Liftmaster 8500 questions

[kerryt1]

Looking to install 3 of these in my upcoming residential garage thanks to learning about them on this site. A few questions have come up as I'm planning the garage electrical:

• Are most people using the wireless remote light? Would just putting some standard light fixtures on an occupancy sensor do the trick?
• What is the most efficient way to add framing prior to drywall going up for mounting these units?
• Does anyone have experience or comments on the MyQ "connectivity" aspects, apps, etc?
• It appears to me that I will have to control each opener with a separate wall control, but can use a single remote.
• It appears I will have to buy an accessory to be able to use Homelink or the MyQ Wifi setup. Any experiences?

Any other advice is appreciated. If you've answered some of these questions already and I've overlooked it, I'd appreciate if you'd link me to your thread.

 

[jacobsed]

I installed the remote lights because they are activated by motion sensors also built into the wall mounted controls.

The MyQ app works fine for opening and closing the doors from my phone. No complaints.

Yes, you can program up to 3 openers with the 3 button remotes they give you.

 

[FDRX-7]

I have three of them. Yes, you will have a separate wall control for each one (let me know if you figure out how the timed close is supposed to work). A single wireless remote will control all three.

My installer didn't put up the remote lights and I haven't gotten around to doing it myself yet.

I haven't bought the MyQ stuff yet, but looking forward to it. I was disappointed to find out that HomeLink will not work for my vehicles because they apparently have an older version of HomeLink (2010 Mercedes). There's a $40 box you have to buy to make it work with some vehicles.

 

[wssix99]

You are wise to plan this stuff now...

• Are most people using the wireless remote light? Would just putting some standard light fixtures on an occupancy sensor do the trick?

Have you seen the threads for new construction where people have gutted the remote lights and tapped them in to relays hooked up to the regular lights? You can use a single set of remote light internals to control the regular lights for the garage (like an extra light switch) and not have to have those remote lights mounted. Particularly if you are going to do a finished garage, this is really nice.
1

• What is the most efficient way to add framing prior to drywall going up for mounting these units?

The answer to this depends on how you are going to frame the boards for the garage door tracks to mount to. The opener doesn't need anything special. It is mounted to the torsion bar and has a bracket that attaches to the boards the garage door is mounted to. You will just need extra framing for the door cable tension sensor. If you will be putting up drywall, you'll want to plan that.

If your openers are going to be mounted high, you may also want to put blocks in the wall so you can put in screw eyes to control the pull cords that hang down from the openers. If you have high ceilings, these can swing around a lot.

• It appears to me that I will have to control each opener with a separate wall control, but can use a single remote.

Correct. The separate control is needed to easily program each unit and I believe its' the only type of control you can use to activate the opener. (I don't think a simple push button will work with them, like a regular opener.)

Are you putting up drywall? If so - when you build your garage, you'll want to put in three separate light switch boxes for the controls and then run network cable from them to where the openers will be mounted. This will make for a nice install and the controls mount flush or on a standard outlet box.

• It appears I will have to buy an accessory to be able to use Homelink or the MyQ Wifi setup. Any experiences?

Correct. I don't use this for two reasons:
- I don't want people to be able to hack my garage.
- With the auto-close feature on the openers, I don't get what the value would be to having the controls on-line.

 

[frank001]

Looking to install 3 of these in my upcoming residential garage thanks to learning about them on this site. A few questions have come up as I'm planning the garage electrical:

• Are most people using the wireless remote light? Would just putting some standard light fixtures on an occupancy sensor do the trick?
• What is the most efficient way to add framing prior to drywall going up for mounting these units?
• Does anyone have experience or comments on the MyQ "connectivity" aspects, apps, etc?
• It appears to me that I will have to control each opener with a separate wall control, but can use a single remote.
• It appears I will have to buy an accessory to be able to use Homelink or the MyQ Wifi setup. Any experiences?

Any other advice is appreciated. If you've answered some of these questions already and I've overlooked it, I'd appreciate if you'd link me to your thread.

I use the wireless remote lights for my three 8500s. They work fine.
One remote will control up to three openers. Each opener requires a separate wall control.
I had to use the adapter in order to use the Homelink function. The older Liftmaster openers in the other garage work fine without any Homelink adapter even with the same cars.






http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=284998&highlight=frank001

 

[Gerald O]

I've got two of them. I didn't install the wireless lights because they are so cheap looking and ugly. I might eventually adapt the electronics in them to a better light fixture.

 

[acamato]

I have two chamberlain (same co as liftmaster) MyQ compatiable (non-wifi) openers. Certain newer cars are not compatible with the latest homelink. I have 2008 Honda Odyssey and that qualified me to get a free ($8 s&h) homelink repeater. I called the 800 number and told them I was having trouble programming the homelink in my car.

For the MyQ feature you need to get a MyQ internet gateway. I have one and I was able to link this to my SmartThings (home automation) hub. I am able to automate the garage dooes, lighting, door locks, etc. Based upon scenarios or control each individual item.

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

 

[FDRX-7]

...that qualified me to get a free ($8 s&h) homelink repeater. I called the 800 number and told them I was having trouble programming the homelink in my car.

That's good to know. I might try that, but included in the instructions that came with mine is a yellow piece of paper explaining that some older Homelink cars won't work instructing me to buy the repeater. So maybe they've quit giving them away and started including the yellow paper. Worth a try though.

 

[k-os]

I have two of them installed. I put the light up in the larger section of my garage, but will probably take it down as it's not very useful (for me) and it tends to stay on quite a long time before it times out (yes I adjusted the timer on it down).

I also have the MyQ Internet Gateway and it's nice, however sometimes I have issue where it doesn't recognize that the door is fully open and then it won't allow me to close it through the app.

 

[TONE]

I have two of them. I have one control that works both doors that is next to the man door going into the house. Then I have separate controls for each overhead door. Those are on wall right next to each door.

I have 3 or 4 car remotes and each one works either door.

Something to consider if it's a new build is to get outlets installed on the wall right behind where the mechanical motor will sit. Beats having to look at long cords.

As for the remote light that came with it, I don't use them. I had one hooked up but personally didn't care for the way it looked.

 

[kerryt1]

Lots of good info.

Something to consider if it's a new build is to get outlets installed on the wall right behind where the mechanical motor will sit. Beats having to look at long cords.

I read the instructions and it appears that you can either plug it in or hardwire it. Has anyone hardwired them?

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Something to consider if it's a new build is to get outlets installed on the wall right behind where the mechanical motor will sit. Beats having to look at long cords.

Good idea. My walls are still open, I need to move my outlets!

I read the instructions and it appears that you can either plug it in or hardwire it. Has anyone hardwired them?

Good question about hardwiring them. Don't forget they need to be on GFCI circuit.

 

[acamato]

That's good to know. I might try that, but included in the instructions that came with mine is a yellow piece of paper explaining that some older Homelink cars won't work instructing me to buy the repeater. So maybe they've quit giving them away and started including the yellow paper. Worth a try though.

I just called on Wednesday for the repeater.

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

 

[MikeF]

The timer setting should be in the manual and I want to say just a few buttons on the wall station. There may be a small switch to turn that on but your photo eyes and what not will have to be working. Which I guess they would be if the door is opening and closing.

I am a fan of these openers, we use em on smaller commercial doors and have only had to swap wires on the auto slide lock once, for some reason the polarity was reversed. And don't over tighten the collar/coupler as it will snap.

 

[MikeF]

The light is also helpful as the operator uses that as a signal when there is an issue. Just like the trolley openers. I think the wall station flashes as well but can't remember.

 

[Theruse]

Liftmaster will send you the repeater free, but you may have to pay a few dollars for shipping. Their customer support is very good. A few weeks ago my door lock mechanism was sluggish and they sent me a replacement unit right away. To clarify the Homelink issue, if you have a 2006 or earlier car you will need the repeater. Later vehicles work directly.

 

[Relax]

My 2007 MDX did not work with my 8500, and they sent me the bridge for just the shipping fee. So it isn't so much determined by the year of the car. Just call them and they will check your car against their "list".

Liftmaster will send you the repeater free, but you may have to pay a few dollars for shipping. Their customer support is very good. A few weeks ago my door lock mechanism was sluggish and they sent me a replacement unit right away. To clarify the Homelink issue, if you have a 2006 or earlier car you will need the repeater. Later vehicles work directly.

 

[Jim Dawson]

i just called and my repeater will be on it's way soon, thanks for the tip.

 

[Brian_WK]

The MyQ was most helpful to me in that in the summer I tend to forget to close the garage doors when its nice out. This gives me a warning if they are open after 11PM I then just go into the app and close them. I frequently use it to open and close the door when doing yard work and riding bike as it is more convenient then getting close enough to hit the key pad.

Brian

 

[dave*99]

I can't think of a good reason to hardwire the power to a garage door opener. Of course the outlet should be placed nearby.

When I rouged in my garage electric, I commented to the electrical inspector that I saw the National Electric Code required a GFCI outlet for the opener. It was a new requirement at the time. He said yes that is true but our town did not adopt that particular piece of the code and it was OK to have a standard circuit for the opener. As always, the AHJ calls the shots.

 

[37ford4dr]

my wireless light stopped working after about 6 years and its 14' high so I have never gotten it down to trouble shoot it

I see no reason to hard wire it, that's the beauty of garage doors they are plug and play


mine has no special framing at all

 

[kerryt1]

If there is no reason other than aesthetics to hardwire the openers...is there any reason not to?

 

[Ironhorse74]

Could someone measure the distance between the shaft and the top of the opener on an 8500? I have to use the 6" offset kit and want to make sure I clear the truss.

Thanks in advance

Brad

 

[livy73]

I just ordered two of these today for $594 with shipping. It was a holiday deal and sounded good to me. I have 9 x 9 insulated doors that are brand new. I'll try to update here or on my build thread when I get them in stalled.

 

[Jlbc212]

Could someone measure the distance between the shaft and the top of the opener on an 8500? I have to use the 6" offset kit and want to make sure I clear the truss.

Thanks in advance

Brad

3" minimum is required from the center of the shaft to the top of the opener on an 8500.

 

[Fredro Starr]

I just ordered two of these today for $594 with shipping. It was a holiday deal and sounded good to me. I have 9 x 9 insulated doors that are brand new. I'll try to update here or on my build thread when I get them in stalled.

Where did you order them?

 

[Ironhorse74]

3" minimum is required from the center of the shaft to the top of the opener on an 8500.

But since I need to use the 6" offset, knowing the distance from center of shaft to top of opener would still be nice.

B

 

[x3whitefox]

Where did you order them?

Back in September, I got two from 365garagedoorparts for $559 shipped. I think the way I found them was by looking at ebay auctions but then went directly to their site to purchase. Shipping appears to be a fixed $4.50 ea. regardless of where you are. They are not too far from me. Shipped right away.

 

[NYBODYMAN]

I have two of these installed. Great opener. I was given the MyQ for free by the installer but I haven't connected them yet. Are they worth the trouble?

 

[icenfire01]

Have you seen the threads for new construction where people have gutted the remote lights and tapped them in to relays hooked up to the regular lights? You can use a single set of remote light internals to control the regular lights for the garage (like an extra light switch) and not have to have those remote lights mounted. Particularly if you are going to do a finished garage, this is really nice.

Have a link to this thread?

 

[dave*99]

If there is no reason other than aesthetics to hardwire the openers...is there any reason not to?

It's easier to service if you can unplug it locally while you are on the ladder.

 

[wssix99]

Have a link to this thread?

Here are some good ones:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=288164&highlight=liftmaster&page=2

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=171014&highlight=contactor&showall=1


The later thread helped me a ton with my system. I have four double pole contractors all hooked up together. I have three openers, each with a contactor, and then a fourth contactor is activated by my wall switches. If any one of the four are on, my lights and my HRV both come on. (With this setup, I also need indicator lights to point out which switches are energizing the circuits.)

^ My City requires passive ventilation in garages and I was able to get a waiver by having timed/active ventilation hooked up to the light timers on the garage door opener lights.

 

[kerryt1]

Another question...does anyone know of common overhead door brands / models that are NOT compatible with these openers for some reason?

 

[muncie21]

My remote light recently decided to stay on more often than not. I installed a motion sensor light in the socket as I didn't like walking through the garage without lights.

 

[wssix99]

Another question...does anyone know of common overhead door brands / models that are NOT compatible with these openers for some reason?

The instructions give spec's on the types and placement of the torsion spring shaft you need for the opener. Beyond that, nothing is dependent on the door.

 

[muncie21]

The door design must use an external spring torsion bar. My door had an internal spring. Because the spring cannot be changed on the internal design, I needed a complete new torsion bar. The installer then added the appropriate size spring for the weight of the door.

Also if your door design is the type that has the spring on each side of the door to help lift it, that won't work either. The 8500 must mount to the torsion shaft to operate.

 

[pattenp]

But since I need to use the 6" offset, knowing the distance from center of shaft to top of opener would still be nice.

B

About 2.75".

 

[Jim Dawson]

I bought my 8500 from these guys for $289 with free shipping:
http://www.weshipgaragedoorparts.com/liftmaster-8500-jackshaft-garage-door-opener.php

 

[Fredro Starr]

Back in September, I got two from 365garagedoorparts for $559 shipped. I think the way I found them was by looking at ebay auctions but then went directly to their site to purchase. Shipping appears to be a fixed $4.50 ea. regardless of where you are. They are not too far from me. Shipped right away.

Thanks, I bought three yesterday for $825. Shipping is now $9.00 a piece (It may be because I also bought the battery backups)

 

[jacobsed]

I called on Friday and mine is on the way also. Had to pay $8 for their shipping and processing fee.

i just called and my repeater will be on it's way soon, thanks for the tip.