let's see your craftsman block grinders

[harleybuilder]

Doc -

Took the plate off - had a very nice wiring diagram on the backside. Removed one wire altogether and then swapped one end of another one. Used an adapter to plug into 220 outlet and it fired right up.

Seems to run great -- took 2:03 to come to a complete halt!

Figure I'll swap the wheels for some fresh ones -- I know I've seen recommendations here, but that may have been 50 pages ago, so does anyone have thoughts?

Need one rubber "foot" too -- it came with three. Might as well get a few spares. Anyone have the link or part # handy for these?

Anything else I need to do?

Thanks,

Scott

You can get the "feet" at Lowe's or any place that carries Hillman , they are Hillman part number 884633.

 

[torqueman2002]

Thanks. Mine isn't as clean though but I did get a stand. I paid $90.

Any 1-HP Block this side of a 100-dollar bill, is a you **** price with or with out a stand!

 

[torqueman2002]

Doc -

Took the plate off - had a very nice wiring diagram on the backside. Removed one wire altogether and then swapped one end of another one. Used an adapter to plug into 220 outlet and it fired right up.

Seems to run great -- took 2:03 to come to a complete halt!

Figure I'll swap the wheels for some fresh ones -- I know I've seen recommendations here, but that may have been 50 pages ago, so does anyone have thoughts?

Need one rubber "foot" too -- it came with three. Might as well get a few spares. Anyone have the link or part # handy for these?

Anything else I need to do?

Thanks,

Scott

Great Scott!

I like Norton for grinding wheels, but be prepared to spend more $$ than you might have for the Block (I don't recall, and let's not get into that here ).

Try these links for info. on how to pick a grinding stone.
How to Select the Right Grinding Wheel
http://www.neme-s.org/Shaper%20Books/Grinding%20Dressers/Select%20the%20Right%20Grinding%20Wheel.pdf
Choosing The Right Grinding Wheel
http://www.mmsonline.com/articles/choosing-the-right-grinding-wheel

To order:
Enco
http://tinyurl.com/Enco-Grinding-Wheels

McMaster-Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#abrasive-grinding-wheels/=z1efz3

MSC Direct
http://tinyurl.com/MSCDirect-Grindg-Wheels

Enco
per: Isaiah6113 - 'Enco has 7" wheels. Their house brand is Tru-Maxx, which are made by Saint-Gobain (who also make Norton). The Bond Grade and Structure in the Aluminum Oxide wheels are N8 and abrasive type 57. In the Silicon Carbide the Bond Grade and Structure is I8 with abrasive type 39C. While Enco doesn't specify the wheels do come with inserts. Set four up recently on my two Rockwell 7" and they run very nicely. Also two for my Rockwell 6". Don't forget a Desmond dresser or dressing stick if you prefer. Their silicon carbine dressing stick has a grit of 24. Some also like diamond point dressers. Enco often has 15-20% discounts with free shipping, so sign up and monitor their emails for specials.'

 

[bulletpruf]

Great Scott!

I like Norton for grinding wheels, but be prepared to spend more $$ than you might have for the Block (I don't recall, and let's not get into that here ).

Try these links for info. on how to pick a grinding stone.
How to Select the Right Grinding Wheel
http://www.neme-s.org/Shaper Books/Grinding Dressers/Select the Right Grinding Wheel.pdf
Choosing The Right Grinding Wheel
http://www.mmsonline.com/articles/choosing-the-right-grinding-wheel

Enco has 7" wheels. Their house brand is Tru-Maxx, which are made by Saint-Gobain (who also make Norton). The Bond Grade and Structure in the Aluminum Oxide wheels are N8 and abrasive type 57. In the Silicon Carbide the Bond Grade and Structure is I8 with abrasive type 39C. While Enco doesn't specify the wheels do come with inserts. Set four up recently on my two Rockwell 7" and they run very nicely. Also two for my Rockwell 6". Don't forget a Desmond dresser or dressing stick if you prefer. Their silicon carbine dressing stick has a grit of 24. Some also like diamond point dressers. Enco often has 15-20% discounts with free shipping, so sign up and monitor their emails for specials.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRAR?PMSECT=0000000107

McMaster-Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#abrasive-grinding-wheels/=z1efz3

MSC Direct
http://tinyurl.com/MSCDirect-Grindg-Wheels

Thanks, T-Man! Already have a diamond dresser and dressing stick. Will get some wheels ordered.

Scott

 

[Isaiah6113]

Enco has 7" wheels. Their house brand is Tru-Maxx, which are made by Saint-Gobain (who also make Norton). The Bond Grade and Structure in the Aluminum Oxide wheels are N8 and abrasive type 57. In the Silicon Carbide the Bond Grade and Structure is I8 with abrasive type 39C. While Enco doesn't specify the wheels do come with inserts. Set four up recently on my two Rockwell 7" and they run very nicely. Also two for my Rockwell 6". Don't forget a Desmond dresser or dressing stick if you prefer. Their silicon carbine dressing stick has a grit of 24. Some also like diamond point dressers. Enco often has 15-20% discounts with free shipping, so sign up and monitor their emails for specials.

Well, I'm delighted to see that someone's been reading my posts! LOL

http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=135630&start=15

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=337-7335&PMPXNO=28079511

Matthew A. aka Isaiah6113
Still awed by the Small World we live in . . .

 

[jakemac]

Well, now we have our first guinea pi ........ er ........ victi ........ er ........ researcher, yes lets go with researcher, to tell us how the block grinders run on 220v. It's been a question here for a while now. Now we just need someone who can do a side by side comparison between the performance at 120v vs 220v.

Bulletpruf - You'll have to give us a report over time on the performance of your grinder.

 

[McBrownie]

Anything else I need to do?

Yes. USE IT!!!.

By the way, you are the first person on this thread to run one on 220. Congrats!

 

[torqueman2002]

Well, I'm delighted to see that someone's been reading my posts! LOL

http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=135630&start=15

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=337-7335&PMPXNO=28079511

Matthew A. aka Isaiah6113
Still awed by the Small World we live in . . .

I lost track of where I got that. I'll add a credit!

 

[MPOWERD]

In Akron OH $85

https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/tls/5219804539.html

Thanks for the pic... I added wheels to one of my stands just like in your pic. Mine are locking as well. Now its a lot easier to get the grinder into position to use!

 

[bagged89s10]

Thanks for the pic... I added wheels to one of my stands just like in your pic. Mine are locking as well. Now its a lot easier to get the grinder into position to use!

Does the grinder wobble during operation with wheels on the stand even when they are locked?

 

[bulletpruf]

You can get the "feet" at Lowe's or any place that carries Hillman , they are Hillman part number 884633.
[/IMG]

Thanks. No Lowe's within 5000 miles of here, but it looks like I can order them online.

Scott

 

[bulletpruf]

Well, now we have our first guinea pi ........ er ........ victi ........ er ........ researcher, yes lets go with researcher, to tell us how the block grinders run on 220v. It's been a question here for a while now. Now we just need someone who can do a side by side comparison between the performance at 120v vs 220v.

Bulletpruf - You'll have to give us a report over time on the performance of your grinder.

Ok, I will start off on 220. Will take all of 3 minutes to swap to 110.

Scott

 

[bulletpruf]

Yes. USE IT!!!.

By the way, you are the first person on this thread to run one on 220. Congrats!

Really? Figured a lot of folks here had 220 in the garage to run compressors, welder, etc. Guess if you have 110 there's no real need to run it on 220.

Yes, I'm definitely going to use it. This won't be a restoration project, at least not at this point. Figure I'll put a few grinding wheels on it and put some wire wheels on my Ryobi.

Thanks

Scott

 

[drivesitfar]

Scott: yes, i think you are the first to actually rewire and try a block at 220 that participate in this thread. i don't have a 220 plug handy so didn't change my commercial 1/2 HP to 220 so curious to know what you think of yours.

good luck and hope your new digs in Italy are coming together and also hope you are finding the locals are friendly too.

cheers

 

[alpinewhite]

Scott: yes, i think you are the first to actually rewire and try a block at 220 that participate in this thread. i don't have a 220 plug handy so didn't change my commercial 1/2 HP to 220 so curious to know what you think of yours.

I didn't bother switching mine to 220v as I didn't see much advantage of doing so. The HP rating is so low that current draw is minimal (as compared to welders or air compressors). The voltage drop across the wire will be insignificant that I doubt it'll be noticeable. Plus, making it 220v will make it less portable as 220v doesn't exist in everyone's garage.

 

[drivesitfar]

Alpine: things we've all discussed before and probably why i didn't bother trying to change mine. would still like to hear how Scott's works on 220 just the same.

thanks for reminding me

 

[Loscaldazar]

I'll see if those p/n's match any spares I might have, when I return from a trip.

Please remind me in a week.

A little bit late on the reminder, but hey! Part numbers below again. The main thing I need is the flange. I may buy a nice grinding tool rest specifically for tool grinding (wolverine, Verita, etc)

Yeah, it looks like that one. Too far for me to drive though to get it

Part numbers are:
Right Hand Side Guard: 534628127
Right Hand Tool Rests: 4655 and 5219135
Outer Flange: 4937

It's a beast of a grinder, so I really hope I can find the parts to restore it to full functionality.

 

[bagged89s10]

A little bit late on the reminder, but hey! Part numbers below again. The main thing I need is the flange. I may buy a nice grinding tool rest specifically for tool grinding (wolverine, Verita, etc)

Post a picture of what parts you need. I might have some for you.

 

[Loscaldazar]

Post a picture of what parts you need. I might have some for you.

I need the exterior flange for the right side (should be the same as the exterior flange from the left side) and the right side exterior guard.

Right side tool rests I'm not too concerned about.

Here are pictures of the flange (from the left side) and a picture of the entire unit to see the missing right side guard.

 

[bagged89s10]

I need the exterior flange for the right side (should be the same as the exterior flange from the left side) and the right side exterior guard.



Right side tool rests I'm not too concerned about.



Here are pictures of the flange (from the left side) and a picture of the entire unit to see the missing right side guard.

Oh you got the big boy. I only have spare parts from half horsepower or smaller.

 

[McBrownie]

I need the exterior flange for the right side (should be the same as the exterior flange from the left side) and the right side exterior guard.

Right side tool rests I'm not too concerned about.

Here are pictures of the flange (from the left side) and a picture of the entire unit to see the missing right side guard.

Post up some dimensions and a member with a lathe (not me, unfortunately) might offer to make some up for you.

 

[torqueman2002]

A little bit late on the reminder, but hey! Part numbers below again. The main thing I need is the flange. I may buy a nice grinding tool rest specifically for tool grinding (wolverine, Verita, etc)

Hey, thanks. Just as I thought, I needed reminding.

I don't have the OEM 5/8" flanges, but check the links blow; I did place an order for replacement flanges for a 3/4-HP Block, from: http://www.1800toolrepair.com/

http://www.thegaragegazette.com/index.php?topic=5493.msg279054#msg279054

I will check if I have the RH WG cover (534628127) and RH Tool Rests (4655 and 5219135).

Mike

 

[bagged89s10]

So I got this cart for 50cents or $1 at a tag sale a couple months ago. You can see it under this band saw. It's 1" thick, 12"x30.5". It had fixed casters because it was used as a tv cart I think.

I swapped out the fixed casters for 2" swivel locking casters from homedepot.


I just need to bolt the bases to the cart and its a perfect mobile dual grinder cart. Buffer on one side and wire wheel and grinding stone on the other.


And yes I will turn the bases to both face the same direction before bottling them down.
I will eventually add a power outlet/switch of some sort to the cart. I gotta find some dust collection bags and a place to put grinder/buffer accessories would be cool too.

 

[BlueBomber]

So I got this cart for 50cents or $1 at a tag sale a couple months ago. You can see it under this band saw. It's 1" thick, 12"x30.5". It had fixed casters because it was used as a tv cart I think.

I swapped out the fixed casters for 2" swivel locking casters from homedepot.


I just need to bolt the bases to the cart and its a perfect mobile dual grinder cart. Buffer on one side and wire wheel and grinding stone on the other.


And yes I will turn the bases to both face the same direction before bottling them down.
I will eventually add a power outlet/switch of some sort to the cart. I gotta find some dust collection bags and a place to put grinder/buffer accessories would be cool too.

Bagged: how much does that thing move around/shimmy when you fire up one of those machines?

 

[torqueman2002]

bagged - I like that art-deco band saw.

 

[bagged89s10]

Bagged: how much does that thing move around/shimmy when you fire up one of those machines?

I had the same question about shimmy with a grinder in wheels when I saw MPowered post a stand with wheels. Very slight shimmy without locking the wheels. I locked 2 of the wheels and tried using the wire wheel and it seems fine. I will lock all the wheels and test the real difference on and off the cart tonight. And maybe a test with the stands bolted to the cart.

 

[bagged89s10]

bagged - I like that art-deco band saw.

Thanks. I actually sold the bandsaw though. I already have a craftsman bandsaw which needs a little work. I got that power king one for free and didn't have room to keep it or time to fix both.

 

[WWShop]

Need expert opinions. I believe this is a pre-block craftsman grinder. Still cool though and the owner says it is in great condition. Is it worth $40?

 

[jakemac]

Yes, it's a pre-block. It looks complete (those didn't have side covers, lights, or quench trays).
If it's a 1/4hp, then I'd say it should be in the $25 range. If it's a 1/3hp then maybe $30-$35 tops. If it's 1/2hp then it's worth $40 if you want to pay that. If it's a 3/4hp or a 1hp then yes, that price would be a steal.

 

[oak_park]

I recently came across this one, with intact plastic tray. Type CKO 7inch wheels. Made by Packard Electric. Owner wanted 40.00, I passed because I really don't need it.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

I need the exterior flange for the right side (should be the same as the exterior flange from the left side) and the right side exterior guard.

Right side tool rests I'm not too concerned about.

Here are pictures of the flange (from the left side) and a picture of the entire unit to see the missing right side guard.

Pretty sure I have a pair of the outer exterior guards I took off my grinder when new.

Sears shows this in stock

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/6281-0-27/0009/257.html

 

[bulletpruf]

Scott: yes, i think you are the first to actually rewire and try a block at 220 that participate in this thread. i don't have a 220 plug handy so didn't change my commercial 1/2 HP to 220 so curious to know what you think of yours.

good luck and hope your new digs in Italy are coming together and also hope you are finding the locals are friendly too.

cheers

Drives -

I don't think 220 vs. 110 will make much of a difference, but I'm happy to report on it. It just takes about 3 minutes to change from one to the other, and I just have to plug into a transformer when I go to 110.

Things are coming together nicely here. Working a deal on a 1972 Alfa Romeo GT Junior 1300. All my tools should arrive by 20 October or so; will be like Christmas -- haven't seen my stuff in over 2 years. Will be nice to have compressor, welder, sandblast cabinet, tool assortment, and garage again.


Scott

 

[bulletpruf]

I didn't bother switching mine to 220v as I didn't see much advantage of doing so. The HP rating is so low that current draw is minimal (as compared to welders or air compressors). The voltage drop across the wire will be insignificant that I doubt it'll be noticeable. Plus, making it 220v will make it less portable as 220v doesn't exist in everyone's garage.

All valid points with the exception of portability. Swapping back to 110 took me 3 minutes, but only because I closely studied the diagram for 2:30.

Scott

 

[alpinewhite]

All valid points with the exception of portability. Swapping back to 110 took me 3 minutes, but only because I closely studied the diagram for 2:30.

That extra 3 minutes would get old after a while. Haven't you not done something because it's not convenient? All things being equal, it's still less portable. it may take "only" 3 minutes but it's still 3 minutes' worth of work.

 

[bulletpruf]

Haven't you not done something because it's not convenient?

Actually, I seem to prefer doing things that are extremely inconvenient. FYI - you're asking this of someone who pulled a 1970 GTO into the shop for a tune up and brake job, that somehow ended up with the car of the frame in short order, 5 year nut and bolt restoration, first place at GTO Nationals....

 

[jransom]

Picked up this 1/2hp yesterday for $50. Took over 3 minutes for it to spin down when I tested it last night! Anyone know where to get some eye shields for it? Came with a quench tray too.

You can see my 68 round top in the back in one of these pictures. One will be set up for grinding and wire wheeling and the other will be set up for polishing. Thanks guys!

 

[torqueman2002]

Picked up this 1/2hp yesterday for $50. Took over 3 minutes for it to spin down when I tested it last night! Anyone know where to get some eye shields for it? Came with a quench tray too.

You can see my 68 round top in the back in one of these pictures. One will be set up for grinding and wire wheeling and the other will be set up for polishing. Thanks guys!

Nice!

Look here for replacement eye shields (OEM are n.a. | maybe used, try putting an ad in classified section and/or eBay - really).
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4000529&postcount=3

The bearings should feel smooth and have no play; remove the stones/wheels and turn slowly by hand.

Also, a spin-down time >1 min. can be a factor of size/mass of wheel/stone AND the amount of lubrication remaining in the bearing(s).

A new bearing, with fresh grease, has relatively more 'drag' than a older bearing with hard/dry grease. This will tend to make the bearing run hotter also.

The bearings are ~$7 and not hard to install.

I routinely replace the bearings, clean & tighten electrical terminals/connections, and replace marginal wiring - most often power cords.

 

[bagged89s10]

Picked up this 1/2hp yesterday for $50. Took over 3 minutes for it to spin down when I tested it last night! Anyone know where to get some eye shields for it? Came with a quench tray too.



You can see my 68 round top in the back in one of these pictures. One will be set up for grinding and wire wheeling and the other will be set up for polishing. Thanks guys!

You're in luck. I have a grinder I'm parting out.



Pm me

 

[bagged89s10]

You're in luck. I have a grinder I'm parting out.



Pm me

Found my meguiars plastic cleaner and it works really well to clean up these plastic shields.

 

[808state]

Any idea if this quench tray would fit on a 397-19430?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MACHINISTS-...NDER-WATER-HOLDER-CUP-CONTAINER-/311444631602