Lift modifications Thread- Lets see them!
- Thread starter ndm
- Start date
Omg....I cannot believe that it is just now occurring to me that these racks can actually support a whole vehicle. I looked up these racks and the rail kits can support 18000 pounds thebeams can be sized to support up to 8000 pounds each rack set on a single level. You guys are brilliant! I literally could use the racks to store my dodge ramm 2500. I do not know why it is so suprising because my old company, we stored thousands of pounds of batteries on the same racks. I think I want a rack or two in my garage. They are not really that expensive either.
I love this forum!
NitroShark
Well-known member
Spring loaded ramps, so I don’t bump my head. I never have to remove them either.
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A couple pics I think were not showing but I really like this mod. I think it makes alot of sense.
Spring loaded ramps, so I don’t bump my head. I never have to remove them either.
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Great idea! I rarely use my lift for double parking because it's such a hassle to pull the ramps....I'd be glad to see more info on your set-up/
Iann128
Member
Spring loaded ramps, so I don’t bump my head. I never have to remove them either.
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Ok would love to see more about how you did this. I have not used my lift for double parking yet because of having to take the ramps off.
Iann128
Member
I use wheel chocks when jacking one end up
Found this one here
http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/838512-post55.html
Some device to back in a lotus and flags to guide it.
http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/838512-post55.html
Some device to back in a lotus and flags to guide it.
NitroShark
Well-known member
My lift came with wheel chocks - no reason I see to use the ramps.
NitroShark
Well-known member
Marcm157
Well-known member
Not a major modification but one that I felt added just a bit of extra safety. I added a disconnect switch right at my lift controls so in the event of a runaway lift carriage I can flip the switch and kill power.
By the time I'd get to my breaker panel it would be too late.
By the time I'd get to my breaker panel it would be too late.
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Posting your pics here.
I originally bought the optional Bendpak ramp brackets. They worked well but did not raise the ramps to max lift. I tig welded some tabs to them and added some valve springs to hold them up to Max height.
Worked out great, so I thought I would share the idea.
Shawn
Photo shows the modified lift springs added on the right and stock brackets left.
Iann128
Member
So I just searched Bendpak's site and can't find those little brackets. Anyone have a part number?
Thanks,
Ian
Thanks,
Ian
Iroc-Z
Well-known member
Did the same thing. Well worth the safety
lakeroadster
Well-known member
While I admire your fella's safety minded demeanor... has anybody ever experienced a runaway lift?
And if the motor did indeed stay on, would the lift not simply dead head in the up position until you were able to flip the breaker?
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
Spending $30 for a little disconnect box seems prudent when you have something very expensive sitting on the lift that also weighs several tons...
Even an emergency stop button in-line would be a good modification.
Heel2toe
Well-known member
A switch on the lift is a great addition and everybody should have one on there.
I picked up a used Rotary SPOA7 about a year ago and had a lift installer set the thing up for me as I had no way to go pick the thing up so it was worth the $500 IMO to have them deal with getting it, vs me bugging a buddy and finding a trailer, renting a real hammerdrill, picking up anchor bolts fluid shims and all the other good stuff. Anyway, while he was setting the thing up I noticed my lift had a switch above the controls and I asked him the purpose of that switch and he informed me that sometimes the switch jams so it allows you to cut the power without having to run to flip the breaker. I figured OK cool that sounds like a good idea glad I have it just in case.
So they set the thing up and jump it to bleed the system all is well. A few days later I got the lift wired up and it goes up and down as it should. OK party time, time to put my car up in the air for the first time. I drive the car into the bay position the arms and press the button to start raising the lift. The plan was to raise it a smidge confirm the arms have good placement and then raise it up fully. To my surprise when I let go of the button the motor didnt stop and the arms kept raising. I instantly flipped the switch and it killed the power. Thank god I had that switch and of course it happened to me the very first time I go to use the friggin thing! Talk about perfect timing haha!
Had I not asked the installer what that switch was I may have not known and probably would have ran over to trip the breaker which in my case probably would be fine since my arms were positioned properly and my panel is close. But boy am I glad I had the switch on my lift right there as assuming the arms were proper you can easy punch through a floorboard or hell potentially flip whatever you're trying to lift if its not balanced as it should be.
I purchased a new switch and the lift has been perfect since then and I hope to never need to use the cutoff again but its simple insurance in the instance that the thing jams.
Yes it does happen and assuming the vehicle is positioned properly then changes are it won't cause an issue. But for short money and a little bit if your time I'd recommend wiring one in. And goes without saying that you need to pick up the proper sized switch; I wanna say mine is a 30A IIRC.
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lakeroadster
Well-known member
Heel2toe
Well-known member
I wouldn't stress over it, but its also cheap insurance and can happen. I purchased my lift from a guy that picked up a couple from a dealer and mine had been sitting in his shop for a couple years so that may have had something to do with my failure.
Regardless, I don't think its common but the guy was so quick to mention its purpose and although he didnt make it sound like it happens often he's in the lift install and repair business so Im sure he's seen a fair share of stuck switches.
I just thought my story was funny given that it was the first time I was actually using the thing. Of course the numerous test runs with no load when I was wiring it up, it didn't stick but rather when I positioned my baby. Pretty much sums up how things tend to go in my life
Have a safe and happy new year!
More lift mods. These next two are ramps to convert a 2 post into a storage lift. One is wood and one is metal. I actually love the idea of the metal ones and I can think of some casters built into the metal ramps to allow you to roll it into place since it is 450 pounds.
Before I built the drive on ramps for my TA, I stored it for 3-4 months over the winter with no side effects. Every car is different but no problems on a GM f-body. I built the ramps for convenience of being able to jump in and drive when ever without having to move the arms. I have $200 in materials on mine.
The 2 x 6 supports under the LVL where ripped to fit in direct contact with the floor so the wood is all fully supported while driving on.
Sorry for the less than stellar pics, but its cold here and I didn't wanna pull the truck out.
The metal ramps...
Did some work on this today...
Here is the final product and reason for not doing a 4 post...
tlmartin84- that's what the other lift is for. But I also made provisions for my tractor front end loader forks to be able to lift it off. Just 4 3/8" bolts hold it on the pads.
c39er
Well-known member
Made up some H-Duty "Flip Up" ramp's for my HD14 BP...hated the ramps hanging out in the way for me to bang my head on them...
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Dakota00
Well-known member
I have... Don't know how it happened, some how the push button switch stayed engaged. Thankfully the outlet is 1ft away from the lift and I was able to kill the power. So it can happen!
EDIT: My submission to this thread, I put handles on the heavy awkward ramps. Makes picking up and carrying them around so much easier!
View media item 66853
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I had one a few weeks ago. The microswitch doesn't have a very strong return spring. It must have been pressed in a little crooked, and friction made it stick. One good whack, and it popped out and stopped. With my taller vehicles, I could hit the ceiling before hitting the max up position (with a 12ft ceiling). If i was trying to get the last couple inches out of it, it could have been ugly. I put a new switch in, I'm more cognizant of the issue now, and the outlet is only a foot away to pull the plug if needed.
Scud67
Well-known member
Some of the lifts also use an inferior switch where the contacts can melt together when the button is pressed in - doesn't happen often, but if it ever does the panic sets in! Especially when my lift could put a truck right through the ceiling if it were to go all the way up.... having that safety shut off switch right above the button is just some peace of mind. I also shut off the switch when I am not in the garage, just in case someone goes by and presses the button....
lakeroadster
Well-known member
Slick
This design loads the arms of the lift in the manner they were designed to be used. Therefore it doesn't de-rate the lifts capacity.
The use of Wheel-Engaging Adaptors introduces high torsional loads into the lift arms. I ran the numbers on my Rotary SPOA10 and using the Wheel-Engaging Adaptors de-rates the lift in the range of 1/2 to 1/3 of it's original capacity.
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I absolutely love this mod. I think it is just awesome. I will however suggest that there be some hind of locking pins to keep them from accidentally getting loose and swinging down somehow. I love the matching finish too.
Nice, simple, effective! I love it.
Any reason why you do not store them between the rails?
Slick
This design loads the arms of the lift in the manner they were designed to be used. Therefore it doesn't de-rate the lifts capacity.
The use of Wheel-Engaging Adaptors introduces high torsional loads into the lift arms. I ran the numbers on my Rotary SPOA10 and using the Wheel-Engaging Adaptors de-rates the lift in the range of 1/2 to 1/3 of it's original capacity.
If the debate whether it was safe to store a car on a 2 post was settled and decided to be safe by all, I would say this is the design that I would want. I would just add casters to roll the sled wherever I wanted.
Heel2toe
Well-known member
Why is that any safer? Under normal 2 post lift usage the lift pads are engaged on the frame of the vehicle. In this case the pads are just engaged with that metal which is then holding the vehicles wheels. Seems in both cases things could "slip".
But hey Im still on the boat that storing a car on a 2 post lift is perfectly fine. If I had a 4 post lift too would it be my preferred method of storage? Well it would but not from a safety perspective but rather ease of loading it on the lift.
But hey Im still on the boat that storing a car on a 2 post lift is perfectly fine. If I had a 4 post lift too would it be my preferred method of storage? Well it would but not from a safety perspective but rather ease of loading it on the lift.
Dakota00
Well-known member
I was kinda kinda trying to be a little funny there by poking fun at the debate
. I'm not saying that it is safe or that storing cars is not safe on a 2 post. I'm just saying that the "ramps" are a great idea to me no matter which side of the debate you are on. I appreciate the innovation
That makes sense.I find it more of a hassle to store the ramps in between the rails. I actually store them length wise on the floor under the car. I find it much easier. Pull the bottom car out, grab the ramps place them in front of the lift. Lower the lift and install the ramps. Good to go!
c39er
Well-known member
Nice! Race Ramps. Lightweight foam ramps.
I may know of a very easy way to make these yourself. Stay tuned while I find out the densities of the foam ramps. I think these are a fantastic idea!
https://raceramps.com/ramp-category/rack-and-lift-ramps/
I may know of a very easy way to make these yourself. Stay tuned while I find out the densities of the foam ramps. I think these are a fantastic idea!
https://raceramps.com/ramp-category/rack-and-lift-ramps/
Dakota00
Well-known member
^^^ I certainly would be interested if I can DIY these, at a reasonable cost.
Well here is my thought process on this.
I design and build stuff out of composites to include urethane expanding foam. There are many densities of this foam and the way I figure, I could make a simple mold (think wooden ******** boards) and fill the mold with the two part mixture of high density expanding foam.
So far I have found that the urethane foam that I could get easily is 16Lb density. The Density is simply the weight of 1 cubic foot of the foam. Now what I am trying to do is find the highest density foam possible and match the compression strength with that of blocks of wood in a horizontal configuration.
I have found that the 16lb foam that I have used in the past has a compression strength of 580 psi. That alone is a deal breaker because it is almost 10 times les than most wood.
Soooo...
Just gotta investigate some other options. I want to figure out how the company made trailer ramps that will support 8000 pounds. I know that they use polystyrene but I want to find the structural stuff that they are using.
joel
Well-known member
This is a GREAT thread OP!
Thanks and glad you are enjoying it.