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let's see your craftsman block grinders

torqueman2002

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What maxima ^^ said.

I replace the bearings during tear-down/inspection. Long coast-down can be due to 'dry' bearings.

With new bearings, the fresh grease imparts some 'drag' which effects (or is it affects :headscrat) the coast-down.

If there is start-up noise, it could be rough bearings.

With the arbor/shaft assembly removed, the bearing should feel smooth without any roughness.

Bearings%201.jpg


http://www.ntnamericas.com/en/produ...ch-results/datasheet?pid=4809&cid=RBSRD&ctc=B

$5.05 +/Each
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5972k2/=wlkxie

I replace grinding stones that come with used grinders, because the stones' bonding material degrades if not stored/used in a dry environment.

The risk vs. cost, is not worth it in my view.
 
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MPOWERD

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Jun 7, 2011
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Got the second block grinder in today... Its a 1/3 HP Craftsman 397.19580 and it runs perfectly and spins down inside of a minute. Very smooth action. Just have to find a lamp for it. Has the original metal and glass shields... Came with a wire wheel as well... Needs a new paint job!

Will post a pic of it later today.
 

McBrownie

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Standard 6203zz (double shields) is what is in their now. You can also use double sealed if you like. I buy mine from the auction site. I don't buy vintage NOS bearings as the grease in them is already getting old at that point. I look for bearings with an ABEC rating of at least 3 or more if I can.

The only other thing to check, given your symptoms, is to make sure that the bearings are tight in the housings. If not, you can get a "rapping" on start up. If you have that problem, then use shims or a bearing mounting compound ( see loctite ) to get them seated properly.
 

MPOWERD

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MPOWERD

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Picture of my 1/3 HP Craftsman 397.19580 that I received today. Tom shipped it to me screwed into a plywood box inside a cardboard box and it came thru great...

image1a.JPG
 

drivesitfar

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Doc: Nice. I'd pay twice that for just that baldor stand if in my area. Free grinders are ok in my book and well let you brag here with your homies. Is the grinder a dayton or what because I couldn't blow up picture on my cell?
 

drivesitfar

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Doc: even better. i think you know you didn't overpay unless you drove across 3 states to buy it. i sold a 1/3 HP baldor for $200 a couple years ago and i think it was still underpriced. i had a REAL Baldor stand once and wish i didn't sell it with the buffer i had on it a few years ago. I guess you can only have so many tools, but i'm trying to keep the best ones. :D

Speaking of best tools i'm still looking for a 3/4 or 1 HP block in the old style that i barely see on here zero in my area in almost 2 years of searching now.

cheers
 

bluebolt

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Benton LA
Spotted a round top block with nice metal/glass eye shields and large water tray at an estate sale in the pictures for tomorrow. Wish me luck!

Picked it up, shields are in good shape and has the large water cup. 397.19580 date on bottom June 17 1968.

1/3 HP needs some shimming on the left grinding wheel. This one never had a light.
 

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Isaiah6113

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Oshawa, ON
Here's my contribution . . .

A Canadian 397.21135 picked up for US$37 (CA$50). Clean unit, original owner. Original 36 stone on the left and a CAI 80 on the right. There's a bit of rust on the back, but nothing a little Evaporust can't handle. Born on May 22, 1970.

The lamp isn't really as big as it seems . . . it's looming out at you because of my weird camera angle.






_________________________________________________________________

There's also been some talk about the differences between Canadian and US versions. Below is a little chart I did from some research here and at owwm (thank you Brian K.).



This speaks to the models within my design numbering (308X). Canadian versions are labelled M1 at the end of the design number. Basically modified electricals in two respects:

  1. Most of the Canadian numbered 397s have the black vertical lamp with heat vents at the top, as in my picture above.
  2. As well, there is about a 0.5HP difference between the Canadian versions and their US brothers.

So there we go! Great fun!

Matthew A.

PS If someone has a US 3/4HP 3084 design I'll fill in the chart with the model number and HP rating if you reply. Thanks!
 
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alpinewhite

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Orange County, California, USA
This thread is bad for my pocketbook. Now on my 5th grinder. Used to have just a small Delta. After I saw this thread, I've bought a 1HP Dayton, a 1/3HP block flat-top, a 1/3HP powder-coated block, and now a 1/3HP round-top block. Paid $35 for this one.

attachment.php

attachment.php
 

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torqueman2002

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SE Michigan
Here's my contribution . . .

A Canadian 397.21135 picked up for US$37 (CA$50). Clean unit, original owner. Original 36 stone on the left and a CAI 80 on the right. There's a bit of rust on the back, but nothing a little Evaporust can't handle. Born on May 22, 1970.

The lamp isn't really as big as it seems . . . it's looming out at you because of my weird camera angle.
_________________________________________________________________

There's also been some talk about the differences between Canadian and US versions. Below is a little chart I did from some research here and at owwm (thank you Brian K.).



This speaks to the models within my design numbering (308X). Canadian versions are labelled M1 at the end of the design number. Basically modified electricals in two respects:

  1. Most of the Canadian numbered 397s have the black vertical lamp with heat vents at the top, as in my picture above.
  2. As well, there is about a 0.5HP difference between the Canadian versions and their US brothers.

So there we go! Great fun!

Matthew A.

PS If someone has a US 3/4HP 3084 design I'll fill in the chart with the model number and HP rating if you reply. Thanks!

Matthew A. - Nice little project, and Block.

Here's what I have in my records/inventory.
Capture2.jpg


cman-grind-red%202.png


5%20FI%20P1090062%20a.jpg


FI%20P1080754.jpg


For%20internet%20P1000958.jpg


0.75%20HP%20257.21157-191500%20Canadian%20French%20GJ.jpg


0.75%20HP%20bglog%20Original.jpg



Oh, just for the heck of it - anyone have one of these Blocks?
CM%200.75%20HP%203%20P%20Block.jpg


0.75%20HP%20CM%203%20Phase%20a.jpg

:rocker:
 

torqueman2002

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SE Michigan
This thread is bad for my pocketbook. Now on my 5th grinder. Used to have just a small Delta. After I saw this thread, I've bought a 1HP Dayton, a 1/3HP block flat-top, a 1/3HP powder-coated block, and now a 1/3HP round-top block. Paid $35 for this one.
White - Nice Block, but hey don't trust me, I've never met a Block I didn't like. :lol:

Sounds like it may be too late, but see this link >>. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4832270&postcount=5478

You've been warned! :evil:
 
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balan

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Oct 22, 2014
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Green Bay, Wisconsin
Here is one I picked up a few months ago. A little rough looking 1/3 HP grinder. Vibrated a lot when the guy plugged it in and turned it on, once I got it home and pulled the wheels off it ran very smooth. It seems to be missing the tool rests and one safety shield, both spark arrestor are there however. I put a new wire wheel and grinder wheel on and can use it as is, I just need to build a stand for it. When I have time I would like to clean it up a bit.

20150914_205941.jpg
 

torqueman2002

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Messages
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Location
SE Michigan
Here is one I picked up a few months ago. A little rough looking 1/3 HP grinder. Vibrated a lot when the guy plugged it in and turned it on, once I got it home and pulled the wheels off it ran very smooth. It seems to be missing the tool rests and one safety shield, both spark arrestor are there however. I put a new wire wheel and grinder wheel on and can use it as is, I just need to build a stand for it. When I have time I would like to clean it up a bit.
Welcome to the Block thread and your first (?) Block.

It will clean up nicely. If you replace the bearings, I routinely do, it's easy with common mechanics hand tools, and cheap ($6 +/each).

The eye shield will be difficult to find, but see the following link for tool rests. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4907422&postcount=3
 

36truck

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Jul 13, 2010
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UP of Michigan
I'd like to get the 1/2 hp just the shipping is the deal breaker. Would someone ship it to me seeing as he doesn't want to ship. With out the stand is good for me.
 

MPOWERD

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Jun 7, 2011
Messages
578
Over on owwm.org I opened a thread about the rough noisy start my 1/2 HP grinder exhibits... The guys over there are telling me its probably a starter or capacity issue because the attached lamp dims and flickers while the grinder goes through the rough start. Personally I think its that and bad bearings. I now think the guy that sold it to me wasn't above board on the deal and knew he was sending me a lemon because when I opened up the bottom I have found screws missing and a broken tab...

http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=164750&p=1115989#p1115989

The starer is missing some of its mounting screws and the screw down tab on the left is broken...

See pic below:

Grinder-1.jpg
 
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bulletpruf

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Location
San Antonio
Finally got my block! Dr. Blockhead shipped it to my parents a year or two ago while I was stationed in Korea. Thought I was headed back to the states afterwards. Apparently not. Now I'm in Italy, so I asked Dad to send it to me. Arrived yesterday -- 1/2 hp block, excellent condition, dated 1972. Complete with quench tray, light, eye guards and stand. Need to hook it up to a transformer since we're on 220v here.
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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BP: if your block is a commercial one you can rewire it for 220. I think the wiring diagram is on this thread or maybe over on the the other forum where Doc posts a lot of them. i'd be curious how a rewired block works on 220 if you do have one that you can try.

congrats on the move and hope the new digs likes having some old US tools in it's garage.
 

torqueman2002

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Good to hear from you BP, see my comments in Blue.

Finally got my block! Dr. Blockhead shipped it to my parents a year or two ago while I was stationed in Korea. Thought I was headed back to the states afterwards. Apparently not. Now I'm in Italy, so I asked Dad to send it to me.
It has been a while. Thanks for your service!

Arrived yesterday -- 1/2 hp block, excellent condition, dated 1972. Complete with quench tray, light, eye guards and stand.
I remember it as a rather nice rtop.

Need to hook it up to a transformer since we're on 220v here.

BP: if your block is a commercial one you can rewire it for 220. I think the wiring diagram is on this thread or maybe over on the the other forum where Doc posts a lot of them. i'd be curious how a rewired block works on 220 if you do have one that you can try.
1/2-HP m-397.19591 115V 230V ....
BP - let me know if the inside bottom cover does not have the wiring diagram. I think I have another 1/2-HP m-397.19591 I can snap a pic of it's wiring diagram.

CM%200.50%20HP%20397.19591%20P1070542.jpg


CM%200.50%20HP%20397.19591%20P1070539.jpg
 

torqueman2002

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Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
Over on owwm.org I opened a thread about the rough noisy start my 1/2 HP grinder exhibits... The guys over there are telling me its probably a starter or capacity issue because the attached lamp dims and flickers while the grinder goes through the rough start. Personally I think its that and bad bearings. I now think the guy that sold it to me wasn't above board on the deal and knew he was sending me a lemon because when I opened up the bottom I have found screws missing and a broken tab...

http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=164750&p=1115989#p1115989

The starer is missing some of its mounting screws and the screw down tab on the left is broken...
Here's my reply to your OWWM post above.

Check this thread for dis-assembly, cleaning, and reassembly of a similar relay from a 1-HP CM 'Block' grinder. Reply #62 on: August 12, 2013.
http://www.thegaragegazette.com/index.php?topic=18119.msg235337#msg235337

Here's a note about these relays (not like most automotive-type relays).
Know Your Potential Starting Relays
http://www.achrnews.com/articles/92424-know-your-potential-starting-relays


Also, I think the relay in the OP's picture is held with a screw on the opposite side, out of view. There is what appears to be a locating post/pin that is visible. This is used on some of the CM Block grinders I have worked on, like the 1-HP, below.
BBRelayWiringViewa.jpg


Good luck, and let us know how you are progressing. With pictures, of course!
:thumbup:
 

harleybuilder

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Apr 4, 2014
Messages
287
Location
Southern IL
Here's my reply to your OWWM post above.

Check this thread for dis-assembly, cleaning, and reassembly of a similar relay from a 1-HP CM 'Block' grinder. Reply #62 on: August 12, 2013.
http://www.thegaragegazette.com/index.php?topic=18119.msg235337#msg235337

Here's a note about these relays (not like most automotive-type relays).
Know Your Potential Starting Relays
http://www.achrnews.com/articles/92424-know-your-potential-starting-relays


Also, I think the relay in the OP's picture is held with a screw on the opposite side, out of view. There is what appears to be a locating post/pin that is visible. This is used on some of the CM Block grinders I have worked on, like the 1-HP, below.
BBRelayWiringViewa.jpg


Good luck, and let us know how you are progressing. With pictures, of course!
[emoji106]
Torqueman your correct the relay is held on by 1 screw on the backside out of sight.
 
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