MissileBear
Well-known member
Nope, those are blocks. Pre-blocks are cast iron bodies....blocks have cast aluminum bodies (both round top and flat top styles).
let's see your craftsman block grinders
- Thread starter emeraldcoupe
- Start date
Nope, those are blocks. Pre-blocks are cast iron bodies....blocks have cast aluminum bodies (both round top and flat top styles).
bubinga
Well-known member
Yeah, Looks Good Too!
Thanks,
The pre-blocks are good too though; Right?
MissileBear
Well-known member
They aren't bad....but not the same internally. Torqueman details the differences pretty well in his thread.
I also have some pics of the internals on my Pre-Block thread:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=339921&highlight=pre+block+love
bubinga
Well-known member
OH Ok Thanks Guys, I will look into it.
missile: So are pre-blocks inferior to blocks? If so, in what way? I thought I'd read the thread on preblocks and came away with the impression that electrically they were at least as good. Obviously they are heavier too.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
There is nothing wrong with the pre blocks other than they are scarce/hard to find. Real good grinders.
If anyone's interested, I just posted a standalone thread of a video I made, restoring a 1970s block grinder:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7635933
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7635933
MissileBear
Well-known member
No, not inferior, just a different, older design. They were limited in the HP rating and size. I believe pre-blocks only went up to 1/3 HP in a 6" disc....the blocks were made up to 1 HP and 8" disc. The pre-blocks are still excellent grinders with a lot of power.
I really like my 1/4 HP pre-block...I prefer the cast iron over aluminum personally.
My 1/3 hp Pre-Block is 7-inch, and they go up to at least 1/2 hp. Those are honest horsepower ratings, not like the later Block ratings where a 1 hp model draws roughly the same current as a 3/4 hp model (or 3/4 hp actually draws less than some 1/2 hp models).
MissileBear
Well-known member
What is the model number of the 1/2 HP pre-block? And I typo'd that...I meant to write 1/2 HP not 1/3 HP. I was looking at the pics of your 1/2 HP yesterday
I was not aware that the 1/3 pre-block came in a 7" disc, however. I thought they were only 6" until the (regular) block 1/2 HP Commercial/Industrial Rated units came out.
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What is the model number of the 1/2 HP pre-block? And I typo'd that...I meant to write 1/2 HP not 1/3 HP. I was looking at the pics of your 1/2 HP yesterday
I was not aware that the 1/3 pre-block came in a 7" disc, however. I thought they were only 6" until the (regular) block 1/2 HP Commercial/Industrial Rated units came out.
My 1/2 hp block is neither commercial or industrial rated yet it has 7" wheels.
Hmmm, so many "varieties".
115.7575
87quest
Well-known member
Got to use mine today! And have one that I accidentally damaged the start windings, but with a little help it starts, so putting some nylox type wheel me on it.
quest
quest
What could this be? A NIB block grinder! 1/2hp 7” commercial
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
Sweet!
What's the back story? Craigs List, estate sale, gift, .... ?
Old man’s basement clean out. I walked out with lots of good stuff. A lot of new items in the boxes and few receipts to match. But yes, Craigslist add.
Serious score, more pics when you get it set up, please. And maybe a video of it in action?
I’m not the kind of guy to get it dirty right away. So it is still in the box at the moment. I’m also thinking of listing it for sale possibly to get into another pre-block grinder. I have a 1/4 hp pre-block already. I also have another 1/4 hp block grinder in rough condition with a stand, but it runs fine.
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Just picked up this Model# 397 19580 grinder for $40. It has the glass eye shields and it seems to be in nice shape and runs nice, just needs a clean. Does anyone know around what year it was made?
What are the best wire wheels and buffing wheels to use on it...I'll be using it to clean up old rusty tools. What's the best way to clean it up? I don't want to damage the finish.
What are the best wire wheels and buffing wheels to use on it...I'll be using it to clean up old rusty tools. What's the best way to clean it up? I don't want to damage the finish.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Check the bottom plate. They are often ink stamped with a date.
Couldn't seem to find one. Unless the plate was reveresed during a strip down/rebuild
Outlawmws
Well-known member
The stamp has been known to be in the inside face of the plate.
lafester
Well-known member
My guess is mid 70s. Simple green works good for clean up.
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Mine is stamped on the inside as well, I have the same one as the OP, 1/3rd HP, made in 1972 in my case.
Bill C
Well-known member
Finally picked up my first block grinder yesterday!!!
Backstory:
I have been casually shopping local CL for a good deal for the last 2yrs, but unfortunately people in the Portland area are typically asking top $. About a year ago I had arranged to pickup a 3/4HP Block Grinder w/ original pedestal stand, eye shields, etc for $55
but the guy "ghosted" me before I could get the address. A real shame because I was literally ready to hop in the car as he was less than 20min drive from me. After that HUGE let down I gave up looking for a while because I was bitter.
Fast Forward to today:
Found a nice looking 1/2HP Commercial Round Top on CL yesterday that had only been posted for about an hour and the price was fair @ $45. Called right away and luckily it was still available. I snuck away from work and drove straight over as I have missed out on plenty of stuff when I was unable to pick 'em up straight away. It looked good in person and was only missing the quench tray. I felt bad even negotiating because the price was already very good... but I took it home for $40.
Anyway, here are the details & pics:
All the wiring and components look good upon inspection. The cord is in great shape. It runs quiet and smooth but the wire wheel does seem to rub the shroud a little bit. Not sure if I care to track down an original quench tray or even buy the replacement c-man plastic version they sell.
The only real issue is the Leviton bulb socket switch is pretty flakey. The mechanism seems pretty worn and one has to carefully rotate the paddle switch to the "just right" position to keep the light lit.
Anybody have a good source for replacement Leviton bakelite lamp sockets? I wonder if I can pull the good condition "paddle" switch off of this one and thread it onto a new 1-way lamp socket.
Backstory:
I have been casually shopping local CL for a good deal for the last 2yrs, but unfortunately people in the Portland area are typically asking top $. About a year ago I had arranged to pickup a 3/4HP Block Grinder w/ original pedestal stand, eye shields, etc for $55
but the guy "ghosted" me before I could get the address. A real shame because I was literally ready to hop in the car as he was less than 20min drive from me. After that HUGE let down I gave up looking for a while because I was bitter.Fast Forward to today:
Found a nice looking 1/2HP Commercial Round Top on CL yesterday that had only been posted for about an hour and the price was fair @ $45. Called right away and luckily it was still available. I snuck away from work and drove straight over as I have missed out on plenty of stuff when I was unable to pick 'em up straight away. It looked good in person and was only missing the quench tray. I felt bad even negotiating because the price was already very good... but I took it home for $40.
Anyway, here are the details & pics:
- Type: 1/2 HP Craftsman Commercial
- Model#: 397.19591
- Manuf. Date: Dec. 13th, 1973
All the wiring and components look good upon inspection. The cord is in great shape. It runs quiet and smooth but the wire wheel does seem to rub the shroud a little bit. Not sure if I care to track down an original quench tray or even buy the replacement c-man plastic version they sell.
The only real issue is the Leviton bulb socket switch is pretty flakey. The mechanism seems pretty worn and one has to carefully rotate the paddle switch to the "just right" position to keep the light lit.
Anybody have a good source for replacement Leviton bakelite lamp sockets? I wonder if I can pull the good condition "paddle" switch off of this one and thread it onto a new 1-way lamp socket.
Bill C
Well-known member
Following up on this question... we happen to have a very cool local hardware store here in Portland, OR called Hippo Hardware (https://www.hippohardware.com). I popped into their warehouse on my lunch break today and showed them my failing Leviton bakelite lamp socket. The super knowledgeable lighting expert had seen tons of Leviton bakelite paddle switch sockets but only a few w/ the unique shaped paddle as on these Craftsman grinders. He dug through boxes/drawers/bins etc for a good 30mins while I browsed the store. He returned and handed me a perfect functioning identical replacement. AMAZING.. only $4.
Some words of advice for those browsing eBay for a replacement that I learned today:
1) The bakelite "paddles" are molded onto the switch shaft, so you cannot simply unthread them and put them on a modern bulb holder.
2) This particular Leviton paddle style bulb holder used on these block grinders is uncommon. This paddle style was more commonly found on something called "Fat Boy" lamp holders... but very rarely on the smaller body. And the guts of a "Fat Boy" will not fit in the smaller shells.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Any chance they have any more? Mine is also finicky.
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bubinga
Well-known member
Following up on this question... we happen to have a very cool local hardware store here in Portland, OR called Hippo Hardware (https://www.hippohardware.com). I popped into their warehouse on my lunch break today and showed them my failing Leviton bakelite lamp socket. The super knowledgeable lighting expert had seen tons of Leviton bakelite paddle switch sockets but only a few w/ the unique shaped paddle as on these Craftsman grinders. He dug through boxes/drawers/bins etc for a good 30mins while I browsed the store. He returned and handed me a perfect functioning identical replacement. AMAZING.. only $4.
Some words of advice for those browsing eBay for a replacement that I learned today:
1) The bakelite "paddles" are molded onto the switch shaft, so you cannot simply unthread them and put them on a modern bulb holder.
2) This particular Leviton paddle style bulb holder used on these block grinders is uncommon. This paddle style was more commonly found on something called "Fat Boy" lamp holders... but very rarely on the smaller body. And the guts of a "Fat Boy" will not fit in the smaller shells.
geez, what service, some guys would just sat "No" right away, can't be bothered. Little bit of service on a small ticket item could possibility lead to a Big ticket word o mouth account for them!
Mr. Wonderful
Well-known member
I have a quick question on the block grinders. I have a friend with both a 397.19441 and a 397.19440. Both seem to be 1/2hp 7" grinders. The 441 is black and the 440 is gray. I cant tell any difference. I have the opportunity to buy one. All other things being equal is one better than the other????
Also both are complete with all of the tool rests, eye shields, and lamps.
Also both are complete with all of the tool rests, eye shields, and lamps.
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Stripped down my 397. I was gonna repaint it, but it's in real good shape, so just taking it apart and cleaning it up with Simple Green.
Are these the original wheels that came with it? The grinder looks barely used, so i'm guessing so. I did the ring test, and they seem fine.
Are these the original wheels that came with it? The grinder looks barely used, so i'm guessing so. I did the ring test, and they seem fine.
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lafester
Well-known member
bubinga
Well-known member
Somebody needs to go get this in the Pittsburgh area.
My car is still "down", or I'd be all over it.
OEM Craftsman Stand, and Block grinder, L0L $25.00!!!!
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1834475729995681
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/49343082_129040114792811_2113461326557741056_n.jpg?_nc_cat=105&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-2.**&oh=7b76f10e6ce645db15ad03fd729ed121&oe=5CC0914B
My car is still "down", or I'd be all over it.
OEM Craftsman Stand, and Block grinder, L0L $25.00!!!!
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1834475729995681
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/49343082_129040114792811_2113461326557741056_n.jpg?_nc_cat=105&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-2.**&oh=7b76f10e6ce645db15ad03fd729ed121&oe=5CC0914B
bubinga
Well-known member
I know what *You* mean, But If I didn't Know better, (I didn't) That looks great as it is.
There are as you probably know, some, somewhat Retro looking screw on switches, On e bay.
Pretty small picture, but all I could find.
EDIT, Added Link,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRASS-ANTI...=item1cc32f5df8:g:6XkAAOSwiSVb~wl~:rk:18:pf:0
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Bill C
Well-known member
Given how hard the guy had to look, probably unlikely. The failure on these Bakelite Leviton switches in the Bakelite cam that opens and closes the contacts. It rounds off or breaks causing a finicky “on” position. Apparently the later style designs are improved.
At least it’s screw-on. You can replace the round knob with any style you want.Damn I've been looking for one of those!
I have a crappy common light switch on mine. Mine takes a screw on paddle though.
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I agree. It’s a great shop that sells exclusively vintage home hardware.geez, what service, some guys would just sat "No" right away, can't be bothered. Little bit of service on a small ticket item could possibility lead to a Big ticket word o mouth account for them!
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
STOP torturing me!
torqueman2002
Well-known member
I looked at my list of Blocks. The difference I can see, is that model 397.19440 is dual-voltage and somewhat more desirable.
397.19440
397.19441
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lafester
Well-known member
Had anyone run one of these on 220?
Have yet to see one actually wired that way.
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Have yet to see one actually wired that way.
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
I do have a 1 HP that the PO had wired up for 220VAC, he cobbled up an extension cord to run it, just to show it did run.
I've yet to run it at home.
I can't say for sure what difference there is, if any. I was pre-occupied with staying out of the way of a mean looking chicken!
