let's see your craftsman block grinders

[exmaxima1]

Went and got me a Weiler wire wheel like everyone says to put on my block and I must say, I’m not real impressed with it. It through wires at me and the wires are bent out so that they are hitting the grinder and taking off my new paint job.
Not sure what to think.

Remove the guard on the wire wheel side. The wheel won't hit anything and you have much better access when using it.

 

[torqueman2002]

redriderjr326 - I too was not happy when the wire wheels started stripping the paint off my newly restored 3/4-HP Block.

I used a wide Weiler, and have accepted the wear and tear. After all, I rescued it to be used and Oh Well, ....

It is a great combination, the 3/4-HP Block and the wire wheels.

 

[torqueman2002]

I know I've been absent for a bit. Actually, I read this thread everyday, but have been pre-occupied with getting our daughter and her husband's 2004 Yukon Denali XL into a safe and reliable condition.

I have been keeping the Blocks on CL from being tossed into the landfill and out of the hands of the infidels.

The latest rescue is a 1/2-HP flat top dual voltage Commercial Crown Top Model 397.19440.

My plan is to re-furbish a number of Blocks; replace bearings, paint, new label, and fix electrical issues, where needed. Some will be sold with stones/wire wheels and all will be complete with eye shields, tool rests, quench trays, lamps, and spark arresters.

I will show them here with a link to a post in our classified section.

About the same time I will list in the Metro Detroit CL, and put it on eBay.

However, members in good standing will receive priority and the member reduced-price, posted in the classified section.

The Blocks will be professionally packed, insured, and shipped via FedEx, from 48334.

Here are a couple of shots I took yesterday, before it got it's first clean-up with Simple Green.

Link to classified post, --> https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7458654#post7458654.

 

[torqueman2002]

I hope I didn't kill this thread with that last post.


Here's a Block you don't often see. A 3-phase! $80.00!

https://jxn.craigslist.org/tls/d/craftsman-industrial-8-grinder/6717045058.html

 

[greg86z28]

Have any of you guys converted your 120V grinders to 220V? What do you use for a power cord? Right now mine has a hack job 120V extension cord coming out of it - no grommet for the cord passing through the grinder housing on the back/side. I'd like to go 220V and also make it look nice.

 

[emeraldcoupe]

I saw this on eBay and had dreams of mounting two blocks. I believe the stand is for a Craftsman lathe.

I just found one of these today with whatever the tool is still attached to it. I can go back and get it for $50, i'm tempted but running out of room.

 

[chrisnazzy]

I just found one of these today with whatever the tool is still attached to it. I can go back and get it for $50, i'm tempted but running out of room.

For only $50, I would make room! The double stands don't seem to come up for sale very often. I'd bet you could triple your money or more just on the stand.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[Outlawmws]

Have any of you guys converted your 120V grinders to 220V? What do you use for a power cord? Right now mine has a hack job 120V extension cord coming out of it - no grommet for the cord passing through the grinder housing on the back/side. I'd like to go 220V and also make it look nice.

I have not done a block, but I did convert a Taiwan 1 HP 30 years ago. (since died..) use the same size cord as you are not really using any more amps. The plug is the thing to do right. you need a proper 220 plug and I went with twist locks. (My old DP was also 220 converted...)

My shop is wired for both 110 and 220.

 

[Exeter]

Over 3 years after restoring it, I finally got around to ordering a label from Mattblast. The label is perfect!

Here's the grinder in it's final form. (absent a wheel and the shields of course)

 

[Retroman]

Should these grinders shut down quickly when turned off? Looking at one that spins quite a while after switching off I thought I read somewhere that was not normal?

Help please ASAP as I need to Make a decision on this one. Asking a $100 with original shields, light, stand with cooling tray. Not sure on size probably 1/3 to 1/4 HP.

 

[bubinga]

Should these grinders shut down quickly when turned off? Looking at one that spins quite a while after switching off I thought I read somewhere that was not normal?

Help please ASAP as I need to Make a decision on this one. Asking a $100 with original shields, light, stand with cooling tray. Not sure on size probably 1/3 to 1/4 HP.

offer $75.00 tell him it needs bearings That's all It needs,
Should Not stop RIGHT AWAY either, It's not a Brake!
And it don't even Need them Right away,
Just means it's lost most 0f the grease.

 

[bubinga]

offer $75.00 tell him it needs bearings That's all It needs,
Should Not stop RIGHT AWAY either, It's not a Brake!
And it don't even Need them Right away,
Just means it's lost most 0f the grease.

But Take it for $100.00 if he won't take $75.00.
It's well worth it Considering the stand too!

 

[Retroman]

Thanks,

But somebody else is coming by while I am at work so it will probably be gone.

 

[bubinga]

Thanks,

But somebody else is coming by while I am at work so it will probably be gone.

hang in there, we can't get them every time.

 

[greg86z28]

When I'm assembling my grinder, does the motor need to be shimmed (rotor and stator air gap)? Or when reassembling is that gap essentially fixed by the design (the primary shaft seems fixed by the tight bearing fit into the 2 outer housings).

Thanks

Greg

 

[LesserSon]

And so it begins...

 

[Outlawmws]

Nice find!

Use a stone dresser on the left wheel and get that aluminum gunge off...

 

[Retroman]

Thanks,

But somebody else is coming by while I am at work so it will probably be gone.

Looks like the guy never showed up on this grinder and stand so with any luck it will be mine tomorrow.

 

[bubinga]

Looks like the guy never showed up on this grinder and stand so with any luck it will be mine tomorrow.

Good!!

 

[LesserSon]

Uggh...
So anyone else bust the plastic lamp visor / heat-shield before realizing how it’s attached?
My item has a Sep 26 1974A birthday. Black plastic - ABS? Anyone know for sure?
Any repair ideas? I’m sure JB Weld will hold at room temperature and stand up to the heat, too. But I hear ABS expands way more than JB Weld as the temp climbs, so it might fail that way.
Thought of universal plumbing “glue” (ABS/PVC), but also hear straight MEK will bond ABS. This last approach has the advantage of not introducing any permanant substance between the two surfaces.
Thoughts? Success stories?
Looks like online a new replacement (different part#) is about $3.50 plus shipping. Maybe try that, plus a water tray?

 

[cajunfirehawk]

When I'm assembling my grinder, does the motor need to be shimmed (rotor and stator air gap)? Or when reassembling is that gap essentially fixed by the design (the primary shaft seems fixed by the tight bearing fit into the 2 outer housings).

Thanks

Greg

Greg, Someone in this thread shimmed theirs, search for that, he used some strips of some type of soft metal, brass if memory serves?

 

[cajunfirehawk]

BTW have not posted in this thread in quite a while, not because I have slowed down collecting blocks but I have been spending a lot of time on my 36 ford, but recently I acquired a pair of some super clean and one is kind of rare blocks, will post pics friday when I am off.

 

[PacificaVette]

Uggh...
So anyone else bust the plastic lamp visor / heat-shield before realizing how it’s attached?
My item has a Sep 26 1974A birthday. Black plastic - ABS? Anyone know for sure?
Any repair ideas? I’m sure JB Weld will hold at room temperature and stand up to the heat, too. But I hear ABS expands way more than JB Weld as the temp climbs, so it might fail that way.
Thought of universal plumbing “glue” (ABS/PVC), but also hear straight MEK will bond ABS. This last approach has the advantage of not introducing any permanant substance between the two surfaces.
Thoughts? Success stories?
Looks like online a new replacement (different part#) is about $3.50 plus shipping. Maybe try that, plus a water tray?

Instead of an incandescent bulb, why not try an LED? They don't produce very much heat at all.

 

[greg86z28]

Greg, Someone in this thread shimmed theirs, search for that, he used some strips of some type of soft metal, brass if memory serves?

Just saw that. It appears that a lot of people have reassembled their grinders without shimming. However, some folks have had rubbing issues and had to shim.

I'll give not shimming a whirl.

I'm pretty much all painted up over here, just need to find a new lamp shield and a new power cord.

 

[LesserSon]

Instead of an incandescent bulb, why not try an LED? They don't produce very much heat at all.

Yes, I think so. Fuller spectrum, too.
I will probably try MEK as an experiment, then if it fails, JB Weld. If that fails, on to the SearsParts site. I would prefer to keep the original part (with original part number) with it, if it can be repaired.
I looked back through the thread and see that this is not an unheard-of break.
I had the switch and gooseneck out of it last night while cleaning the removeable cover. And have the wheels off too. Looks like someone was grinding wet with it, from hardened grit gobs and rust distribution. The 6x3/4” Sears wheels ring true, but the 36 grit one (the one Outlaw suggested dressing) has been ground to a bevel on one side. I’m planning to put wire wheels on it for a while anyway, for now, as I have a cheap Grizzly with stone wheels on it. When that craps out, or maybe when painting season returns, I’ll probably repaint the Craftsman and put stone wheels back on it.

 

[tym]

Question. Are the 1/4 hp block grinders supposed to come with rubber bushing feet and spark arrestors like the higher-hp versions? The exploded view I found on the Sears website (and downloaded since it all may vaporize soon) doesn't illustrate either, and my grinder didn't have them, so I wasn't sure if the lower-hp grinders weren't equipped or if they're just missing.

I was able to find some of the Hillman bushings that make suitable feet at Lowe's thanks to this thread, but would like to add the spark arrestors if they should be there.

Might also try to find a lamp to add too--the grinder has the unbroken knockout for it at the back.

 

[LesserSon]

Same here, I see no evidence my 1/3hp ever had feet.

 

[Outlawmws]

Spark arresters are definitely worth adding even for, or especially for wire wheels;cuts down on the number of wires found in your shirt front...

 

[MissileBear]

Spark arresters are definitely worth adding even for, or especially for wire wheels;cuts down on the number of wires found in your shirt front...

+1 on this.

Years ago I was using a wire wheel on a 7" grinder to clean up the threaded end of a little 3" lag bolt. I got a little overzealous and the wheel grabbed that screw out of my hands, spun it around the inside of housing, and shot it out the top front of the grinder where the spark arrestor had been (the owner had removed it). The lag bolt hit the floor in between my feet and took a sizable chunk out of the concrete. It would have embedded itself into my leg if I had been standing a few inches to either side.

It's definitely a safety feature worth having.

 

[drivesitfar]

Lessor: I haven't broken the plastic shields myself, but have bought several blocks with cracked ones. if a replacement is that cheap i'd go that method if you don't find a metal one in your travels that look a lot cooler in my opinion (of course they get hotter).

Cajun: so fixing an old car and no time to post up more blocks?

Doc: I saw you took a well deserved break and WELCOME BACK!!

ALL: while i'm getting organized and/or scaling down i'm finding blocks tucked away and i'd still like to make a wall of them with 10 or so different wheels. maybe i'll live long enough to do just that.

anybody have several set up with different wheels cause only person i can recall that did that was DOC?

I still don't own a 3/4 or 1hp block so the search continues.

 

[exmaxima1]

My item has a Sep 26 1974A birthday. Black plastic - ABS? Anyone know for sure?
Any repair ideas? I’m sure JB Weld will hold at room temperature and stand up to the heat, too. But I hear ABS expands way more than JB Weld as the temp climbs, so it might fail that way.
Thought of universal plumbing “glue” (ABS/PVC), but also hear straight MEK will bond ABS. This last approach has the advantage of not introducing any permanant substance between the two surfaces.
Thoughts? Success stories?

I don't think it is abs plastic on those original grinder shades, seems more like a thermoset plastic (ie, bakelite). The replacements could be ABS, or even nylon, as they don't have the same "feel" as the originals.
I repaired my original shade with some epoxy made for plastics. Worked fine, it's not a museum piece. You don't even see it once the metal liner is installed.

 

[exmaxima1]

I got a little overzealous and the wheel grabbed that screw out of my hands, spun it around the inside of housing, and shot it out the top front of the grinder where the spark arrestor had been (the owner had removed it). The lag bolt hit the floor in between my feet and took a sizable chunk out of the concrete.

If you remove the entire wheel guard (and wear a decent face shield for the loose wires) you won't ever have the parts fly back at you. I feel much better using my wire wheel setup sans guards.

 

[JZiggy]

I don't think it is abs plastic on those original grinder shades, seems more like a thermoset plastic (ie, bakelite). The replacements could be ABS, or even nylon, as they don't have the same "feel" as the originals.
I repaired my original shade with some epoxy made for plastics. Worked fine, it's not a museum piece. You don't even see it once the metal liner is installed.

Yep, epoxy or superglue would work well for that. Unless it's a PE or PP plastic then you'd need to use something like Loctite Plastics Bonder which has a primer (and it does work well for PE/PP)

 

[tym]

+1 on this.

Years ago I was using a wire wheel on a 7" grinder to clean up the threaded end of a little 3" lag bolt. I got a little overzealous and the wheel grabbed that screw out of my hands, spun it around the inside of housing, and shot it out the top front of the grinder where the spark arrestor had been (the owner had removed it). The lag bolt hit the floor in between my feet and took a sizable chunk out of the concrete. It would have embedded itself into my leg if I had been standing a few inches to either side.

It's definitely a safety feature worth having.

*shudders* I was just wondering what would have happened had it landed a bit higher and embedded itself in something that's definitely not the leg.

That's enough to scare me into finding/making some arrestors for my 1/4 hp unit.

 

[Bobioz1]

If you remove the entire wheel guard (and wear a decent face shield for the loose wires) you won't ever have the parts fly back at you. I feel much better using my wire wheel setup sans guards.

Same here. And stick with a 6” wheel. 8” wire wheels are scary.

 

[bubinga]

*shudders* I was just wondering what would have happened had it landed a bit higher and embedded itself in something that's definitely not the leg.

That's enough to scare me into finding/making some arrestors for my 1/4 hp unit.

Same here. And stick with a 6” wheel. 8” wire wheels are scary.

YES!!

 

[LesserSon]

Bought a 4” 1/4hp today from the same vendor I got the 6” 1/3hp. No switch, looks like a replacement power cord. Missing the tool rest and shield I swapped off it onto the 1/3. Had three rubber feet still on it, so now I see where they go. He was asking $15, but we settled on $12, with a 6” Klein adjustable wrench for good measure.
Question: with the guards off, 6” wire wheels would work, right?

 

[torqueman2002]

Bought a 4” 1/4hp today from the same vendor I got the 6” 1/3hp. No switch, looks like a replacement power cord. Missing the tool rest and shield I swapped off it onto the 1/3. Had three rubber feet still on it, so now I see where they go. He was asking $15, but threw in a 6” Klein adjustable for $12.
Question: with the guards off, 6” wire wheels would work, right?

You don't mention the model number, but the 1/4-HP round top Blocks I've seen, 6" wheels/stones should fit.


Wheel guard covers on my 1/4 & 1/3 HP rt Blocks m-397.19400 & m-397.19581, are interchangeable.

 

[torqueman2002]

... would like to add the spark arrestors if they should be there.

Might also try to find a lamp to add too--the grinder has the unbroken knockout for it at the back.

Check out tool_scrounge's listing.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=404156

 

[LesserSon]

You don't mention the model number, but the 1/4-HP round top Blocks I've seen, 6" wheels/stones should fit.


Wheel guard covers on my 1/4 & 1/3 HP rt Blocks m-397.19400 & m-397.19581, are interchangeable.

397-19570
I think you’re right. I just had 4” in my mind, because the vendor said it took 4” wheels. I’ll know for sure when I get them side by side.

Edit - yes, identical to 1/3 with 6” wheels on it.