let's see your craftsman block grinders

[zippi]

I've had my bench grinder for many years. It was passed down from my older brother to me and he got it from my dad. Looks like the model number may be 397.19350. I'm trying to find a 7" wire wheel for one side but the 1/2" size arbor is a little rare it looks like.

 

[exmaxima1]

7-inch wire wheels are indeed rare, but virtually all wheels come with bushings to accommodate 1/2" arbors.

 

[zippi]

7-inch wire wheels are indeed rare, but virtually all wheels come with bushings to accommodate 1/2" arbors.

I have noticed that there seems to be plastic adaptors for different size arbors. First time I've had one of the wheels off. Didn't realize one side was left hand threads and the other side was right hand treads. What is the best way to tighten up one side?

 

[lafester]

Medium and coarse 7" wheels are not hard to find, it's the soft ones that are almost impossible. MSC is the only place I could find that carries one.

I use an impact wrench to tighten up the nuts, just go easy on it.

 

[torqueman2002]

Happy New Year, fellow Blockheads!



BTW - I was just watching an episode of Youtube - KSR PERFORMANCE & FABRICATION: Why is our racecar named SoccerMom????

When I spotted a round top Block (~22:41)

 

[Old Radar]

I've had my bench grinder for many years. It was passed down from my older brother to me and he got it from my dad. Looks like the model number may be 397.19350. I'm trying to find a 7" wire wheel for one side but the 1/2" size arbor is a little rare it looks like.

3/4 HP with a 1/2" arbor? I thought they came with a 5/8" arbor and use an 8x1" wheel. Measure twice, buy once.

 

[exmaxima1]

3/4 HP with a 1/2" arbor? I thought they came with a 5/8" arbor and use an 8x1" wheel. Measure twice, buy once.

I have a similar model CM block, and although I no longer recall the original wheel diameter I can confirm it is 1/2" arbor. (Sorry about the bad pics---it's New Years morning!)

 

[Old Radar]

My bad, then. I looked in the '75-'76 CM catalog and the 3/4hp had a 5/8 arbor--although it was a CM Commercial. My '59 1/2 hp Pre-Block has a 5/8 while my '72 1/2 hp CM Commercial Round Top has a 1/2 arbor. I guess they stepped down the diameter even further in later models.

 

[exmaxima1]

My bad, then. I looked in the '75-'76 CM catalog and the 3/4hp had a 5/8 arbor--although it was a CM Commercial. My '59 1/2 hp Pre-Block has a 5/8 while my '72 1/2 hp CM Commercial Round Top has a 1/2 arbor. I guess they stepped down the diameter even further in later models.

It certainly helps keep the flanges running true

 

[torqueman2002]

This might help, while not complete, it has some info on the 3/4-HP Blocks.

 

[Chadwilliam1]

I hate to admit this but when I finally got around to putting together my bench grinder model 397 19340 I broke some wires on the stator. I took it to a local motor repair shop and they said it would be at least 300 to rewind it.

Does anybody have any good solutions for me? Anybody selling a stator?

Thanks

 

[FrankLee]

I hate to admit this but when I finally got around to putting together my bench grinder model 397 19340 I broke some wires on the stator. I took it to a local motor repair shop and they said it would be at least 300 to rewind it.

Does anybody have any good solutions for me? Anybody selling a stator?

Thanks

Close, but nope.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8595714

 

[lafester]

Anyone know if a round top stator will fit in a flat top frame?

 

[Old Radar]

I hate to admit this but when I finally got around to putting together my bench grinder model 397 19340 I broke some wires on the stator. I took it to a local motor repair shop and they said it would be at least 300 to rewind it.

Does anybody have any good solutions for me? Anybody selling a stator?

Thanks

Find a Pre-Block for $25 and chalk it up to experience.

Here's the difference in windings between a Pre-Block and a Block. lafester isn't this your picture?

 

[Outlawmws]

Chad, WHERE did the wire(s) break? Many have soldered new wire on the winding ends.

 

[lafester]

Find a Pre-Block for $25 and chalk it up to experience.

Here's the difference in windings between a Pre-Block and a Block. lafester isn't this your picture?

Sure is. The block stator is what I have extra...
I wasn't asking about pre blocks.

I think they are the same but I have not measured.

 

[Old Radar]

I wasn't asking about pre blocks.

Understood. I was telling Chadwilliam1 to ditch the Block and find a better, more powerful Pre-Block for much less than the repair on his Block.

 

[lafester]

Understood. I was telling Chadwilliam1 to ditch the Block and find a better, more powerful Pre-Block for much less than the repair on his Block.

Gotcha

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[Chadwilliam1]

Close, but nope.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8595714

That grinder on the left in the picture looks exactly like mine. How can I tell if the stator will work on mine?

 

[Chadwilliam1]

Chad, WHERE did the wire(s) break? Many have soldered new wire on the winding ends.

They are too short to be repaired. I first took it into work and had the electricians look at it. They deal with a lot of electric motors at work they said the wires were to short to be fixed so they sent me to a motor repair shop.

 

[Chadwilliam1]

Find a Pre-Block for $25 and chalk it up to experience.

Here's the difference in windings between a Pre-Block and a Block. lafester isn't this your picture?

Ill be happy with anything that works

 

[lafester]

Ill be happy with anything that works

Measure the middle part of your stator and tell me how wide it is.


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[Chadwilliam1]

Measure the middle part of your stator and tell me how wide it is.


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2.7 Id

The outaide of the housing is 5.3x4.8
Mounting holes are 3.7 center to center. All of that is in inches of course.

Thank you

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[Deker]

This grinder has come up for sale near me. Seller is asking $150. What's a fair price for something like this?

 

[Outlawmws]

It depends, has the seller lost the rest, side guard and eye shield for the right side?

It does have the stand, light and quench tray, and is 3/4 HP...

 

[Deker]

It depends, has the seller lost the rest, side guard and eye shield for the right side?

It does have the stand, light and quench tray, and is 3/4 HP...

The seller may have the side guard and eye shield, he's going to check. I'll negotiate what I can, but if he has them is that a decent unit for the price? Don't yet have a grinder...

 

[lafester]

With the stand it is a fair price if he can find the parts.

 

[torqueman2002]

This grinder has come up for sale near me. Seller is asking $150. What's a fair price for something like this?

I'd snap it up. Offer $115.

The stand is worth $70 - $80 to me and the 3/4-HP between $45 - $60.

As Outlaw says, it needs tool rest, side guard and eye shield. Plus the spark arrester.

But I have spare parts for just such a project.

 

[exmaxima1]

2.7 Id

The outaide of the housing is 5.3x4.8
Mounting holes are 3.7 center to center. All of that is in inches of course.....

It does not look like you correctly measured the ID of the stator laminations. You seem to have measured the coils. Another key dimension is the THICKNESS of the lamination stack. It is different for each horsepower model, as well as the associated housing ends. The housings are essentially machined differently to accommodate the various stack thicknesses.

 

[Deker]

Thanks for the feedback. Seller couldn't find the parts but agreed to $115. Picking it up tomorrow.

I'd snap it up. Offer $115.

The stand is worth $70 - $80 to me and the 3/4-HP between $45 - $60.

As Outlaw says, it needs tool rest, side guard and eye shield. Plus the spark arrester.

But I have spare parts for just such a project.

Great! I'll PM you after I pick it up.

 

[NYCone]

I really like the vintage Craftsman grinders. Nothing like them.

 

[imgn tht]

I inherited this model from a family friend years ago and I'm finally going to set some time aside to restore it. From what I can tell from the part number it is a 1955/1956 Craftsman 1/4 hp. Part number 115.19500, Mfrs number S-7561. Only thing missing is the right side tool rest. I've actually used it a few time for small stuff and it runs excellent. The cord need to be updated to one that is grounded and its chafed anyway.

I know nothing about these, and can only presume this is the original color. Some surface rust is present and it is dirty from years of use/sitting. I wiped it down to get some heavy grime off already.

Have yet to read all 100's of pages in this thread, so I'm sure I can go back and get some guidance on what to watch out for when tearing it down and restoring.

Right now the plan is to keep it and make use of it. But does anyone know the value of these and if they are better left original or restored?

 

[exmaxima1]

Your grinder is an earlier "Pre-Block" model. You might want to check out the thread I started for those grinders:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=339921&highlight=pre+block+love

 

[cmccuist1]

This grinder has come up for sale near me. Seller is asking $150. What's a fair price for something like this?

I bought a 3/4hp recently for $75 that was 100% complete - eye shields, quench tray, stand, tool rests etc. If you're going to resell it, all that matters.

If you're going to use it for your personal grinder, i wouldn't worry about the tool rests or eye shields. You can fabricate some "better than stock" tool rests and I don't even use the eye shields. Just safety glasses. The cover on the right side is important though unless you're leaving that wire wheel on there.

 

[Chadwilliam1]

It does not look like you correctly measured the ID of the stator laminations. You seem to have measured the coils. Another key dimension is the THICKNESS of the lamination stack. It is different for each horsepower model, as well as the associated housing ends. The housings are essentially machined differently to accommodate the various stack thicknesses.

Ahh I see thank you.
The is of the stator laminationsis 2.643 and the thickness of the lamination stack is 1.445
Thank you.

Ill post pictures below

 

[Chadwilliam1]

Hope I did it right this time.

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[LesserSon]

Yesterday, I wirewheeled the rust off my recently-acquired Craftsman grinder stand, and gave it a coat of 2X charcoal gray satin. Not quite as dark as original, but okay.
Reassembling, I’m wondering what - if anything - others have done to shim the tube in the two cast collars? There was enough play in the stand to flop a bit when I got it, and I’m skeptical about the wisdom of overtorquing the setscrews to compensate, as it would seem to focus a lot of stress on the castings.
I did a few searches on the thread, but did not see anyone address this. Is there a schematic or assembly diagram for these stands? (besides this one) Is there anything missing? Does no-one else have this issue?
I’m thinking a curved strip of sheetmetal could shim the gap.

The pic shows a 4x6” notecard in the space, and there is still play.
Thoughts?

Also, this assembly sheet seems to discard two of the four rubber bushings. Am I seeing this right?

 

[torqueman2002]

See my replies in RED.

Yesterday, I wirewheeled the rust off my recently-acquired Craftsman grinder stand, and gave it a coat of 2X charcoal gray satin. I like that color! Not quite as dark as original, but okay.
Reassembling, I’m wondering what - if anything - others have done to shim the tube in the two cast collars? There was enough play in the stand to flop a bit when I got it, and I’m skeptical about the wisdom of overtorquing the setscrews to compensate, as it would seem to focus a lot of stress on the castings. I just do what you did and what the instructions direct, but shimming couldn't hurt.
I did a few searches on the thread, but did not see anyone address this. Is there a schematic or assembly diagram for these stands? (besides this one) Those are the same instructions I have. Is there anything missing? Does no-one else have this issue?
I’m thinking a curved strip of sheetmetal could shim the gap.

The pic shows a 4x6” notecard in the space, and there is still play.
Thoughts?

Also, this assembly sheet seems to discard two of the four rubber bushings. Am I seeing this right?

The way I mount the grinders to the CM stand is with two bolts and required washers + nuts. What I think the directions are showing is how much the rubber feet (4) should be compressed. The 2 bolt/washer/nut assemblies go between the front and rear rubber feet on each side of the grinders, except for the HD 3/4-HP grinders. IIRC, the HD bottom cooling tray/tool rest assembly have tapped holes

Top-down view of upper pedestal.
Notice the faint witness marks left by the rubber feet, above the mounting holes, and at bottom of the pedestal (very faint).

Bottom view of a 1/3-HP Block m-397.19391.
Notice there are 4 'cut outs' on each side. The upper & lower most are used for the rubber feet, 2/side. The 2 cut outs between them are used to mount the grinder to the stands upper pedestal - 1/side.

 

[lafester]

Hmmm. I measured mine a couple days ago and I think it was 1.75 inches.
I do have two of them though so I will check the other.

Hope I did it right this time.

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[LesserSon]

Yes, I see now - the bolts don’t pass through the bushings. It’s a lousy illustration - it should show the side elevation instead of on-end And the text should say “bushings” instead of “bushing.”
Thanks for clearing up my misperception, torqueman!