Lets see your workbench

[dittle fart around]

Here are two that I put in this last week.

View media item 42392
The final test for any new workbench is the "can it hold a beer" test.

 

[rt dak]

That's quite a nice improvement.

I'm confused, your copper pipe looks new, but I haven't seen anybody use copper for a long time. How old is the piping?

Original to the house, 1959.

 

[Radio Ron w4ron]

I like the fan, what is it?
I'm a fellow fan lover. You can see some of my fans here;
http://radioheaven.homestead.com/Fan_Collection.html

.

 

[mcmlvif100]

Workbench for my wife for her quilting. Has a huge cutting mat on the top. We spaced the shelving so that she could fit 70 of the clear containers that are visible in the second picture. Each of them is being filled with material for future projects. She has an almost endless supply of the containers as they would otherwise toss them out where she works.

Started with a solid core door from the Habitat ReStore ($5) for the top and cut it down slightly to fit the space. Legs are 3 layers of 2" x 3" glued and screwed together. Stretchers are only screwed in place so it can be knocked down if required. Shelf supports are built with pocket screws (no glue). Top is held on with 6 hanger bolts - wood screw-like on one end and 1/4-20 bolt on the other.

Very heavy and probably overbuilt for her use but the weight makes a very steady and nice work surface.

 

[DrNBody]

Here is my work bench! 91.5" L x 24" D x 38" H. Double layer 3/4" ply with aluminum edging. I get a lot done in my workshop. Thinking of making an incorporated parts washer eventually.

 

[AnEv942]

It's getting there.

From this...Now this...

Im liking the added 'crate' drawer, more so the stencil left intact.


Noted your PT holder, bought one on impulse while back-as I just never got around to making something. But it drives me nuts-either sqashes the roller tube or often as not whole roll jumps out. Drilled and running a piece of bar thru it so I can tension..

 

[67carl]

...Started with a solid core door from the Habitat ReStore ($5) for the top and cut it down slightly to fit the space. Legs are 3 layers of 2" x 3" glued and screwed together. Stretchers are only screwed in place so it can be knocked down if required. Shelf supports are built with pocket screws (no glue). Top is held on with 6 hanger bolts - wood screw-like on one end and 1/4-20 bolt on the other.

Very heavy and probably overbuilt for her use but the weight makes a very steady and nice work surface.

Looks nice. Did you use mortice and tenon joinery? Looks like it. If so, impressive and well done!

 

[rt dak]

I like the fan, what is it?
I'm a fellow fan lover. You can see some of my fans here;
http://radioheaven.homestead.com/Fan_Collection.html

Westinghouse 24-BN-3 pedestal.

Im liking the added 'crate' drawer, more so the stencil left intact.

Thanks, my grandfather had all of his files in that crate. I tried to mount it the same way he mounted the original drawer on the left.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

If I had that copper pipe over my workbench, I'd HAVE to polish it. Yeah, I know, I know, it IS OCD. Can't help it.

I actually knew a man years ago that had THE kickass OCD workshop in his basement that he finished over decades living in his house. It started as the usual shop with workbenches, etc. But then he polished the "overhead" copper pipes visible above his head.

Then, because his was a raised foundation house he gradually expanded the tiny 10x10 California basement til it was below almost the entire house. Finally - yes, this is true - he sanded and stained/varnished the "ceiling" which was actually the underside of the subfloor in the house. A ridiculous waste of time of course but I admit to being impressed with it. I SO wish I had a picture of it. He's long since dead and I've always wondered what subsequent owners did with that shop.

 

[WhiteLightning]

If I had that copper pipe over my workbench, I'd HAVE to polish it. Yeah, I know, I know, it IS OCD. Can't help it.

I did that when we renovated our laundry room haha

Back on topic.....

 

[mcmlvif100]

Looks nice. Did you use mortice and tenon joinery? Looks like it. If so, impressive and well done!

It's pseudo - mortise-and-tenon joinery. I adapted a technique from a Fine Woodworking article and plans (http://www.finewoodworking.com/fwnpdffree/011181054.pdf ). See attached picture from the referenced plans.

Used 2” x 3” that were smooth and straight with really hard (sharp) corners so once the laminations were complete, the legs look like one piece. Key was cutting all of the pieces to uniform lengths for all 4 legs and making sure that the “mortises” were a nice close fit for the stretchers. I used screws for each lamination even though it’s not called for in the plans.

Fun little project and a technique that I would use again.

 

[WatsonComeHere]

This is my version of the Ultimate Workbench. It's more "permanent home" in the garage is still being created.

 

[AustinG]

Of the 10 work benches we have throughout the shop this one is my favourite even though it's not done yet. I'm not sure why it's my favourite maybe the size, strength or that it's just built stupidly heavy anyways it's 6x3x3 back legs are 4x4 square tubing 1/4 thick the front legs and frame are 6x6 h beam 1/2 thick and the two middle supports are 3x5 I beam 1/4 thick if I remember correctly. I can't wait to put a top on it. Oh and I got all the metal for free.

 

[Travinsky]

It's pseudo - mortise-and-tenon joinery. I adapted a technique from a Fine Woodworking article and plans (http://www.finewoodworking.com/fwnpdffree/011181054.pdf ). See attached picture from the referenced plans.

Fun little project and a technique that I would use again.

My wife is into serging now for the holidays and needs a work area similar to yours to prep the fabrics for sewing and such. Thanks for the finewoodworking PDF link now I have to look for some tools to get the job done. What did you use for yours? Thanks

 

[mcmlvif100]

My wife is into serging now for the holidays and needs a work area similar to yours to prep the fabrics for sewing and such. Thanks for the finewoodworking PDF link now I have to look for some tools to get the job done. What did you use for yours? Thanks

Really pretty basic tools in that I used a Milwaukee 10 in. power miter saw (fixed, not slider), and a vintage (1951) bench top Craftsman drill press for most of the structure. Used a Kreg pocket jig for the shelf support cross-pieces.

The drill press isn't necessary but since I have it, I used it with a countersink drill for the screws that help hold the 3 pieces of each leg together (i.e. they are also glued) and for the 1 x 2 edging around the top (which was made from a solid core door). Final tool was a Milwaukee screw gun. Also not absolutely necessary but am getting lazy and there are lots of screws in this bench.

 

[rick carpenter]

It's getting there.

From this...

Now this...

Good use of a wall that many would be tempted to just stack **** in front of!

 

[Grinder Bill]

This is the work table where the fab work gets done...

 

[Kevin54]

It's getting there.

From this...

Now this...

If I had that copper pipe over my workbench, I'd HAVE to polish it. Yeah, I know, I know, it IS OCD. Can't help it.

Most definitely....SHINE THAT PIPE That is not just copper drainpipe, that right there is artwork. Shine it up and show it off

 

[BarquestDan]

Here's mine in my one car garage

The new lumber cart I built on the right

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[Travinsky]

Really pretty basic tools in that I used a Milwaukee 10 in. power miter saw (fixed, not slider), and a vintage (1951) bench top Craftsman drill press for most of the structure. Used a Kreg pocket jig for the shelf support cross-pieces.

Thanks I have a sliding Dewalt miter and was thinking I might need a table saw, but I see you got a door instead, good idea. I have been picking brains at the lumberjocks.com website since I am a noob and they have a few neat projects I can practice with before buying a truckload of tools and going crazy - not to mention getting a mini-split and wife will never see me again.

 

[Responder]

Here's mine in my one car garage

The new lumber cart I built on the right

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Something is wrong here, there are four spare paint rollers but only three bottles of rum!!

 

[Squashfest81]

After years, I finally cut the solid core door and got it on the Craftsman base I've been hoarding. Pounded the drawers into working order and lubed the slides. Now they actually open and close. Just need to get hardware for the vise.

 

[ttimpe]

Hey guys I need help drawing up and making a workbench to fit my space in my garage. I want an L shaped work bench below is a picture of what I am thinking about at the raw frame of the bench the other is what I want it to look like on top. Need material list and lengths. The last picture is the space I have to work with.

The wall that sticks out on the right is 4'5" long and the length I am aloud to go over to the left from the wall on the left is 9'6". I need a space for my tool box that is 29" wide 34" tall with casters. With out it is 28" any help or ideas is greatly appreciated was thinking 2' deep for the bench it's self

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[ttimpe]

Here is the space I have to work with

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[Piece-it Pete]

I've got questions too

My good friend has a nice very old garage (has a loft and very small for a two car, might be pre-automobile). He needs a bench frame 2' x 6'. He'll supply the top.

I've got a few old reclaimed skid pieces, 2-1/2" x 3-1/2" actual dimension oak. Appearance is largely unimportant, rough and ready is fine (as a matter of fact it'd fit the garage), I'm just concerned about durability.

I was thinking this style (thanks wintermute):

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=128019

But considering my lumber dimensions I can't just use metal hangers on the bottom supports. Any suggestions?

Also should I notch the cross braces?

What about height - 36"? 32"?

Thanks

Pete

 

[mdbeck1]

I've got questions too

My good friend has a nice very old garage (has a loft and very small for a two car, might be pre-automobile). He needs a bench frame 2' x 6'. He'll supply the top.

I've got a few old reclaimed skid pieces, 2-1/2" x 3-1/2" actual dimension oak. Appearance is largely unimportant, rough and ready is fine (as a matter of fact it'd fit the garage), I'm just concerned about durability.

I was thinking this style (thanks wintermute):

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=128019

But considering my lumber dimensions I can't just use metal hangers on the bottom supports. Any suggestions?

Also should I notch the cross braces?

What about height - 36"? 32"?

Thanks

Pete

Questions:
1. What are you planning on using the bench for? The design requirements are different for working on computer motherboards than for rebuilding transmissions.

2. Is there a reason to make it "super portable"? Do you want to be able to reconfigure the space without unbolting the bench from the wall or is that not an issue?

3. Is weight an issue? Do you need to be able to fold it up and put it in the back of your truck/car?

4. The height of the workbench is also somewhat subjective. If you are putting a tall stool at the bench you want a tall workbench. If you are fairly short you will want a short workbench. Match the height to the main work. Working for hours at a workbench that is too short will give you backaches.


One other note:
I have a workbench similar to the one linked to. I didn't dado the legs in (4X4s) or anything special. I used long deck screws to attach the 2X3's for the top apron and the shelf. I've used it for all kinds of stuff. Light little stuff and heavy/nasty stuff. I've even considered using it for a tall jack stand. It's not pretty but it works.

 

[vankaye]

Next phase is to get 48ft of 2" steel tube and build my own "Stevo" frame. I am thinking of rotating the fixed wheels 90 degrees and making it so an entire box can be rolled out of the frame like a drawer.

 

[Piece-it Pete]

Man I love those rows of toolboxes!

Questions:
1. What are you planning on using the bench for? The design requirements are different for working on computer motherboards than for rebuilding transmissions.

2. Is there a reason to make it "super portable"? Do you want to be able to reconfigure the space without unbolting the bench from the wall or is that not an issue?

3. Is weight an issue? Do you need to be able to fold it up and put it in the back of your truck/car?

4. The height of the workbench is also somewhat subjective. If you are putting a tall stool at the bench you want a tall workbench. If you are fairly short you will want a short workbench. Match the height to the main work. Working for hours at a workbench that is too short will give you backaches.


One other note:
I have a workbench similar to the one linked to. I didn't dado the legs in (4X4s) or anything special. I used long deck screws to attach the 2X3's for the top apron and the shelf. I've used it for all kinds of stuff. Light little stuff and heavy/nasty stuff. I've even considered using it for a tall jack stand. It's not pretty but it works.

Sorry I wasn't clear. Car work for sure! With 'projects' as well. It needs to be strong. It doesn't need to be portable or moveable at all, once installed it'll probably be there the life of the garage.

After consideration I've rethought a little. I can't just do the type of notching winter did because the rails are the same dimensions as the posts. Half and half rails/posts or thereabouts? I assume the post's 3-1/2 dimension should go side to side. Though if I put it back to front I could notch the post 2" and the rails 1/2" or thereabouts. 1-1/2 and 1?

Oh heck I don't know what I'm doing The only thing I've decided is, he's shorter than me (I'm 6') so I'm going 32".

Pete

 

[mdbeck1]

Man I love those rows of toolboxes!



Sorry I wasn't clear. Car work for sure! With 'projects' as well. It needs to be strong. It doesn't need to be portable or moveable at all, once installed it'll probably be there the life of the garage.

After consideration I've rethought a little. I can't just do the type of notching winter did because the rails are the same dimensions as the posts. Half and half rails/posts or thereabouts? I assume the post's 3-1/2 dimension should go side to side. Though if I put it back to front I could notch the post 2" and the rails 1/2" or thereabouts. 1-1/2 and 1?

Oh heck I don't know what I'm doing The only thing I've decided is, he's shorter than me (I'm 6') so I'm going 32".

Pete

It sounds like you already have part of the design in your head. However if you go with 4X4 legs you can dado the leg to accept the 2X4 material. OR you can use a second 2X4 on the legs that fits under the cross members. That will give you a 4X4 leg with a flat face.

The height is always subjective but I find a comfortable height to be about wrist high. Of course I had a vice on top of that bench which meant that if I used a hammer on the vice I was actually hitting stuff a little bit higher than my wrist. It's better to start a little bit tall and if you want the bench lower you can cut the legs off. Just make sure that they are cut the same length.

 

[My Junk is Stuff]

Mind you, this is actually after a considerable bit of cleaning

The First one is my old Equipto steel work bench, it's in nice shape, complete and no rust plus the Wilton Bullet on the corner. It makes a great protector for my 911 engine..Next is a built in wood bench that was in the garage when we moved in. Right now this one has a few live steam projects on top. It is just high enough to stuff my 6 inch planer under. Last is my maple top table with about half of an old Veco Chief built on it.

 

[90zcar]

Can't remember if I put mine on here or not. It's a solid steel welded table around 5 foot long. It has. 1/4" solid steel plate top. It's roughly 400lbs. It definetely doesn't move when I'm beating on it or tugging on the vise. I keep the top oiled up with wd40 from Time to time to keep the rust at bay




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[brats.n.harleys]

Just re did a few in my garage. The sink bench has a few coats of poly urethane, and the workbench is just oiled with tung oil.


was able to sneak the drain for the sink between the drawers

 

[90zcar]

I see ur an old bmx guru by the old school little devil banner hanging up there!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


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[ttimpe]

Just re did a few in my garage. The sink bench has a few coats of poly urethane, and the workbench is just oiled with tung oil.


was able to sneak the drain for the sink between the drawers

Looks good Vince!!


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[Heavymetalmechanic]

I like that aged copper look on plumbing better then polished. Too many shiny things make it hard for me to focus.

 

[mbolek]

I kinda cheated. Just installed new workbench and cabinets.

 

[akdiesel]

mbolek

Nice and clean look.

 

[PCO6]

mbolek

That looks great. What brand of cabinets are those?

 

[Bob Heine]

Just re did a few in my garage. The sink bench has a few coats of poly urethane, and the workbench is just oiled with tung oil.

was able to sneak the drain for the sink between the drawers

If and when your sink faucet needs to be replaced, you might consider a goose-neck style. It's handy when you want to fill a bucket with warm water.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/American...e-with-Gooseneck-Spout-4275-550-002/100092466

My sink is a laundry tub that eats up quite a bit of storage space in the cabinet below but very handy for rinsing out 5-gallon buckets. The faucet is the same style but with the smaller laundry/bathroom faucet spacing.

 

[JDishong]

Installed stainless steel counter top, almost complete...