rust in the eye
Well-known member
Also works well on internal hex fasteners.Got a partially stripped phillips head screw? Dip your driver into some valve lapping compound. Adds enough grip to get out a surprising number of those screws.
Also works well on internal hex fasteners.Got a partially stripped phillips head screw? Dip your driver into some valve lapping compound. Adds enough grip to get out a surprising number of those screws.
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There are a bunch of tricks with these. There are 12 segments. You can count segments and make a 3 4 5 square. These are still required tools for union electrian apprentices in my area. They can use them this way to keep drilled wire holes straight down a wall (squaring to the studs. They also use them to mock-up conduits. You can create a traingle with them to transfer angles to another person, bending conduit etc. There are a bunch of clever uses for these.
Thanks! Transferring triangles is new to me!There are a bunch of tricks with these. There are 12 segments. You can count segments and make a 3 4 5 square. These are still required tools for union electrian apprentices in my area. They can use them this way to keep drilled wire holes straight down a wall (squaring to the studs. They also use them to mock-up conduits. You can create a traingle with them to transfer angles to another person, bending conduit etc. There are a bunch of clever uses for these.
The one that really made me crazy was a PH meter that has to be calibrated before each use. Had to send that in for cal too!I had a 6” machinist’s rule that I had to have “calibrated”. It was used with a measuring microscope in an environment where we couldn’t put a moving measurement device or control the exact distance to the item being measured. Drove me crazy I had to send it in every 6 months for them to attach a sticker with the same error values every time.
They probably used the same solution you used to cal it!The one that really made me crazy was a PH meter that has to be calibrated before each use. Had to send that in for cal too!
I’m sure! **** made no sense.They probably used the same solution you used to cal it!
If you need to square something but don't have a square you can use a tape measure. Measure 3 units on one side of the corner, 4 on the other. The distance between the two marks needs to be 5 for the corner to be square. It's a fun trick that is based on good old trigonometry.
I once worked with an older carpenter who didn't believe in the Pythagorean Theorem...
Story poles were another kind of solution we used a lot for things like roofing and siding. When you need to "cheat" courses to get stuff to line up right with whatever it needs to line up with, make a story pole. Measure once....Didn't "believe in" the Pythagorean theorem? Um, yeah. That's a very special brand of dense...
Anyhoo, there are any number of time-saving tricks for avoiding the use of a measuring device. The basic ones are fairly obvious, but Google up a video or two on using "ticking sticks". With a pencil and a scrap of material, you can pull off incredible feats...
"seejanedrill" is an awesome YT channel...
And this is why you never let the end of the tape slam into the case on recoil. Always stop the metal clip with your finger.He explained that the wobble is intentional and precise, to be the dimension of the end metal clip itself, because the end metal clip has thickness to it. The 6' micro tape measure I have here has a 0.04" thick metal lip on the end.
Always control the speed of the tape retracting with a finger on the bottom of the tape--never the edge. As tapes get worn, the edge gets razor-sharp. I have the scars....And this is why you never let the end of the tape slam into the case on recoil. Always stop the metal clip with your finger.
Maybe, maybe not. the test solution is testing a particular point, the lab should be testing multiple across the range the meter measures. It's not uncommon for instruments to read fine in the middle of a range, but go wacky in the end ranges.I’m sure! **** made no sense.
Wait a minute--don't machinist's rules have an adjustment screw for calibration?
My dad always told me to "burn an inch" whenever using a tape measure because of that.I was hanging out with a woodworker friend of mine a few years ago, and the topic of tape measures came up, and I commented that I noticed tape measures have a wobble on the metal lip that is on the end of the measuring tape that sticks out of the tape measure body. And I asked him about the concern that the wobble would introduce an error into the measurement.
I've only ever had to use tape measures to measure rough estimates. How many feet is the backyard to run sprinkler pipe. Hanging the TV at a proper height. Nothing that + or - a full inch would really matter. But in woodworking, obviously you need to get to down to 1/16" or smaller, and that little wobble at the end clip might mess it up. And I'm not a stupid person, and I've used tools for various purposes for over 20 years at this point in my adult life. But never did any woodworking.
He explained that the wobble is intentional and precise, to be the dimension of the end metal clip itself, because the end metal clip has thickness to it. The 6' micro tape measure I have here has a 0.04" thick metal lip on the end.
The purpose of the wobble is that if you are going to hook the lip over the top of something and pull traction on the tape measure, you want that lip to wobble outward, so that the measurement tape gains an extra 0.04" (in this case) to account for the thickness of the lip itself. And if you are pushing the tape measure end into something, you want that lip to wobble inwards, so that it doesnt inappropriately add its 0.04" width to the measurement.
I'm probably the only idiot here who didn't know that, but the point of this thread is for people to share other similar tricks that might be non-obvious when it comes to the tools we use. And maybe as an informal poll mechanism, if someone posts a trick you learned something from, "like" that post and we can see which tricks were the least well known to people here.
My dad always told me to "burn an inch" whenever using a tape measure because of that.
WHOOSH!Not sure if what exactly you're thinking of, but "rule", often times called a "scale" in the machine shop, or a "ruler" by most... I've never seen an adjustable ruler.
His trick for long measurements was to measure past cent from each end and mark it.Which works great when you have help, or for short distances. Not so much on long runs by yourself.



Or an oring.Have a floppy universal socket? Wrap a bit of electrical tape around the joint. It will stiffen it up yet still allow it to work an an angle.
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