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Lifts in Tight Spaces

Bull

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Do any of you guys have have pics of lifts, either four or two post, that are in bays that you consider to be "tight"? In other words, bays in which you have very little room to the side of the lift or on one or other end of it?

I'm wondering how such setups affect your ability effectively to use the lift for maintaining and repairing vehicles.

I have plenty of ceiling height in one bay (12' I think) but not much in the way of length or width.
 
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samert111

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Rockford, Mi
My Forward 9K lift. Building is 28' x 48' and the RV takes up 1/2 that. I can still pull axles on a 1 ton truck without any problems the way it's setup.
 

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eastbaysubaru

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Good thread as I will be in a similar situation when the time comes to install a lift. I plan on putting it in the third bay of a three car garage which means it will be relatively tight up against the one wall, similar to the first pic posted by samert111. Thankfully I will have a bit more room between the close wall and the post (maybe an additional 10-12").

-Brian
 

cdsvt

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The only complaint I have is making it hard to get around the vehicle if it is too close to something. One of my anchor positions for my maxjax is right up against a shelf and when a car is on the lift I either need to go around the long way or under the car. Not a show stopper, but kind of a hassle. My other lift has several feet on both sides so I can get around it, and I prefer that setup.
 

Gerald O

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You should not install a 2 post lift closer to the edge of the slab than specified by the manufacturer. Putting one post up against the wall is likely too close if you have a floating slab.
 

Matt M PA

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My 4 post is almost against one wall in my garage. For pulling wheels, etc...it's a PITA. If I'm doing jobs that allow it to be raised enough to duck under...it's no problem.

I was planning to shift it over a foot or more so my fat behind can squeeze between the columns and the wall...but I've yet to do it. I finally got a midrise to go in the middle bay for pulling wheels, etc.

When I set up the 4 post, I wanted it as close to the wall as possible..to maximize space. And...it worked great until I wanted to pull wheels. At 3-4' high...you either have to crawl under to get at the one side...or step up and over the ramp. It can be done...but it's a hassle.
 

BMW Rider

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Mine just fits in the single bay addition on my garage. Its not really a working lift, just for parking.

IMGP0743-2.jpg
 

tininjun67

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selma, tx
I have enough room between the wall and the lift to just walk through. I was concerned about pulling axles also. My biggest fear is having enough room to haul **** if something goes wrong and the car falls. Once I enclose the rv port next to this stall, the wall will come down
 

Jack Olsen

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Mine couldn't be tighter.

skewed.jpg


But I use it all the time.

opendoor.jpg


WorkingA-H.jpg


I think the biggest issue in close quarters would be the apparatus of the lift itself.
 

artrem

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I think this qualifies as a "tight" MaxJax install. My garage is a converted 1-car carport and is only 12x24 feet. I had the MaxJax posts installed near the walls as shown in the photo. I should mention that the left outside wall is framed with 2x6's and the interior wall is framed with 2x4's but on the former exterior brick wall of the house, so both posts are more than 6-inches from the edges. I've had this lift for about a year and have done dozens of lifts with absolutely no problems with the columns.

This is clearly not optimal, but it's the only way I could fit a 2-post lift in that space. I can get a full lift with the MaxJax and while it works great for any work under the car, there is no room behind the posts which means it's is not easy to get around the car when it's up on the lift. With this arrangement, some jobs, such as changing out an axle, might be problematic.

Would I do it again? Yeah probably, because I really enjoy the luxury of having my own lift and I prefer unfettered access to the underside of the car. I'm so jealous of all you guys with big spacious garages. I'm hoping someday to get a much larger workspace after retirement, but this tiny space will have to do for now.

Cayman%20on%20MaxJax%204.jpg
 

Corsair4360

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Logan, Utah
I am very familiar with a two post lift in a tight room. We had plenty of height but no where near enough space to the sides (12 feet wide). Can it work, sure. Is it great to work around, no. Is it safe if you have to bail, to the ends yes, not to the sides.

Example: car is on the lift and up to change tires, e.g. up about 30 inches. Got the tires off one end, how do you get them to the other end of the vehicle. We raised the vehicle or walked around through the shop man doors and back into the room with the lift rolling the tires in trips both ways. If the vehicle is wide like a dually, then space is really tight. My experience is that at least 2 feet on each side of the lift posts is needed, would be much better with 3 feet.

I know that some things are just as they are and we have to accept them as is.
 

zkling

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Bull,
If you are working in the same size of space as say a single stall garage, I think a mid rise twin pad style lift would be the best. As mentioned above the lift posts of a 2 post can really be inconvenient in a cramped space, especially a narrow space. In my experience it really isn't an issue of inconvient to work on the vehicle, but more so the lift posts get in the way. Occasionally I have access to a 2 post that is in a single stall garage and I've actually walked into the dang posts myself. Unless you really need the access of a 2 post, I'd go with a mid rise for general brake, suspension, oil, misc, much more convenient. Just my 2¢ :beer:


Mine couldn't be tighter.

But I use it all the time.

I think the biggest issue in close quarters would be the apparatus of the lift itself.

Love it Jack. :drool: Do you ever put other cars on your lift besides the Porsche? I remember it doesn't have the full capacity of an actually car lift, but just wondered if you ever put your truck or the like on it. :beer:
 
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Gerald O

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I would think the edge of the slab would be the strongest part of the slab. there should be a peimeter beam. Right?
For slab-on-grade foundation, yes, the footing is incorporated into the edge of the slab and the walls are erected on top. In that case even if you anchor the post next to the wall there is still 4 inches or more to the edge of the slab.

However, for a floating slab where there is a separate foundation stem wall, the slab is poured right up to the foundation wall and usually separated by a 1/2" expansion joint. There is usually no extra thickening or reinforcement there. So anchoring a lift post near the wall in this case could put the outer anchor bolts within an inch or so of the edge of the slab. Too close!
 

Ray916MN

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Orono, MN
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Although the side to side space is a bit tight, I haven't really been bothered by it. The lack of space at the front and rear ends of the lift are the bigger bother. They make getting around a vehicle much more cumbersome. Although the lift raises high enough to easily stand underneath it with the Honda (~81") the problem is you typically work on a car at a height at or below head height so you can reach things and have enough leverage to remove things. It is particularly a pain for doing things like wheels, brakes and suspension where the vehicle is typically lifted to chest height. To get from one side of the lift to the other is a bit more complicated. I get tired of ducking to get from one side of the lift to the other.

If you look carefully at the left rear post of the lift above the pump you can see a blue piece of painter's tape which marks how high the truck can go on the lift without hitting the ceiling lights. Probably something like 5'10" under the lift.
 

TAMPAGT07

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Lifts in Tight Spaces

I think that's a Garth Brooks song:

'Cause I've got lifts in tight places
where the walls to close to change bearing races and I'll be okay
I'm real close to the walls braces, you know that this garage is my oasis
Oh, I've got flifts in tight places :drink:
 

Sureshot

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1213131416a_zpsfhznldez.jpg


Although the side to side space is a bit tight, I haven't really been bothered by it. The lack of space at the front and rear ends of the lift are the bigger bother. They make getting around a vehicle much more cumbersome. Although the lift raises high enough to easily stand underneath it with the Honda (~81") the problem is you typically work on a car at a height at or below head height so you can reach things and have enough leverage to remove things. It is particularly a pain for doing things like wheels, brakes and suspension where the vehicle is typically lifted to chest height. To get from one side of the lift to the other is a bit more complicated. I get tired of ducking to get from one side of the lift to the other.

If you look carefully at the left rear post of the lift above the pump you can see a blue piece of painter's tape which marks how high the truck can go on the lift without hitting the ceiling lights. Probably something like 5'10" under the lift.

Do you use the lift to put the bikes on the top shelf?
 

JCByrd24

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Jul 21, 2005
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Bath, ME
My garage is 26' wide and 28' deep, so I chose a full rise scissor lift so as to not have to deal with the posts/lift arms on a 2 post lift. I park with the front wheels up on the platforms every night without problems and don't have to worry about the doors hitting posts. The lift platforms male very nice infinitely adjustable work tables for non-auto related projects. The scissor was also a good choose for me because my slab is questionable and while the platforms are bolted to the slab, the bolts are just to keep the works from tipping due to external forces (very unlikely), all the weight just basically sits on the slab.
 
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Jack Olsen

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I know. :)

On the one hand, it's a very crowded space. But the thing that makes up for that is how easy it is to get the car up in the air. It's always ready to lift. There's only one way to park, and that means the platform is in position. No arms to swing, or blocks to fit, or anything. So yesterday when I had to fix a ground wire for the third brake light, I had the car up in the air before I even thought about kneeling down to unscrew the brake light assembly. I mean, why kneel down?

If I had a conventional lift, I don't think I'd use it a tenth as much. If you have to do something to get the car up in the air that is more of an annoyance than kneeling down to undo two screws, then you're just going to do the work on your knees. Which is fine. But if you don't have to...

Of course, the flipside is I can't stand under my lift and it's even less useful for my BMW, Jeep, or my wife's car. With them, I tend to just lift one end of the vehicle.
 

HAP

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I read something yesterday for building designs and space allocation that a bay with a car lift should be 360 sq ft.
 

LX-Markham

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Markham, Ont.
It's a vaulted ceiling, so there's only room in the very middle for the car to go up on the lift. And we can still park both of our cars underneath without any posts in the way.
Plus all my shop equipment has room on sides of the lift, so my entire car hobby just lifts out of the way at the push of a button.
 
OP
B

Bull

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It's a vaulted ceiling, so there's only room in the very middle for the car to go up on the lift. And we can still park both of our cars underneath without any posts in the way.
Plus all my shop equipment has room on sides of the lift, so my entire car hobby just lifts out of the way at the push of a button.

Do you have any pics of the garage as it is setup now, with the equipment and all in place?
 

ACR

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LX-Markham... how was Babco's sales/service? I'm in the GTA and planning on ordering an HD9-XW in the next year from them. Was the sale and installation pretty turnkey i.e. order and they deliver and install?
 

justanengineer

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JMHO, but I think some folks here are too obsessed with having a lift, especially those who dont own much for tools otherwise. Not only on this thread but also many others, some of the pics of the lift installs make me seriously cringe. Personally, I wouldnt install any sort of a lift unless I had at least 4-6 ft of clearance on all sides (left, right, front, AND rear) of the lift itself. You never really know when you will need to evacuate quickly and even that 4'-6' to walls, a bench, or a door will often put you in the line of fire and you definitely dont want to be squeezing through or climbing over anything to get out.
 

Killer95Stang

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JMHO, but I think some folks here are too obsessed with having a lift, especially those who dont own much for tools otherwise. Not only on this thread but also many others, some of the pics of the lift installs make me seriously cringe. Personally, I wouldnt install any sort of a lift unless I had at least 4-6 ft of clearance on all sides (left, right, front, AND rear) of the lift itself. You never really know when you will need to evacuate quickly and even that 4'-6' to walls, a bench, or a door will often put you in the line of fire and you definitely dont want to be squeezing through or climbing over anything to get out.

When I worked as a mechanical engineer designing heat treating furnaces and other large equipment, I felt a lot like you about safety. Once I decided I didn't want to sit in an office anymore and moved on to being a Police Officer in South Central LA, I lost all my normal engineering type fears. :dunno:
 

e-tek

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This is a very interesting thread - good question Bull.

I have mentioned this issue in a couple threads as I (somewhat) wish I had purchased a Standard Width (HD-S) lift instead of the Extended Width (HD-XTW). Of course when I ordered it I went as big as I could (I didn't want to "go home" - LOL!) so ordered the extra tall and wide options. Of course I rarely set the ramps on wide now but the posts are way out there - and sometimes in the way....

So, I suggest people measure VERY carefully - and try to figure working room, walk around room and the largest - and most likely - vehicles to be on it.
 

fredybender

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How to fit 4 cars, 2 motorcycles (1 not shown), one motrcycle lift (not shown) in a 20x24 garage with limited wall height city code ... ;)




 
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Jack Olsen

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opendoor.jpg


Yep, sooner of later I'd lower the car with the door open.

I'd like to say I planned it, but... by pure chance, you have to close the door in order to get to the up/down switch (you can see the switch through the window there), so I don't think it'd be possible to lower it that way.
 
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