grinder ?

thanks

It's just a power cord on a stationary tool, so it really doesn't need to be all that fancy. That grinder only draws a few amps, so even 18 gauge wire will handle it. I'd use a computer cord. Cut the female end off, crimp on a pair of 1/4" fastens on the black & white wires, and a small ring terminal for the green wire. Install. Done.

 

[exmaxima1]

Make sure it's at least a 14/3 cord. 16/3 or 18/3 would be too thin. You will need to crimp new connectors on the ends of the wires.

The original cord on that grinder is fairly thin. A heavy 14/3 cord will require a new grommet and possibly a bigger mounting hole. Why do you feel you need 14 gauge wire for a 4.5 amp load?

 

[jakemac]

Start up amps and heavy load while bearing down during grinding (as some are want to do).
Better too high than too low. The heavier wire will carry the load better and won't heat up as much under load. Many newer cables have thinner insulation. I haven't had to replace grommets going up to heavier wire yet.

 

[CNGsaves]

^ ^ Faisal has pristine collectible stuff. He's not looking for any shortcuts. Perfect OEM cord from Sears would be his desired cord if available.

BTW . . . that's awesome condition grinder you've got Faisal. Hope you find a suitable cord for that awesome Crowntop C-man.

 

[alpinewhite]

It's just a power cord on a stationary tool, so it really doesn't need to be all that fancy. That grinder only draws a few amps, so even 18 gauge wire will handle it. I'd use a computer cord. Cut the female end off, crimp on a pair of 1/4" fastens on the black & white wires, and a small ring terminal for the green wire. Install. Done.

A real die-hard toolman would solder and use heat-shrink tubing instead of crimp-on connectors. Please do it right and don't use crimp-on connectors.

 

[torqueman2002]

I'm looking for a 1/3 or 1/2hp, very southern part of IL and willing to pay shipping. Thanks.

I am glad to add members in good standing to the 'Want-Wish List'.

Please find your way to post #3761; once there send me a PM with all the suitable information. (http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4516788&postcount=3761)

Torqueman

 

[harleybuilder]

I am glad to add members in good standing to the 'Want-Wish List'.

Please find your way to post #3761; once there send me a PM with all the suitable information. (http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4516788&postcount=3761)

Torqueman
[emoji106]

PM sent with the needed information.
Thanks.

 

[alpinewhite]

Before I found GJ, I had one vise and one bench grinder. Now, it's getting out-of-hand. Please help me.

 

[exmaxima1]

A real die-hard toolman would solder and use heat-shrink tubing instead of crimp-on connectors. Please do it right and don't use crimp-on connectors.

I agree that soldering is ideal, but the original has crimped connectors so if you want to keep it looking as such you stay with crimps. Plus many people are better at crimping than soldering---if you overheat that relay it will cost you!

 

[drivesitfar]

Faisal: since you want original and vintage look how about this for a new cord. buy a old Craftsman tool from the same vintage like a drill or old saw and take the cord from that to put on your nice looking block. yes??

if you don't have access to old tools while you are out of the country i bet one of us can ship you and old cord off one of ours. don't you have a US shipping address too?

 

[nine4gmc]

Before I found GJ, I had one vise and one bench grinder. Now, it's getting out-of-hand. Please help me.

Well, the first question is how many do you have now? If the number of each is below 10, you need help finding more, if you have more than 10 each, you just need help deciding which to keep and which to sell so then we can help you find more.

 

[Faisal]

Faisal: since you want original and vintage look how about this for a new cord. buy a old Craftsman tool from the same vintage like a drill or old saw and take the cord from that to put on your nice looking block. yes??

if you don't have access to old tools while you are out of the country i bet one of us can ship you and old cord off one of ours. don't you have a US shipping address too?

you are reading my mind,i found in ebay vintage craftsman power tools and they are pretty cheap but the problem i can't guarantee that cord does not have any issue ,and regarding US address yes i have and if any body have good craftsman power cord i am ready to buy

 

[bmxdad]

A real die-hard toolman would solder and use heat-shrink tubing instead of crimp-on connectors. Please do it right and don't use crimp-on connectors.

Nothing wrong with crimped connectors, if the right tool and connector is used. OEM do it all the time.

 

[exmaxima1]

Faisal: since you want original and vintage look how about this for a new cord. buy a old Craftsman tool from the same vintage like a drill or old saw and take the cord from that to put on your nice looking block. yes??

I just changed the cord on my 1/3 hp block a few weeks ago when I bought it----it was hard as a rock. The grinder was fine, but that old cord was dried out and I didn't want to even have that in my house. Plus many of those vintage tools did not have 3-pin cords, so if you are installing a new cord you should update that at the same time.

I can't believe there is such a fuss about a ****** cord....

 

[nine4gmc]

hi

i have Craftsman Bench Grinder model N#397.19581 and i going to replace the power cord because its damaged. original cable is not available in sears web site and i have to see other replacement .

what is the best replacement power cord made in USA in the market can fit in my grinder ?

thanks

I know you mentioned made in USA and IDK where this one is made but it is a perfectly good power cord and IMO, better than a "vintage" one that may or may not be dry rotted or worse. It's just a power cord and would be a good replacement.

Link: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-9-ft-14-3-Power-Tool-Replacement-Cord-AW62632/100661452

 

[exmaxima1]

It's just a power cord and would be a good replacement.

Link: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-9-ft-14-3-Power-Tool-Replacement-Cord-AW62632/100661452

Or buy it for far less at Menards:

http://www.menards.com/main/electri...utdoor-power-supply-cord/p-1462707-c-6410.htm

 

[Faisal]

Any grounded cord will work. You just need to decide how long you want it to be. Given your location, I'd suggest either finding a twist-loc cord from a Milwaukee Sawsall and cut the twist plug off, or look in your area for a damaged extension chord that has a good end that you can use. Make sure it's at least a 14/3 cord. 16/3 or 18/3 would be too thin. You will need to crimp new connectors on the ends of the wires.

It's just a power cord on a stationary tool, so it really doesn't need to be all that fancy. That grinder only draws a few amps, so even 18 gauge wire will handle it. I'd use a computer cord. Cut the female end off, crimp on a pair of 1/4" fastens on the black & white wires, and a small ring terminal for the green wire. Install. Done.

^ ^ Faisal has pristine collectible stuff. He's not looking for any shortcuts. Perfect OEM cord from Sears would be his desired cord if available.

BTW . . . that's awesome condition grinder you've got Faisal. Hope you find a suitable cord for that awesome Crowntop C-man.

A real die-hard toolman would solder and use heat-shrink tubing instead of crimp-on connectors. Please do it right and don't use crimp-on connectors.

I know you mentioned made in USA and IDK where this one is made but it is a perfectly good power cord and IMO, better than a "vintage" one that may or may not be dry rotted or worse. It's just a power cord and would be a good replacement.

Link: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-9-ft-14-3-Power-Tool-Replacement-Cord-AW62632/100661452

yes you are right its just power tools ,but as accollectore the feeling is different when you use replace the original part with different type

i think you agree with me

and regarding the husky cable i have seen it before also i found another one made in usa in amazon

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SQH4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[exmaxima1]

yes you are right its just power tools ,but as accollectore the feeling is different when you use replace the original part with different type

i think you agree with me

and regarding the husky cable i have seen it before also i found another one made in usa in amazon

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SQH4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

If you want to be "acollectore" ditch that 1/3 hp split phase and man up to a 1/2 hp cap start. IMHO the best of the lot so far. Plenty of power and nearly as smooth as a Delta Triple Duty, which is saying a lot!

 

[drivesitfar]

Ex: give Faisal time and he'll probably have a few more than any of us. give him a little credit for wanting his block to look as good as it can. i bet he doesn't see a lot of Craftsman block grinders in his neck of the woods currently.

Nines: is there a rule i missed that we have to keep vises and block grinders under 10? i think i missed that memo.

 

[bluebolt]

I thought it would have been an early version crown top but the date puts it later in the logo years. The model numbers go down? I haven't noticed but I don't pay a lot of attention. I'm currently at 4 round tops and 1 flat top but it will probably get parted out soon. One ear on the casting near the bolt holes is cracked but its my main user right now and works great.



What a combo!!

They are still round tops in the 1973 catalog which is the latest I could find.

Edit the earliest block grinder manual I found on OWWM is 10/75. A 1/2 hp with the rectangular late 70's logo and a 1/4 hp with a Crown logo. I need to pick up some more catalogs!

 

[jakemac]

Before I found GJ, I had one vise and one bench grinder. Now, it's getting out-of-hand. Please help me.

Are you looking for help to reduce your inventory, or help increasing it ?

 

[McBrownie]

My 2 cents on the cord is that I prefer a rubberized cord like what comes on Milwaukee power tools. I really don't like the chemical resistant PVC ones that get hard as a rock in cold weather. The rubberized ones stay flexible in the cold.

Something like this is what I look for even though it is probably overkill.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Skil-HD77-B...283?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item418ee8792b

 

[jakemac]

....................... and regarding the husky cable i have seen it before also i found another one made in usa in amazon

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SQH4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

It's hard to tell, but the Husky cord looks like it has a plastic sheath covering the insulation. I'd go with the one you found on Amazon. That one says that the sheath is SJEO, which is closer to the original rubber sheath.

 

[torqueman2002]

"I'll eMail the seller, keep your fingers crossed and thanks."

I received a call from the seller.

We have reached an agreement.

Thanks!

I will post pictures when I get it.

UPDATE
Look what the FedEx man left.

Well, we think it's a big deal.

This one's clean enough to be un-boxed in the dinette.

What's that? Another delivery!

YouTube video. Still working on that imbedding.

Thanks for looking.

 

[harleybuilder]

UPDATE
Look what the FedEx man left.

Well, we think it's a big deal.

This one's clean enough to be un-boxed in the dinette.

What's that? Another delivery!

YouTube video. Still working on that imbedding.

Thanks for looking.
[emoji106]

[emoji106] [emoji106] [emoji106] [emoji106]

 

[firemanast]

That is a very sweet grinder Torgueman !

 

[torqueman2002]

My 2 cents on the cord is that I prefer a rubberized cord like what comes on Milwaukee power tools. I really don't like the chemical resistant PVC ones that get hard as a rock in cold weather. The rubberized ones stay flexible in the cold.

Something like this is what I look for even though it is probably overkill.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Skil-HD77-B...283?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item418ee8792b

Good suggestion. I almost bought 2, but I didn't want to buy them all up. So, I checked my go2, Amazon Prime.
2Pack - $24.99 & FREE Shipping on orders over $35. (Free with Prime and no minimum) They are on my wish list.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E449HPW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[pendragon1998]

A real die-hard toolman would solder and use heat-shrink tubing instead of crimp-on connectors. Please do it right and don't use crimp-on connectors.

This article leads me to believe there is no reason to avoid crimp connections.

More good articles on aeroelectric.

 

[alpinewhite]

This article leads me to believe there is no reason to avoid crimp connections.

More good articles on aeroelectric.

Thanks. My suggestion was to dissuade people from using **** crimp connectors. These crimp terminal connectors are ok if soldered and heat-shrink tubed.

 

[Outlawmws]

Alpine did you actually read the article?

This horse had been beat to death hundreds, if not thousands of times.

Bottom line, there is NOTHING wrong with a crimp connector properly done. There are hundreds if not thousands in every aircraft flying.

We went to the moon on crimped connectors.

We go into space both manned and unmanned all the time on crimped connectors.

I don't know of a car made today that does not use crimped connectors.

They withstand constant vibration in planes, trains, and automobiles, and massive g force shocks on launch platforms and during the separations of stages when multi-stage rockets lift off and put a payload into space.

The military uses crimped connectors in vehicles, aircraft, ships and boats, even missiles (which see even bigger G forces..)

If there was the slightest issue with crimped connectors, don't you think the military and aircraft industry would have found it?

Solder has it's place, but this ain't it.

 

[nine4gmc]

3/4 crown top!

 

[Jack Olsen]

So, the guy who did the block grinder ID label artwork agreed to let me share it with people. Unfortunately for most everybody, it's in Adobe Illustrator format and requires some specific typefaces to be installed in your computer for it to work. Obviously, that's a problem for just about everybody. But I think I can work out a kind of form where a guy can submit a request with the information they want on it and I can email them a high-resolution file that they can then get printed out as a decal or a metal plate or whatever they can figure out.

Give me a few days, and I'll see what I have in the file in terms of logos and such and I'll try to present some choices, and then I can make up some labels for anyone who wants them. I don't assume there will be a whole lot of call for this. But if there are a handful of you out there, I'm happy to help.

You can have the factory-correct safety warning, too.

 

[torqueman2002]

So, the guy who did the block grinder ID label artwork agreed to let me share it with people. Unfortunately for most everybody, it's in Adobe Illustrator format and requires some specific typefaces to be installed in your computer for it to work. Obviously, that's a problem for just about everybody. But I think I can work out a kind of form where a guy can submit a request with the information they want on it and I can email them a high-resolution file that they can then get printed out as a decal or a metal plate or whatever they can figure out.

Give me a few days, and I'll see what I have in the file in terms of logos and such and I'll try to present some choices, and then I can make up some labels for anyone who wants them. I don't assume there will be a whole lot of call for this. But if there are a handful of you out there, I'm happy to help.

You can have the factory-correct safety warning, too.

Yes and YES!

Thank you Jack.

 

[torqueman2002]

3/4 crown top!

Thanks for the reminder, I'll post up a picture in the Crown Top thread.

 

[drivesitfar]

TM: that grinder is maybe one of the nicest I've seen since Go Blue. except for the minor rust at the bottom in the back it looks like its a new 40 year old Block.

how does it run? so you do have the missing parts and did it come with the big water tray, stand and tool rests?

also like the group shot of your brown happy crew.

 

[bluebolt]

TM: that grinder is maybe one of the nicest I've seen since Go Blue. except for the minor rust at the bottom in the back it looks like its a new 40 year old Block.

how does it run? so you do have the missing parts and did it come with the big water tray, stand and tool rests?

also like the group shot of your brown happy crew.

That's the one I found and posted, what you see is what he got.

Torqueman, I am happy to further your block addiction!