let's see your craftsman block grinders

[Bobioz1]

Bought a 4” 1/4hp today from the same vendor I got the 6” 1/3hp. No switch, looks like a replacement power cord. Missing the tool rest and shield I swapped off it onto the 1/3. Had three rubber feet still on it, so now I see where they go. He was asking $15, but we settled on $12, with a 6” Klein adjustable wrench for good measure.
Question: with the guards off, 6” wire wheels would work, right?

6” is correct but 1/4hp is weak for wire wheeling. I had a 1/3hp and was unimpressed.

 

[tym]

You don't mention the model number, but the 1/4-HP round top Blocks I've seen, 6" wheels/stones should fit.

My 1/4hp block came with a 6" wheel on it, so I can confirm that they fit.

Thanks also for the link to the parts listing on the Classifieds!

 

[LesserSon]

My 1/4hp story took a turn for the worse. It ran fine plugged in, but when I took the cover off to pound out a dent, I noticed insulation on the wires leading into the wraps was cracked. Probably would have been less worse, but whoever upgraded the power cord from 2prong to 3prong neglected to put a grommet in the entry hole, which has allowed repeated tension to flex the rigid insulation. Plus, looks like corrosion in there. Definitely corrosion on one trrminal, and the corroded ends that led into a wire nut just broke away when I tried to untwist it. I’m not sure of the feasability of replacing the wires that lead into the wraps.
It’s a shame, because every other component is in great shape.

 

[tym]

That all looks fixable with a little patience.

 

[LesserSon]

Well, as long as I have it apart, I figured I’d give it a thorough cleaning. Here’s the lovely dark gray slightly metalic, slightly hammered parts. Really beautiful, despite some wear.

 

[chrisnazzy]

Here's a pic of my newly acquired 397.19590 Craftsman Commercial 1/2 HP on an original pedestal. I've yet to find some time to get it all cleaned up.

It's pictured next to my 397.19580 1/3 HP and a little Baldor I've set up as a buffer.

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[greg86z28]

Finally finished up my grinder (well mostly). Stripped all the paint off and repainted. Also replaced the bearings while I had it apart.

I need to replace the power cord and attach the gooseneck lamp. I also need to replace the eye shields. Then I'll be on the lookout for a stand.

Some "before" pictures:

 

[LesserSon]

Looks great! Assuming it is the lighting that gives the two photos a different cast. What paint/colors did you use?

 

[greg86z28]

Looks great! Assuming it is the lighting that gives the two photos a different cast. What paint/colors did you use?

I started with a Rustoleum primer. Then it's colored with Rustoleum Satin Nickel and Rustoleum Hammered Grey. I then followed up with Rustoleum Crystal Clear.

Sadly, that's not a lighting difference. That's a result of poor lighting conditions during painting (i.e. bad paint job). Ugh.

I'm going with a wire wheel on one side, so when I put the wire wheel on I'll respray that side and re-clear it.

 

[greg86z28]

Looks great! Assuming it is the lighting that gives the two photos a different cast. What paint/colors did you use?

I started with a Rustoleum primer. Then it's colored with Rustoleum Satin Nickel and Rustoleum Hammered Grey. I then followed up with Rustoleum Crystal Clear.

Sadly, that's not a lighting difference. That's a result of poor lighting conditions during painting (i.e. bad paint job). Ugh.

I'm going with a wire wheel on one side, so when I put the wire wheel on I think I'll respray that side and re-clear it.

 

[Enigma]

here are my two. not sure which to keep. kinda wish i had a guard for the other side on the older one. they both work fine.

couldnt i do the same things with my cman 100 15" drill press? with dp have speed control from 175rpm to 10000 plus. do i even need a grinder now? there are shanked stones and wire wheels available for dp. would that work just as well or better?

 

[LesserSon]

Nice to have a pair of 1/2hps.
“As good or better” for WHAT PURPOSE? What are you grinding, does it need a tool rest?
Depending on what drill press you mean, the chuck and spindle may be designed to handle some lateral thrust. But generally, a DP is intended for boring, not milling. The ones with the 34-33C chuck (which screws on so it doesn’t suddenly fly off under lateral load) are intended for woodworking, allowing you to do some drum sanding or use wide-cutting bits, but I would keep the grinder for grinding.
I’m not an expert - just my 2 cents. I think it may come down more to safety, than capability.

 

[LesserSon]

I took a closer picture of the cracked and corroded leads I’m fretting over on my 1/4hp. I don’t see a way to replace the leads without also removing the winding. The corrosion and brittleness makes me think the leads could break off too close to the windings to allow a soldered repair.
This is not my area of knowledge, so I’m asking before attempting anything, but I wonder : if I remove the insullation, clean as much corrosion off as possible, might I splice on extensions to the leads, maybe put some heat-shrink insulation snugged up to the wrappings? As good as can be hoped, or is there a better way?
And WHAT caused the corrosion in the first place? The rest of it is clean. Could the PO’s addition of a ground have done it? Could maybe the hot and neutral hookups have been reversed, and then the addition of a ground cause a current leak?

 

[tym]

This is not my area of knowledge, so I’m asking before attempting anything, but I wonder : if I remove the insullation, clean as much corrosion off as possible, might I splice on extensions to the leads, maybe put some heat-shrink insulation snugged up to the wrappings? As good as can be hoped, or is there a better way?

That's what I'd do.

And WHAT caused the corrosion in the first place? The rest of it is clean. Could the PO’s addition of a ground have done it? Could maybe the hot and neutral hookups have been reversed, and then the addition of a ground cause a current leak?

I think there were two contributors: moisture and dried/brittle insulation. 50 years is a long time.

 

[XJSuperman]

A gift from an uncle. It's the smoothest running grinder I have ever seen.

 

[Asport]

Here's my modified common 1/3 HP 397.19580

I made an adapter plate to fit a side table from a Baldor 6" Carbide grinder that I snagged for cheap. I wanted the side table to grind HSS lathe bits. It works out great for that!

-Roger

 

[Rabid Badger]

Here's my modified common 1/3 HP 397.19580

I made an adapter plate to fit a side table from a Baldor 6" Carbide grinder that I snagged for cheap. I wanted the side table to grind HSS lathe bits. It works out great for that!

-Roger

Can you post some pictures of the adapter plate? I've been thinking about doing something similar.

 

[MissileBear]

They did make a few different models that had a table on the side...most were rebranded models made for other companies, meant as sharpening grinders.

 

[Asport]

Can you post some pictures of the adapter plate? I've been thinking about doing something similar.

I'll see if I have time over the weekend to pull it apart and take pics.

They did make a few different models that had a table on the side...most were rebranded models made for other companies, meant as sharpening grinders.

Thanks for sharing. I never seen one like that. I like having the miter slot on mine.

 

[torqueman2002]

Uggh...
So anyone else bust the plastic lamp visor / heat-shield before realizing how it’s attached?
My item has a Sep 26 1974A birthday. Black plastic - ABS? Anyone know for sure?
Any repair ideas? I’m sure JB Weld will hold at room temperature and stand up to the heat, too. But I hear ABS expands way more than JB Weld as the temp climbs, so it might fail that way. ....

I have the same failure on the lamp shade cover on a 1/2-HP Block.

I decided to give J-B Quick Weld Steel a go. I'll put it on my most used Block to test it's bonding ability for this application.

Looks like I didn't use enough epoxy, or it shrunk. ^^

First coats with what I had hanging around. Outside temps this time of year are hovering around the low 50s. Not ideal, but subsequent coats gave a nicer finish.

I'll give it a few days inside the house to harden, before putting it to 'work'.

 

[chrisnazzy]

They did make a few different models that had a table on the side...most were rebranded models made for other companies, meant as sharpening grinders.

I thought that was the disc sanding attachment that was available as an add on. I've been looking for one for awhile with no luck.

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[larry4406]

Can you post some pictures of the adapter plate? I've been thinking about doing something similar.

Agreed. More details please.

 

[MissileBear]

I thought that was the disc sanding attachment that was available as an add on. I've been looking for one for awhile with no luck.

There were both....397.19395 came with the sander disc as part of the stock config. I believe there were 2 other models that also had it...not 100%

 

[EOC_Jason]

If the outer coating just flakes off, maybe clean it off as well as you can carefully. Spray some corrosion inhibitor (like you use for your car battery), then use some heat-shrink tubing over it. Unless it breaks as it goes into whatever that is, then you will have a real fun time...

It's corroded just probably from the moisture in the air, and I'm sure that paper type insulation also helped wick in more moisture.

This is not my area of knowledge, so I’m asking before attempting anything, but I wonder : if I remove the insullation, clean as much corrosion off as possible, might I splice on extensions to the leads, maybe put some heat-shrink insulation snugged up to the wrappings? As good as can be hoped, or is there a better way?
And WHAT caused the corrosion in the first place? The rest of it is clean. Could the PO’s addition of a ground have done it? Could maybe the hot and neutral hookups have been reversed, and then the addition of a ground cause a current leak?

 

[Outlawmws]

I took a closer picture of the cracked and corroded leads I’m fretting over on my 1/4hp. I don’t see a way to replace the leads without also removing the winding. The corrosion and brittleness makes me think the leads could break off too close to the windings to allow a soldered repair.
This is not my area of knowledge, so I’m asking before attempting anything, but I wonder : if I remove the insullation, clean as much corrosion off as possible, might I splice on extensions to the leads, maybe put some heat-shrink insulation snugged up to the wrappings? As good as can be hoped, or is there a better way?
And WHAT caused the corrosion in the first place? The rest of it is clean. Could the PO’s addition of a ground have done it? Could maybe the hot and neutral hookups have been reversed, and then the addition of a ground cause a current leak?

That's what I'd do.
I think there were two contributors: moisture and dried/brittle insulation. 50 years is a long time.

LS your approach should work. you can leave enough of the old lead to re-connect, use new wire with new insulation; but I'd add one more thing before the shrink tube - they use varnish to insulate the windings: soak in several coats of varnish at the junction (or possibly liquid tape/insulator, but I have less faith in that stuff), and then do the shrink tubing. you should be good to go.

 

[Rabid Badger]

I'll see if I have time over the weekend to pull it apart and take pics.

No need to take it apart, I see how you did it now.

 

[LesserSon]

LS your approach should work. you can leave enough of the old lead to re-connect, use new wire with new insulation; but I'd add one more thing before the shrink tube - they use varnish to insulate the windings: soak in several coats of varnish at the junction (or possibly liquid tape/insulator, but I have less faith in that stuff), and then do the shrink tubing. you should be good to go.

(And really, to ALL WHO RESPONDED) Thanks for the suggestions and observations. Couple follow-ups:

“Varnish”=polyurethane or shellac? I have either of those, but not old-school oil varnish from the pre-poly days.
“Junction”=where I splice new wire, or down into where the old wire disappears into the sleave and windings?

 

[Outlawmws]

(And really, to ALL WHO RESPONDED) Thanks for the suggestions and observations. Couple follow-ups:

“Varnish”=polyurethane or shellac? I have either of those, but not old-school oil varnish from the pre-poly days.
“Junction”=where I splice new wire, or down into where the old wire disappears into the sleave and windings?

From Wikipeadia:

Although described as "enameled", enameled wire is not, in fact, coated with either a layer of enamel paint nor with vitreous enamel made of fused glass powder. Modern magnet wire typically uses one to four layers (in the case of quad-film type wire) of polymer film insulation, often of two different compositions, to provide a tough, continuous insulating layer. Magnet wire insulating films use (in order of increasing temperature range) polyvinyl formal (Formvar), polyurethane, polyamide, polyester, polyester-polyimide, polyamide-polyimide (or amide-imide), and polyimide.[3] Polyimide insulated magnet wire is capable of operation at up to 250 °C. The insulation of thicker square or rectangular magnet wire is often augmented by wrapping it with a high-temperature polyimide or fiberglass tape, and completed windings are often vacuum impregnated with an insulating varnish to improve insulation strength and long-term reliability of the winding.

So fir your purpose, I'd sat you can use polyurithare, since its not really doing more than preventing chafing.

"Junction" = Yes - Clarified - "where I splice new wire close down into where the old wire disappears into the sleave and windings."

I once reconnected a blown winding wire on a Taiwan made grinder, and insulated the splice with my then girlfriend's (Now SWMBO) nail polish. Lasted about 20 years or so until something else blew... Since yours will see more flex in vibration I would not use nail polish - too brittle.

 

[BRWEIDEM]

Picked up this combo for $80 today. Not a home run but my first stand and third block grinder. Was considering selling the grinder but now I might restore it. Been A while since I posted here, I’m going to have to catch up on all the Resto methods for these grinders...

 

[Asport]

Agreed. More details please.

Here you go.

 

[Rabid Badger]

Here you go.

That is some nice work. I like how you machined in registers where the Craftsman and Baldor parts meet the adapter rather than just drilling some holes in a round plate.

 

[larry4406]

Here you go.

Thank you.

Can you also show some picture (top, bottom, etc) of the table?

Edit - Found this link with some very clear pictures of the table:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BALDOR-TOO...vip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m43663.l10137
https://picclick.com/BALDOR-TOOL-TABLE-For-6-CARBIDE-GRINDER-202464465874.html#&gid=1&pid=6

 

[Asport]

That is some nice work. I like how you machined in registers where the Craftsman and Baldor parts meet the adapter rather than just drilling some holes in a round plate.

Thanks!

Thank you.

Can you also show some picture (top, bottom, etc) of the table?

Edit - Found this link with some very clear pictures of the table:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BALDOR-TOO...vip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m43663.l10137
https://picclick.com/BALDOR-TOOL-TABLE-For-6-CARBIDE-GRINDER-202464465874.html#&gid=1&pid=6

That's exactly the same as mine.

 

[larry4406]

Thanks!


That's exactly the same as mine.

Can you post a frontal view below the table showing the pivot and locking pins?

 

[Asport]

Can you post a frontal view below the table showing the pivot and locking pins?

Sure, I'll take a few tonight.

 

[Asport]

Can you post a frontal view below the table showing the pivot and locking pins?

Here's a few pics below the table. It pivots on two raised posts.

 

[larry4406]

Here's a few pics below the table. It pivots on two raised posts.

Thank you!

 

[bubinga]

Here's a few pics below the table. It pivots on two raised posts.

Nice Job I'm looking For one of those tables as well.

 

[hemifalcon]

Let me begin this post by apologizing as I know the pictures that follow are not a block grinder.. (forgive me GJFather as I’m about to sin...)

But—all you grinder whores, myself included, can you give some info on the age of this Craftsman grinder? I believe it’ll take an 8” wheel.. I first thought it was a belt-driven unit based on its age and condition—but it is a heavy duty grinder pre-block or mailbox design.. the current owner is interested in selling it-but it was missing the right side guard-and he was confident about having it and agreed to call me when he finds it.. any generous info would be much appreciated. (I apologize for the picture quality-almost zero lighting in the building...)










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[MissileBear]

Here ya go

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=32103