damon18
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks for the input everyone, I'll probably pass, and look for one at least not missing major parts.
As noted by Exmaxima1, amp rating is key and his recommendation of >6 is a good starting point. I would recommend a commercial/cap start 3/4 or 1 HP.
I have a belt/disc sander kit on an early '70s 3/4 HP commercial block and it works great.
Is your 3/4hp a Roundtop model? If so, I have the same one (with the cast iron deluxe base) and it's less than 6 amps. Still, plenty of power for most applications.
No... you are thinking about the 1/2 hp roundtop setup I picked up down in your area and you hooked me up with a tool rest. Ironically enough, the one with the belt sander is a 3/4 hp (397.19450) and has a lower amp rating than the 1/2hp roundtop (6 vs 7). Still debating if I should swap the sander setup to my 1hp block since bigger is supposed to be better![]()
No... you are thinking about the 1/2 hp roundtop setup I picked up down in your area and you hooked me up with a tool rest. Ironically enough, the one with the belt sander is a 3/4 hp (397.19450) and has a lower amp rating than the 1/2hp roundtop (6 vs 7). Still debating if I should swap the sander setup to my 1hp block since bigger is supposed to be better![]()
Well, I may be confusing the definition of a round top. The 7 amp 1/2 hp is from the mid ‘50s, so pre-block is probably the right category. For my own benefit, what date range/style is considered a round top?
I like that! I've now done 4 back to their original glory. I think I'm going to spread my wings a bit on the next one and get a bit creative.
That is the 1st Block grinder I have seen without a switch.Just wondering why this grinder that I picked up last week wasn't equipped with a switch.
I bought it from the state surplus warehouse for $30 and after replacing its damaged cord and a bit of cleaning, it works great.
That is a great find.This is listed on MarketPlace in Little Egg Harbor, NJ. Way out of reach for me (damn!). 100 bucks and looks to be complete. Hope it goes to somebody in here!
When I see an out of town deal like that, my mind starts searching for family and friends in the area who'd be willing to buy and hold it for me.It is. If that thing weren't 7 hours away from me it'd already be in my shop.

OK maxima, we (I) voted and it is your duty as a Blockhead to rescue that pre-Block before it falls into the hands of a non-believer!Too bad that one needs so much TLC. Lake Geneva is just 30 mins up the road from my work, but I don't need another full restoration project. I hope somebody gets it and brings it back to life.
OK maxima, we (I) voted and it is your duty as a Blockhead to rescue that pre-Block before it falls into the hands of a non-believer!
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I appreciate the encouragement, but I need to get my garage cleaned up for the upcoming winter so I can keep my cars indoors. I still have a vintage Delta 14 BS in pieces, not to mention a 3/4hp roundtop block on my bench that's still waiting for parts. That pre-block will takes hours of cleaning, wire-brushing, painting, new bearings, etc. The wires and/or the capacitor & centrifugal switch will be rusted or rotting away, which is never fun. We need to some young talent getting involved on projects like that, and (arguably) I already have my fair share of grinders.
I'll bet Vertguy is already on the road for it.[emoji106]
Excellent, she went to someone who will pamper her and take her on trips.![]()
Yessir.. hard working old ladies are the best-gotta treat ‘em right! [emoji41]
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Perfect! I did not "need" another one and glad it went to another GJ blockhead![]()
Awesome! Sure wish I could find one within reach.
OK guys. 'didn’t need....'
Need has nothing to do with it.
Blockheads are driven to rescue even the poorest Block/pre-Block.
My rescue efforts have been on hold since my daughter brought home a crusty 2004 Yukon Denali. It's been 2 steps forward, 1 step backwards -- when I'm lucky.
I'll get back to doing my Block rescue part, just in time for rainy fall weather.
BTW - there are some great Blocks being posted lately!

That's a joke, right?
No, long spool down means dry bearings. Fresh bearings rarely spin more than a minute when powering down. Bearings are cheap and easy to replace, so not really an issue. But if you go too long on dry bearings you risk seizing the bearings and ruining the arbor shaft.