jeffmoss26
Well-known member
bonus doggo!!
Lets see your workbench
- Thread starter speedingpenguin
- Start date
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
HotrodHR
Well-known member
HotrodHR
Well-known member
lowside67
Well-known member
My OCD is killing me- those pictures need shifted about 8" to the left
Guys, I promise, it's straight in line!!! I even went out to the garage to double check...
-Mark
JRC3
Well-known member
But you can see the hangers. And they are spaced differently on each picture.
lowside67
Well-known member
That's because I put those hangers on the studs... and since the pictures were not centered on studs, I had to custom measure each one and do the math to correctly locate the pictures left/right. I can OCD with the best of us!!But you can see the hangers. And they are spaced differently on each picture.
-Mark
Black300zx
Well-known member
Men, on a garage forum, debating picture placement
I bet the hanger screws aren't even clocked behind those pictures. Pshh... what is this, amateur hour?
Loose Ctrl
Well-known member
Men, on a garage forum, debating picture placement
drivesitfar
Well-known member
King Nero: thanks for posting the extra picture showing me (us) your frame as you were beefing it up to put on that thick wood top. great bench!!
Skull: I agree your daughter's bench looks great. what did you (she) use for the top?
Lowside: you pics look great, but I bet a big flat screen there would be a nice upgrade. nice clean looking garage and workbench. always that clean?
Skull: I agree your daughter's bench looks great. what did you (she) use for the top?
Lowside: you pics look great, but I bet a big flat screen there would be a nice upgrade. nice clean looking garage and workbench. always that clean?
Thanks, I hope someone finds it useful for his/her workbench.
I repurposed the old yellow frame, so I was somewhat limited in size, however this being a roll-around bench for near my car lift it's just the perfect size for me. I also wanted to beefen it up first, however it is not necesssary: a transmission is the heaviest it'll ever see, and it is plenty strong for that.
pelletman
Well-known member
Men, on a garage forum, debating picture placement
The end times are here
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
I am so going to make all my stuff crooked when I post pics! And I will be sure to clock all of my hex head bolts differently too.
Black300zx
Well-known member
I am so going to make all my stuff crooked when I post pics! And I will be sure to clock all of my hex head bolts differently too.
Maybe mix phillips, straight, and hex bolts in the same bolt pattern for good measure?
Here is one of a few benches I built with a few things I think some may find helpful.
Starts off with a pretty basic 2”x2”x.120” square tube frame. For the bottom of the legs I like to use 2”x2”x3/4” squares cut from bar stock. It is easy to put them on the mill and drill and tap a 1/2”-13 threaded hole for a leveling foot.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49747490407/in/dateposted-public/" title="2"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49747490407_39ca112d06_o.jpg" width="665" height="1182" alt="2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49747161971/in/dateposted-public/" title="1"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49747161971_520554c9fe_o.jpg" width="1182" height="665" alt="1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
And from the shop off to the house to finish it.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49747490802/in/dateposted-public/" title="3"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49747490802_b37ac7c1f8_o.jpg" width="665" height="1182" alt="3"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Had some old expanded metal laying around so I cut it to size real quick and welded it to the bottom of the bench. I like the idea of having a bottom shelf that won't hold or trap liquids, is secure to the frame and is reasonably durable.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49747491192/in/dateposted-public/" title="4"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49747491192_51a0395277_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="4"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Then to hit it up with some brush on red oxide primer followed by a urethane fortified alkyd enamel from my favorite local paint store. I used it in my drill press restoration and found it to be easy to apply and very durable.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49746623193/in/dateposted-public/" title="5"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49746623193_d4fbb83987_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="5"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49747491357/in/dateposted-public/" title="6"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49747491357_7eff84b844_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="6"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
So how I have found I like to attach the top of workbenches and casters on plywood bottoms of rolling carts is by using elevator bolts. They spread the compressive load out over a larger area preventing tearing of the wood fibers, provides excellent clamping force and have super thin heads. I pick these up for a few pennies each at the local bulk fastener distributor. Oh and if I ever need to replace the top I can just match drill from the bottom through the metal frame into the replacement top.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49747492942/in/dateposted-public/" title="7"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49747492942_1195429174_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="7"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49747164236/in/dateposted-public/" title="8"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49747164236_2a1046ca07_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="8"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
A little impact action and the lower layer of 3/4” plywood is firmly attached to the top of the metal frame.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49746621638/in/dateposted-public/" title="9"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49746621638_f7bb94514c_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="9"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Now for the top layer of 3/4” plywood I will use some draw a grid pattern and pre-drill some holes in the sheet. I will then use some Tite-Bond 3 liberally applied to the surface, a bunch of pan head screws, and a couple clamps to keep in located in place while I screw the top layer to the lower layer. These screws are only for clamping pressure while the glue dries and will be removed later.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49746622033/in/dateposted-public/" title="11"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49746622033_d692e32922_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="11"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49746622793/in/dateposted-public/" title="10"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49746622793_e0b482c67a_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="10"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49747163441/in/dateposted-public/" title="12"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49747163441_56b0a08f35_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="12"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
And then the bench was quickly forgotten about and sent to live a less than stellar life in the corner of the garage. I'd still like to add some laminate to the top, move it down to the basement and use for other purposes. But for now it will sit here, collecting junk...
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49746622313/in/dateposted-public/" title="13"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49746622313_0539e68e10_o.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="13"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Starts off with a pretty basic 2”x2”x.120” square tube frame. For the bottom of the legs I like to use 2”x2”x3/4” squares cut from bar stock. It is easy to put them on the mill and drill and tap a 1/2”-13 threaded hole for a leveling foot.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49747490407/in/dateposted-public/" title="2"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49747490407_39ca112d06_o.jpg" width="665" height="1182" alt="2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49747161971/in/dateposted-public/" title="1"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49747161971_520554c9fe_o.jpg" width="1182" height="665" alt="1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
And from the shop off to the house to finish it.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49747490802/in/dateposted-public/" title="3"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49747490802_b37ac7c1f8_o.jpg" width="665" height="1182" alt="3"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Had some old expanded metal laying around so I cut it to size real quick and welded it to the bottom of the bench. I like the idea of having a bottom shelf that won't hold or trap liquids, is secure to the frame and is reasonably durable.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49747491192/in/dateposted-public/" title="4"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49747491192_51a0395277_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="4"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Then to hit it up with some brush on red oxide primer followed by a urethane fortified alkyd enamel from my favorite local paint store. I used it in my drill press restoration and found it to be easy to apply and very durable.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49746623193/in/dateposted-public/" title="5"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49746623193_d4fbb83987_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="5"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49747491357/in/dateposted-public/" title="6"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49747491357_7eff84b844_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="6"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
So how I have found I like to attach the top of workbenches and casters on plywood bottoms of rolling carts is by using elevator bolts. They spread the compressive load out over a larger area preventing tearing of the wood fibers, provides excellent clamping force and have super thin heads. I pick these up for a few pennies each at the local bulk fastener distributor. Oh and if I ever need to replace the top I can just match drill from the bottom through the metal frame into the replacement top.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49747492942/in/dateposted-public/" title="7"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49747492942_1195429174_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="7"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49747164236/in/dateposted-public/" title="8"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49747164236_2a1046ca07_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="8"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
A little impact action and the lower layer of 3/4” plywood is firmly attached to the top of the metal frame.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49746621638/in/dateposted-public/" title="9"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49746621638_f7bb94514c_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="9"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Now for the top layer of 3/4” plywood I will use some draw a grid pattern and pre-drill some holes in the sheet. I will then use some Tite-Bond 3 liberally applied to the surface, a bunch of pan head screws, and a couple clamps to keep in located in place while I screw the top layer to the lower layer. These screws are only for clamping pressure while the glue dries and will be removed later.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49746622033/in/dateposted-public/" title="11"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49746622033_d692e32922_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="11"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49746622793/in/dateposted-public/" title="10"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49746622793_e0b482c67a_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="10"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49747163441/in/dateposted-public/" title="12"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49747163441_56b0a08f35_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="12"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
And then the bench was quickly forgotten about and sent to live a less than stellar life in the corner of the garage. I'd still like to add some laminate to the top, move it down to the basement and use for other purposes. But for now it will sit here, collecting junk...
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/126635649@N07/49746622313/in/dateposted-public/" title="13"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49746622313_0539e68e10_o.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="13"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
larry4406
Well-known member
I am so going to make all my stuff crooked when I post pics! And I will be sure to clock all of my hex head bolts differently too.
Also rotate all the screws on the electric trim plates at random jaunty angles!
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
I am so going to make all my stuff crooked when I post pics! And I will be sure to clock all of my hex head bolts differently too.
The level that hangs above my workbench is intentionally askew. If anyone asks, I tell them that is how you are supposed to store levels. I then explain that, just like you wouldn't store a torque wrench under tension, you don't store a level in a perfectly level position otherwise it'll lose its calibration. I'm getting better at saying it with a straight face, so much so that I'm probably around 50-50 with getting people to believe me when I tell them that.
Maybe mix phillips, straight, and hex bolts in the same bolt pattern for good measure?
My buddy stopped by the other day as I was walking from the garage to the shop to get a bolt so I could finish mounting my vise. He laughed and shook his head when I told him 3 of 4 had an R on the hex head and I was going to swap out the fourth for one that also had an R.
Sometimes we paralyze ourselves with perfection!
964haus
Well-known member
Here's my work in progress - still figuring out the best route to go for the bench top - considering plywood, butcher block, ply covered with stainless, masonite, etc), but managed to sort a bunch of stuff into the metal card file cabinet I got for $30 a year ago. I was going to refinish it first, but I'm really trying to get the garage into a working place first....
Attachments
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
I intentionally hung pictures in.my daughter's room askew to mess with her OCD. Rarely does stuff like that bother me... because eventually the stereo makes everything on the walls crooked.
tmorris1
Member
348guy
Well-known member
Starting to come together
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looking good tmorris. I love organization.
Attachments
I just quickly built this last weekend. I used mostly scraps I had laying around. I purchased these folding shelf brackets from Amazon that seem to be strong enough for what I will use it for. I had to sand them a little and they seem to fold much better now.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KWPL7WR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the main table is 4' long and 32" wide. It has a 2" lip to clamp things to if needed. each folded section is 16" long so overall length of the table is 80". I kept the height to 30" so while working on things they are at a decent working level. There are wheels on the end that I do not have pictured so I can lift one side and roll it around but it is solid when I put it down. The top is 2 - 1/2" sheets of plywood. I have built other benches this way and seem to like it. I screw down the first sheet with a ton of screws then put just a few screws in the top sheet. This allows a smooth surface and it is able to be replaced. I think I am going to box in the shelf and add a door to the front.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KWPL7WR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the main table is 4' long and 32" wide. It has a 2" lip to clamp things to if needed. each folded section is 16" long so overall length of the table is 80". I kept the height to 30" so while working on things they are at a decent working level. There are wheels on the end that I do not have pictured so I can lift one side and roll it around but it is solid when I put it down. The top is 2 - 1/2" sheets of plywood. I have built other benches this way and seem to like it. I screw down the first sheet with a ton of screws then put just a few screws in the top sheet. This allows a smooth surface and it is able to be replaced. I think I am going to box in the shelf and add a door to the front.
Attachments
astrohip
Well-known member
I remember the Warsteiner BMW M3! And the great stories in Roundel from Mark Calabrese. Loved his column, really miss it.
PhantomEB
Well-known member
Latest phase of mine.
Soon to come will be to elevate the parts washer to bench height and aim for as close as I can to get it to perfection through plywood. Wood top will be painted black there too. It’s almost too much for me to get this all cluttered up so it’s an easy battle to clean up nightly and plan for the next day I be out there.
Right now I am doing up my air manifold system along two walls, bench will see 4 quick disconnects the length of it.
Soon to come will be to elevate the parts washer to bench height and aim for as close as I can to get it to perfection through plywood. Wood top will be painted black there too. It’s almost too much for me to get this all cluttered up so it’s an easy battle to clean up nightly and plan for the next day I be out there.
Right now I am doing up my air manifold system along two walls, bench will see 4 quick disconnects the length of it.
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Last edited:
Black300zx
Well-known member
Is that a toolbox-drawer cling-on on the front of your fridge? If so, that's awesome
PhantomEB
Well-known member
Is that a toolbox-drawer cling-on on the front of your fridge? If so, that's awesome
Sure is. RM-wraps.com is who I worked with on it. Several emails were swapped with variations on spacing as I wanted Black and Craftsman. He only offered Craftsman in Red at the time.
Funny story was last thanksgiving, Uncle Ed disappears and comes back 15 min later, he goes I was gonna get you a beer but where the hell is the beer out there. I take him back out and walked him in front of it....he’s bewildered.... I said you are right in front of it and opened the drawer. The rest of the day all he could talk about is how sneaky I am to have my beer fridge blend in.
I get lots of compliments on it.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Bdbecker, it is also important to re-set your digital torque wrenches to zero so they don't lose their calibration.
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
Finally back to making progress on mine...
Routed the outer grooves for T-track. It was such a PITA I decided to not even attempt the two inner tracks I had planned.
Which means some time in the future I will be building a new top for the legs...
I sanded it all down again last night and put on the first coat of Danish oil tonight.
Routed the outer grooves for T-track. It was such a PITA I decided to not even attempt the two inner tracks I had planned.
Which means some time in the future I will be building a new top for the legs...
I sanded it all down again last night and put on the first coat of Danish oil tonight.
Attachments
Finished up my 4ft workbench build this weekend(single car garage space).
Key build steps and photos below:
Vintage cast iron bases degreased, wire brushed, and sealed.
Pipe with 3/4" threaded rod for cross supports. Inner steel nuts welded to steel pipe(outsourced structural welding).
Solid maple strips finished 48" x 22" for a compact stout work bench.
Top attached to base using aluminum pads with oversize holes, large washers, and cast iron handles for loosening top from base when not in use.
Wood top can move w/ temp changes year round while easy to tighten up with a simple turn of 4x handles when bench is in service.
Small Record No.50 woodworking vice cleaned up and installed.
Vintage adjustable lighting fixtures, cleaned, sealed, and re-wired.
Future project: Installing caster wheels(3" or 4" dia. have not decided yet).
Key build steps and photos below:
Vintage cast iron bases degreased, wire brushed, and sealed.
Pipe with 3/4" threaded rod for cross supports. Inner steel nuts welded to steel pipe(outsourced structural welding).
Solid maple strips finished 48" x 22" for a compact stout work bench.
Top attached to base using aluminum pads with oversize holes, large washers, and cast iron handles for loosening top from base when not in use.
Wood top can move w/ temp changes year round while easy to tighten up with a simple turn of 4x handles when bench is in service.
Small Record No.50 woodworking vice cleaned up and installed.
Vintage adjustable lighting fixtures, cleaned, sealed, and re-wired.
Future project: Installing caster wheels(3" or 4" dia. have not decided yet).
Attachments
348guy
Well-known member
Burn1, that's too pretty to use. [emoji106]
Sent from my XT1635-01 using The Garage Journal mobile app
Sent from my XT1635-01 using The Garage Journal mobile app
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Burn: looks like you could eat a fancy meal or do surgery on your cool little workbench. WELL DONE!!
ALL: this thread is really moving and thanks for posting up all your cool workbenches and shop pics.
ALL: this thread is really moving and thanks for posting up all your cool workbenches and shop pics.
Thank you for the compliments guys. Oh this bench will get used and abused. Why I wanted something stout for project duties. Went with BLO for the top and not a hard poly top-coat finish that can chip/scratch over time. As top surface gets worked/scratched will simply clean off and apply another coat of BLO on fresh exposed wood as needed.
I make sit-stand desks for a living and decided to turn one into an adjustable, heavy-duty workbench. Took it up another notch and made it work with Siri + added casters. Even made one for a buddy at a local cabinet shop.
If you want to see it move, here's a video
If you want to see it move, here's a video
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DaveT
Well-known member
Burn1: Wow! I knew when I spied it the other day in your vise post it looked cool. That is a great setup all around from the lights down to the legs. The Record vise has a great look to as well. Excellent work!
I am in the process of building a 84”x36” 2 1/2” thick butcher block bench now. I have purchased stock steel flared legs, but I would love to find some nice vintage cast iron legs one day for it.