Liftmaster 3800

[kool55]

I have had enough with my WD i Drives. Going to upgrade to the 3800. Is the Liftmaster Smart Control hard wired to the opener[with bell wire] ? My i Drives were wireless. My garage walls are painted dry walled and I hate to see the wires.

 

[jdub63]

Mine is hardwired with bell wire to the opener button... but the light is wireless.

The outdoor control panel is wireless (optional)

 

[kool55]

Thats what I thought. Small price to pay for a better opener. Thanks.

 

[SHawkins87]

I just completed converting 2 Wayne Dalton doors from i-Drive to Liftmaster 3800. You will have to change from the TorqueMaster spring system to conventional torsion springs to install the Liftmaster 3800. I had our local Wayne Dalton service center come out and change the springs and hardware out and remove the old i-Drive openers. It cost me $514.00 for labor and hardware.

I purchased the new Liftmaster 3800 openers off eBay and installed them myself. The main control pads that come with them are wired and I was in the same shape as you not wanting to run exposed wires so I installed the wired panels right next to the garage doors by the openers and purchased the Liftmaster 378LM wireless controllers to install by the man door to the house where the old wireless Wayne Dalton controllers were.

I love the new setup! I hope the openers prove to be as reliable as the reviews say they are.

 

[Motown 454]

Smart idea !

 

[kool55]

SHawkins87, thanks for the heads up on the spring changeover and the 378LM wireless keypads. Thats how I will do mine.

 

[just1more]

Kool,
I am also FED UP with my Wayne Dalton Idrive.What a pc. of cr@p. Have been looking at the 3800.


SHawkins,
I have been looking at the 3800 installation instructions online. They say the drums are to be 4-6". Mine are around 3 1/2".. Do you see any reason the opener wouldnt work?

 

[kool55]

My drums are 4'' and I have the torsion spring, not the Torquemaster. So I should be good to go. I found a site that may be useful called youdoit garage door parts.

 

[SHawkins87]

Kool,
I am also FED UP with my Wayne Dalton Idrive.What a pc. of cr@p. Have been looking at the 3800.


SHawkins,
I have been looking at the 3800 installation instructions online. They say the drums are to be 4-6". Mine are around 3 1/2".. Do you see any reason the opener wouldnt work?

I am not sure why it wouldn't work for you. I don't see what the drum size has to do with it but I would defer to the instructions if they say 4 inch minimimum I wouldn't take a chance without contacting Liftmaster for clarification.

I measured my drums just to see and they were 4 1/2 inch. The opener mounts to the shaft which measures 1 inch. It seems that the only thing the drum size would affect is how fast the door opens and closes and the number of revolutions it takes to do it but I am no engineer.

 

[just1more]

I really cant see why it wouldnt work either., but I will definately call before I buy one.

Thanks!

 

[AndyL]

I won't be popular with this...

If you've got an RF I-drive, its probably not an opener problem... your door needs work... I've serviced hundreds of these for 'bad openers' - I've had one bad power plug, 2 bent detent pins, and 9997 doors that needed service...

I'm trying to find two old torsion i-drives for my new garage... Yes, I prefer them over 3800s

3800 fitment - the reason for 4" drum requirement - is to fit the depth of the opener...

But, if you have 3.5" drums, and have 5/8" between drum and wall your fine (means headplates are for 4" drums - typical, very few have the proper offset headplates for the 3.5s - they cost more) . If the 3.5s are pretty much tight to wall - your not SOL, just requires more fun (framing, drywall work or reworking the headshaft)

 

[just1more]

Your right Andy!!

Is there any reason for this? .... When the door does not go down, it is not in the same travel location when it reverses. This morning the door barely moved..maybe 2" before it returned... yesterday it was within 6 or 8 inches of the floor. Sometimes its in the midway area.

I have added and subtracted spring tension, nothing helps. Maybe this opener is super sensative to minute changes?


As for looking for Idrives, I probably have enough parts (some new) to make 2 of them and have stuff left over. I was planning on advertising them when I get a new opener. You interested in a package deal?


btw, thanks for the info on my 3.5 drums. It does look like there is room in the cable clearance to shim the whole spring hardware out to meet the centerline distance of the 3800. As long as cables dont hit the track, any problems with this option?

 

[AndyL]

Its a sensitive forest creature - between the lawyers and ability to run without photoeyes, its a necessity...

Start by going through the door - it needs to run smooth, if it takes more than a pinky finger to open/close - fix that...

Then reprofile, its pretty much a seasonal need. Or with major temperature changes...

You wouldn't shim the headshaft - replace the headplates with 4 3/8" offset ones and adjust or replace the spring anchor to match...

 

[nova65ss]

The reason for the 4-6" diameter on the drum is for the counter inside the limits to work correctly. If you use a drum larger than 6" it will not hold its limits properly and will never program. We have used them on drums larger than 6" and it worked and some have not worked not sure why.

If they are smaller than 4" you may have a similar issue with the opener holding the limits.

I won't be popular with this...

If you've got an RF I-drive, its probably not an opener problem... your door needs work... I've serviced hundreds of these for 'bad openers' - I've had one bad power plug, 2 bent detent pins, and 9997 doors that needed service...

I'm trying to find two old torsion i-drives for my new garage... Yes, I prefer them over 3800s

3800 fitment - the reason for 4" drum requirement - is to fit the depth of the opener...

But, if you have 3.5" drums, and have 5/8" between drum and wall your fine (means headplates are for 4" drums - typical, very few have the proper offset headplates for the 3.5s - they cost more) . If the 3.5s are pretty much tight to wall - your not SOL, just requires more fun (framing, drywall work or reworking the headshaft)

 

[AndyL]

I've installed several on 3.5" drums, limits set properly, door speed is slightly slowed (limit resolution is actually better on the smaller drums). The issue comes when you've got the 3.5" drums 3 5/8" offset headplates, and straight onto drywall - thats when either 2x4 backframing comes in, or drywall comes out...

Only time I had problems with limits was on a vertical lift door on 8" drums - but that was probably a weight issue (reason for the 8" drums) was a good excuse to put him into a firehall zap

 

[just1more]

I just spoke with Liftmaster. They did not think the smaller drum size would hurt anything other than the cable tension monitor might be towards the inner limit of its travel. Could the monitor be tricked into its limit center by shimming it?

I also have drywall coming up to the door framing.(the door is mounted on the rough 2x6 framing) I may have to move my whole door in 3/4" by using 1x boards?

 

[PittsS1]

The cable tension monitor can be mounted wherever it needs to be to work by putting blocks under it, etc. I padded out the interior of my garage with 2x6, and have a strange mounting arrangement for the end bearings as I have follow-the-roof-pitch tracks. That meant I had to shim out my tension monitor with a pad of 2x6 and some thinner shims so that it was in the proper operating range.

You can download the install instructions from their website, and it gives this info.

I absolutely LOVE the 3800, and I think I've got friends/neighbors who want to switch over. Went to a local garage door supplier, who was happy to sell me two doors, all the hardware, and opener for DIY. I ended up paying $294 for the 3800 with two remotes and keypad (comes with light and interior smart panel).

 

[Bakerman]

I just installed a 3800 last night, and let me tell you, this thing is a work of art. Love it! For the life of me, I can't really figure out why the first door openers were not of this design? Really, it just seems SOOO much more straightforward to me than the old center hung chain drives. I'm sold, never buy anything else.

(I know, I know, needs torsion springs, won't work with extensions, single, blah blah blah, you get my point)

Seriously though, one fine product and I very rarely shill. Andy and others are right on the drum size, it's a wall spacing and limit issue, but yours will probably work just fine. If you have the depth to centerline of the shaft, you should be good to go. Worst case is the upper limit stops just shy of where you'd want to be, but I seriously doubt it.

As for shimming out the slack monitor to put it in the middle of it's travel, you'd be going the wrong way if I'm understanding you correctly. You would have to recess it into the wall to get it in the middle, but then it may not completely collapse when it needs to. But honestly, I don't see why anyone has any issues with the slack monitor, it's just a simple switch. If your cable isn't slack, no maky the switchy - no problem. I don't get it?

 

[AndyL]

Depends on the drum, notice how yours ramp up/down in diameter at the outer edge? That's where the problem can arise... There's differences even between castings from the same manufacturer.

The old school trolleys are actually more reliable is the basic answer, it's an accomplishment to throw cables on a trolley operator; but with a jackshaft, it can be done very easily (this is why most docks use good old rope/chain 'manual' operation rather than even a chain hoist - same principle, move the door not the shaft). This is where that cable tension monitor comes in (and it's imperfect, should be one on each side by rights)

Upper limit is a computerized number, 3800 works on a pulse encoder scenario; not a shaft... They say up to 14' high, but once you're over 7' - you're out of 3.5" drums anyway...

 

[just1more]

In the 3800 instructions the power is to be within 6 feet. My power is a bit over 7 feet away. I see they make an alternate power source kit with an interface...

http://shopping.yahoo.com/756849074-garage-door-opener-model-580lm-rjo-3800-alternate-power-source/

Why couldnt you just put a little bit longer power cord on to reach the outlet?

 

[AndyL]

Extension cords are for temporary use only - not for permanent power. Because they're attached to a permanent fixture (the opener), they become a permanent fixture (and no longer meet electical code)... Thus you need a proper length power cord (some actually have lower guage wire - to accomodate the longer run) or an appropriate recepticle.

 

[just1more]

I'm not talking about an extension cord. There are instructions on hard wiring the opener to meet certain codes. Looks like the motor only pulls 1 amp. What is the difference if the power cord is replaced with a cord that is basically a foot longer, as long as the cord is the same gauge or larger?

I am going to get the ladder out and re-measure the outlet distance to actually see what it is. (I had measured roughly from the floor earlier.) If need be, I can move the outlet, but then I would have to patch drywall.

 

[pattenp]

If it were me and the cord was just a foot short I'd replace the cord with a foot or so longer cord. I don't see any issue with doing that.

 

[Bakerman]

Forgive me, but I must channel my inner nerd here. If you replace the cord, something the manufacturer doesn't endorse, accommodate or recommend, then you've essentially voided the warranty and any safety ratings the unit may have such as UL, FM, etc. I know it sounds stupid, but it is very true. This is the reason why you see less and less flexibility or options in devices today. UL, for instance, requires that manufacturers test their devices in EXACTLY the same configuration in which they will be sold and do not allow ANY other configurations. So, replace the cord? Negate the rating. If you ever did have a problem, fire, etc, nobody will stand behind the product. It's all on your nickel.

Beyond that, some markets and regulatory agencies set the maximum length in cords for non-portable equipment, and it's usually 6'.

Now, being realistic, a new cord will work just fine and will not cause any problems. But since it's simply not financially feasible to test every possible permutation or consider every crazy thing a homeowner may decide to do with his/her opener, you get one safety rating in one configuration.

If this doesn't concern you, extend the cord, be careful and be happy . If it does, then put in a new outlet or use the permanent wire solution supported by lift master.

 

[just1more]

Bakerman,
I understand what your saying as well. Like they say, The trouble with common sense is....."it isnt".

My other option would be to convert my existing outlet to a junction box and run 12 ga wires in flex conduit to the opener..thus hard wiring it. Something that they show how to do in the instructions.

 

[just1more]

Update...the existing outlet is a little over 7 feet away. I think I will make the existing outlet a junction box and surface mount a new outlet box next to the 3800..

.. been buying parts for my Chevelle, so now I need to find the extra 300 bucks to buy it......Anyone want a "good" used Idrive?

 

[Bakerman]

Is it not possible to leave the existing outlet in place, fish a wire through the wall, and simply add an additional, dedicated outlet for the opener?

 

[just1more]

Is it not possible to leave the existing outlet in place, fish a wire through the wall, and simply add an additional, dedicated outlet for the opener?

Most anything is possible, but it's an outside wall with insulation. If I tried going up, its hard to get in the attic at the plate. There is no way to drill sideways thru the studs without cutting drywall. This outlet is already on a dedicated circuit. So, other than a few feet of conduit showing (it is above the garage door) really no different than running another outlet on this circuit.

 

[just1more]

Well, its official, I just ordered a 3800

I'm trying to find two old torsion i-drives for my new garage... Yes, I prefer them over 3800s

Andy, I might be able to make your dream come true! there will be an Idrive with LOTS of parts for sale in a month or so.

.

 

[just1more]

happy day!!!!!!!!!

 

[just1more]

happier day!!!!!!

 

[admranger]

happy day!!!!!!!!!

I need to get two of these and soon. I'll add that to my garage re-do list...need the electrical done to move outlets close enough to be legal.

 

[just1more]

UPDATE.... for weeks( months/years?) I had to get out of my truck, about every other time to manually release the Wayne Dalton opener to close the door.

Welllll ........... this morning after installing the 3800 yesterday afternoon, I again had to get out of my truck... this time to watch how beautifully (and quietely) this opener works!!!!!! I keep feeling like I NEED to get out and check to make sure this really is working as an opener should. Gonna take a while to break that feeling.

 

[stilinsm]

Make sure you plug your 3800s into a surge protector. Just installed 2 units 6 months ago. One stopped working all together. Liftmaster CS indicated that the main board is fried. Asked if I had them plugged into surge protectors... I did not. Asked if we had storms / power outages lately... we did. Apparently damages that maybe attributed to surges are not covered under warranty, eventhough no where does it state that it is not, nor does the instructions recommend the use of surge protectors, nor is it listed as an available option on the instruction sheet, but out of the kindness of their hearts (sarcasm), they're sending me a replacement board.
Just bought two 990lm liftmaster surge protectors off ebay.

 

[just1more]

I did buy a surge protector (might have seen your post somewhere else talking about it) and after having the 3800 installed went to plug the protector in. I was surprised to see that it not only plugs in, but has terminals on the bottom for the bell wiring from the eyes, control switch, etc. as well. So, now I need to do a bit more re-wiring one of these evenings.

and I , like you wonder why they just wouldnt include it in the 3800/ or at least let you know its recommended.

 

[AndyL]

Power surges/brownouts are hard on all equipment; they don't include it because often there are whole house systems involved. And it's hard to compete on a financial basis when you're throwing in 50$ of parts that none of your competitors do...

 

[just1more]

Andy,
I understand not including it with the opener because of competition, pricing, etc. Only reason I even knew to buy a protector was after seeing a post by someone (maybe stilinsm's?) on the journal. It only cost an extra 12 bucks when I ordered it with the opener.


BTW... you ready for some Wayne Dalton parts? you might be able to open a store with all the extra stuff I have!!

 

[riskyvt]

With a growing fleet of Chevelles, it came time to add a second 4-post lift in my workshop. Mostly for parking options, I will still use the original lift for my maintenance. Facing the same dilemma as the first lift placement, the original Overhead Door opener (Legacy model) was a traditional ceiling mount belt drive with track. It's worked fine since installation in 2008, but now I needed the clear ceiling for lifting cars up high. Liftmaster 3800 was the solution back then, so I picked up a new unit off Ebay and installed it on Sunday afternoon and finished yesterday. These are sooooo easy to install it's crazy. Very nice product with clear instructions. Happy I am!

 

[just1more]

I won't be popular with this...

If you've got an RF I-drive, its probably not an opener problem... your door needs work... I've serviced hundreds of these for 'bad openers' - I've had one bad power plug, 2 bent detent pins, and 9997 doors that needed service...

I'm trying to find two old torsion i-drives for my new garage... Yes, I prefer them over 3800s

QUOTE]


Andy ....here is your Dream opener"

going to be for sale ...

 

[just1more]

and a "few extra parts, some are new :